TMNT issues in MVS cab + making mvs adapter (SOLVED!!!)
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xiao_haozi
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Alright just wanted to post back a quick update and add another question on the fire.
Bought some fingerboards and connectors from bob roberts and have been wiring it up tonight without much trouble (just slowly).
One thing I was a little unsure about was with regards to a few pinouts from hardmvs list:
here in html
A shot of what I have going so far.... here
Can anyone verify these things:
1) I do Jamma Speaker Neg (L) to an MVS ground.
2) Audio Ground Jamma (M) to an MVS ground.
3) Speaker Pos Jamma (10) to Speaker Pos Left (L MVS) and Speaker Pos Right (10 MVS).
4) Jamma Audio Pos (11) to MVS Audio Pos(mono) (11).
I guess this is the meat of the adapter...and this is where I'm not 100% clear of my above logic is correct.
Bought some fingerboards and connectors from bob roberts and have been wiring it up tonight without much trouble (just slowly).
One thing I was a little unsure about was with regards to a few pinouts from hardmvs list:
here in html
A shot of what I have going so far.... here
Can anyone verify these things:
1) I do Jamma Speaker Neg (L) to an MVS ground.
2) Audio Ground Jamma (M) to an MVS ground.
3) Speaker Pos Jamma (10) to Speaker Pos Left (L MVS) and Speaker Pos Right (10 MVS).
4) Jamma Audio Pos (11) to MVS Audio Pos(mono) (11).
I guess this is the meat of the adapter...and this is where I'm not 100% clear of my above logic is correct.
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xiao_haozi
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well JAMMA to MVS. Basically just making my own version of what I bought that didn't seem to work out. So I have the connector to the PCB and the edge of the fingerboard to the MVS harness.
xiao_haozi
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Alright.... after some more reading i think I have figured out a bit more.
Seems like M and 11 on jamma are pre amp out and are almost never used... So I can just ignore those in making the adapter.
L (Speaker - ) and 10 (Speaker +) on the jamma side are for mono post-amp output ready to go right to a speaker.
However, MVS is :
speaker left L 10 speaker right
test switch M 11 audio + (mono)
I have rerouted the test switch correctly....but now my question remains what to do with the L and 10 from JAMMA to the MVS side. I assume the MVS audio (on 11) is for preamp while the speaker left and right are post amp. Should I just ground the JAMMA L pin to an MVS ground that tne JAMMA 10 pin (+) to either the speaker left or right (or both I guess) and leave MVS 11 pin (audio mono) unconnected....or is that going to kill things?
Seems like M and 11 on jamma are pre amp out and are almost never used... So I can just ignore those in making the adapter.
L (Speaker - ) and 10 (Speaker +) on the jamma side are for mono post-amp output ready to go right to a speaker.
However, MVS is :
speaker left L 10 speaker right
test switch M 11 audio + (mono)
I have rerouted the test switch correctly....but now my question remains what to do with the L and 10 from JAMMA to the MVS side. I assume the MVS audio (on 11) is for preamp while the speaker left and right are post amp. Should I just ground the JAMMA L pin to an MVS ground that tne JAMMA 10 pin (+) to either the speaker left or right (or both I guess) and leave MVS 11 pin (audio mono) unconnected....or is that going to kill things?
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Fuck an adapter...
You are better off just switching the speaker wiring each time.
Open up the top
Pop the grounds off both -terminals,
Take the wire off the + terminal of the Left Speaker and put it on the Negative terminal of the right speaker.
Easy... If that is too much work for you to do each time, Put in a stereo switch (search the forums).
You are better off just switching the speaker wiring each time.
Open up the top
Pop the grounds off both -terminals,
Take the wire off the + terminal of the Left Speaker and put it on the Negative terminal of the right speaker.
Easy... If that is too much work for you to do each time, Put in a stereo switch (search the forums).
xiao_haozi
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Yeah you know I got half of this adapter made last night and realized that the only thing you need to switch is the test (which really not a big deal) and then the audio.
I'll give your method a try tonight for giggles, and might just keep at the adapter though at this point since it is now 2/3 done anyway.
If anyone has some info on doing those pinouts though I would be still interested mainly since I've been at it for a little bit...just want to finalize this in my head.
I'll give your method a try tonight for giggles, and might just keep at the adapter though at this point since it is now 2/3 done anyway.
If anyone has some info on doing those pinouts though I would be still interested mainly since I've been at it for a little bit...just want to finalize this in my head.
xiao_haozi
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Is there an easy way to do this at my custom adapter...rather than wiring it up into the cab...just have this switching done already in my adapter that I'm making...for some reason (well really because I'm an idiot) I can't figure out the easiest way to do this. Like just crossing the pins maybe to make faux stereo out of the jamma pins on the adapter?
Edit: Based on this forum post can't I just do the mono to faux stereo through the pin conversions on the adapter?
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That's what I was going to say. MVS and Jamma are so close, why bother? I would try just hooking it straight up without even fixing the speaker wires first.
xiao_haozi
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Alright. Yeah my only concern was that I would see scattered posts here and there about doing it as such would result in blowing the amp on the pcb.
[This is a 4slot so I know it is stereo for sure.] I'll give it a whirl this afternoon and see if that helps.
