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Thread: Consolized Naomi system

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    Consolized Naomi system

    Upon request here's a detailed survey of a Naomi consolization project I did some time ago. It shows how it is possible to rig up a Naomi home setup that isn't an unsightly mess of parts, bits and wires all over the place. Despite being often considered problematic to deal with, Naomi is actually the most consolization-friendly arcade system out there.

    The main board is in fact equipped with a so-called filterboard that has built-in connectors for power, video and audio so we don't have to worry about fitting them ourselves as we are accustomed to doing when consolizing other more traditional systems.

    http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/2827/a1wh1.jpg

    Like Atomiswave Naomi outputs 15KHz RGB from the VGA port at the flip of a DIP switch:

    http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/3421/a2ab5.jpg

    What's particularly nice is the fact that the RGB voltage levels are 0.7vpp which is what a scart TV (or a non-arcade RGB monitor) requires. This means that it's just a matter of making an appropriate cable to display a perfect RGB picture that doesn't need any tweaking at all. Pre-amplified stereo sound is output from standard phono jacks so I ran both the audio and the video cables to a scart plug:

    http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/9739/a3ub9.jpg

    In order to get a syncing picture I had to wire both vsync and hsync to pin 20 of the scart plug. This cable works on Atomiswave as well (but sadly an AW doesn't have built-in phono jacks).

    Wiring power is also pretty easy once you get hold of the right connectors which are JST branded:

    http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/9153/b1pi9.jpg

    Here's a link to the official datasheet for this connector series:

    http://www.jst-mfg.com/ProductGuideE/EVL1.html

    These connectors and crimp terminals can be ordered from the worldwide distributor http://www.rs-components.com/, just choose your country and enter the following codes:

    476-6580 (6-pin housing, 10 pcs)
    476-6603 (8-pin housing, 10 pcs)
    512-9235 (crimp terminals, 100 pcs)

    (for the 6-pin GD-ROM power connector see below)

    Alternatively you could request samples from the manufacturer itself although I haven't tried this myself:

    http://www.jst.com/

    I was requested to crimp them on an ATX extension so that it was possible to power a complete Naomi setup (including a GD-ROM drive) with an unmodded PC PSU:

    http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/7848/b2mx6.jpg
    http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/8255/b3ur3.jpg

    However, I also wanted to have a PSU that was smaller and dedicated so I got me a micro-ATX PSU and fitted it with the JST connectors as well as a 6-pin Molex Mini-Fit for a GD-ROM power harness that can be disconnected when a GD-ROM drive is not present. The original wires of the micro-ATX were 20awg which wasn't to my liking so I replaced them with thicker 18awg wires and kept their length to a minimum. Each JST terminal is crimped on two wires for a total of 20 18awg wires. I kept 20 gauge for the GD-ROM connector. With such a strong wiring I'm confident voltage drops will be out of question. The PS-ON signal was grounded on the PSU PCB itself so the PSU can be turned on/off with the built-in AC switch.

    http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/6793/b4ta6.jpg
    http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/8788/b5tb0.jpg
    http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/831/b6ib1.jpg
    http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/572/b7ws0.jpg
    http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2965/b8hv3.jpg
    http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/929/b9nn3.jpg
    http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/8748/c1ps9.jpg
    http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/36/c2sl8.jpg

    The only other thing to deal with is the controller inputs. The Naomi uses a separate board to convert the digital inputs of your standard arcade controls into USB signals accepted by the motherboard (it can also convert analog inputs used by a few games but these won't be considered here). There exist a few different I/O boards but due to strict size constraints only one of them is suitable for this project, namely the SEGA rev. B, easily recognizable by the Jamma connector:

    http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1871/d1zs9.jpg

    An I/O board could be thought of as the PCB in a console gamepad that you would hack when building an arcade stick. If I/O's were cheap as console gamepads one could simply fit them inside the arcade stick box as is common practice with gamepad hacks. Sadly an I/O board is fairly expensive, more than a Naomi motherboard actually. So for any additional controller that one may want to have an I/O board would need to be sacrificed: definitely not a cheap option. A further problem is that unlike standard USB gamepads a Naomi I/O cannot be powered through the USB cable because the Naomi USB connections don't carry power. This means that an arcade controller with the I/O in it would have an awkward power cable going out next to the USB one. For these reasons it's evident that this is not a viable solution.
    Luckily there is a simpler and better alternative: housing the I/O in the same case as the Naomi motherboard. In order to do this the I/O needs to be stripped down a great deal: all the unnecessary things (unused connectors, RGB amp circuit, etc.) have to go:

    http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/7866/e1at0.jpg
    http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/9978/e2pj0.jpg
    http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/9578/e3mo2.jpg
    http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/9333/e4bp8.jpg

