The bad battery thread

Hairy Otter

Hairy Otter

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Whippy said:
Is the ML2032 the proper rechargeable battery to use in a 1c with the charging circuitry still in place?
Click to expand...
Alas, the MV-1c is the only board that is missing from my collection. So i don't know what battery is native to this board.

A quick google learned me, the battery chemistry of both are very different.
The LiR is a 3.6v battery This battery is rechargeable, however a protective circuit is absolutely necessary due to the very high energy density of this type of cell. Since the mv-1c is a very simplistic board I don't think they over designed the loading circuit.
The ML is a 3v battery with the same physical dimensions but with less stringent requirements in terms of loading.
So maybe an other member can shed some light on the type of battery used on an MV-1c or even measure the loading voltage of it.
But in my experience a rechargeable battery is not the best way to go in HUO machine, It takes to long to fully charge them in a save way and the charge doesn't hold that long. As I said before, those machines where build to have more running time then rest. And when they where stored between two locations, no one minded if the memory got lost, each location needed new bookkeeping and preferred there own settings.
 
boogieman

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I am getting an MV-1B and am debating replacing the battery with a rechargeable or coin cell with battery mod. Would this LINK be a suitable replacement? I know it's 3.7V but am curious if that would cause issue. I've used this very battery pack on a Dreamcast, which too has a 3v rechargeable battery. It's 1000mah so it will last a long time. My DC charges overnight and I've turned it on after 6 months of not playing after a move and it still held the system clock, so for DC at least they are a great option. Anyway, I'm just curious if anyone has experimented with 3.7V LI PO batteries as they are pretty widely used in other electronics now.
 
NexusX

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boogieman said:
I am getting an MV-1B and am debating replacing the battery with a rechargeable or coin cell with battery mod.
Click to expand...

The 1B already has a soldered coin cell in it. So the chances are slim it is going to explode and damage your board. There are a few battery mod kits for it though.
Here is one by Neo Jamma. Lets you mount it vertical or horizontal.

https://imgur.com/a/4c3AkpA
 
boogieman

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NexusX said:
The 1B already has a soldered coin cell in it. So the chances are slim it is going to explode and damage your board. There are a few battery mod kits for it though.
Here is one by Neo Jamma. Lets you mount it vertical or horizontal.

https://imgur.com/a/4c3AkpA
Click to expand...

Oh, nice, I've been poking around on Neo Jamma but somehow missed that, It will be nice to deal with the spacing issue without having to rig something up. I'll probably go this route but still curious about the 3.7V vs. 3V.
 
NexusX

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Just reminding everyone to check those old original batteries if they are still on any of your boards.
 
R

ropbasuel

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Hi all,

I have 2 MVS MV1A boards, both still with the original battery. To prevent battery leakage I am thinking on changing the battery to other rechargeable one, since I've read some people that changed to one common CR2032 (removing the charging circuit) and that lead to these batteries to drain out in a couple of days (http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?266704-MV1-A-amp-MV1-FZ-battery-mod).

So here I ask you one question:

Which is better for this replacement, ML2032 or LIR2032? I've read opinions of people saying that ML2032 is better and others saying LIR2032 is the one for this board.

Can someone help me out?

Thanks
 
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TyMiles2012

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ropbasuel said:
Hi all,

I have 2 MVS MV1A boards, both still with the original battery. To prevent battery leakage I am thinking on changing the battery to other rechargeable one, since I've read some people that changed to one common CR2032 (removing the charging circuit) and that lead to these batteries to drain out in a couple of days (http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?266704-MV1-A-amp-MV1-FZ-battery-mod).

So here I ask you one question:

Which is better for this replacement, ML2032 or LIR2032? I've read opinions of people saying that ML2032 is better and others saying LIR2032 is the one for this board.

Can someone help me out?

Thanks
Click to expand...

So the fact that CR2032's lasting only a few days isn't an issue on my part... That's a huge shame since I've done that mod already so unless there's a way to restore the charging circuit without the original components, I'm out of luck then.
 
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ropbasuel

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TyMiles2012 said:
So the fact that CR2032's lasting only a few days isn't an issue on my part... That's a huge shame since I've done that mod already so unless there's a way to restore the charging circuit without the original components, I'm out of luck then.
Click to expand...

