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Thread: 4-slot PCB interconnections pinout (a contribution to the crosshatch problem)

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    4-slot PCB interconnections pinout (a contribution to the crosshatch problem)

    I've recently won a 4-slot on ebay that was stuck into hardware test (aka crosshatch screen). While searching for threads on this topic in the tech forum archives I've noticed that the problem seems to affect 4-slots more than other motherboards and in particular the older version of the 4-slot, the one with four 64-pin connectors holding the bottom and top PCBs together (the newer version only has three of these connectors). This recent thread and my own experience led me to the conclusion that one of the causes (perhaps the most typical one?) is trace corrosion due to battery leakage. As you can see in this picture, the backup battery (here removed) is located too close to the traces that go to CN10 (one of the four PCB interconnections). You can even see that the green coating on some traces is partly off. In my case the trace going from pin B7 of CN10 to pin 16 of a nearby IC was totally eaten up by corrosion. After soldering a wire between the two points I had a fully working 4-slot:

    http://img473.imageshack.us/img473/161/cn10fixed2pp.jpg

    In the other thread linked above the problem was another of the traces more exposed to a possible battery leakage. So in case you have an older 4-slot with a crosshatch screen problem that is not fixed by simply reseating the top PCB, cleaning the connectors or setting DIP switch 1 off, the next thing you may want to do is check the connections of CN10. To make things easier for you I've written down where all the traces go from the 4 PCB interconnections (not only CN10 but also CN8, CN9 and CN11) to the various components on the bottom board. The components are assigned number and letter coordinates found on the actual PCB. For instance:

    CN10

    A5 B7 (2)

    is meant to be read as pin A5 of CN10 is connected to pin 2 of the component (a 74AS245) located at B7.




    CN10


    A1 +5V
    A2 +5V
    A3 +5V
    A4 +5V
    A5 B7 (2)
    A6 B7 (3)
    A7 B7 (4)
    A8 B7 (5)
    A9 B7 (6)
    A10 B7 (7)
    A11 B7 (8)
    A12 B7 (9)
    A13 B8 (2)
    A14 B8 (3)
    A15 B8 (4)
    A16 B8 (5)
    A17 B8 (6)
    A18 B8 (7)
    A19 B8 (8)
    A20 B8 (9)
    A21 B8 (1), C11 (3)
    A22 C11 (5)
    A23 C11 (7)
    A24 C11 (9)
    A25 C11 (12)
    A26 C11 (14)
    A27 C11 (16)
    A28 C11 (18)
    A29 GND
    A30 GND
    A31 GND
    A32 GND


    B1 +5V
    B2 +5V
    B3 +5V
    B4 +5V
    B5 B9 (18)
    B6 B9 (3)
    B7 B9 (16)
    B8 B9 (5)
    B9 B9 (14)
    B10 B9 (7)
    B11 B9 (12)
    B12 B9 (9)
    B13 B10 (18)
    B14 B10 (3)
    B15 B10 (16)
    B16 B10 (5)
    B17 B10 (14)
    B18 B10 (7)
    B19 B10 (12)
    B20 B10 (9)
    B21 B11 (18)
    B22 B11 (3)
    B23 B11 (16)
    B24 B11 (5)
    B25 PRO-C0 (72)
    B26 PRO-C0 (74)
    B27 PRO-C0 (75)
    B28 PRO-C0 (73)
    B29 GND
    B30 GND
    B31 GND
    B32 GND


    The ICs:

    B7 = 74AS245
    B8 = 74AS245
    B9 = 74HC244
    B10 = 74HC244
    B11 = 74AS244
    C11 = 74AS244

    ------------------------------

    CN8

    A1 +5V
    A2 +5V
    A3 +5V
    A4 SC2 (15), PRO-CT0 (15)
    A5 SC2 (13), PRO-CT0 (16)
    A6 SC2 (10), PRO-CT0 (21)
    A7 SC2 (8), PRO-CT0 (22)
    A8 SC2 (6), PRO-CT0 (23)
    A9 SC2 (4), PRO-CT0 (24)
    A10 NOT CONNECTED
    A11 R2 (1), R3 (3)
    A12 NOT CONNECTED
    A13 NOT CONNECTED
    A14 P1 (9)
    A15 P1 (12)
    A16 P1 (7)
    A17 P1 (14)
    A18 P1 (5)
    A19 P1 (16)
    A20 P1 (3)
    A21 P1 (18)
    A22 R1 (9)
    A23 R1 (12)
    A24 R1 (7)
    A25 R1 (14)
    A26 R1 (5)
    A27 R1 (16)
    A28 R1 (3)
    A29 R1 (18)
    A30 GND
    A31 GND
    A32 GND

