I guess the question I was asking is what happens if you are working on a live chassis with no isolation transformer and simply rotating the yoke up or down. Making sure not to touch the copper windings, exposed terminals, neckboards, and all the other stuff I stated above. I've seen people rotate the yoke without a care in the world while on.
I read up in the service manual for sony kv-20v80 that it does state to use a isolation transformer since it is a live chassis (hot). Any recommendations for a isolation transformer replica? Most I see have a ground plug which doesn't provide true isolation. Even if you get an adapter 3 prong to 2 prong a lot still tie neutral to ground so you haven't fixed anything.
But yeah here is how this sony looks.
Degaussing wand doesn't help much (it doesnt fix it completely and returns after power off). Rotating the crt NSEW it usually just moves it downwards. Having it be on for a little bit makes it a little better. Basically I use this for DDR and want to experiment fixing it for practice. From what I've read and advice i've seen it needs a yoke adjustment up or down. Convergence is off too so I will play with the rings a bit (making note to mark og positions). Nothing much to lose on this set if I do mess it up but it can be RGB modded pretty easily.
Very good information though ReplicaX. I usually stay far away from the exposed terminals of the rectifier/filter capacitors etc for that very reason. Another thing I've noticed online is most know to discharge a crt before removing the chassis, but forget to discharge the filter capacitors.