Egret II Remote "brightness knob," replacement/repair.

[supergrafx77]

Hello guys....

I've been putting this off for awhile, but need to get this thing fixed somehow.
My monitor is stuck on the brightest level/I think, due to the knob/thing on the remote/white plastic thing, having broke off the remote.
Been like this probably for a year/year an a half now....
Due to health reasons/lung problems, etc..., as well as the scarcity of the part in question/crude soldering skills, I can't & should not do the repair myself.
Anyone know the exact knob thing I need for replacement on these remotes/where to order? And someone here on the forums that could do such a repair?
Wish all four of the white lower knobs could be replaced with the sturdier black ones above those white ones-being the horizontal/vertical/zoom, etc.. knobs?
I've been noticing my burn-in getting worse a bit to a small degree, and think I should be lowering the brightness down a tad/should of asked about this shit like a year ago....
Here's the knob I'm talking about, top one of the four on the remote with the white turn-thingee missing:

 

[themisterfalcon]

Wish all four of the white lower knobs could be replaced with the sturdier black ones above those white ones-being the horizontal/vertical/zoom, etc.. knobs?

These are designed this way as Brightness and RGB-Gain isn't something you should be adjusting frequently. If you are, then your chassis needs some work. On all my Egrets adjusting the contrast on the bottom slightly adjusts it enough for differences in games.

 

[supergrafx77]

These are designed this way as Brightness and RGB-Gain isn't something you should be adjusting frequently. If you are, then your chassis needs some work. On all my Egrets adjusting the contrast on the bottom slightly adjusts it enough for differences in games.

Yeah, I think my chassis is probably good (for now)-that is, image stays solid throughout- but the knob in question, broke off when the brightness was most likely jacked up to 100%, one day I decided to fuck around w/ the settings.
So when I fiddle w/ the contrast, w/ the brightness all the way up (as I think it is at the moment), can't seem to fine tune the results I truly would like.
Do you think this remote can be fixed? Or should I be just looking for a replacement?
I feel like a dumb ass, breaking the knob in the first place...
Also, btw, what is the procedure of turning these knobs.
I had done it in the past by just using my finger.
But pretty sure when I broke the brightness knob in question, I was an idiot and used a small flat screwdriver.
But still wonder, WTF, in doing so, did this break the knob???
I mean, I think, common sense tells me that probably, adjusting these knobs w/ a metal screwdriver while the cab was on, could have maybe shorted out the EII, etc... (if this is possible, thank god this did not happen during my dumb assness), maybe plastic screwdriver better?
But still don't understand how the white thing/knob broke off like that....

 

[themisterfalcon]

I wouldn't adjust anything else for now. Screwing with other adjustments to compensate for one is not the right way to do this.

Just keep looking for a repair or replacement.

And when you do have a fully functioning remote board use a silicone or plastic screw driver, not metal, to adjust it.

 

[supergrafx77]

I wouldn't adjust anything else for now. Screwing with other adjustments to compensate for one is not the right way to do this.

Just keep looking for a repair or replacement.

And when you do have a fully functioning remote board use a silicone or plastic screw driver, not metal, to adjust it.

Jesus, thanks man! Had a feeling using a metal screw driver was a def no no. Shit.
Really, thanks for the info. Looking forward to getting this repaired or finding a replacement.
Of course, image is good enough, why I haven't been pressed for a year/half or so.
But monitor seems like I should lessen brightness 2-8%, so I can have some play in the contrast settings.

 

[ebinsugewa]

Just adjust the SUB CONT or ABL directly on the chassis.

 

[supergrafx77]

Just adjust the SUB CONT or ABL directly on the chassis.

Thanks for the tip ebinsugewa.
Glad to know that is an option. I'm an idiot about this chassis terminology: what is SUB CONT or ABL mean?
I would google search that but I'm suspicious that it would be a difficult google search and happen to have had my 3rd or 4rth glass of bourbon, so...
But I still get what your saying, w/out looking up those words which I still want to know the meanings: I thought that may possible, to go to the source/main controls, rather than just the remote.
But, thought...., if the brightness is locked in, so to speak, like I broke it so the knob keeps thinking/jacking it to 100%, blah, blah... thought just too much pain in the ass to go in the crawl back of the cab and fiddle/jumping out checking screen, and back and forth....
Since the image looks pretty good, maybe it is perfect and I'm being ANAL, thought I should just get this remote fixed or replaced instead of crawling, etc.., into the machine, etc..., I've already fucked up the remote by being dumb ass. I don't even want to think what else dumb ass I could do fucking w/ the main chassis controls directly.

 

[ebinsugewa]

Sub contrast and automatic brightness limiter. The chassis pots are tiny, be careful with them. I have already had one break simply due to age.

 

[supergrafx77]

Sub contrast and automatic brightness limiter. The chassis pots are tiny, be careful with them. I have already had one break simply due to age.

Thanks again for that info/knowledge Ebisugewa!
I have some good news btw:
Grantspain from Arcade Otaku said that the pots on the remote are 3k3 types, but 3k ones will work.
So I ordered it via his supplied link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DZ913-3K-OH...393264?hash=item2a69c8caf0:g:rNUAAOSwOVpXV8RY
They are coming from China, so maybe will have to wait until December/January.