    As a matter of fact only the analog connector (the black one marked CN7) is actually of hindrance but it's obvious that that the slimmer the PCB the better (better airflow inside the case, lighter PCB and less ICs sucking power). A special JST connector that replaces the USB one was added though. I think this is one of the best ideas I had for this project because it works quite well in such a narrow environment (better than a right-angle USB plug):

    http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5945/e5nw4.jpg
    http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/7353/e6ey6.jpg

    The mating connector:

    http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2949/f1ed3.jpg
    http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/6491/f2lz6.jpg

    Here's a link to the official datasheet for this connector series:

    http://www.jst-mfg.com/ProductGuideE/ENH.html

    These connectors can be ordered (or requested as a sample) from http://www.easby.co.uk/ (thanks to Andy Geezer for this info):

    4-pin header side entry type:
    http://www.easby.co.uk/p/productDeta...HF-1AA(LF)(SN)

    the 4-pin housing doesn't seem to be currently available though.

    crimp terminals:
    http://www.easby.co.uk/p/productDeta...SHF-001T-0.8BS

    6-pin housing (used for the GD-ROM power connector):
    http://www.easby.co.uk/p/productDeta...art=H6P-SHF-AA

    As for power, since the I/O only needs 5v I thought about using the spare 5v connector on the filterboard:

    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/969/g1do9.jpg

    The only problem is that it's on the outside but this can easily be corrected:

    http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/8507/g2cu3.jpg

    Note that this is the same 4-pin JST header as the one used for USB, just straight instead of right-angle.

    Mounting the I/O board on the Naomi case. I used standard PCB feet trimmed down and glued to the case:

    http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/9023/h1gn7.jpg
    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5656/h2vu1.jpg

    The I/O is getting power on the connector for the additional control inputs:

    http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6944/h3qu8.jpg

    and the power harness plugs into the 5v connector that is now on the right side of the filterboard:

    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9245/h4hp4.jpg

    Having such connections instead of hardwiring everything allows the I/O to be easily disconnected if need be.

    The clearance between the I/O and the main board:

    http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5237/h5rf6.jpg

    Mounting the controller ports and credit switches:

    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3662/i1ob5.jpg
    http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3807/i2be0.jpg

    The pinout I was requested to use:

    http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3654/i3fu8.jpg

    Normally I'd disagree to having credit switches on the main unit as I think crediting is best done with switches on the controllers but this was a request so I had to comply with it.

    Wiring the controller ports and the credit switches:

    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9600/i4pm7.jpg

    A jumper has to be set to the correct position (A) to enable button 6:

    http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3598/i5zx8.jpg

    Note that up to this point no work was done to the Naomi main PCB which can be disconnected from the filterboard. This allows for easy replacements in case of failure as well as upgrade to Naomi 2 which shares the same filterboard connections as Naomi 1 so you can swap between the two.
    However I felt like adding a final touch and move the built-in power LEDs for 3.3v (green) and 5v (red) from the main board onto the case so they could be seen externally. To avoid hardwiring, which would make it impossible to disconnect the main board without cutting/desoldering the LED wires, I mounted a couple of molex headers with a compatible pitch (.100"/2.54mm) in their place, thus maintaining the disconnect feature:

    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8159/j1wz2.jpg
    http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/8607/j2cc7.jpg
    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1017/j3hk4.jpg

    The final result:

    http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/609/k1of6.png
    http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/8441/k2xs9.png
    (the GD-ROM drive is meant to stay in this position:
    http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/9192/k3ez1.jpg)
    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8051/l1sk1.jpg
    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7821/l2gp3.jpg
    http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9405/l3oa5.jpg
    http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8602/l4ky3.jpg
    http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/1553/l5ny0.jpg

    This modded unit can still be used in a Naomi cab either by disabling the internal I/O (thanks to the disconnectable power and USB harnesses) and using an external one or by wiring the controller ports to the control panel connectors which would make a neater cab setup and you wouldn't have to get another I/O board.
    Last edited by MKL; 10-14-2006 at 09:50 AM.