    B1 +5V
    B2 +5V
    B3 +5V
    B4 SC2 (14), PRO-CT0 (19)
    B5 SC2 (12), PRO-CT0 (20)
    B6 SC2 (9), PRO-CT0 (25)
    B7 SC2 (7), PRO-CT0 (26)
    B8 SC2 (5), PRO-CT0 (27)
    B9 SC2 (3), PRO-CT0 (28)
    B10 SFIX (13)
    B11 SFIX (14)
    B12 SFIX (15)
    B13 SFIX (17)
    B14 SFIX (18)
    B15 SFIX (19)
    B16 SFIX (20)
    B17 SFIX (21)
    B18 R3 (12)
    B19 R3 (14)
    B20 R3 (16)
    B21 R3 (18)
    B22 R2 (11)
    B23 R2 (12)
    B24 R2 (13)
    B25 R2 (14)
    B26 R2 (15)
    B27 R2 (16)
    B28 R2 (17)
    B29 R2 (18)
    B30 GND
    B31 GND
    B32 GND


    The ICs:

    P1 = 74AS244
    R1 = 74AS244
    R2 = 74AS245
    R3 = 74AS244


    ------------------------------

    CN9

    A1 +5V
    A2 +5V
    A3 +5V
    A4 R11 (9)
    A5 R11 (12)
    A6 R11 (7)
    A7 R11 (14)
    A8 R11 (5)
    A9 R11 (16)
    A10 R11 (3)
    A11 R11 (18)
    A12 R10 (9)
    A13 R10 (12)
    A14 R10 (7)
    A15 R10 (14)
    A16 R10 (5)
    A17 R10 (16)
    A18 R10 (3)
    A19 R10 (18)
    A20 SC1 (19), PRO-CT0 (59)
    A21 SC1 (17), PRO-CT0 (60)
    A22 SC1 (15), PRO-CT0 (61)
    A23 SC1 (13), PRO-CT0 (62)
    A24 SC1 (10), PRO-CT0 (5)
    A25 SC1 (8), PRO-CT0 (6)
    A26 SC1 (6), PRO-CT0 (7)
    A27 SC1 (4), PRO-CT0 (8)
    A28 SC2 (19), PRO-CT0 (13)
    A29 SC2 (17), PRO-CT0 (14)
    A30 GND
    A31 GND
    A32 GND

    B1 +5V
    B2 +5V
    B3 +5V
    B4 P11 (9)
    B5 P11 (12)
    B6 P11 (7)
    B7 P11 (14)
    B8 P11 (5)
    B9 P11 (16)
    B10 P11 (3)
    B11 P11 (18)
    B12 P10 (9)
    B13 P10 (12)
    B14 P10 (7)
    B15 P10 (14)
    B16 P10 (5)
    B17 P10 (16)
    B18 P10 (3)
    B19 P10 (18)
    B20 SC1 (18), PRO-CT0 (1)
    B21 SC1 (16), PRO-CT0 (2)
    B22 SC1 (14), PRO-CT0 (3)
    B23 SC1 (12), PRO-CT0 (4)
    B24 SC1 (9), PRO-CT0 (9)
    B25 SC1 (7), PRO-CT0 (10)
    B26 SC1 (5), PRO-CT0 (11)
    B27 SC1 (3), PRO-CT0 (12)
    B28 SC2 (18), PRO-CT0 (17)
    B29 SC2 (16), PRO-CT0 (18)
    B30 GND
    B31 GND
    B32 GND

    The ICs:

