Which AES model

[Voodoohead]

As i am new to this collecting thing and as i want to do it right, i was wondering which aes model you would suggest to me and for which reason?
maybe you can give some pros and cons to each of the three: PAL, US and JAPANESE.

 

[xsq]

Don't get a PAL system, it will be 50hz, Games will be slower and you'll have black boarders on the top&bottom. (They can be modded however.)
The rest of the differences are managed by the BIOS - JPN plays all games uncensored and in Japanese, while some will be censored with a US one (all will be in English). The best way around this would be to get a UNIBIOS installed (if you're good with the soldering iron you can do it yourself, but it's not recommened for noobs).

You might also want to check the revision of the system you're going to get and if it is advisable to mod it's (RGB) output. See Jamma-Nation-X Tutorials for more info.

Also: GOOGLE! SEARCH FUNCTION.
As well as: Don't buy to collect, buy to play. If you're looking to save some money, consider getting into MVS first instead of Homeconsole stuff (get the cheaper releases on each system if you're feeling sassy)... Xian Xi builds bad ass CMVSs for cheap, there are a lot of other options (e.g. Omega CMVS). Don't ever buy conversions EVER. Get an "MVS to AES" converter, like the MagicKey instead.

 

[pulstar]

In my opinion revision of motherboard is more important than region. PAL systems are very easy to mod for 60hz, and if you know someone (or can do it yourself) that is handy with a soldering iron, a unibios will get over censorship issues.

As stated above, if you're just looking to play games, an cMVS would probably serve you better (and will be cheaper)...and really take the advice by xsq and don't buy conversions. Games are destroyed and you're funding the process of more games getting destroyed.

 

[Voodoohead]

first thx for your quick answers. second which revisions are the recommended ones?

 

[xsq]

do your own research? You know like

Jamma-Nation-X Tutorials
GOOGLE! SEARCH FUNCTION.

AFAIK if you're going with RGB out (which you really should) only 1st gen, 3-3 and 3-4 (and a few 3-5s) need an RGB mod.

 

[Heinz]

I found my AES 3-6 revision with the appropriate traces being cut to remove the vertical lines, was incredibly crisp via RGB. Though that was via a Sony PVM so... well not sure what an older revision would be like in comparison.

 

[Voodoohead]

http://nfggames.com/games/neorgb/

i did some research but dont really get it. which revision is in between this 19999 to 33000?
lets say i dont want to mod it...which revision come to your mind?

 

[Heinz]

http://nfggames.com/games/neorgb/

i did some research but dont really get it. which revision is in between this 19999 to 33000?

3-6 mostly.

 

[xsq]

http://nfggames.com/games/neorgb/

that site is crap. Go to the Jamma Nation X->Tutorials->NeoGeo->AES read the following guides:
"RGB Ratings for AES"
"Knowing your Board Version"

[can't do it myself right now, JNX is blocked here at work, this (as well as the revision numbers from my last post) is from memory]

 

[Voodoohead]

alright i will look it up thx xsq!

 

[joe8]

As i am new to this collecting thing and as i want to do it right, i was wondering which aes model you would suggest to me and for which reason?
maybe you can give some pros and cons to each of the three: PAL, US and JAPANESE.

PAL (Euro) AES has English language, but has 50hz video output, although it is easy to mod the system to get 60hz. But some people think it's better to leave AES consoles as they are, without modding them. Mods should only be done if they're absolutely necessary.

US AES has English language, but some games don't have blood. The English translation is "Engrish", so it's not always easy to follow a storyline, even though it's in English (for example the Samurai Shodown and KOF storylines).

Japanese AES has Japanese language, but all games have blood. Which often doesn't matter that much, as most games can played without knowing the language, as they are simple arcade games.

The best solution is a Unibios, but you can buy a CMVS, or a MVS board and supergun, and have one in those instead (in addition to an AES console and MVS adaptor). Or you could get one professionally installed. Adding a socket to an AES is quite difficult to do yourself.

As far as board revisions, you would go for the one with the best RGB (rather than the best composite). But I don't know if serial no.s correlate consistently with board revisions, and a seller on ebay will usually only give you the serial number.

 

[Xian Xi]

There's no perfect choice without having to do any mods. The 1st gen AES isn't compatible with a lot of TVs due to it's refresh rate of 59.18hz, that was later fixed when they bumped it up to 61.18hz or so.

