Supergun Wiring Is Freaking Me Out!!!!

gamejunkie

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Hello, all of the stuff to build my supergun is in the mail, including the tabletop psu from jameco. I am looking at the MVS jamma connector pinout on hardmvs.com and I'm having a few questions:

Do I really need to ground the 8pins on the Jamma connector?

Do I only run ground to some of these pins and then use the other pins to branch off to ground other components?

Do I really need to wire 5volts to the 4 pins on the Jamma connector?

Do I really need to wire 12volts to the 2 pins on the Jamma connector?

What are the select up and select down pins?

Do I need coin counter pins?

What are the Lockout Coil Pins?

I am using the RGB>NTSC encoder from crazearcade.com. Do I use the video ground pin or ground from my psu?



I will be very grateful for anyone that can help me figure this out.

Thanks,
Austin
 

Dean

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Put down all the wires and parts. In fact put them in a box and tape it up.

Go to the post office and mail it to someone who can build it for you.


Seriously, you might be able to do this still, BUT.

I'll try to answer some of the questions.
You can combine some of the grounds and the +5V and +12V together (obviously don't connect ground to +5V, I mean connect the "like" connections). But I don't recommend doing so. You're going to need many ground lines and a few +5V lines so I'd run wires to them all anyways.

Select Up and Select Down are for multislots. Only need to connect them if you're using a multislot system.

Coin usually = select button

Lockout, no.
Use the video ground on the JAMMA for the encoder.
 

gamejunkie

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I can build it I just needed to know if it needed to be grounded 8times?
 

MKL

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D-Lite said:
You're going to need many ground lines and a few +5V lines so I'd run wires to them all anyways.

Fact is the jameco PSU in question has only one 5v wire, so there's no point in running it to more than one jamma pin...
 

Suehirocho

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Hi GJ,

Yes, all 5v, 12v, ground must be connected
Connecting just one wire to ground then cascading to the other 7 ground pins should be fine (mine does that, well 2x4 actually)

However, when it comes to 5v and 12v , be carefull if you do this, as the total current (A) required would be drained in one 5v wire and one 12v wire only . This should be ok if you use a wire thick enough (sorry dunno about the gauge we speak in mm2 here). Prolly the pros here can give you the safe gauge to use.

Select up, select down, specific to multislot MVS : allows to choose the game (you can only connect one if you want, as the selections cycle)

Coin counter : problably to connect to a mechanical device dedicated to count coins (you bet it !). I guess nobody uses this outside of arcades (I don't )

Lock out coil : another mechanical device able to lock the coin boxes under certain conditions. Not too sure, but not used either for home use.

Good luck with your project ! :smirk:
 

NGT

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suggestion:

-Stereo/mono switch for multi and single slots
-game switch button (you only need one of the pins, up or down, not both)
 

ttooddddyy

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NGT said:
suggestion:

-game switch button (you only need one of the pins, up or down, not both)

A good way of wiring this from the mvs edge connect is in parallel with the joystick down (or whatever postion you choose) so you dont need an extra button for select, simply push stick down to select game.
 

gamejunkie

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That's cool, would the game freakout while you were playing it by always registering a cart change button press?

ttooddddyy said:
A good way of wiring this from the mvs edge connect is in parallel with the joystick down (or whatever postion you choose) so you dont need an extra button for select, simply push stick down to select game.
 

ttooddddyy

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gamejunkie said:
That's cool, would the game freakout while you were playing it by always registering a cart change button press?

No it does not, in game play mode the game select logic is ignored
 

DanAdamKOF

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If you're gonna get a unibios you'll always pause the game in AES mode since select is pause in homecart games.

*edit: if you do ttooddddyy's idea
 

RiotoftheBlood

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I'm sorry, but you're just wrong here: if anything, there should be more ground wires than the total number of wires for +5V and +12V. This is assuming you're using the same gauge of wire for all. The current carried through all of the ground wires is equal to the current carried through all of the +5V and +12V wires. See Kirchoff's current law.

Suehirocho said:
Hi GJ,

Yes, all 5v, 12v, ground must be connected
Connecting just one wire to ground then cascading to the other 7 ground pins should be fine (mine does that, well 2x4 actually)

However, when it comes to 5v and 12v , be carefull if you do this, as the total current (A) required would be drained in one 5v wire and one 12v wire only . This should be ok if you use a wire thick enough (sorry dunno about the gauge we speak in mm2 here). Prolly the pros here can give you the safe gauge to use.
 

norton9478

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RiotoftheBlood said:
I'm sorry, but you're just wrong here: if anything, there should be more ground wires than the total number of wires for +5V and +12V. This is assuming you're using the same gauge of wire for all. The current carried through all of the ground wires is equal to the current carried through all of the +5V and +12V wires. See Kirchoff's current law.

One thick wire for each LEAD should be ample... A two slot draws a maximum of 3 amps total.......
 

RiotoftheBlood

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OK, but just what is "thick"? For 3 Amps, use at least 16 gauge. He was conveying the (false) idea that it was OK to have just one wire for ground, but not for the supply lines. He didn't say anything about wire gauge for the GND line.

norton9478 said:
One thick wire for each LEAD should be ample... A two slot draws a maximum of 3 amps total.......
 

norton9478

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I use a speaker wire..... THe stuff I buy at the $1 store in 60 foot rolls. I use it to wire everything but the Controll ports.

But it's always good to have at least two wires for each lead. Just in case there is an overload or one comes off or becomes weak.
 