    R10 = 74LS244
    R11 = 74LS244
    P10 = 74LS244
    P11 = 74LS244


    ------------------------------

    CN11

    A1 +5V
    A2 +5V
    A3 +5V
    A4 +5V
    A5 F2 (14)
    A6 F2 (12)
    A7 F2 (9)
    A8 F2 (7)
    A9 F2 (3)
    A10 F2 (5)
    A11 G2 (5)
    A12 G2 (16)
    A13 G2 (9)
    A14 G2 (12)
    A15 G2 (7)
    A16 G2 (14)
    A17 G2 (18)
    A18 G2 (3)
    A19 F2 (16)
    A20 NOT CONNECTED
    A21 B11 (14)
    A22 G10 (13)
    A23 NOT CONNECTED
    A24 NOT CONNECTED
    A25 NOT CONNECTED
    A26 NOT CONNECTED
    A27 NOT CONNECTED
    A28 NOT CONNECTED
    A29 GND
    A30 GND
    A31 GND
    A32 GND

    B1 +5V
    B2 +5V
    B3 +5V
    B4 +5V
    B5 F1 (9)
    B6 F1 (8)
    B7 F1 (7)
    B8 F1 (6)
    B9 F1 (5)
    B10 F1 (4)
    B11 F1 (3)
    B12 F1 (2)
    B13 G1 (9)
    B14 G1 (8)
    B15 G1 (7)
    B16 G1 (6)
    B17 G1 (5)
    B18 G1 (4)
    B19 G1 (3)
    B20 G1 (2)
    B21 B11 (7)
    B22 B11 (12)
    B23 B11 (9)
    B24 NOT CONNECTED
    B25 NOT CONNECTED
    B26 NOT CONNECTED
    B27 NOT CONNECTED
    B28 NOT CONNECTED
    B29 GND
    B30 GND
    B31 GND
    B32 GND


    The ICs:

    B11 = 74AS244
    F1 = 74LS245
    F2 = 74LS244
    G1 = 74LS245
    G2 = 74LS244
    G10 = LS138


    ------------------------------
    Last edited by MKL; 11-02-2005 at 12:04 PM.

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    Great info as always MKL!

    Jeff

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    Sweet deal MKL. Thanks for the useful tips.

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  4. #4
    Divine Hand of the UniBIOS
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    Another great thread that must never be lost.

    Raz
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  5. #5
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    Here's a picture of my fix for reference (too bad I suck at soldering. But hey, it works. The other end of the wire is just stripped down to a single thread of the threaded wire and pushed through the pcb):

    I turned off signatures. So should you.

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    Also, as you can see, I moved the battery up with some spare wire. It's just sort of sitting there, propped up by the metal (and not touching the board).
    I turned off signatures. So should you.

  7. #7
    Chang's Combo Meal #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpamYouToDeath
    Here's a picture of my fix for reference (too bad I suck at soldering. But hey, it works. The other end of the wire is just stripped down to a single thread of the threaded wire and pushed through the pcb)
    I see, soldering to those vias would be a pain. I would solder directly to the IC leg for a more reliable job though.

    Quote Originally Posted by SpamYouToDeath
    Also, as you can see, I moved the battery up with some spare wire. It's just sort of sitting there, propped up by the metal (and not touching the board).
    Does the battery still work? In my case the voltage had dropped down from 3.6v to about 1v so I'm going to replace it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MKL
    I see, soldering to those vias would be a pain. I would solder directly to the IC leg for a more reliable job though.
    Yeah, well... when it breaks (again), I'll fix it.


    Quote Originally Posted by MKL
    Does the battery still work? In my case the voltage had dropped down from 3.6v to about 1v so I'm going to replace it.
    Actually... I think it's kaputt. Lemme check.

    *5 minutes later*

    Yeah, it holds a voltage for about 30 seconds before dropping down to like 0.05v.
    I turned off signatures. So should you.

