- Joined
- Mar 8, 2002
- Posts
- 3,686
Upon request here's a detailed survey of a Naomi consolization project I did some time ago. It shows how it is possible to rig up a Naomi home setup that isn't an unsightly mess of parts, bits and wires all over the place. Despite being often considered problematic to deal with, Naomi is actually the most consolization-friendly arcade system out there.
The main board is in fact equipped with a so-called filterboard that has built-in connectors for power, video and audio so we don't have to worry about fitting them ourselves as we are accustomed to doing when consolizing other more traditional systems.
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/2827/a1wh1.jpg
Like Atomiswave Naomi outputs 15KHz RGB from the VGA port at the flip of a DIP switch:
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/3421/a2ab5.jpg
What's particularly nice is the fact that the RGB voltage levels are 0.7vpp which is what a scart TV (or a non-arcade RGB monitor) requires. This means that it's just a matter of making an appropriate cable to display a perfect RGB picture that doesn't need any tweaking at all. Pre-amplified stereo sound is output from standard phono jacks so I ran both the audio and the video cables to a scart plug:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/9739/a3ub9.jpg
In order to get a syncing picture I had to wire both vsync and hsync to pin 20 of the scart plug. This cable works on Atomiswave as well (but sadly an AW doesn't have built-in phono jacks).
Wiring power is also pretty easy once you get hold of the right connectors which are JST branded:
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/9153/b1pi9.jpg
Here's a link to the official datasheet for this connector series:
http://www.jst-mfg.com/ProductGuideE/EVL1.html
These connectors and crimp terminals can be ordered from the worldwide distributor http://www.rs-components.com/, just choose your country and enter the following codes:
476-6580 (6-pin housing, 10 pcs)
476-6603 (8-pin housing, 10 pcs)
512-9235 (crimp terminals, 100 pcs)
(for the 6-pin GD-ROM power connector see below)
Alternatively you could request samples from the manufacturer itself although I haven't tried this myself:
http://www.jst.com/
I was requested to crimp them on an ATX extension so that it was possible to power a complete Naomi setup (including a GD-ROM drive) with an unmodded PC PSU:
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/7848/b2mx6.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/8255/b3ur3.jpg
However, I also wanted to have a PSU that was smaller and dedicated so I got me a micro-ATX PSU and fitted it with the JST connectors as well as a 6-pin Molex Mini-Fit for a GD-ROM power harness that can be disconnected when a GD-ROM drive is not present. The original wires of the micro-ATX were 20awg which wasn't to my liking so I replaced them with thicker 18awg wires and kept their length to a minimum. Each JST terminal is crimped on two wires for a total of 20 18awg wires. I kept 20 gauge for the GD-ROM connector. With such a strong wiring I'm confident voltage drops will be out of question. The PS-ON signal was grounded on the PSU PCB itself so the PSU can be turned on/off with the built-in AC switch.
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/6793/b4ta6.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/8788/b5tb0.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/831/b6ib1.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/572/b7ws0.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2965/b8hv3.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/929/b9nn3.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/8748/c1ps9.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/36/c2sl8.jpg
The only other thing to deal with is the controller inputs. The Naomi uses a separate board to convert the digital inputs of your standard arcade controls into USB signals accepted by the motherboard (it can also convert analog inputs used by a few games but these won't be considered here). There exist a few different I/O boards but due to strict size constraints only one of them is suitable for this project, namely the SEGA rev. B, easily recognizable by the Jamma connector:
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1871/d1zs9.jpg
An I/O board could be thought of as the PCB in a console gamepad that you would hack when building an arcade stick. If I/O's were cheap as console gamepads one could simply fit them inside the arcade stick box as is common practice with gamepad hacks. Sadly an I/O board is fairly expensive, more than a Naomi motherboard actually. So for any additional controller that one may want to have an I/O board would need to be sacrificed: definitely not a cheap option. A further problem is that unlike standard USB gamepads a Naomi I/O cannot be powered through the USB cable because the Naomi USB connections don't carry power. This means that an arcade controller with the I/O in it would have an awkward power cable going out next to the USB one. For these reasons it's evident that this is not a viable solution.
