AES debug Bios Resistor...

norton9478

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Debug Bios Resistor...

I lost my resistor for my debug bios...... Now that I finnaly have the balls to put one in, can anyone tell me the value of the resistor that comes with it?

what is the banding on it also?
 

gunrock46

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norton9478 said:
Debug Bios Resistor...

I lost my resistor for my debug bios...... Now that I finnaly have the balls to put one in, can anyone tell me the value of the resistor that comes with it?

what is the banding on it also?

Just desolder the old bios completely. Put in a low profile socket in it's place and snap the new one in. No resistor then.
 

omnedon

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Thats what I did. :D

If the Universe BIOS turns out to be the shiznit, I'm ready.

Desolderong at that level is not for the novice though. I 'just' have the skill to do it, as in I have to be VERY careful. I had to bridge one trace I'd damaged.
 

norton9478

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My method was going to be using a dremel to cut the chip out at the top, then use a sodering iron and pliers to pull out each leg.

I have used this method to remove surface mount chips before...
 

omnedon

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I used a desoldering iron (cheap Ratshack one). Even then, I'm thinking if I'm going to make a habit of desoldering IC's, I should get a better one.

It seems to me, that when using a desoldering iron, the first suction is your best try at getting it all out (solder). If you have to do subsequent tries, you are less likely to get it all, and will need to use some braid.

I managed to get the old BIOS out in one undamaged piece, so I could put it back in the socket I put in, and restore the original BIOS.

I'd take care dremelling out the chip, one slip could be very bad news. :oh_no:
 

JMKurtz

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If that is the only way you can do it, I would suggest snipping the pins rather than using a dremel tool. The best method is to desolder the whole thing, but most people don't have the equipment to do it that way, so whatever you fell comfortable doing is your best bet.

As for the resistor, it is 15k.

Jeff

norton9478 said:
My method was going to be using a dremel to cut the chip out at the top, then use a sodering iron and pliers to pull out each leg.

I have used this method to remove surface mount chips before...
 

El Capitan

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Ok - sorry for the bump - but beter than starting a new thread.

I went into Maplin with a simple brief:

15k 1/4W Carbon Film Resistor.

They didn't have a clue.

I ended up getting a metal film resistor (they no longer sell carbon film ones):

"Brown, Green, Black, Yellow....... Brown"

Which I calc'd as a 1.5Mohms when I was in there, but the guy insisted it was the only one they had (the whole resistor range from 15, 150, 1500, 15000 etc was all under the same product code :( ) so for 45p I got them.

Could someone confirm:
This resistor type is wrong.
The metal film ones will be ok
The bands I need are: "Brown, Green, Black, Red....... Brown"
 

werejag

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15k resistor the type shouldnt matter

any 15k 1/4 w resistor carbon or metal should work
 

El Capitan

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werejag said:
15k resistor the type shouldnt matter

any 15k 1/4 w resistor carbon or metal should work
I understand that much - it's the rest of it. The colours look wrong to me, and I don;t know why all those resistor values are under the same product code.
 

MKL

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Don't you have a multimeter?
 

werejag

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resistor_value_chart.gif
 

El Capitan

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MKL said:
Don't you have a multimeter?
I have a multimeter - and I think I know what's going on - but I'd like someone to confirm for me as the guys at Maplin were useless.
Can you help
 

Adamaki

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El Capitan said:
I have a multimeter - and I think I know what's going on - but I'd like someone to confirm for me as the guys at Maplin were useless.
Can you help

Lol I had that problem too. Maplins is meant to be an electronics store, but when it comes to electrical components none of the staff have a clue what they're talking about! Unless you know exactly what you want they won't be able to find it for you. It's soo annoying!
 

channelmaniac

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Adamaki said:
Lol I had that problem too. Maplins is meant to be an electronics store, but when it comes to electrical components none of the staff have a clue what they're talking about! Unless you know exactly what you want they won't be able to find it for you. It's soo annoying!

Gee... sounds exactly like Radio Shack.
 

El Capitan

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Well - I've checked it with a multimeter and it reads off the scale! so I presume it is indeed 1.5MOhms

dammit.

