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Thread: The Neo Geo's Compatibility with Your TV

  1. #276
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    I compared yesterday my Omega's outputs on my BVM 1416p monitor. Via component image is way better. It is much sharper with deeper and more vivid colours.
    On RGB colours are more washed out and it's like there is a bluriness on screen. Contrast levels are lower than component.
    RGB is supposed to be better. What is going on?

    I have done RGB bypass mod on my AES and via RGB on the very same monitor image is better than any of Omega's outputs.
    Is there something I can do to fix my Omega's RGB?
    Last edited by Green Beret; 05-14-2014 at 02:20 PM.

  2. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Beret View Post
    I compared yesterday my Omega's outputs on my BVM 1416p monitor. Via component image is way better. It is much sharper with deeper and more vivid colours.
    On RGB colours are more washed out and it's like there is a bluriness on screen. Contrast levels are lower than component.
    RGB is supposed to be better. What is going on?

    I have done RGB bypass mod on my AES and via RGB on the very same monitor image is better than any of Omega's outputs.
    Is there something I can do to fix my Omega's RGB?
    Sounds like a composite picture more than RGB. Have you double checked the settings on your setup? It's also possible that you need to add a sync stripper to your rgb cable.

  3. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadowkn55 View Post
    Sounds like a composite picture more than RGB. Have you double checked the settings on your setup? It's also possible that you need to add a sync stripper to your rgb cable.
    What is a sync stripper and how do I add it?
    My set up is set to RGB but image quality is like svideo.

  4. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Beret View Post
    What is a sync stripper and how do I add it?
    My set up is set to RGB but image quality is like svideo.
    The sync stripper is an LM1881. It's small enough to fit inside the rgb cable hood. You'll need to do some soldering though.

  5. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadowkn55 View Post
    The sync stripper is an LM1881. It's small enough to fit inside the rgb cable hood. You'll need to do some soldering though.
    Where do they sell the LM1881 chip? Is it common you can find everywhere?
    Thanks a lot

  6. #281
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    It's a fairly common part. Most online retailers and ebay have it.

  7. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikejmoffitt View Post
    Basically, as a new RGB line is being captured, the previous one is being drawn twice.
    Here is a video of it working:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEA6anvHBEA
    Mike - very impressive! Is a generic upscaler for 240p sources in the works?

  8. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by airs View Post
    Mike - very impressive! Is a generic upscaler for 240p sources in the works?
    Probably not. He's tapping into the digital rgb bus which is not exposed on most 240p systems.

  9. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadowkn55 View Post
    Probably not. He's tapping into the digital rgb bus which is not exposed on most 240p systems.
    The primary difference here is that I am using the CPU clock (which is 2x the pixel clock importantly) and the digital RGB data. Getting the analogue RGB into a digital format is not too intimidating as at the very least there exist many ICs for doing analogue to digital. The more challenging part to get just right would be determining timings based solely on the /CSYNC that is available and nothing else. A phase-locked loop (PLL) would let the doubled hsync be generated, and then it's a matter of determining an appropriate new pixel clock.

    Many advantages of this design become clear, mostly related to simplifying the timing. Doing it all digitally means that the edge of every pixel is perfect too, there are no fuzzy half-pixel transition captures like many cheaper scaling units will have, and no need to try to guess the original pixel clock for sampling.

    But, a short answer is that yes, a generic upscaler is in the works. It is more for the sake of experimentation and learning though as I don't think I'm going to create one better than the classic X-RGB3, and even if I was to do that I don't think it would be extremely cost effective nor feature filled. We must also consider that 480i throws a tiny wrench into precise timings, requiring the timing circuitry of the capture device to be very robust to account for quick changes like that.

    On that note, I've done some more work on it and it's just about perfect now. On a Sony CRT VGA monitor it looks like a BVM but even sharper! Almost too sharp with scanlines:



    I need to look into which CPLDs might be appropriate and look into designing a board if there is any interest. I'd love to just make a thread for this, but I don't have permissions to create threads...

  10. #285
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    Hello all! I'm new to the forums and am struggling a bit...

    I hope no one minds me hijacking the thread, but I've been googling like mad without much luck...

    I have a CMVS made for me which seems to work fine on my HDTV via Frame Meister XRGB, however when connected to my Sony BVM-20F1U I'm getting an overly bright, saturated image that I can't seem to correct via screen controls. I posted another forum asking for advice which seems to be a need for 75 ohm resistors, however one user recommended against doing that, however his explanation was too technical for me to understand...

    Any help with this would be very, very appreciated!

    Thanks!

  11. #286
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    Most things that take RGB inputs are terminated with 75 ohms, and expect the signal coming in to have 75 ohms of series resistance before the jack. The 75 ohm resistors on both sides form a voltage divider. Without the 75 ohm series resistance, substantially less / no current is drawn to ground, resulting in more going into the video processor / amplification stage. Try a 75 ohm resistor in series on the R, G, and B lines and see if it helps. Likely the XRGB will continue to look fine this way.

  12. #287
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    Been meaning to post this for a while, finally got my pictures online.

    20140804_121449-1.jpg

    20140804_133714%u002525280%u00252529-1.jpg

    The image is ok... Nothing next to the PVM, but 240p (15khz) via component direct support is nice.