Luckily there is a simpler and better alternative: housing the I/O in the same case as the Naomi motherboard. In order to do this the I/O needs to be stripped down a great deal: all the unnecessary things (unused connectors, RGB amp circuit, etc.) have to go:
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/7866/e1at0.jpg
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/9978/e2pj0.jpg
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/9578/e3mo2.jpg
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/9333/e4bp8.jpg
As a matter of fact only the analog connector (the black one marked CN7) is actually of hindrance but it's obvious that that the slimmer the PCB the better (better airflow inside the case, lighter PCB and less ICs sucking power). A special JST connector that replaces the USB one was added though. I think this is one of the best ideas I had for this project because it works quite well in such a narrow environment (better than a right-angle USB plug):
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5945/e5nw4.jpg
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/7353/e6ey6.jpg
The mating connector:
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2949/f1ed3.jpg
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/6491/f2lz6.jpg
Here's a link to the official datasheet for this connector series:
http://www.jst-mfg.com/ProductGuideE/ENH.html
These connectors can be ordered (or requested as a sample) from http://www.easby.co.uk/ (thanks to Andy Geezer for this info):
4-pin header side entry type:
http://www.easby.co.uk/p/productDetailSmall.php?part=BS4P-SHF-1AA(LF)(SN)
the 4-pin housing doesn't seem to be currently available though.
crimp terminals:
http://www.easby.co.uk/p/productDetailSmall.php?part=SHF-001T-0.8BS
6-pin housing (used for the GD-ROM power connector):
http://www.easby.co.uk/p/productDetailSmall.php?part=H6P-SHF-AA
As for power, since the I/O only needs 5v I thought about using the spare 5v connector on the filterboard:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/969/g1do9.jpg
The only problem is that it's on the outside but this can easily be corrected:
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/8507/g2cu3.jpg
Note that this is the same 4-pin JST header as the one used for USB, just straight instead of right-angle.
Mounting the I/O board on the Naomi case. I used standard PCB feet trimmed down and glued to the case:
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/9023/h1gn7.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5656/h2vu1.jpg
The I/O is getting power on the connector for the additional control inputs:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6944/h3qu8.jpg
and the power harness plugs into the 5v connector that is now on the right side of the filterboard:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9245/h4hp4.jpg
Having such connections instead of hardwiring everything allows the I/O to be easily disconnected if need be.
The clearance between the I/O and the main board:
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5237/h5rf6.jpg
Mounting the controller ports and credit switches:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3662/i1ob5.jpg
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3807/i2be0.jpg
The pinout I was requested to use:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3654/i3fu8.jpg
Normally I'd disagree to having credit switches on the main unit as I think crediting is best done with switches on the controllers but this was a request so I had to comply with it.
Wiring the controller ports and the credit switches:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9600/i4pm7.jpg
A jumper has to be set to the correct position (A) to enable button 6:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3598/i5zx8.jpg
Note that up to this point no work was done to the Naomi main PCB which can be disconnected from the filterboard. This allows for easy replacements in case of failure as well as upgrade to Naomi 2 which shares the same filterboard connections as Naomi 1 so you can swap between the two.
However I felt like adding a final touch and move the built-in power LEDs for 3.3v (green) and 5v (red) from the main board onto the case so they could be seen externally. To avoid hardwiring, which would make it impossible to disconnect the main board without cutting/desoldering the LED wires, I mounted a couple of molex headers with a compatible pitch (.100"/2.54mm) in their place, thus maintaining the disconnect feature:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8159/j1wz2.jpg
http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/8607/j2cc7.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1017/j3hk4.jpg
The final result:
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/609/k1of6.png
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/8441/k2xs9.png
(the GD-ROM drive is meant to stay in this position:
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/9192/k3ez1.jpg)
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8051/l1sk1.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7821/l2gp3.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9405/l3oa5.jpg
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8602/l4ky3.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1553/l5ny0.jpg
This modded unit can still be used in a Naomi cab either by disabling the internal I/O (thanks to the disconnectable power and USB harnesses) and using an external one or by wiring the controller ports to the control panel connectors which would make a neater cab setup and you wouldn't have to get another I/O board.