Dunno why one of you guys couldn't have confirmed that for me :(
 

werejag

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ummm wtf was we to do? go to your house and use your multimeter?

i even posted a nice chart and jm told you the resistor value from debug instructions.
 

El Capitan

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werejag said:
ummm wtf was we to do? go to your house and use your multimeter?

i even posted a nice chart and jm told you the resistor value from debug instructions.
I was after some help from one of the Techies.

I already have know the resistor value I want. I already had a chart like the one above. And I was sure it was 1.5MOhms.

My issue was not understanding why the guy in Maplins insisted that this was the right resistor for me, as it was listed under the product code.

I wanted to check my understanding. It would appear that you have misunderstood one of my posts again :oh_no:
 

werejag

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it would appear you needed to know what you wanted at Maplins and not accepting the stupidity from him.

lets boil down what happened. you didnt have a clue what resistor you needed then you allowed a stupid Maplins employee to tell you what you needed. then you made a post about it.

i understood it very clearly.

wasnt trying to flame you el captain
 
Last edited:

JMKurtz

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What you're after is known as a pull-up resistor. These are commonly between 10k and 50k. The primary function is to allow the pin to toggle between high and low without shorting and without going into a float state.

You only need this pull-up resistor if you plan to toggle the CE pin of the chip (turn the original bios on and off).

If you're just disabling the bios and doing the double stack (piggyback) method and have no intentions of using the original bios again, just use a piece of wire and tie the CE pin (pin 2) to +5v directly.

-- -- --

Ground on pin 2 = enabled
+5 on pin 2 = disabled

Pullup resistor on pin 2 to +5v allows enough juice to keep the pin in the high (disabled) state while if applying ground to the pin at the same time, allows enough resistance to prevent a short and keeps the pin in the low (enabled) state.

Hope that helps... And yes, the guy from Maplin is a nut. Probably has the same qualifications as the people that work at Radio Shack.

Jeff
 

Adamaki

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El Capitan said:
I was after some help from one of the Techies.

I already have know the resistor value I want. I already had a chart like the one above. And I was sure it was 1.5MOhms.

My issue was not understanding why the guy in Maplins insisted that this was the right resistor for me, as it was listed under the product code.

I wanted to check my understanding. It would appear that you have misunderstood one of my posts again :oh_no:

But the resistor chart tells you it's a 1.5Mohm resistor. You just read off the colour code you posted... it's a no brainer! If all you want is confirmation that you got it right, then yeah you got it right dude!

As far as the guys in Maplins go, they probably think all resistors are the same because they're under the same product code! If you ask for a resistor of x ohms, you will get... a resistor! I found the only way to get the right one (unless you memorise the colour code or take the chart with you) is to ask them to check it with a multimeter before you buy it. Actually don't do that. Ask to borrow a multimeter to check it yourself because they probably don't know how to work a multimeter! I know that from experience :rolleyes:
 

El Capitan

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The guy was on work experience from school - what a joke - he then asked a few guys over who admitted they didn;t know anything about electronics :(

I knew exactly what I wanted, repeated it numerous times, told them I thought it was a 1.5Mohm resistor, but was told it was the right one I'd asked for.

Clowns...
 

El Capitan

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:crying:

Not until I get one of these uniBIOS chips into an AES! Until then the world is bad.

Jeff - I'm still slightly confused :( When I read how to do the piggyback, my first thought was "why not just cut the old BIOS off at the top of each leg and solder the socket onto the stumps." Would that work?

I have no intention to use the original BIOS, but I figured I might as well do things right. Basically I figured - just get the resistor and don't worry too much about the electronics.
 

JMKurtz

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The ideal solution is to put a socket in place so that when the UNI-BIOS is upgraded, you can just pop in the new version.

Whatever method you go with -- clean desolder removal, snipping off the old chip, or piggyback, use a socket and pretend it's the chip, then you at least have the socket in there.

But yeah, you can snip all the pins and then solder the socket in place. Not pretty, but effective.

If you're not quite sure what you're doing, since you're in the UK, perhaps you could ask MKL to install a socket for you?

Jeff
 
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