vertical lines on my monitor...pics inside....any ideas?
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arcadecalgary
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Cap kit seems in order , its not really expensive but takes some soldering skills, you are usually best off to change out the HOT and flyback at the same time . Kits like these run about 30 dollars and take about an hour to fix up, providing your crt has no burn in , it will ensure many more years of solid service. new monitor is fairly pricey.
good luck
Mike H
good luck
Mike H
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how hard are they to put in? I can solder pretty well, but monitor work makes me nervous 
Any sites with pictures of what "caps" even are?
any good place to buy them? and are they just universal or do I need a certain type of them?
Any sites with pictures of what "caps" even are?
any good place to buy them? and are they just universal or do I need a certain type of them?
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ttooddddyy
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That looks like a fault on your Capcom board set, not the monitor. What does it look like with different board in ?
ttooddddyy
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arcadecalgary said:
I dont know about that, I would only replace the horizontal output transistor and transformer if they had actually failed, they usually go short circuit (shorted windings in the lfbt) they do not deteriate with age, a brand new lfbt is as likely to fail as one several years old- there are many factors involved, age not being a big contributor.
The electrolytic caps dry out with age, and the crt looses emmission with age, but the lfbt and output transistor usually fail for other reasons, usually bad ass luck.
Let sleeping dogs lie imho.
PS in very rare cases the lfbt focus pot resistance can vary given heat/time, in this case a replacement would ensure stable focus pot tracking.
edit: typos
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chris1
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ttooddddyy said:
Ditto..
I also think it's a board issue..try another board..
may be a connection issue..
A wire going to the monitor from the jamma harness may be loose.
Maybe even the Jamma harness is dirty or one pin isn't making good contact.
Edge connector on board may be dirty..
Pull the harness on/off a few times..
Make sure the wires on the isolation transformer are on ok.........(?)
ttooddddyy
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looks like a faulty IC on the capcom board, maybe a corrupt gfx rom ?
ttooddddyy
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chris1 said:
Chris
That type of fault could not possibly caused by a loose connection between the board and jamma edge connect, intermittent R,G or B could well be caused by that and poor grounding can cause weird problems, but this gfx effect looks like it is being generated by the motherboard.
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That's a problem I had more than once with Capcom boards and it was always some gfx roms gone bad. The last one was a King of Dragons PCB sold to me on ebay as "perfectly working":
The problem was fixed by reburning the corrupted rom onto an eprom:
Note that it's 24 vertical lines in both cases.
The problem was fixed by reburning the corrupted rom onto an eprom:
Note that it's 24 vertical lines in both cases.
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ttooddddyy
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My Punisher bootleg B board is the same.
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This is deffinatly not a montior issue, Its either the A+B board are not together well enough or one one the GFX roms is either not in its socket correctly or has gone bad. As the issue seems to affect all tiles in the picture I would more say that simply the boards are not together well enough.
Raz
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_Kefka_ said:I have the same issue on my MVS slot-2 : any game inserted on slot 1 is ok (hopefully for me !), but any game inserted on slot 2 make this issue with vertical lines...
If someone manage to find where is the problem
Your problem will probably be due to a dirty slot2. Try cleaning the socket and make sure all the connections inside the socket look ok.
Raz
ttooddddyy
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_Kefka_ said:I have the same issue on my MVS slot-2 : any game inserted on slot 1 is ok (hopefully for me !), but any game inserted on slot 2 make this issue with vertical lines...
If someone manage to find where is the problem
As Raz said, probably dirty slot, also check that the socket pins are not bent or broken.
http://www.hardmvs.com/html/slotCleaning.htm
ttooddddyy
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9 out of 10 times it will be the slot.
Otherwise you may have a break in a pcb track or maybe a faulty IC involved in switching between slots, there will be some LS 244/245 ICs, any of these running hot ?
Otherwise you may have a break in a pcb track or maybe a faulty IC involved in switching between slots, there will be some LS 244/245 ICs, any of these running hot ?
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Razoola said:
well, I took the boards and pushed them together and then the lines were gone, then they came back. Then I pulled the boards apart and put them back together with the two clips, instead of the one I had on there. Now I only get an all blue picture and no sound.
Any ideas?
ttooddddyy
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have you disturbed the C board in the process ?
ttooddddyy
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Im not sure what capcom board that is, but isnt there a small sub pcb plugged into the B board. Earlier games like G&G dont have it, but Q sound games do afaik.
Come in MKL
Come in MKL
ttooddddyy
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top right on this SF board
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It sounds more and more like the board connectors. You could try removing the game pcb from its case and then placing it to the a board (you can normally push the connectors together harder this way). Of course make sure power is off.
Raz
Raz