The main board is in fact equipped with a so-called filterboard that has built-in connectors for power, video and audio so we don't have to worry about fitting them ourselves as we are accustomed to doing when consolizing other more traditional systems.
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/2827/a1wh1.jpg
Like Atomiswave Naomi outputs 15KHz RGB from the VGA port at the flip of a DIP switch:
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/3421/a2ab5.jpg
What's particularly nice is the fact that the RGB voltage levels are 0.7vpp which is what a scart TV (or a non-arcade RGB monitor) requires. This means that it's just a matter of making an appropriate cable to display a perfect RGB picture that doesn't need any tweaking at all. Pre-amplified stereo sound is output from standard phono jacks so I ran both the audio and the video cables to a scart plug:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/9739/a3ub9.jpg
In order to get a syncing picture I had to wire both vsync and hsync to pin 20 of the scart plug. This cable works on Atomiswave as well (but sadly an AW doesn't have built-in phono jacks).
Wiring power is also pretty easy once you get hold of the right connectors which are JST branded:
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/9153/b1pi9.jpg
Here's a link to the official datasheet for this connector series:
http://www.jst-mfg.com/ProductGuideE/EVL1.html
These connectors and crimp terminals can be ordered from the worldwide distributor http://www.rs-components.com/, just choose your country and enter the following codes:
476-6580 (6-pin housing, 10 pcs)
476-6603 (8-pin housing, 10 pcs)
512-9235 (crimp terminals, 100 pcs)
(for the 6-pin GD-ROM power connector see below)
Alternatively you could request samples from the manufacturer itself although I haven't tried this myself:
http://www.jst.com/
I was requested to crimp them on an ATX extension so that it was possible to power a complete Naomi setup (including a GD-ROM drive) with an unmodded PC PSU:
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/7848/b2mx6.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/8255/b3ur3.jpg
However, I also wanted to have a PSU that was smaller and dedicated so I got me a micro-ATX PSU and fitted it with the JST connectors as well as a 6-pin Molex Mini-Fit for a GD-ROM power harness that can be disconnected when a GD-ROM drive is not present. The original wires of the micro-ATX were 20awg which wasn't to my liking so I replaced them with thicker 18awg wires and kept their length to a minimum. Each JST terminal is crimped on two wires for a total of 20 18awg wires. I kept 20 gauge for the GD-ROM connector. With such a strong wiring I'm confident voltage drops will be out of question. The PS-ON signal was grounded on the PSU PCB itself so the PSU can be turned on/off with the built-in AC switch.
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/6793/b4ta6.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/8788/b5tb0.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/831/b6ib1.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/572/b7ws0.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2965/b8hv3.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/929/b9nn3.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/8748/c1ps9.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/36/c2sl8.jpg
The only other thing to deal with is the controller inputs. The Naomi uses a separate board to convert the digital inputs of your standard arcade controls into USB signals accepted by the motherboard (it can also convert analog inputs used by a few games but these won't be considered here). There exist a few different I/O boards but due to strict size constraints only one of them is suitable for this project, namely the SEGA rev. B, easily recognizable by the Jamma connector:
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1871/d1zs9.jpg
An I/O board could be thought of as the PCB in a console gamepad that you would hack when building an arcade stick. If I/O's were cheap as console gamepads one could simply fit them inside the arcade stick box as is common practice with gamepad hacks. Sadly an I/O board is fairly expensive, more than a Naomi motherboard actually. So for any additional controller that one may want to have an I/O board would need to be sacrificed: definitely not a cheap option. A further problem is that unlike standard USB gamepads a Naomi I/O cannot be powered through the USB cable because the Naomi USB connections don't carry power. This means that an arcade controller with the I/O in it would have an awkward power cable going out next to the USB one. For these reasons it's evident that this is not a viable solution.