Dean

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MKL said:
Fact is the jameco PSU in question has only one 5v wire, so there's no point in running it to more than one jamma pin...

That's not what I was getting at. What I meant was have wires on all the lines from the JAMMA connector because you will need to wire +5V to each controller and the JROK. So, there are 4 +5V lines at the JAMMA connector, one for the supply from the PSU, 1 for each controller, 1 for the encoder. That's 4 total wires you need. You don't need to run +5V to each line. Same for +12V. For the ground lines, there's 8 total, right? A couple from the PSU, 1 for each controller, ground for the audio mounts, ground for composite video mount, ground for the LED if you have one. That's already 7 lines for ground run to the JAMMA connector.
 

MKL

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D-Lite said:
That's not what I was getting at. What I meant was have wires on all the lines from the JAMMA connector because you will need to wire +5V to each controller and the JROK. So, there are 4 +5V lines at the JAMMA connector, one for the supply from the PSU, 1 for each controller, 1 for the encoder. That's 4 total wires you need.

Ah, if you meant that OK (but see below). +5V is often not used for controllers but it's nice to have especially for autofire. it would be possible to solder these wires to a single jamma eylet though (jrok and autofire circuit draw very little current).

D-Lite said:
You don't need to run +5V to each line. Same for +12V.

Note that jamma terminals are rated 3A (I can provide specs from various manufacturers). Now for PCBs that draw less than that (most MVS mobos) it would be enough. But for more demanding boards in terms of current the single 3A jamma terminal would be like a bottle neck: it would get very hot and possibly burned. +12v is a different matter: one wire is enough, the other one is usually used as an output from the PCB to the coin counters.

D-Lite said:
For the ground lines, there's 8 total, right? A couple from the PSU, 1 for each controller, ground for the audio mounts, ground for composite video mount, ground for the LED if you have one. That's already 7 lines for ground run to the JAMMA connector.

Yes, not all 8 (9 with video ground) grounds need to be used for the PSU, it would be ridiculous. But I'd use three (and two +5v, 1 +12v).
 

Dean

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MKL said:
Ah, if you meant that OK (but see below). +5V is often not used for controllers but it's nice to have especially for autofire. it would be possible to solder these wires to a single jamma eylet though (jrok and autofire circuit draw very little current).

Neo Geo CD pads. That's why I use it.

Usually I do 2 +5V from the PSU too. Also I typically run 2 grounds from the PSU, one to each bank of 4 ground lines on the JAMMA.
 

norton9478

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MKL said:
+12v is a different matter: one wire is enough, the other one is usually used as an output from the PCB to the coin counters.

In my experiance, a handfull of boards do not have the +12v terminals connected. In Atmoswave, if the top +12v wire is not connected, then no sound will be output.
 

MKL

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norton9478 said:
In my experiance, a handfull of boards do not have the +12v terminals connected. In Atmoswave, if the top +12v wire is not connected, then no sound will be output.

Can you point out some of these boards? (let's leave AW aside)
It would mean that the the 2 terminals are not the same thing and if only one is +12v what would the other one be? Unconnected from the rest of the board? Like -5v on an MVS board? I find it hard to believe. Maybe they were bootlegs? You never know with those...
 

Orochi Iori Y

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D-Lite said:
Neo Geo CD pads. That's why I use it.

Usually I do 2 +5V from the PSU too. Also I typically run 2 grounds from the PSU, one to each bank of 4 ground lines on the JAMMA.

Also I have read that the new style joysticks require the +5V line for some games. I have no idea what games do and don't need it though...
 

norton9478

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MKL said:
Can you point out some of these boards? (let's leave AW aside)
It would mean that the the 2 terminals are not the same thing and if only one is +12v what would the other one be? Unconnected from the rest of the board? Like -5v on an MVS board? I find it hard to believe. Maybe they were bootlegs? You never know with those...

I'll check with a multimeter...

See the top +12v Jamma Lead on my cab would come out from time to time. That's how I figured this out...

Maybe My bottom +12v wasn't hooked up... I didn't think to check that.
 

gamejunkie

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I've wired everything up to the motherboard, now I'm looking for a double poll single throw switch. Does anyone know where to find these? My local radio shack doesn't seem to have what I want, I would like to have blue, black, or white. Also ebay doesn't seem to have anything but single pole single throw unless you want something that looks gay.
 

Dean

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gamejunkie said:
I've wired everything up to the motherboard, now I'm looking for a double poll single throw switch. Does anyone know where to find these? My local radio shack doesn't seem to have what I want, I would like to have blue, black, or white. Also ebay doesn't seem to have anything but single pole single throw unless you want something that looks gay.

There are a couple models at Radio Shack that'll do the job, but no DPST I can find. There are 2 different style DPDT switches there. And you'll find the cost difference even if you can find single throw is minimal. The switches are red, rocker-type. Work nice. You can see one on the supergun I made here (cut and paste link):
http://www.aloofhosting.com/dragsy/ForRay.html
 

norton9478

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gamejunkie said:
I've wired everything up to the motherboard, now I'm looking for a double poll single throw switch. Does anyone know where to find these? My local radio shack doesn't seem to have what I want, I would like to have blue, black, or white. Also ebay doesn't seem to have anything but single pole single throw unless you want something that looks gay.

If you really want it to look nice... Just buy a nice Single On/Off Switch and use a DPDT relay to throw the connections.
 
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