Not gonna lie, the quality of living was better than I expected. I know all the restaurants I went to were really nice and more than what the average citizen gets, but it's more than just that - I saw a lot of happy, smiling kids. That was my favorite part, just seeing the happy children playing in parks and shit.
Streets were busy with cars, and there was a lot of activity - always lots of people coming to and fro.
I'm just talking about Pyongyang, though. Outside of Pyongyang I only went to a few other cities, like Nampho and some other whose name I forget. There was only one time where we had to take a detour thru a back alley, and the tour guide told us not to take pictures. All the other foreigners were eating it up, but honestly...it just looked like a normal Chinese scene to me. I truly believe that if NK cut that 'no pictures' shit out and let the world see the real life, then maybe relations would be better.
I'm not a big fan of big walls of texts, so I'll try and keep in simple. I went during the birthday of Kim Jong Il and was in NK for eight days. I'll post one story here, and that was on KJI's birthday:
So we go to the mausoleum, and our cameras and coats are taken away. We're then put on a long moving walkway while a slow melody plays in the background. After a few minutes we move to another walkway, to a hall filled with nothing but pictures of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il. This goes on for maybe eight or so minutes.
The anticipation builds.
We get off the moving walkway and enter an absolutely huge room, real nice like. Again, more pictures of the leaders.
Finally, we arrive. I never knew what to expect, but we finally arrive in a massive, darkly lit room with a red tint. In the middle of the room is a glass case with Kim Jong Il's body inside. The most haunting music plays in the background as we all wait to bow to Kim. Our Korean tour guides cry a little.
After that, we enter a room filled with nothing but letters and honorary diplomas for Kim Jong Il. The whole time I was just kind of out of it, because the whole thing was surreal. The build up to seeing Kim's body was masterful.
A few more things, and advice to any future travelers:
1. Be loose. On the tour bus, all the tourists sat in the back while I sat up front with North Koreans. I talked to my North Korean guides more than the other tourists. I think both sides are a bit scared to start a conversation, so it's up to someone to break the ice. This also helped out big time, because I had told my guide I was an English teacher and when we went to a middle school, there was an English class...she nudged me in the arm when we got there and told me to teach them for a few minutes. A highlight. Ah! Another time, there was a mass dance going on. I asked my English guide if I could join him and he said, "Uh, no one's ever asked, you probably can't..." and then the North Korean guide was ecstatic and told me I could dance with them! Someone recorded me doing this, I'll see if they put it up on youtube. Again, you just have to be brave enough to be the first to ask and step outside your comfort zone.
2. Have respect. There were a few other annoying tourists who acted like complete assholes - this doesn't help mend relations between people and countries. I bowed in front of every Kim Jong Il and Kim Il Sung statue. I didn't want to, but I'm in North Korea, and that's what they do. On the last day, my Korean guide told me that if more Americans were like me, the world would be a better place. Coming from a North Korean where everyone hates America, this may be the highest compliment I'll ever receive in life.
3. Please for the love of god if anyone goes to North Korea, bring a few beers for the soldiers at the DMZ. I wanted to do this (woulda made for an awesome photo) but didn't buy any beers beforehand. I'm sure they would love it. My biggest regret of the trip.
The Korean people are strong and especially proud. Everyday I was reminded of the evils of the American empire (I even bought a newspaper, the Pyongyang Times, that decries America in the very funny editorials). I may not agree with the government, but I made a few friends with the people, and I promised to write them letters, which I'll do.
All in all, I took about 1,200 pictures, most of them of just daily life and buildings and the countryside. I've got about 200 on my facebook, but I'll post some favorites here:
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...39810985_n.jpg
the tour guides went away for a while, I saw a soldier smiling at me so I went over and had some fun...we're all laughing
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...32168471_n.jpg
and then they look hard for the camera
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...55324411_n.jpg
in Kaesong City
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...09031888_n.jpg
again, tour guides went away, so lonesage had time to play.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...78145726_n.jpg
dancing in the mass dance
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...19035420_n.jpg
i made a classroom of north korean 14-15 year olds laugh. made me happy.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...17594139_n.jpg
ice skating rink...also went to a bowling alley, and there was a skate park nearby too.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...45015283_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...18853040_n.jpg
i bought a kimjongilia seed, the flower is quite beautiful, i hope my mother plants it...
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...85985010_n.jpg
these pictures of kim il sung and kim jong il are everywhere, on every block it seems...after a few days, i couldn't get their stupid fucking faces out of my head. but then, that's the point, isn't it.
Fuck anyone in advance who honestly believes absolutely everything and everyone was orchestrated, though. Anyone who believes that is just as biased as the North Koreans.
PS OrochiEddie, if you had never posted that Pyongyang Racer thread, I never would have looked at that tour web site, so I never would have looked up how to go to North Korea and then I never would have went to North Korea. I have you to thank for indirectly leading me to go to North Korea. For this, I have one postcard I bought from North Korea that I want to mail you. PM me your address.
PPS all the Chinese are unaware of the human rights violations and death camps of North Korea, but then again, a lot of them are unaware of the Holocaust...BUT, when I asked them how they couldn't know, my friend told me, "Do all the Americans know what the Japanese did to China in WWII?" Point well taken. Most Chinese view NK as a very poor country akin to China 50 to 60 years ago and nothing more.
PPS please ask me questions, I feel like there's so much to say but this post is way too long as-is