  9. #9
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    Hi. I'm trying to do this fix to help out a friend with his 4-slot, but have had some complications. His battery looks like it broke three traces. I found what pins those traces went to by using my continuity test on my multimeter, and found that the traces went to A5, B5, and B6 on the C10 connector. I soldered A5 to pin 2 at the B7 chip, B5 to pin 18 at B9, and B6 to pin 3 at B9. Now, after I did all that, we put it back together (I put in the bios from my one slot in there because my friend left the 4slot english bios at home), and tested it out. all I got was a bouncing screen with grsphic errors. So, I then removed the bios, and got the same thing. I tried it with a cart, and without before I removed the bios as well, and got the same thing (I don't think it's reading from the bios at all). So, then I resumed to double check all my solderpoints, make absolutelly sure that they're where they're supposed to be an that they aren't bridging over to one another (they look fine, and are not touching). So, then I pulled out my multimeter again, and tested from the pins at C10 to the legs of the chips that they are supposed to be soldered to, and all circuits are fine there, but I noticed that pins 3 and 18 at B9 are connected, and are making conatact somewhere. I checked my soldering again, and couldn't see anything that would cause this. Are these pins supposed to be directly connected? Please help me figure out what to do next to fix this board. all my soldering seems to be alright (good connection/ not splashing).

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    Quote Originally Posted by stuffmonger
    I noticed that pins 3 and 18 at B9 are connected, and are making conatact somewhere. I checked my soldering again, and couldn't see anything that would cause this. Are these pins supposed to be directly connected?
    No, pins 3 and 18 shouldn't be connected together (they're different outputs of the 74HC244). I suggest you to cut the traces (with a stanley knife or some other sharp blade) just before they reach the legs of the chip, in the points marked here:

    http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4...fmonger8xj.jpg
    (the arrow is B5)

    After making sure the traces are actually cut (no continuity between B5/18 and B6/3) check continuity between pins 3 and 8 (if still connected the chip is bad and needs to be replaced) and B5 and B6 (if connected the short could be right under the connector, difficult to inspect).

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    Quote Originally Posted by MKL
    No, pins 3 and 18 shouldn't be connected together (they're different outputs of the 74HC244). I suggest you to cut the traces (with a stanley knife or some other sharp blade) just before they reach the legs of the chip, in the points marked here:

    http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4...fmonger8xj.jpg
    (the arrow is B5)

    After making sure the traces are actually cut (no continuity between B5/18 and B6/3) check continuity between pins 3 and 8 (if still connected the chip is bad and needs to be replaced) and B5 and B6 (if connected the short could be right under the connector, difficult to inspect).
    wait a minute... the traces you labelled... it looks like you said the traces that go to pins 3 and 13, not 18. I cut the trace before pin 3, and I no longer get a continuity read from the two pins... w00t, and it gets a little further in the startup process, but it still only gets as far as the infamous green screen Also, it won't go into the settings menu when I set dip1, so, I still think that it's not reading the bios :[... I have also noticed that pin 14 on the bios chip gets a continuity reading from pin 18 of b9 whereas the other two fixes don't get any continuity on the bios at all. pins 3 and 8 do not get a continuity reading, so that's a good sign I guess.

    btw... will the board function without the calendar battery? (I resoldered it off the board a little, but I'm just wondering.

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    Quote Originally Posted by soulthug
    Thats ahem, peach yogurt i swear!

  12. #12
    Chang's Combo Meal #4
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    On integrated circuits the pins are customarily numbered in an anticlockwise way, starting from the pin closest to the notch, as shown in this pic:



    Therefore, if you look at my last pic (solder side), the numbering of chip B9 is this:

    Code:
    20	1
    19	2
    18	3
    17	4
    16	5
    15	6
    14	7
    13	8
    12	9
    11	10
    Pin 14 of the bios is connected to pin 13 (not 18!) of the chip located at B7 (AS245), not B9.

    Please check again paying attention to the pin numbering.

    Calendar battery? You mean the 3.6v backup battery? (It's the only battery on the board...). Yes, the board is supposed to work fine without it.
    Last edited by MKL; 11-01-2005 at 05:29 PM.

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    I just want to point out the if a board reaches the crosshatch that it has already completed the memory tests. At this point your board is locking up in the memory test, from what you say I think its related to the calander.

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    all right... I re-did the solder points to the ones indicated... now I get no continuity readings on the bios from any of the three fixes... I now get further than the green screen, but am now stuck once again in the test hatch screen >: (

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    Quote Originally Posted by soulthug
    Thats ahem, peach yogurt i swear!

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    if it's possible, use UniBios's memory viewer and post 000100 like I did. If not, well, double check everything.
    I turned off signatures. So should you.