Luckily there is a simpler and better alternative: housing the I/O in the same case as the Naomi motherboard. In order to do this the I/O needs to be stripped down a great deal: all the unnecessary things (unused connectors, RGB amp circuit, etc.) have to go:
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/7866/e1at0.jpg
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/9978/e2pj0.jpg
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/9578/e3mo2.jpg
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/9333/e4bp8.jpg
As a matter of fact only the analog connector (the black one marked CN7) is actually of hindrance but it's obvious that that the slimmer the PCB the better (better airflow inside the case, lighter PCB and less ICs sucking power). A special JST connector that replaces the USB one was added though. I think this is one of the best ideas I had for this project because it works quite well in such a narrow environment (better than a right-angle USB plug):
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5945/e5nw4.jpg
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/7353/e6ey6.jpg
The mating connector:
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2949/f1ed3.jpg
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/6491/f2lz6.jpg
Here's a link to the official datasheet for this connector series:
http://www.jst-mfg.com/ProductGuideE/ENH.html
These connectors can be ordered (or requested as a sample) from http://www.easby.co.uk/ (thanks to Andy Geezer for this info):
4-pin header side entry type:
http://www.easby.co.uk/p/productDetailSmall.php?part=BS4P-SHF-1AA(LF)(SN)
the 4-pin housing doesn't seem to be currently available though.
crimp terminals:
http://www.easby.co.uk/p/productDetailSmall.php?part=SHF-001T-0.8BS
6-pin housing (used for the GD-ROM power connector):
http://www.easby.co.uk/p/productDetailSmall.php?part=H6P-SHF-AA
As for power, since the I/O only needs 5v I thought about using the spare 5v connector on the filterboard:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/969/g1do9.jpg
The only problem is that it's on the outside but this can easily be corrected:
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/8507/g2cu3.jpg
Note that this is the same 4-pin JST header as the one used for USB, just straight instead of right-angle.
Mounting the I/O board on the Naomi case. I used standard PCB feet trimmed down and glued to the case:
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/9023/h1gn7.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5656/h2vu1.jpg
The I/O is getting power on the connector for the additional control inputs:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6944/h3qu8.jpg
and the power harness plugs into the 5v connector that is now on the right side of the filterboard:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9245/h4hp4.jpg
Having such connections instead of hardwiring everything allows the I/O to be easily disconnected if need be.
The clearance between the I/O and the main board:
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5237/h5rf6.jpg
Mounting the controller ports and credit switches:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3662/i1ob5.jpg
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3807/i2be0.jpg
The pinout I was requested to use:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3654/i3fu8.jpg
Normally I'd disagree to having credit switches on the main unit as I think crediting is best done with switches on the controllers but this was a request so I had to comply with it.
Wiring the controller ports and the credit switches:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9600/i4pm7.jpg
A jumper has to be set to the correct position (A) to enable button 6:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3598/i5zx8.jpg
Note that up to this point no work was done to the Naomi main PCB which can be disconnected from the filterboard. This allows for easy replacements in case of failure as well as upgrade to Naomi 2 which shares the same filterboard connections as Naomi 1 so you can swap between the two.
However I felt like adding a final touch and move the built-in power LEDs for 3.3v (green) and 5v (red) from the main board onto the case so they could be seen externally. To avoid hardwiring, which would make it impossible to disconnect the main board without cutting/desoldering the LED wires, I mounted a couple of molex headers with a compatible pitch (.100"/2.54mm) in their place, thus maintaining the disconnect feature:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8159/j1wz2.jpg
http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/8607/j2cc7.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1017/j3hk4.jpg
The final result:
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/609/k1of6.png
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/8441/k2xs9.png
(the GD-ROM drive is meant to stay in this position:
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/9192/k3ez1.jpg)
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8051/l1sk1.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7821/l2gp3.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9405/l3oa5.jpg
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8602/l4ky3.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1553/l5ny0.jpg
This modded unit can still be used in a Naomi cab either by disabling the internal I/O (thanks to the disconnectable power and USB harnesses) and using an external one or by wiring the controller ports to the control panel connectors which would make a neater cab setup and you wouldn't have to get another I/O board.
Last edited: