master_d
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Figured you did since your the one who repaired my striker's cart! Heh.. more for informational purposes in case anyone else is curious about it.
The bad battery thread
- Thread starter channelmaniac
- Start date
n00b
Figured you did since your the one who repaired my striker's cart! Heh.. more for informational purposes in case anyone else is curious about it.
master_d
n00b
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I received the super caps I ordered yesterday and installed one in my 4-slot board and let it charge for about 1.5 hours yesterday which should be more than enough time. I turned the machine back on today (about 21 hours later) and the settings and hi-scores were still saved in backup RAM. I will do more tests leaving the machine off for a longer period of time to see if the cap is able to retain settings... probably try 2 days, 5 days and then a whole week.
rsa2000
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Picked up my first Neo last week a 2 slot MVS minus monitor and power supply. Got an ATX in there for now and after cleaning it up it now works great (but blind since i am waiting on a video encoder). The battery looks like it just started to leak on the negative side since there is some green powder on the solder joint. Sorry taken with phone hard to see but its there. I took a coin holder out of a junk pc and a cr2032 but that pic is so blurry I wont even post it. Lucky I caught this in the beginning stages!
What would be good for oxidation? I have what looks like green color corrosion on a couple of components on an MV-1 board I just received near the battery. I'm planning on removing the battery and hopefully be able to get this board fixed. Board still works, so it hasn't been given a chance to do its damage too thoroughly yet. I'm hoping to throw this board into my cab and purchase one of NTM's memory card boards so I can make use of the save functionality.
Mendel
Vanessa's Drinking Buddy
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Halp
This is the board I´m working on:
The lower board
Battery removed
My weapons of choice
After giving up for the day there´s still a lot of black stuff left. I removed the 470 resistor while I was at it...
What should my next step be?
For now, the board still works.
This is the board I´m working on:
The lower board
Battery removed
My weapons of choice
After giving up for the day there´s still a lot of black stuff left. I removed the 470 resistor while I was at it...
What should my next step be?
For now, the board still works.
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xsq
Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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wow mendel, that looks pretty bad... but you can definitely safe the board. What did the battery read? Did it say NiCD? If so that would indicate that the leakage is not acidic, but basic. So to neutralize the leakage you should not have used bicarbonate sodium which is basic as well, but something acidic like vinegar. (If the battery read something different, research online what kind of leakage you're dealing with.)
The first thing I would do from where you're at is neutralize that bicarbonate stuff (and perhaps the leakage) with vinegar. Then remove the vinegar by rinsing with lots and lots of water (you can put the board in your sink to do this. Tab water is fine most of the time, if you have distilled water is even safer) and dry the board. If you wet other parts of the board, be sure to get the water out/off of there too (especially chips can trap a lot of water under them, use compressed air to blow it out). Hand-dry with a clean and soft cotton cloth. Easiest way to make sure the board is really really dry is heating your oven to ca. 70°C, then turn it off (!) and put the PCB inside over night.
After that the leakage should be gone. But it will have damaged the coating of the PCB, so putting some protective solution on there is a good idea (contact cleaner works if you do not plan to have the board stored in a moist environment).
I hope that helps and you get rid of the leakage. I've seen boards where the battery fluid had crawled between the different layers of the PCB and was continuing to eat it away... but that doesn't seem to be the case with yours. Even in the worst scenarios a thorough cleaning will stop or at least slow the process immensely (so far it will take another 5-10 years before the first traces get harmed), so you should do it in any case. I'd slap a battery holder on there when you're done. If you're lucky the contacts to the battery will still work and since you removed the 470ohm resistor already that will restore full functionality of your board (check Xian Xi's battery mod tutorials).
Good luck! If you run into more trouble and need that MV1FS you sold me back, let me know and we'll work something out.
The first thing I would do from where you're at is neutralize that bicarbonate stuff (and perhaps the leakage) with vinegar. Then remove the vinegar by rinsing with lots and lots of water (you can put the board in your sink to do this. Tab water is fine most of the time, if you have distilled water is even safer) and dry the board. If you wet other parts of the board, be sure to get the water out/off of there too (especially chips can trap a lot of water under them, use compressed air to blow it out). Hand-dry with a clean and soft cotton cloth. Easiest way to make sure the board is really really dry is heating your oven to ca. 70°C, then turn it off (!) and put the PCB inside over night.
After that the leakage should be gone. But it will have damaged the coating of the PCB, so putting some protective solution on there is a good idea (contact cleaner works if you do not plan to have the board stored in a moist environment).
I hope that helps and you get rid of the leakage. I've seen boards where the battery fluid had crawled between the different layers of the PCB and was continuing to eat it away... but that doesn't seem to be the case with yours. Even in the worst scenarios a thorough cleaning will stop or at least slow the process immensely (so far it will take another 5-10 years before the first traces get harmed), so you should do it in any case. I'd slap a battery holder on there when you're done. If you're lucky the contacts to the battery will still work and since you removed the 470ohm resistor already that will restore full functionality of your board (check Xian Xi's battery mod tutorials).
Good luck! If you run into more trouble and need that MV1FS you sold me back, let me know and we'll work something out.
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Mendel
Vanessa's Drinking Buddy
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hmm... can´t seem to find the battery anymore. I thought for sure the battery leakage would have been acidic.
Now then, I guess anything I do would have 50-50 chance of making it better or making it worse. I feel inclined to do nothing and buy a new board when this one stops working. (I´ll have the high scores on a memory card.)
oh, I´ll try adding a battery holder and a battery though for settings saving.
