Last Blade AES Spine Sunfade

[doaal]

I've been looking for a copy of LB1 AES for a while now. For some reason many copies have sunfading on the spine, which I'm trying to avoid.

Looking at two copies for sale and I think I've burnt my brain looking at inserts. I can't tell what's sunfaded or not anymore.

Here's two inserts. Does the first one have water damage at the top and bottom or is it just me? And is the spine on the second sunfaded, or is that just the lighting/camera?

 

[doaal]

Eh, looking around and I think I can get a copy in better shape for the same price if I'm patient. Mods can delete this thread if they want.

 

[HeavyMachineGoob]

Have you ever considered that you might be a nitpicky fagit? Look at yourself, you're obsessing over paper. Stop being a little bitch and just buy a Last Blade 1 already.

On top of that, consider that bootlegs are almost never sunfaded, because shelf queens such as yourself must have zero sunfade on the paper.

(Except for the highest end Big Tymer bootlegging where collectors have already ascended and see sunfade as a marker for authenticity. Maybe one day you too can ascend.)

 

[Neo Alec]

A legit cart will often have some character.

 

[RAZO]

Yea, sunfade is pretty common with Aes games. They don't call Japan, "Land of the Rising Sun" for nothing. That LB is sunfaded but I've seen much worse. It's also a good indicator the game is legit.

If the sunfade bothers you that much, buy a repro insert and just store the original one in some folder.

 

[doaal]

I didn't get the impression that LB1 was yet in the price range for bootlegs. I don't mind some wear--my soft shells all have cracked inserts--but I'm also not overpaying for something in that condition. And I'll gladly pay a few extra bucks for something in nice shape.

 

[Tarma]

Goob fade - now that's an issue.

 

[RAZO]

I didn't get the impression that LB1 was yet in the price range for bootlegs. I don't mind some wear--my soft shells all have cracked inserts--but I'm also not overpaying for something in that condition. And I'll gladly pay a few extra bucks for something in nice shape.

Sometimes the cart could be legit but the insert, case, or manual could be fake. This is becoming more common now since collectors will pay top dollar for the cleanest copy. Sometimes sellers don't even know if what they are selling is legit.

Not saying you can't find a nice original LB but again, sunfade is a good indicator the game is legit. If you are ocd and the sunfade bothers you, I would just buy a repro insert from neooldstore or something. Store the original and just put it back if you decide to sell the game.

Or just live with it and enjoy playing a awesome game.

 

[Heinz]

Goob fade - now that's an issue.

If only, the goob ink is made of adagoobium.

 

[Niko]

The first image is just normal discoloration due to the age of the insert. I wouldnt let that bother you as it shouldnt affect the other side.

It took me forever to find a non sunfaded LB1, just be prepared to pay top dollar.

 

[HellioN]

Goob fade - now that's an issue.

I prefer mine with the goobs.
That way I know the insert won't fall into the toilet while I appreciate the carts.

 

[madmanjock]

The sun is good, it helps to kill germs. You don’t want germs on your games.

 

[butthurt coconut]

Have you ever considered that you might be a nitpicky fagit? Look at yourself, you're obsessing over paper. Stop being a little bitch and just buy a Last Blade 1 already.

On top of that, consider that bootlegs are almost never sunfaded, because shelf queens such as yourself must have zero sunfade on the paper.

(Except for the highest end Big Tymer bootlegging where collectors have already ascended and see sunfade as a marker for authenticity. Maybe one day you too can ascend.)

Buy a scratched to hell loose copy with a ripped up lable, like a REAL gamer.