MVS 4 slot NO SOUND

Ruell · Apr 10, 2006

Me and my bro bought a MVS 4-25 v3 cab at the superauction the 1st of the month. However, the sound doesn't work at all. Not through the speakers and not even through the headphone ports. Everything else seems to be ok on it. All the slots work and they play great. does anyone have an idea of where I should start doing to fix it?

Here's a pic from hardmvs that is the type that was in it.

eccs19 · Apr 10, 2006

This might sound stupid, but how long did you play it? When I got mine, it seemed as if the sound wasn't working, but after playing it for a while, the sound gradually got louder and louder. Mine's still not 100%, as the sound only comes out of the right speaker, but it's better than nothing. I opened mine up to have a look, and the volume slider for the speakers was corroded. I used contact cleaner to clean it, but still only sound in 1 channel. If no sound after a bit of playing, then I would check for corrosion on the volume slider. Anyone know if that slider can be replaced, and where would one get a replacement?

Ruell · Apr 10, 2006

Sorry none of the sliders are corroded. I haven't taken the boards apart yet though. I'll check to see if there is any corrossion.

channelmaniac · Apr 10, 2006

The easiest thing to do is to shotgun the electrolytic capacitors around the audio amp circuit.

eccs19 · Apr 10, 2006

channelmaniac said:
The easiest thing to do is to shotgun the electrolytic capacitors around the audio amp circuit.

OK, I know this is going to make me look stupid, but what the heck do you mean by doing a shotgun? (other than shooting the board into a million pieces with a shootgun)

Lime2K · Apr 10, 2006

channelmaniac said:
The easiest thing to do is to shotgun the electrolytic capacitors around the audio amp circuit.

Yeah, translate that statement into english, please.

<metalslugvoice> SHOTGUN! </voice>

TravistyOJ · Apr 10, 2006

did yah check the 12 volts?

By shotgun i think he means replacing all the caps, rather than one by one. This is good practice since its cheap and quick.

TravistyOJ · Apr 10, 2006

eccs19 said:
If no sound after a bit of playing, then I would check for corrosion on the volume slider. Anyone know if that slider can be replaced, and where would one get a replacement?

I have a dead MV-1F that Ive deemed unfixable and Ive been using it for parts. I got one if you need it.

chris1 · Apr 10, 2006

Ruell said:
Me and my bro bought a MVS 4-25 v3 cab at the superauction the 1st of the month. However, the sound doesn't work at all. Not through the speakers and not even through the headphone ports. Everything else seems to be ok on it. All the slots work and they play great. does anyone have an idea of where I should start doing to fix it?

Here's a pic from hardmvs that is the type that was in it.

The only thing I can add is:
Make sure the top board is plugged into the bottom board tightly..(those white blocks on the sides=corners that plug into each other)
I'd also clean all the slots real well just to knock that off...and the jamma edge connector..
.Look for broken traces.

I bought the exact looking four slot mobo from an Arcade machine auction awhile ago....May have been superauction,...and doesn't work..It only goes to the Cross Hatch Screen.

Ruell · Apr 10, 2006

Well here's some pics. (notice the thick layer of dust) I used a can of compressed air and got rid of a lot of the dust and stuff. I also cleaned the jamma connection and made sure the 2 boards were connected nice and tight. I turned it on and still no sound.

Berty · Apr 10, 2006

Mine used to do the same thing. You need to replace the caps around the amp.

Borman · Apr 10, 2006

Get a toothbrush and start cleaning!

eccs19 · Apr 10, 2006

It's hard to tell from the pic, but is your battery leaking? I can't tell if it's just glue, or if it's something else. If it's leaking, get it out of there, or you won't have any board left.

Your last picture, top right corner, inside the volume slider, that's what I cleaned, it was all corroded in there.

Berty, what CAPS specifically do you recommend to change? I'm not sure what area is the amp. I think that may be what I need to do to mine, and perhaps that's what Ruell needs to do as well.

Thanks!

Ruell · Apr 10, 2006

nah it's glue on the battery. which caps do I have to replace?

mainman · Apr 10, 2006

Change the large 470 micro farad caps in the amp circuitry.

MKL · Apr 10, 2006

Before starting to replace things try if you get any sound from the white 4-pin connector. hook it up to a stereo receiver, not directly to speakers. External pins are left and right channels, internal are grounds. And raise the volume with the headphone slider (that is currently all the way down).
Also, check solder side of the whole audio area as some traces could be scratched (if there's no protective foam).

channelmaniac · Apr 10, 2006

The caps you want to change are the upright, cylindrical, black with the grey stripe ones around the HA13001 IC shown in that third picture.

If you don't have a good desoldering iron then pay someone else to do it.

RJ

Ruell · Apr 11, 2006

channelmaniac said:
The caps you want to change are the upright, cylindrical, black with the grey stripe ones around the HA13001 IC shown in that third picture.

If you don't have a good desoldering iron then pay someone else to do it.

RJ

Is there anyone here that can fix my board?

mainman · Apr 11, 2006

Ruell said:
Is there anyone here that can fix my board?

I pretty sure you can do it, as I suspect your problem is just a bad electrolytic capacitor which is through hole and not surface mount. There's a 60% chance that is your problem. Just got finished repairing my 6 slot and a friends 4 slot that had the same problem as yours. I could walk you through it.

Ruell · Apr 11, 2006

mainman said:
I pretty sure you can do it, as I suspect your problem is just a bad electrolytic capacitor which is through hole and not surface mount. There's a 60% chance that is your problem. Just got finished repairing my 6 slot and a friends 4 slot that had the same problem as yours. I could walk you through it.

Ok then. I'm going to need of list of things to get this done.

channelmaniac · Apr 11, 2006

1. Soldering Iron
2. Solder
3. Vacuum Desoldering tool
4. Electrolytic Capacitors (make a list of the ones around the amplifier IC)
5. A couple of scrap boards with Capacitors on them.

The scrap boards are so you can practice before you attempt this on your Neo.

RJ

Ruell · Apr 13, 2006

Well I'm broke until the 20th. So I'll probably won't be able to start on it until then so I can pick up the desolder tools.

Ruell · Apr 19, 2006

I have everything except for the caps. can you please circle the ones I need to replace in the pic.

Ruell · Apr 20, 2006

mainman said:
Change the large 470 micro farad caps in the amp circuitry.

channelmaniac said:
The caps you want to change are the upright, cylindrical, black with the grey stripe ones around the HA13001 IC shown in that third picture.

If you don't have a good desoldering iron then pay someone else to do it.

RJ

I'm sort of confused on which ones do I have to replace. Do I have to replace just the 470s which are marked in red, or do I have to replace all of them that are in the yellow box?

channelmaniac · Apr 20, 2006

If you don't have an oscilloscope to see the waveforms for the audio and where they stop in the circuitry you need to replace all those caps I circled on the pic and mailed to you.

RJ

MVS 4 slot NO SOUND

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