  13. #288
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    I got a consolized NeoGeo MVS Mv1fz hooked up through a euro scart. Unfortunatly it has a glitch. Maybe this can be helped? I made a movie of the glitch without a cartridge.

    http://youtu.be/jH4Ecka2hPo

  14. #289
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    The video is set to private and can't be viewed.
    Check out Todd's Nerd Cave on Youtube!


    [Rot] 1:50 pm: ladyboys are HAWT!

  15. #290
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    Change it in the Unibios? Or do i need to change something else?

  16. #291
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    ?


    No, your youtube video is set to private and we can't see it.
    Check out Todd's Nerd Cave on Youtube!


    [Rot] 1:50 pm: ladyboys are HAWT!

  17. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by broken View Post
    ?


    No, your youtube video is set to private and we can't see it.
    Lol, i changed it. You can see it

  18. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by broken View Post
    ?


    No, your youtube video is set to private and we can't see it.
    Oh, lol. A bit stupid from me...
    I changed it and its public now. So you can see it.

  19. #294
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    I've got an MV1C, JROK Encoder and Sync Cleaner, 0.01 uF Capacitor on sync line to the sync cleaner.

    Panasonic 42" Plasma - TH-42PX80U - Composite and S-video both work great, have not tested Component

    Sansui 19" LCD - HDLCD1912 - Composite, S-video AND component all work VERY well.


    However.. I'm not sure of the model but one of my friend's VERY nice Samsung 50 something inch.. I don't remember if it was Plasma or LED/LCD because I tried it yesterday.. didn't work well, the screen would roll vertically and constantly. With his supergun and a spare MV1C, without any capacitor on sync, the same JROK encoder and cleaner... his screen would display well but would rarely flicker on and off. So we're not sure if it was a ground issue or something with the sync..


    updates to come soon. Trying to find some sort of source to help explain how to determine what each TV requires for sync (which capacitor, etc)..

  20. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTRetro87 View Post
    I've got an MV1C, JROK Encoder and Sync Cleaner, 0.01 uF Capacitor on sync line to the sync cleaner.

    Panasonic 42" Plasma - TH-42PX80U - Composite and S-video both work great, have not tested Component

    Sansui 19" LCD - HDLCD1912 - Composite, S-video AND component all work VERY well.


    However.. I'm not sure of the model but one of my friend's VERY nice Samsung 50 something inch.. I don't remember if it was Plasma or LED/LCD because I tried it yesterday.. didn't work well, the screen would roll vertically and constantly. With his supergun and a spare MV1C, without any capacitor on sync, the same JROK encoder and cleaner... his screen would display well but would rarely flicker on and off. So we're not sure if it was a ground issue or something with the sync..


    updates to come soon. Trying to find some sort of source to help explain how to determine what each TV requires for sync (which capacitor, etc)..





    Samsung TV that had a Vertical Sync issue (rolling) with my 0.01uF capped MVS was a 51" F8500 Plasma Smart TV

  21. #296
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    Hi,

    MVS
    Samsung SyncMaster P2770HD 27"
    Scart RGB
    Work Great

  22. #297
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    I let you guys know about the Panasonic 3DTV set I bought in 2010, and it worked perfectly using the NeoBitz Component board. Well, I have another Panasonic 3DTV set now, made in January 2012, model number TC-P55ST30, and the picture is crystal clear playing the NeoGeo using the NeoBitz Component mod. Sadly, like the other Panasonic 3DTV set from 2010, there is no S-Video input, so it is either Component, Composite, or HDMI. So, for the Neo I use Component. I guess it is time I mod all my older consoles with Component now. Ahhh damn, just when I had like a million nice S-Video cables lol.

    I also own a nice SONY Wega Trinitron model KV-32HS420 Manufactured Sept. 2004 and the Component on it looks really awesome! There is a LOT of different ways to display the picture, with or without scan lines, full screen forced wide screen etc etc.. If you are heavily into the 4:3 full screen HDTV sets and want a great picture, this is one of the better sets for the NEo-Geo and older consoles as this tv set also has S-Video, and Composite with a nice 3D YC fliter. It even sports an HDMI and displays in 1080i for HDTV content. For $100 at Goodwill, bought about 5 years ago, it is a great tv set. The only fucking problem is that it weighs a god damn ton, and finding a place to put this heavy and bulky motherfucker is a difficult task when I already have 3 other HDTV sets in the same damn room. So for now it sits on the floor, pushed against the wall and is no longer in action. I hope to find a place for it again one day. Awesome set! There is also a 36" version out there, which is a step above this set in size if your looking for the best set for old game consoles, other than the PVM series that is.

  23. #298
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    Any idea why composite out (cmvs) would work on all my tvs but one? Does it have to do with sync rate? The screen just flashes occasionally on and off.

  24. #299
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    Hi,

    I like and use the product of Sony. I think, Sony is a good appliance maker.

  25. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luna View Post
    Hi,

    I like and use the product of Sony. I think, Sony is a good appliance maker.
    huh? lol. Which one?

    I currently use a PVM20M4A. Picture is great. Still need to get myself a scart cable for some RGB goodness.

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