Post Your Recent Purchases!

deviljin102

deviljin102

Crazed MVS Addict
10 Year Member
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Feb 12, 2010
Posts
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My recent purchase is this Neo II stick that I got from Japan. I then had issues with it not working so I tore it down and replaced the buttons with Seimitsu PS-14-K 30mm snap-ins with .50N tension springs that I installed in all of them. Mixed with a Sanwa LB-30 battop. This feels way better than the AES stick in terms of hand placement. Also, I had to get orange for the last button since they didn't have blue. I will swap that in the future if I find the blue button in this particular model. My original idea was to somehow get happ buttons in here but I felt that would have been doing too much although the microswitch buttons would have been awesome. Might be an idea for another stick mod down the line. But here is before and after.

Original vs Mod and Refurbished.
 

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HellioN

HellioN

, What The Fuck Is This Shit?
20 Year Member
Joined
May 10, 2004
Posts
5,167
deviljin102 said:
My recent purchase is this Neo II stick that I got from Japan. I then had issues with it not working so I tore it down and replaced the buttons with Seimitsu PS-14-K 30mm snap-ins with .50N tension springs that I installed in all of them. Mixed with a Sanwa LB-30 battop. This feels way better than the AES stick in terms of hand placement. Also, I had to get orange for the last button since they didn't have blue. I will swap that in the future if I find the blue button in this particular model. My original idea was to somehow get happ buttons in here but I felt that would have been doing too much although the microswitch buttons would have been awesome. Might be an idea for another stick mod down the line. But here is before and after.

Original vs Mod and Refurbished.
Click to expand...
Did you have to mod the shell any to get the lever/buttons to fit or did they drop right in?
 
deviljin102

deviljin102

Crazed MVS Addict
10 Year Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Posts
136
HellioN said:
Did you have to mod the shell any to get the lever/buttons to fit or did they drop right in?
Click to expand...
No mod is needed. Just put them in. However, looking for the right 30mm buttons was a chore as I didn't want something that felt mushy. The original buttons felt slightly better than the AES stick buttons but both felt hollow. Also over time, the AES stick's buttons felt dry and had a squeak. You'd need to grease those. So in referencing both of those, I needed something more and better. The PS-14-K's came with an option to insert tension springs. I assume other buttons have the same option, but since these are Seimitsu, it made sense here. Now, in the pic where the red arrows are, the terminals are not positioned side by side like the originals. So I improvised some wiring from the buttons to the PCB. Adding tension springs here makes a world of difference and is a preferred alternative to not having microswitches in them.

The connector from the joystick limits my spacing as seen in the blue circle. I could have cut those and added wiring to give me more space to maneuver the PCB around but I didn't want to do all that it would've made things look a little organized and cleaner. When I took apart the balltop, I wondered if there was a way to design the square gate and turn it into an octogate as there isn't any on the net. I do have a 3D printer still new in the box and I need to learn it but maybe I can create something here. I am a fan of square gates but octo's feel better as I have JNX ones in 2 out of the 3 AES sticks I have modded. The battop added here came with a screw adapter so it's that simple to replace.

PCB is held there by kapton tape on the piller and of course, I put some on the back so it doesn't short against the metal plate. In the yellow outline, my original idea was to remove that pillar, place the PCB after the extensions, and add Suzo Happ buttons. To do that, I would have to cut down the buttons, and carefully reglue the length I needed so it would turn the button into short throws and have enough space for the microswitch. That may be something I might do with this stick in the future, or I may buy a NEO I and do it since I have a NEO II already. I truly like the weight of this stick as well. Something the AES sticks are lacking.
 

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HellioN

HellioN

, What The Fuck Is This Shit?
20 Year Member
Joined
May 10, 2004
Posts
5,167
deviljin102 said:
No mod is needed. Just put them in. However, looking for the right 30mm buttons was a chore as I didn't want something that felt mushy. The original buttons felt slightly better than the AES stick buttons but both felt hollow. Also over time, the AES stick's buttons felt dry and had a squeak. You'd need to grease those. So in referencing both of those, I needed something more and better. The PS-14-K's came with an option to insert tension springs. I assume other buttons have the same option, but since these are Seimitsu, it made sense here. Now, in the pic where the red arrows are, the terminals are not positioned side by side like the originals. So I improvised some wiring from the buttons to the PCB. Adding tension springs here makes a world of difference and is a preferred alternative to not having microswitches in them.

The connector from the joystick limits my spacing as seen in the blue circle. I could have cut those and added wiring to give me more space to maneuver the PCB around but I didn't want to do all that it would've made things look a little organized and cleaner. When I took apart the balltop, I wondered if there was a way to design the square gate and turn it into an octogate as there isn't any on the net. I do have a 3D printer still new in the box and I need to learn it but maybe I can create something here. I am a fan of square gates but octo's feel better as I have JNX ones in 2 out of the 3 AES sticks I have modded. The battop added here came with a screw adapter so it's that simple to replace.

PCB is held there by kapton tape on the piller and of course, I put some on the back so it doesn't short against the metal plate. In the yellow outline, my original idea was to remove that pillar, place the PCB after the extensions, and add Suzo Happ buttons. To do that, I would have to cut down the buttons, and carefully reglue the length I needed so it would turn the button into short throws and have enough space for the microswitch. That may be something I might do with this stick in the future, or I may buy a NEO I and do it since I have a NEO II already. I truly like the weight of this stick as well. Something the AES sticks are lacking.
Click to expand...
This is easily one of the most detailed responses to a simple question ever.
LoLz.
Thank you! 😁
 
deviljin102

deviljin102

Crazed MVS Addict
10 Year Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Posts
136
HellioN said:
This is easily one of the most detailed responses to a simple question ever.
LoLz.
Thank you! 😁
Click to expand...
I was going to put a simple answer but I figured the information would be useful to someone in the future if they wanted to do what I did.
 
Theruff

Theruff

Cheng's Errand Boy
Joined
Apr 29, 2023
Posts
115
Got some NES cardboard for $10 per box. Embassy was $9 for the cib game
 

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Catoblepa

Catoblepa

King's Dry Cleaner
20 Year Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2003
Posts
387
My new purchase. Thankfully you can still find some good deals from time to time... a boxed AES stick in very good condition (cracked ball, of course) + AES RGB cable for 80 bucks isn't bad at all.

xFE6PAd.jpeg
 
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