Scratched Monitor Screen

Joined
Aug 29, 2001
Posts
123
I just got a used MVS arcade cab. I took it home and realized that there was a big scratch(s) on the screen, not on the monitor itself but on the plexy glass that is protecting it. Is there anyway to find a replacement for that plexy glass or replace the screen all together? If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

Thanks for the :help:

M4SNK
 

Xavier

Ozma War Hero
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a buffer or home depot , they have a plexiglass section in my town
 

ttooddddyy

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Plexiglass

The original would have been toughened safety glass, with a slight tint. (At least thats what the L&A Aussie cabs have) Perhaps the plexiglass was fitted after the original panel/screen was damaged. Maybe the US cabs were originally fitted with plexiglass ?

Found the following on removing scratches from acrylic/plexiglass:
When removing scratches be sure to sand an area larger than the scratch. Sand with a circular motion, and use a light touch and plenty of water with wet/dry papers.
Almost any commercial power sander can be used with acrylic. Use light pressure and slower speeds.
Polishing Final polishing will give acrylic a high luster. Power-driven buffing tools are recommended without exception. Buffing wheels are available as attachments for electric drills.
A good buffing wheel for acrylic consists of layers of 3/16" carbonized felt, or layers of unbleached muslin laid together to form a wheel. Solidly stitched wheels should be avoided.
The wheel should reach a surface speed of at least 1200 feet per minute. Speeds of up to 4000 feet per minute are useful for acrylic.
Acrylic should be polished using a commercial buffing compound of the type used for silver or brass, or you can use a non-silicone car polish that has no cleaning solvents in it.
First, however, tallow should be applied to the wheel as a base for the buffing compound. Just touch the tallow stick to the spinning wheel, and then quickly apply the buffing compound.
To polish, move the piece back and forth across the buffing wheel. Be careful not to apply too much pressure. Keep the work constantly moving to prevent heat buildup.
Never begin polishing at the edge of the sheet. The wheel could easily catch the top edge and throw the piece across the room or at you.


I would replace it with some 5mm toughened safety glass, looks good with a slight dark tint. Your local glass/aluminium supplier should stock it.
 

ttooddddyy

PNG FTW,
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The difference between safety glass and standard glass is that it shatters into thousands of pieces, like older car windscreens (not laminated) rendering it relatively harmless when broken. Laminated glass would also be suitable.
Standard glass is OK but in arcade enviroments safety is an issue.
 

chris1

POCKETBIKE NUT,
Joined
Oct 18, 2002
Posts
10,830
ttooddddyy said:
Plexiglass

The original would have been toughened safety glass, with a slight tint. (At least thats what the L&A Aussie cabs have) Perhaps the plexiglass was fitted after the original panel/screen was damaged. Maybe the US cabs were originally fitted with plexiglass ?

Found the following on removing scratches from acrylic/plexiglass:
When removing scratches be sure to sand an area larger than the scratch. Sand with a circular motion, and use a light touch and plenty of water with wet/dry papers.
Almost any commercial power sander can be used with acrylic. Use light pressure and slower speeds.
Polishing Final polishing will give acrylic a high luster. Power-driven buffing tools are recommended without exception. Buffing wheels are available as attachments for electric drills.
A good buffing wheel for acrylic consists of layers of 3/16" carbonized felt, or layers of unbleached muslin laid together to form a wheel. Solidly stitched wheels should be avoided.
The wheel should reach a surface speed of at least 1200 feet per minute. Speeds of up to 4000 feet per minute are useful for acrylic.
Acrylic should be polished using a commercial buffing compound of the type used for silver or brass, or you can use a non-silicone car polish that has no cleaning solvents in it.
First, however, tallow should be applied to the wheel as a base for the buffing compound. Just touch the tallow stick to the spinning wheel, and then quickly apply the buffing compound.
To polish, move the piece back and forth across the buffing wheel. Be careful not to apply too much pressure. Keep the work constantly moving to prevent heat buildup.
Never begin polishing at the edge of the sheet. The wheel could easily catch the top edge and throw the piece across the room or at you.


I would replace it with some 5mm toughened safety glass, looks good with a slight dark tint. Your local glass/aluminium supplier should stock it.


The original would have been toughened safety glass, with a slight tint
Yup..That's what's in my Big Red...tinted etc..
That's the way they come factory.

Plexiglass is used as a replacement like you said..

Most of my cabs have glass..
The Tekken 3.... Safety Glass/clear...(big piece of glass)
Neo Gold ...safety glass, I think it has a slight tint,but not as much as the Big Reds glass.

My little BAM conversion has very tinted "Plexiglass"

I know the Candy cab has glass in it but I'm not sure if it's Safety Glass..
I can't find that small writing that is found on Safety Glass.(in the corners)Ifigure it is..but I can't verify that....(?)





..............
I have some Arcade glass in storage but nothing that'll fit an MVS cab..(that I know of)
I got it from a vendor/operator.

You may be able to get what you need from a vendor/operator if you ever run accross one..
He may have something lying around.

There was a member(lurker) here awhile back that had the original Glass for an MVS cab..tinted etc.(for sale)

I don't know how something like this in glass would be shipped..
But you may want to email this ebay seller.

drmoonsparkle
He is always selling empty cabinets..(taking out the glass sometimes)
I know he has had the glass for an MVS cab several times but I don't know what he does with it.
 
Last edited:

ttooddddyy

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chris1 said:
I know the Candy cab has glass in it but I'm not sure if it's Safety Glass..
I can't find that small writing that is found on Safety Glass.(in the corners)Ifigure it is..but I can't verify that....(?)

Some cab manufacturers have thier name screen printed on the bottom RHS.

latg.JPG
 
Last edited:

chris1

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Posts
10,830
ttooddddyy said:
Some cab manufacturers have thier name screen printed on the bottom RHS.

latg.JPG


Hmm..
Yea,I can see the Writing on the glass in the .
Tekken 3..(screen printed on the bottom RHS)

The Big Red and Neo Gold have the same writing on the glass.

(I just checked again to make sure)

I have to look in the glass in the Candy cab from the inside/opening the door that holds the glass.(tomorrow)

Since this glass is held from the inside of that door,there may be some writing that I can't see from the outside..

I'd figure the Japanese cab makers to use Safety glass....yes...
 

candycab

Vice's Love Slave
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May 3, 2002
Posts
2,167
Another thing you can use if the scratches arent too big is an acrylic scratch kit made for fish aquariums. They are relativly cheap and easy find at any decent fish/pet store that sells Sea Clear tanks. Easy to use too :)

As for a replacment there is always Happ controlls or just measure and then hit up a glass or plastic shop.
 
Joined
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Posts
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Thanks

It is the original toughened safety glass and not plexi glass as I first mentioned. Thanks for all the help. Now here is my true tech question. How do I take the galss out to replace?

Thanks in advance for the help guys...
 

chris1

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Joined
Oct 18, 2002
Posts
10,830
Mad4SNK said:
It is the original toughened safety glass and not plexi glass as I first mentioned. Thanks for all the help. Now here is my true tech question. How do I take the galss out to replace?

Thanks in advance for the help guys...

Open the control panel,by reaching up through the coin door unlaching the two latches that hold the control panel shut.
The latches are far right and left towards the glass.

While the control panel is open you will see the bottom of the glass and a notch in the wood below.
The glass if lifted from that notch will come forward/down then out.
Just be carefull,it's quite heavy..
 
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