  2. #2
    Tesse's Maintainence Man
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    Nice review their MKL, very detailed & well laid out, a great option for the Naomi home user without a cab

  3. #3
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    That is some fucking awesome work right there.



    For the tunes lovers!

  4. #4
    Banned The Don's Avatar
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    Very impressive MKL
    I'm a big fan of these consolized set ups and thats one of the best systems ive seen
    exellent work.

  5. #5
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    icon15.gif Naomi.

    Great work as always Michele,

    I would like to ask you a question, I have a Naomi 2 setup with a Capcom IO board and my Naomi 2 is only powered to the CN1 connector, the question I have is what is the CN2 connector for? as mine seems to run fine just powered by the CN1 connector via the Capcom IO.

    Are CN1 and CN2 wired in parallel and if they are could I tap off of CN2 to power a GD Rom Drive when I get one in the future? or would I be better off tapping 12v and 5v from the Jamma connector to power the drive?

    Thanks

    Steve.
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    First post edited with info on where to get the connectors used in the project.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by thegreathopper
    Great work as always Michele,

    I would like to ask you a question, I have a Naomi 2 setup with a Capcom IO board and my Naomi 2 is only powered to the CN1 connector, the question I have is what is the CN2 connector for? as mine seems to run fine just powered by the CN1 connector via the Capcom IO.

    Are CN1 and CN2 wired in parallel and if they are could I tap off of CN2 to power a GD Rom Drive when I get one in the future? or would I be better off tapping 12v and 5v from the Jamma connector to power the drive?

    Thanks

    Steve.
    CN2 (6-pin connector on the filterboard) is used for a better, more reliable power connection. The official Sun power supply in fact uses both connection and with pretty short wires (like my modded PSU). With the Capcom I/O you have just one wire for 5v and 3.3v (12v isn't an issue) and the wires are also longer (that's why they used a thicker gauge, 16awg) not to mention the fact that the 3.3v converter on the I/O doesn't output nearly as much current as the official PSU. So this connection may work but is not ideal. In general you could use CN2 to tap power for the GD-ROM but if the power source is the I/O that might be asking for trouble. You're definitely better off powering the drive from the jamma PSU. Oh and CN2 doesn't have 12v so you need a different source for that anyway...
    Last edited by MKL; 10-14-2006 at 10:13 AM.

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    Ahh... Had this issue with a C-AW I just got shipped last week, I found RGB was perfect via scart however no sound was comming thru...

    At 1st I couldn't figure out why and my red and white sound jack lead connected to the AW and TV wouldn't work with the RGB picture... I either had sound & no picture or picture & no sound via differing channels.

    After some panic on the new C-AW I figured out sound and picture all have to be sync'd to scart....

    I'm waiting for that lead after some hurried emails

    Anyway, Sorry MKL... Going on a bit here in your thread but
    not only fantastic work... Fantastic thread with all info.

    Kudos

    Quote Originally Posted by MKL
    What's particularly nice is the fact that the RGB voltage levels are 0.7vpp which is what a scart TV (or a non-arcade RGB monitor) requires. This means that it's just a matter of making an appropriate cable to display a perfect RGB picture that doesn't need any tweaking at all. Pre-amplified stereo sound is output from standard phono jacks so I ran both the audio and the video cables to a scart plug:

    http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/9739/a3ub9.jpg

    In order to get a syncing picture I had to wire both vsync and hsync to pin 20 of the scart plug. This cable works on Atomiswave as well (but sadly an AW doesn't have built-in phono jacks).
    Last edited by Stellaking; 10-14-2006 at 10:25 AM.

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    MKL.

    Thanks for the info Michele,

    My Naomi is powered by the Capcom IO and only uses the CN1 connector, I will power the GD rom drive from the Jamma power supply.
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    Wow, that's for the really in depth explanation of everything. This is something I've been wanting to do for some time now.

    Could you tell me how you get the controller ports so precise? I always mess it up somehow when trying to dremel those out.
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  11. #11
    Tesse's Maintainence Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegreathopper
    Thanks for the info Michele,

    My Naomi is powered by the Capcom IO and only uses the CN1 connector, I will power the GD rom drive from the Jamma power supply.
    Your still be better off using the oficial unit (which has a 110v input)

    http://www.sega-naomi.com/pics/segapsu.jpg

    I also have a official extender wire for 1 of the short leads or you could use a pc psu with a adaptor like this:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sega-NAOMI-PC-...QQcmdZViewItem

    I have the official psu, but still use a pc psu as it can run off 240v & therefore better in my Impress as that fully converted to UK power now.

