CPS3 battery change guide.

Razoola

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Hi, I have done a guide to swap CPS3 batteries based an old one on from the net which has long since gone. As I have never swapped out CPS3 batteries myself I wonder if people that have can take a look through it to confirm there are no mistakes. The guide can be found at http://www.cps2shock.com/cps3.

Raz
 
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meanbean

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Razoola, the guide is correct. Perhaps, you can give credit to David Baltes in your guide somewhere. He was the author of the original CPS3 battery replacement guide that yours is based on.
 
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Razoola

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meanbean said:
Razoola, the guide is correct. Perhaps, you can give credit to David Baltes in your guide somewhere. He was the author of the original CPS3 battery replacement guide that yours is based on.

I have just done that now (top and bottom of FAQ). I have also updated the URL, its now http://www.cps2shock.com/cps3.
 

MKL

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Not a mistake by any means but why solder the negative of the helper battery in such a small point that is also so close to the infamous black wire when you have at disposal other more suitable ground points in less delicate areas of the PCB? For instance:

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5296/cps3battery9yl.jpg
 

Razoola

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MKL said:
Not a mistake by any means but why solder the negative of the helper battery in such a small point that is also so close to the infamous black wire when you have at disposal other more suitable ground points in less delicate areas of the PCB? For instance:

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5296/cps3battery9yl.jpg

That looks like a good idea, I will update the FAQ later today. Is it ok to use that picture also?

Raz
 

Razoola

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Updated the FAQ to use the solder point MKL mentions. I must say it does make sence and makes the job that little bit easier.

Raz
 

Spike Spiegel

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Raz, the day you figure out the suicide to cps3 is the day I worship you as my new god. No bullshit, I've got a CPS3 game that's dead in the hopes that one day you will save it.... :P
 

Stellarola

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Spike Spiegel said:
Raz, the day you figure out the suicide to cps3 is the day I worship you as my new god. No bullshit, I've got a CPS3 game that's dead in the hopes that one day you will save it.... :P


Yea, Raz


I agree with Spike here. I'm willing to donate to find a cure for the untimely deaths of these cps3 carts. Salvation is near? :chimp:
 

Razoola

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I got a CPS3 already (no CD jojos) so I don't need any donation. I simply don't have time to start looking at it at present.

Raz
 

MKL

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Razoola said:
Are you 100% sure that will work?

Raz

If you mean if I tried this myself no, I've never worked on a CPS3 but it's evident from the pics that the daughter PCB is getting power from the main PCB, so if you ground the daughterboard to some other point on the mobo you may well remove the other ground wire. Maybe Meanbean wants to try this since he often swaps batteries?
 

Razoola

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hmmm, what is the correct battery voltage to use, 3.6v or 3v for CPS3?

Raz
 

DaemoN

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I've repeated this countless times across various forums, but noone pays attention.

I had a Street Fighter 3 2nd Impact cart with that stupid extra black wire.

I soldered another one from the daughter board to another ground spot on the board.

Powered the game, removed one battery, soldered another, bang. Works fine.

Instead of powering the game on, you can use a backup battery. Works the same.
 

Razoola

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DaemoN said:
I've repeated this countless times across various forums, but noone pays attention.

I had a Street Fighter 3 2nd Impact cart with that stupid extra black wire.

I soldered another one from the daughter board to another ground spot on the board.

Powered the game, removed one battery, soldered another, bang. Works fine.

Instead of powering the game on, you can use a backup battery. Works the same.

Ok, I still need to know the correct battery voltage, do you know? 3v or 3.6v?

Raz
 

DaemoN

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I've found both kinds inside CPS3 carts. My SF3 2nd Impact had a 3V battery, which I replaced with a 3,6V one.
 

ni-ten

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I changed batteries on two 3s boards.
Asia had 3,6v and the jap had a 3.0v.
 

Neo Gold

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Razoola said:
Ok, I still need to know the correct battery voltage, do you know? 3v or 3.6v?