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xiao_haozi
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Okay UPDATE:
I connected a pcb straight to mvs harness and same issue....no CP function at all.
Turned off and then took out the multimeter and tested from the wire side of the mvs edge to the pcb to make sure all the pins were touching correctly. Everything had an unimpeded signal.
The only thing I noticed was that my MVS harness is missing pin 4 (+5V) but has it on 3,C,D . Doesn't seem to have any issues with the mvs mobo but would this be causing my CP issues with the PCBs? If not what could it be at this point? It's obviously now something cab related that ONLY shows up with PCBs and NOT with an MVS mobo.
I connected a pcb straight to mvs harness and same issue....no CP function at all.
Turned off and then took out the multimeter and tested from the wire side of the mvs edge to the pcb to make sure all the pins were touching correctly. Everything had an unimpeded signal.
The only thing I noticed was that my MVS harness is missing pin 4 (+5V) but has it on 3,C,D . Doesn't seem to have any issues with the mvs mobo but would this be causing my CP issues with the PCBs? If not what could it be at this point? It's obviously now something cab related that ONLY shows up with PCBs and NOT with an MVS mobo.
xiao_haozi
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Yeah I tried straight through and the heatsink right near the volume pot was hot as HELL after just a minute.
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Yup... because the audio pins are wired for MVS and not JAMMA. You are going to damage the audio amp chip on that board doing that.
xiao_haozi
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What if I don't connect the audio fromthe jamma at all? Finished my homemade adapter but I haven't wired up any audio between each edge. So will this hurt things not having it connected (for now to try to troubleshoot)?
[EDIT]:
Okay so I have bridged that missing +5V (pin 4) to the other side +5V to make sure that isn't the problem. This is on my homemade adapter now where only the test switch is swapped over to where it needs to be...everything else is straight through. And still no go...I don't get credit lights on the CP either.
As for the audio....I have left it unconnected to the MVS side of the fingerboard and doing this of course I don't get any audio but I also don't seem to be heating up that heatsink like before with it straight to the MVS harness.
Any other ideas what I can check?
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xiao_haozi
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Yeah I'm at a loss for ideas at this point. I've checked connections to the pcb from the harness and everything seems perfect.
Thoroughly confused.
My PCBs are getting lonely
Thoroughly confused.
My PCBs are getting lonely
Hewitson
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Yeah, why bother worrying about connecting an amplifier output to a speakers negative terminal.
xiao_haozi
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Yeah well for the time being I have left any audio unbridged on my homemade adapter just to save the onboard amp while testing.
But if that was all that I had to take care of now, I would be plenty happy with that.
xiao_haozi
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Okay guys.... update. Got them all working.
I am almost too embarrassed to list the solution here
... but I figured that there might be a chance, just a chance, that someone else is close to my level of idiocy and runs into the same problem .
First, to restate the problem:
Video+Audio-controls (i.e. no buttons work from CP) == perfect on all boards
Video+Audio+controls (2nd player only) == TMNT
The embarrassing step I was missing:
Dropping in a quarter or popping the coin slot manually. Then they all work. UGH
.
In short, I will say thank you for all the posts you guys have left trying to help me out with this and your suggestions have gone into my vault of Cab troubleshooting.
On a side note, I found out from talking to artoffighting that the TMNT boards apparently (maybe not all, but seems to be for mine) that with how the players are setup my 1P controls not working were making sense due to how he explained the working of the 4P setup on those guys. I forget what the details were but if anyone needs them I can find out again and post back here. Also, down the road plan to make a small adapter for that board with 2 15 din dongles to plug in 2 sticks to play 4P konami. When I do this I will post back as well for anyone interested, else if anyone has done this feel free to let me know how
.
I am almost too embarrassed to list the solution here
... but I figured that there might be a chance, just a chance, that someone else is close to my level of idiocy and runs into the same problem .First, to restate the problem:
Video+Audio-controls (i.e. no buttons work from CP) == perfect on all boards
Video+Audio+controls (2nd player only) == TMNT
The embarrassing step I was missing:
Dropping in a quarter or popping the coin slot manually. Then they all work. UGH
.In short, I will say thank you for all the posts you guys have left trying to help me out with this and your suggestions have gone into my vault of Cab troubleshooting.
On a side note, I found out from talking to artoffighting that the TMNT boards apparently (maybe not all, but seems to be for mine) that with how the players are setup my 1P controls not working were making sense due to how he explained the working of the 4P setup on those guys. I forget what the details were but if anyone needs them I can find out again and post back here. Also, down the road plan to make a small adapter for that board with 2 15 din dongles to plug in 2 sticks to play 4P konami. When I do this I will post back as well for anyone interested, else if anyone has done this feel free to let me know how
.
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xiao_haozi
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After seeing this pic I thought there was a short in the soldering.
Yeah that thing isn't exactly pretty... but it's 100%. I was sure everything was checked for continuity several times over and each wire that was added was then checked for shorting to all others. Don't hate on my adapter dude
hahaha
xiao_haozi
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I don't remembered what happened there. I think that was one of the times i grabbed the wrong end of the iron and threw it down. Absent minded I am.
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I don't think that's right.