MVS Component Level Repairs

channelmaniac

channelmaniac

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totoroslayer said:
Do you know if the edge connectors (slots for the cartridges) are a standard/easy to get part? I've got a couple of slots on my 4 slot that need some jiggling and coaxing to get to work (or it my just be my carts).
Click to expand...

I have yet to find a source for them.

totoroslayer said:
If I can't get new ones, is there any way to bend the pins back to make better contact?
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Most likely they just need a good cleaning. The http://www.hardmvs.com site has a good writeup on that. Bent pins are pretty rare unless someone really REALLY tried hard to jam a cart in.

totoroslayer said:
Also, what's the deal with the batteries? What do they keep track of? How long do they last? And which different models use which different batteries?
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The batteries like to leak after many years on the board. When this happens traces get eaten and boards stop working.

How long they last is a crapshoot. You have to carefully look at the pins for green or blue corrosion and you have to check around the battery for an oily looking residue. This stuff eats traces on the board like candy.

As for the different types, there are 3 that I've seen. The bulgy stacked cells that mount sideways on the board (typical for older 1 slot and single board 2 slot), the stacked quarters looking pack that is on the 2/4/6 slot 2-board systems, and the single coin cell type that is on the newer 1 slot boards.

RJ
 
68k

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Shoot me a PM when you are ready for my 4-slot :).
 
bdlou

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I also have a 4-slot in need of some work. The sound on the left side is lower than the sound on the right (it's not the speakers. I swapped them to confirm.) I believe I saw channel post in another thread that there were only like 20 something caps to replace that could fix that. :eek: I also need a battery placed on mine. Drop me a line and let me know what it'd take to get all that done. Thanks!
 
FalcomAdol

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channelmaniac said:
The batteries like to leak after many years on the board. When this happens traces get eaten and boards stop working.

How long they last is a crapshoot. You have to carefully look at the pins for green or blue corrosion and you have to check around the battery for an oily looking residue. This stuff eats traces on the board like candy.
Click to expand...
Do you have any suggestions for preventing that? I have a single board 2-slot that seems to be healthy to date and I'd like to avoid the inevitable if possible.
 
channelmaniac

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The only suggestion is to either remove or replace the battery.

As for the audio issue... I'm rebuilding my jamma test rig so I can better test the controls and audio. Yes, shotgunning the caps is the easy way to fix it.

68k - I have 3 boards here to look at for folks and will be going through 1 6-slot, 3 4-slot, and 1 2-slot boards I repaired for final testing before I sell 'em on the board here. I had to find a source for the crazy standoffs and feet so I could sell the boards with the proper hardware.

RJ
 
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If I removed the battery and just jumpered the connection, would the board still work, just without memory functions, or would it break?
 
68k

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channelmaniac said:
The only suggestion is to either remove or replace the battery.

As for the audio issue... I'm rebuilding my jamma test rig so I can better test the controls and audio. Yes, shotgunning the caps is the easy way to fix it.

68k - I have 3 boards here to look at for folks and will be going through 1 6-slot, 3 4-slot, and 1 2-slot boards I repaired for final testing before I sell 'em on the board here. I had to find a source for the crazy standoffs and feet so I could sell the boards with the proper hardware.

RJ
Click to expand...

Cool, just keep me informed. The board is boxed up and ready to roll out.
 
channelmaniac

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FalcomAdol said:
If I removed the battery and just jumpered the connection, would the board still work, just without memory functions, or would it break?
Click to expand...

Jumpered what connection? The battery? That would be bad. Just remove the battery. You won't have a working clock/calendar or memory settings as those are kept active by the battery.

RJ
 
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channelmaniac said:
Jumpered what connection? The battery? That would be bad. Just remove the battery. You won't have a working clock/calendar or memory settings as those are kept active by the battery.

RJ
Click to expand...
Ah, ok, so you just snip the battery off the board. I won't do it unless I see that the battery is weeping anyway. So far so good.

Sorry to threadjack :D
 
68k

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This is an amazing service. Im looking forward to seeing my 4-slot work properly.
 
H

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How about mvs cart repairs? Any way to test and see whats wrong with them?

I have a minty looking strikers 1945 plus that I'd love to play, but it displays the cross hatch screen.
 
channelmaniac

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Sorry. I don't have an EPROM programmer that would burn the 16 bit EPROMs.

If it only gives a crosshatch I'd say that one of the program ROMs on the front board is bad.

RJ
 
channelmaniac

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Yes, but you also have to purchase the 16 bit EPROM adapter.

All in all, unless it's a high dollar cart it just won't be worth the expense to fix.
 
H

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Strikers 1945 plus is up there as far as mvs prices go, so it may be worth it depending on the adapter cost. I opened the cart for the first time today and it looks perfect inside, just like new. I then cleaned the contacts again and now when I put it in it's like continually rebooting itself. It does display some colored blocks on the monitor in random patterns while doing this, and the cross hatch is gone now.
 
channelmaniac

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If you have a UniBIOS chip in your system try looking at the checksums to see which ROM is borked.
 
TheOmen

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We have a BGA rework station, SMD rework station, Xray, solder wave machines... Just about everything you need for repair. (Yeah, I work in an electronics plant) We even do RoHS (no-lead) compliant work.

If anyone needs this type of work done, let me know.

Channelmaniac, I may be able to get you a good price an a used SMD-500 Chipper rework station. It's a hot air type, adjustable flow and temp. Suction cup in the hot air nozzle.
 
channelmaniac

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Why don't you start your own thread instead of hijacking mine?

I already have a Pace MBT-250 system almost fully loaded. I can do everything except BGA in both hot air and hot iron and have no desire to mess with BGA. My target audience is old school games, not PS/Xbox gaming.

RJ
 
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