Raz
Hello raz...is the issue with 3v & 3.6v lithium batt critical?..surley 3.6 will suffice?.
Does the jpn sec cart HAVE to have the required 3v?...why did they use the 3.6 in the asia & US sec's?.
Any further info will be greatly appreciated ...as the day after tomorrow i recieve an JPN SF3.3 kit...& the previous owner does not know when the batt was replaced!!...it originaly came from G-front a few months ago...& i was advised that they have them all replaced prior to selling them on.(i cannot take that chance tho).
Thanks for your time raz...& btw the guide is spot on & very clear.
 
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massimiliano

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Hi,

I'm worried about my cps3 games, and I found this:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/dangspot/Parts.html

basically he say you can take away the old battery while the game is running.

Following those step should lead to a clean job, but... what do you think guys?
The black wire could create more or less problems?
 

Scott

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massimiliano said:
Hi,

I'm worried about my cps3 games, and I found this:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/dangspot/Parts.html

basically he say you can take away the old battery while the game is running.

Following those step should lead to a clean job, but... what do you think guys?
The black wire could create more or less problems?

\If you have a multimeter, just find another spot connected to the negative terminal of the battery, and solder a wire from there to a point connected to the other end of the black wire. You still need to perform the swap with either a helper battery or with the game running, but you don't have to worry about the stupid black wire anymore - you can just remove it. Just DON'T get rid of the black wire until you have a new one soldered in. I tried it on a New Generation I had, and it worked fine.
 

massimiliano

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Scott said:
\If you have a multimeter, just find another spot connected to the negative terminal of the battery, and solder a wire from there to a point connected to the other end of the black wire. You still need to perform the swap with either a helper battery or with the game running, but you don't have to worry about the stupid black wire anymore - you can just remove it. Just DON'T get rid of the black wire until you have a new one soldered in. I tried it on a New Generation I had, and it worked fine.

Good this is good to take care of that damn black wire!
Great, so with a game running and a UPS, you can avoid the risk of leave the cart without power!

It seems to me more reliable than place a second battery and then swap.

Do someone think it's more risky proceed that way?
 

Scott

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massimiliano said:
Good this is good to take care of that damn black wire!
Great, so with a game running and a UPS, you can avoid the risk of leave the cart without power!

It seems to me more reliable than place a second battery and then swap.

Do someone think it's more risky proceed that way?
I've never used the helper battery method - I always swapped it with the power on. However, make absolutely sure that you have the new wire in the proper place before removing the old battery/black wire. If you have the wrong connections, your game is dead, even with the power on. Also, I've only rerouted the wire on my NG once. You may wanna double check with Bill, as he's moved the wire on a few carts. I'll tell you what though...I tried to change the battery on a Warzard once. I didn't know you could move the wire, and obviously I couldn't unsolder the negative side of the old battery without likewise disconnecting the wire. Instead, I tried cutting the battery lead with a dremel. BIG MISTAKE! I slipped up and cut into the damn battery, and all the acid leaked into my freakin' face. You do not want this to happen to you!!!!!!
 

massimiliano

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Change!!! Getter!!

Ok,

I decided to proceed, and today I did the battery change on 4 CPS3, 2 of them with the infamous black wire.

Thanks to Razoola for the guide and MKL for his posts about the possible ground spot for the second "black wire".
So I tried this "hybrid" mode (and btw this was my first attempt ever!)
A note: as I asked about the running-game method, I must admit that I finally choose to proceed with the helper battery one just for one reason: I don't think it's easy to work around the cart while mounted, IMHO.

Here some pic of the journey, maybe this will help people as the spirit of the thread, - hope I'm not hijacking anything :P

Probably the worst part, unscrew the bolt without the proper tool!

opening.jpg


Here the helper battery, I soldered extension cables and protected the joint/copper connectors with thermo-sheath (nice trick!)

helper.jpg


The second "black wire", following the ground spots advised by MKL:

trio.jpg


Here a detail of the common ground for both battery&black wire n.2:

detail.jpg


JoJo and 3dStrike were easier indeeds:

classic.jpg


After some CPS2 swap too, here the result of the day:

family.jpg


not without some surprise, still functional of course!

incredible.jpg


Thanks again as for at least 6 years I will not worry about my precious CPS3s!!!

(^_^)
 
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