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    I would, except I don't have a unibios, and my current eprom programmer doesn't support the 27c1024's

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    Quote Originally Posted by soulthug
    Thats ahem, peach yogurt i swear!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuffmonger
    all right... I re-did the solder points to the ones indicated... now I get no continuity readings on the bios from any of the three fixes... I now get further than the green screen, but am now stuck once again in the test hatch screen >: (
    So B5 and B6 on CN10 are now connected to pins 18 and 3 on B9 and there's no continuity between them. What's the third fix you mention? Did you check all the other connections of CN10?

  18. #18
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    the other fix I did was at A5 to pin 2 at B7... no, I havn't checked the continuity of all the pins at cn10, but they look visually alright... I guess I'll check them now...

    edit: from pin B25, I get continuity from pin 72 of the pro-co (4th pin from the right on the upper side)
    B26, I read at pin 74 of the pro-co
    B27 at 75
    B28 at 73

    Am I reading the board wrong, that the pins go

    < -- ^
    v......l
    ~ --> ?
    Last edited by stuffmonger; 11-02-2005 at 10:17 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by soulthug
    Thats ahem, peach yogurt i swear!

  19. #19
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    You're right, I've edited the pinout.

  20. #20
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    THANK YOU!!! THANK YOU!!!

    I just fixed my new 4 slot with your info.

    Mine had 2 traces that were messed up.

    A5 B7 (2) Just like yours

    and

    B5 B9 (18)

    Those are right next to each other on the CN10 connector.


    Thanks so much cause i could'nt find any info on the hatch/hardware test screen fix anywhere!

    MAKE THIS THREAD A STICKY!

    I asked for help and no one else knew anything to help.. No one knows about this thread. Thank god i found it!

  21. #21
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    I also won a 4 slot on ebay and was said to be in working condition but come to find that each slot went straight to the crosshatch of death!

    It took me a while to find this post but WOW thanks, This also helped me out as well. B5 B9 (18) were not linking on my 4 slot. Lots of practice solders before I attempted anything on my board but I got it to work, So happy to hear the coin insert soundFX when I turned it on.

    I also have a 2 slot that goes to the crosshatch, is their a pin diagram for that?

    How do you fix this?
    http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1167/img5257z.jpg

    And this?
    http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/5622/img5261f.jpg

    Thanks MKL!

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    I just wanted to post a bump of appreciation for this topic. It greatly helped in my repair of my 4-slot. Thanks!

    My MVS already had a couple of bad traces in the CN10 area repaired with jumper wires by the previous owner, but another bad one developed over the past few months. The new one was A6 B7 (3) on the motherboard. Luckily, I didn't have to work with the cart slot daughterboard at all.

    I suspect all of the traces that were repaired by myself or the previous owner were all necessitated by bad vias. The battery was already replaced with a CR2032 and had that resistor cut out, and the board doesn't look like it was ever damaged by battery leakage. I think the PCB was just spotty to begin with, and it's probably going to continue to get even spottier until I have a rat's nest of jumper wires fixing it up by the time I'm old and gray. It's worth it, though.

    I was getting the occasional crosshatch of death upon receiving it last February. However, I thought it was normal due to poor cart placement or whatnot. It always cleared up if I simply removed and reinserted my carts. However, it wouldn't do anything but crosshatch by mid-May, I think. In fact, I was sick and didn't play my MVS for a week, and the problem developed into a more permanent state sometime while I wasn't playing it. I just turned it on a week later, and it only went to crosshatch.

    Since repairing it this morning, I haven't gotten any strange crosshatches, but I haven't done a lot of game swapping yet. Still, everything worked perfectly the first time since doing my repair.

    (I didn't take repairing it seriously until today because I was playing other games and doing other stuff in my free time, but I did miss my Neo Geo!)

  23. #23
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    I just figured I should add that over the past couple days, I have done some cart swapping. Not a whole lot, but some. The really cool thing is that I have absolutely no problems getting games to run. Everything fully works the very first time. It's amazing. Doing this trace fix seems to have fixed problems that I didn't even realize I had.

  24. #24
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    What connector affects graphics? I just got mine to boot, had 2 bad traces from CN10 on the top board. Now I get corrupt graphics, fix layer is fine so it's just C rom data.

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