  12. #12
    Tesse's Maintainence Man
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    But to add you will still need to power you Capcom I/O off the Jamma psu as it needs 5v for the inbuilt sound amp, I have the power cable on the I/O disconected & use VGA direct from the mobo to the monitor.

  13. #13
    Benimaru's Hairdresser
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    Quote Originally Posted by RGP
    But to add you will still need to power you Capcom I/O off the Jamma psu as it needs 5v for the inbuilt sound amp, I have the power cable on the I/O disconected & use VGA direct from the mobo to the monitor.
    I do not use the amp on the Capcom IO, I take the stereo out of the Naomi2 board direct to a seperate amp and I take the VGA direct from the Naomi2 board to the monitor.

    But I still need to supply the GD Rom Drive unit, I thought I could just tap off 12v,5v and ground from the jamma power supply, or do you think I need a seperate power supply for the GD drive?

    Thanks for the info.
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  14. #14
    Tesse's Maintainence Man
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    The GD drive needs 3.3v to run, hence why its better to have a seprate psu.

    I used to turn my 5v line all the way on my Jamma psu & run it though my Capcom I/O, but this can damage it & will only work its you can turn your Jamma psu up to output about 5.8v, my model 2 Sega psu only went upto 5.23v max.
    Last edited by RGP; 10-14-2006 at 01:23 PM.

  15. #15
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    Thanls for the tutorial, I got a system and was planning somthing similiar, I was just going to output to a monitor or hdtv with vga and use the rca connectors
    for sound and a computer psu for power just need to figure out what to do for controllers. Wow

    are any of the cn connectors on the front of the filter board used for analog controlls and how many games use these? teo of the cn connectors arent described in the manual id guess they could be controller ports. They look just like the controller inputs for virtual fighter and that generation of game.

  16. #16
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    Exclamation

    is possible to play this games
    Jambo! Safari
    Gun Beat
    Wave Runners GP
    Crazy Taxi

    with neogeo pad controller

  17. #17
    Tesse's Maintainence Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEOFREAK9189
    is possible to play this games
    Jambo! Safari
    Gun Beat
    Wave Runners GP
    Crazy Taxi

    with neogeo pad controller

    Racing games would need analogue controls so no, I think the analogue games need the JVS I/O board found in JVS cabs too.

  18. #18
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    Excellent writeup as usual, MKL!

  19. #19
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    I saw this on the arcade subforum

    help me find my sex, it fell out.

  20. #20
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    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by RGP
    Racing games would need analogue controls so no, I think the analogue games need the JVS I/O board found in JVS cabs too.
    is possible to hack a ps2 or pc Racing Wheel for the naomi

  21. #21
    Tesse's Maintainence Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEOFREAK9189
    is possible to hack a ps2 or pc Racing Wheel for the naomi
    I don't think the JVS I/O has been hacked yet.

  22. #22
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    Great work MKL!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by RGP
    I don't think the JVS I/O has been hacked yet.
    It's really about time someone does... I mean, USB isn't that bloody complicated, is it? I mean, couldn't someone build some kind of USB code interceptor or something for use between the I/O board and the Noami itself? That, or do the IO boards have roms to read and copy and reverse enginer? Sorry, I know nothing about computers and such, but I was just wondering why it HASN'T been done. I think there is a big enough scene for NOAMI (far bigger than the CPS3 by any chance..).
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  24. #24
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    The JVS USB should be full documented, AFAIK.

    Except I can't find any documents on it. I hear that the JVS USB is wired funny?

  25. #25
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    How safe is using a DC power supply for this. I dont like having an external power supply with extra wires. I did wire up my DC PS and I got power. I didnt check the audio. I did get laoding game screen and no USB connected thingy. I have the DC power supply inside of the naomi case, I had to trim some plastic back and Im not too handy with the dremel. I tried to have the PS connecter like the DC at the back of the console flush. The trimming is a little off but its snug in there till I can find another way of securing it.

    next I need to put the interface in there but while trying to unsolder the black serial port connecter I couldnt get the damn thing off and I gave up. Too much soldering today as I wired up 2 DC pads for future use. Any idea on how to do this. its like the solder wasnt melting so I couldnt use my sucker to take it out. Also I need to map out the jamma pinout on the interface wich shouldnt be hard tho if someone has it already that would be nice.

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