3-2 has good RGB but caps need to be changed since the AC coupling is bad with the 100uf ones.
3-3 has weak RGB out, nothing an amp can't fix
3-4 has buzzing in the audio, weak RGB but stronger than 3-3, just needs a recap with 470uf caps
3-5 has reversed audio channels meaning L is R and R is L. RGB is nice and bright but every few other 3-5 units suffer from a checkerboard effect on video
3-6 has the best audio, correct channels, nice and bright RGB but requires 3 traces to be cut that branch off the RGB lines and go under the encoder crystal and produces vertical lines in the picture.

 

[GutsDozer]

I got a JP Pro POW 3 AES with a Unibios and it works out for me pretty good.

 

[tacoguy]

My only question is are all AES models equal once their rgb is fixed?

 

[itsofrustratin]

As i am new to this collecting thing and as i want to do it right, i was wondering which aes model you would suggest to me and for which reason?
maybe you can give some pros and cons to each of the three: PAL, US and JAPANESE.

Japanese model is a good choice, its readily available and cheaper. The language doesnt really matter much and some games can be played in english and japanese. Dont quote me but i heard the US versions tend to have better RGB output than most japanese versions. They tend to be lower serial numbers. The drawbacks of either can be fixed with modding though as others have stated.

 

[Takumaji]

It's called homecart system, there is no "AES".

Voodoo,

get the cheapest homecart system you can find and mod it with region and PAL/NTSC switches or set it to JPN mode by default (that's what I did). JPN/NTSC means full speed and no censorship (white blood).

 

[madman]

Get a CMVS if you want to actually play the games. Get an AES if you want to worry about serial numbers, mods, conversions, fakes, sun fade, insertion marks, finger prints on manuals, box protectors, etc.

 

[aha2940]

Get an AES if you want to worry about serial numbers...

I believe only MVS carts have serial numbers. AFAIK, AES do not have them. Also, of all the other points you mentioned, only the fake carts seem to be a valid worry for a real gamer. Collectors, however are a different story.

Regards.

 

[madman]

I believe only MVS carts have serial numbers. AFAIK, AES do not have them. Also, of all the other points you mentioned, only the fake carts seem to be a valid worry for a real gamer. Collectors, however are a different story.

Regards.

Did you even read this thread? Serials of the AES itself.

Regards.

 

[joe8]

Get a CMVS if you want to actually play the games. Get an AES if you want to worry about serial numbers, mods, conversions, fakes, sun fade, insertion marks, finger prints on manuals, box protectors, etc.

You can get both, a CMVS (or supergun) and an AES with an MVS adaptor. Get the cheapest AES console you can find (probably an unboxed Japanese one), and a CMVS (or MVS board w/supergun) with a Unibios chip installed. That way, the AES is Japanese, but the CMVS is English. And most of your games will be in MVS form, so you can play them on both systems. Some of the MVS boards have a socket already installed, so the chip installation is easy. You'll have the better RGB and Unibios (arcade mode, AES mode, dip switches etc) on the CMVS, as well as having a homecart system.

 

[Neorebel]

Also, when buying a used homecart system, there is no guarantee that the board inside the case is the same one that was originally in there according to the serial.

 

[lord7289]

I own a 3-3 US and a 3-6 JAP. I'd go with the 3-6 (any region, people are good in recommending unibios to resolve other issues such as language) , cutting the traces on the 3-6 board in order to eliminate the vertical lines is a 10 minute job and so easy to do. The difference in picture quality when hooked up with RGB is remarkable.

 

[aha2940]

Did you even read this thread? Serials of the AES itself.

Regards.

Then the serial is even less important. Did you even read Xian Xi's post above?. No matter the serial of the AES itself, you have to mod it (small mods AFAIK) to get a really nice RGB image. Also, the serial says nothing about the board inside, it may have been replaced at some point. Then again, what's the worry about the serial number?

 

[madman]

Then the serial is even less important. Did you even read Xian Xi's post above?. No matter the serial of the AES itself, you have to mod it (small mods AFAIK) to get a really nice RGB image. Also, the serial says nothing about the board inside, it may have been replaced at some point. Then again, what's the worry about the serial number?

OK, you win. I should clarify, "if you want to worry about asking a seller to open up their AES and ask if it's a 3-2, 3-3, 3-4, 3-5 or 3-6, and assume the seller knows WTF that means, AES is for you".

 

[aha2940]

OK, you win. I should clarify, "if you want to worry about asking a seller to open up their AES and ask if it's a 3-2, 3-3, 3-4, 3-5 or 3-6, and assume the seller knows WTF that means, AES is for you".

It's not about winning man, it was only about not being confusing, that's all. Your last sentence is crystal clear.

Regards.