No, unfortunately (or not), this is an issue I have found a lot when searching for this subject.
I have found here in the forum, as well as on some reddit posts, specially on the MV1A board that this happens very often. The battery mod keeps draining the new battery very fast (don't know why).

That's why I am thinking on instead of removing the charging circuit, to just replace the battery with one rechargeable one (with a socket). I didn't do this replacing mod yet, didn't had much time for that, but I am still with this question on which battery is the most recommended to replace, ML2032 or LIR2032 ?
 
Jonap

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MobiusStripTech said:
A lot of people opt to remove the charging circuit and switch to a standard CR2032 and a basic coin cell socket. I opted for an SMD coin cell socket and to still use the LR2032 rechargeable battery personally.
Click to expand...

Seems good option i never see it.
Can you show with pictures and put links for buy the socket and battery? or maybe references?

Thanks!
 
grendelrt

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Any idea how many milliamps the charging circuits puts out to the battery when charging on a MVS board?
 
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MoriyaMinakata

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I've replaced my battery years ago with a cordless phone battery, attached with a wire instead of having it sit directly on the board.
In the event the battery leaks, it wouldn't damage it.
 
Jonap

Jonap

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Lir2032 is bad for mvs 1 slot boards? is 3,6v when the stock battery are 3v, i think the perfect fit for this boards are ML2032, but using LIR2032 can cause issues? more cheap and easy to find.
 
TheJiggler

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Jonap said:
Lir2032 is bad for mvs 1 slot boards? is 3,6v when the stock battery are 3v, i think the perfect fit for this boards are ML2032, but using LIR2032 can cause issues? more cheap and easy to find.
Click to expand...

I wonder what the range of voltage the backup ram allows for? an extra 600mv doesn't seem like much, why don't you try it out and let us know? OR disable the recharge circuit and use a non-rechargeable 3V coin cell like a CR2032?
 
K-2

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Just put an ML2032 in my 2 slot. So far so good.
 
Xian Xi

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lachlan said:
I wonder what the range of voltage the backup ram allows for? an extra 600mv doesn't seem like much, why don't you try it out and let us know? OR disable the recharge circuit and use a non-rechargeable 3V coin cell like a CR2032?
Click to expand...

Usually 5.5v max but for data retention it usually requires a minimum of 2.0v, I’ve seen some at 1.8v.
 
TheJiggler

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I just got this MV1 in from Japan in a lot as not working for $10, not sure why I even bothered...

PXL-20210225-052401542.jpg
 
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crmb

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I ordered a Panasonic 1.5F supercap (EECS5R5H155) for one of my boards (cost less than $5). I saw this idea mentioned a few times.
It doesn't seems to be a very popular method, but i would like to try this alternative to the NiCd battery, without having to remove the charge resistor.
(i don't now how "safe" they are though (eg. Naomi leaking supercap))

I am not sure how long they can hold the backup ram. I read about 3-4month but i don't know if it was for a 1.5F
I tried to found some calculators online but i am not sure. If i understand correctly the backup ram can work as long it is between 3.6v and 2.0v

How many months the original Saft 50mAh can hold by the way ?

edit : put the supercap (has the same pins spacing), working so far.
 
Last edited:
NexusX

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Thought I would post a reminder up in this thread. It's midway through 2022 now. Check all your boards and snip off all of those mini bombs waiting to explode. Or maybe they have exploded and are currently eating their way through your PCBs now.
 
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kissedin

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I just put a LIR2032 on my MV1A board. Should I replace it with a ML2032?

I've read that it should be ok. But I've also read that it is not. So a good answer from someone with true knowledge would be deeply appreciated.
 
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kissedin

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Xian Xi said:
Usually 5.5v max but for data retention it usually requires a minimum of 2.0v, I’ve seen some at 1.8v.
Click to expand...
So far so good. I measured my LIR2032 to 3.9v when i put it in. Don't know what the charge current or voltage is of MV1a and I use my board to seldom to see what voltage the battery will reach when fully charged.

But board is working fine. Btw ML2032 is 3.0 volts lithium so that is the battery to get for these boards.
 
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kissedin

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I just want to report that LIR2032 has been working great on a MV1A. Board runs fine, back up data is there. I play maybe once a month on it, and on those rare occasions also let it on for a couple of hours so the battery may charge.
 
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jukeboxhero10

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Sorry to necro this but just to confirm I read this right. If I don't want to cut the 470 resistor then I can just use a coincell holder and a ml2032?
 
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