Now then, I guess anything I do would have 50-50 chance of making it better or making it worse. I feel inclined to do nothing and buy a new board when this one stops working. (I´ll have the high scores on a memory card.)
oh, I´ll try adding a battery holder and a battery though for settings saving.
xsq
Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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Well, if you haven't already you should definitely rinse the board with a lot of water. I highly doubt that using vinegar could make anything worse though, especially not if you rinse well. And consider putting some protection on the area that has been harmed by the battery leak... contact cleaner will also make it look more shiny
Also, I'm pretty sure that your old battery will have been NiCD:
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Mendel
Vanessa's Drinking Buddy
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Okay. I guess it´s worth a shot then. I have to open the board anyways to install battery and change bios chip soon...
Should be able to do it during the next week. Will try at the very least. Contact cleaner would be something that comes in a spray bottle, right?
Will have to ask some Finnish people about where to get a bottle of that stuff. Vinegar should be easy to find.
edit: found this thing: http://www.biltema.fi/ProductImages/36/large/36-457_l.jpg
Should be able to do it during the next week. Will try at the very least. Contact cleaner would be something that comes in a spray bottle, right?
Will have to ask some Finnish people about where to get a bottle of that stuff. Vinegar should be easy to find.
edit: found this thing: http://www.biltema.fi/ProductImages/36/large/36-457_l.jpg
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xsq
Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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most of the time contact cleaner comes in a spray bottle*, there are other ways/solutions to protect the PCBs, contact cleaner is just something a lot of people have around for various purposes... do some internet research (google) on what you can put on the board after cleaning. It's not that important though, if you clean it it'll be pretty much alright on it's own.
The order is correct, a (clean and soft) toothbrush is fine. You won't need to rub it in too much, don't take off more of the PCB if possible.
(*can't tell from the picture if that's the right product, look at the contents/usual applications. Contact cleaner is used to clean and protect plugs, switches, regulators etc., will remove corrosion and also lubrify. In Germany, "Kontakt 60 Plus" is very popular)
The order is correct, a (clean and soft) toothbrush is fine. You won't need to rub it in too much, don't take off more of the PCB if possible.
(*can't tell from the picture if that's the right product, look at the contents/usual applications. Contact cleaner is used to clean and protect plugs, switches, regulators etc., will remove corrosion and also lubrify. In Germany, "Kontakt 60 Plus" is very popular)
I'm attempting to replace the battery on my 4-slot with a battery holder. A standard CR2023 battery holder doesn't fit, as the pins are 20mm apart and the holes are about 24.5mm apart. Can anyone point me to a battery holder for sale that fits? Thanks!
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2450 Battery: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CR2450/P340-ND/447508
2450 Battery Holder: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1025/1025K-ND/49949
2450 Battery Holder: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1025/1025K-ND/49949
Thanks, but even though that's a 24.5mm battery, the pin spacing on the holder is still 20mm.
I can't be the first guy to encounter this problem. There are tons and tons of four-slots out there. Nobody else seems to have a problem finding a battery holder that fits.
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Just solder some extensions on to the legs andgo into the openings of the pcb... like if you purchase resistors or other components they give you plenty of leg length that you usually have to cut down,use that or any conductive pins similar in size.I've one it for 4 slot and MV1C
BB
BB
Mendel
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How long should it take for 4 slot to clear its backup ram on its own if it has no battery?
I´m trying to figure out a way to test if my new battery holder and battery works but I dont have multimeter. And if this works then I wont be needing one either
I´m trying to figure out a way to test if my new battery holder and battery works but I dont have multimeter. And if this works then I wont be needing one either
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How long should it take for 4 slot to clear its backup ram on its own if it has no battery?
I´m trying to figure out a way to test if my new battery holder and battery works but I dont have multimeter. And if this works then I wont be needing one either
Set the date and time then power off the board and wait about 30 minutes and check if the date and time are correct. Usually if the battery is completely dead once you power off it erases the date and time.
xsq
Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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Okay, thanks. I´m sure now my new battery works
that's great news buddy! How did the cleanup go?
Mendel
Vanessa's Drinking Buddy
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Well I just rubbed it with some water as I didnt get to go buying any vinegar yet. Someone told me I might try using some clear nail polish or something on the corroded parts. I´m just lazy with this shit but I should still get to finish it by next week
Guys, just a quick question - is the rechargeable lithium coin-type battery, as found on the MV-1FZ for instance prone to leakage? The battery in question is a Toshiba VG2430 rechargeable 3V lithium coin style battery.
I have examined my motherboard and not found any traces of leakage / visible concerns, although I assume that if at all there might be a leak under the battery which would not be visible without first removing the battery.
I have actually ordered the above battery with a view to replace the current one, but if at all possible I would rather avoid unneccesary work - 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' Then again I don't want to wake up some day in the future and find acid all over by board.
So what is the risk of leakage from a VG2430 rechargeable 3V lithium coin style battery?
I have examined my motherboard and not found any traces of leakage / visible concerns, although I assume that if at all there might be a leak under the battery which would not be visible without first removing the battery.
I have actually ordered the above battery with a view to replace the current one, but if at all possible I would rather avoid unneccesary work - 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' Then again I don't want to wake up some day in the future and find acid all over by board.
So what is the risk of leakage from a VG2430 rechargeable 3V lithium coin style battery?
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Lithium batteries don't leak, when they short circuit they get extremely hot. Its very unlikely that this would occur so you'll just be left with a dead battery. I wasn't aware the 1FZ came with a lithium coin cell battery, sounds a bit odd to me.
Thanks for this, however there seem to be conflicting opinions - I have started reading this thread and some people said that the lithiums do leak and from the side that you cannot see...
WIth regard to the battery type on the MV-1FZ board I was rather surprised myself when I first saw it - thought someone had already done a coin battery type mod, however a bit of internet research showed that these were indeed the original batteries for these boards:
I have also come across pictures of another type of board where the coin style rechargable lithium battery is mounted vertically.
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