Easiest way to remove monitor from arcade cabinet

The picture tube in my Dynamo cab (1-slot MVS) is shot and needs to be replaced. I have the same monitor (WG 5000) in my T2 cab and I would like to switch them out. The T2 chassis is shot, but the tube is bright and clear and that is why I want to swap them out. Has anyone had any experience removing tubes that can give me any advice? The T2 is mounted horizontly, so I imagine the chances of dropping it is a bit more than the vertical mount in the Dynamo.

The only recomendations that I have for you is BE VERY CAREFUL!!!

I would recomend that you just take the 2 over to a TV repair place and have them do it. It will probably run you a $30 bench fee, but the know what their doing with this stuff. There is alot of electricity in these things and they are dangerous.

Good luck.

Thanks for the reply but unfortunately for me the electronics repair shops won't touch upright machines. I live in a large military town (Fort Bragg) and most of the businesses are pretty damn shady and just want our money for a half ass job. I also posted over on klov's board, so between these 2 places I know I will be able to get the swap done.

Well if you really want to do it, it is quite easy, but you may not get the results that your hoping for.

Most likely the tube (unless it is cracked anywhere) is not the problem on your Dynamo. But here are some simple instructions.

1) Take a picture of your connections (this is actually just for memory purposes. I blew out a monitor that I connected the power backwards on acident )

2) Make sure that your either A really careful with rubber handled tools or B wearing rubber gloves (this is important, I got zapped and passed out once just messing with a monitor, since then I always wear rubber gloves when tooling with monitors, even just adjusting the dials -- I think I may be overly cautious).

3) Make sure that the monitor has been removed from all power sources and discconnect it from the jamma output.

4) Make sure that your either A really careful with rubber handled tools or B wearing rubber gloves. Then remove the suction cup thing from the top back of the monitor (there are metal prongs under it like a christmas orniment, these are the most dangerous things).

5) Disconnet the flyback from the monitor (this may also be dangerous, but it is said to have no charge). This will include the neck connector and probably a few wires.

6) Now that this is done the most difficult part is over. Remove the cassis from the frame and then set it aside.

7) Follow steps 1 - 6 for the other monitor.

8) Now replace the chassis and screw it into the frame(put the good one on the the good tube).

9) Reconnect the flyback to the neck and then all the wires. (this is where that picture is most important, make sure EVERYTHING is the same)

10) Replace the suction cup thingy CAREFULLY.

11) I recomend that you do NOT connect this to the jamma, just the power to start (I shorted my MVS-1 slot out when I did this ) then see if it turns on.

12) If all looks good reconnect the RGB from the JAMMA and test it out.
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I do NOT really recomend this. Like I said, best bet is to have a pro do it. You CAN die from this, there is enough energy to do so. Be very careful if you do. Like I said, I got zapped and passed out for a min or two when I accidentally touched the wrong thing with a screw driver. If you do this and there is no difference you probably need a capacitor replacement kit.

Good luck.

Thanks for the step by step. I made a discharger from directions on therealbobroberts.com and it is actually used by a bunch of the guys on klov's board. I have a 12" flat tip screw driver with a 6' grounding strap on it to discharge to a ground. Anyway, a cap kit didn't work on the bad monitor. I got the colors back, but the screen is still very dark. Adjusting the "screen" setting on the flyback just washes the colors out. I was told that the tube was most likely venting gas and that is why the picture is still dark. I'm gonna try and get this done tonight. Again thanks and if you have any more advice please let me know.

Mattitude said:

Again thanks and if you have any more advice please let me know.

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Yes, I do, be careful

Anyways, you should really make sure you connect it all up together again properly so that you don't short anything. I learned that the hard way. My current monitor is a frankenstein so I have done a bit of replacing and swaping parts.

The tube was almost new, the flyback is a replacement, the chasis is a replacement, the wire harness are replacements, the frame is a replacement. Not fun, and it did not save me any money (like I thought it would).

Good luck

Believe me, I have no desire to get a nasty shock! Unfortunately for me the closest place that will even give me the time of day for repairs (they did my cap kit) is in SC and I have to schedule when to go down there and have to take the day off...a bit difficult to do since I am active duty Air Force. Plus I can only take 1 cabinet at a time and a new 25" monitor will run me 400.00 + the installation. They are good guys, but it's a road trip to get there and I hate to force my schedule on them. I'll be sure to unhook my JAMMA connector and everything else from my MVS-1 before I power back up. BTW, when I do power back up what should I see on the screen if there is no video source connected? I just need to know what I should be (or not be) seeing. Thanks!

Mattitude said:

...I am active duty Air Force.
...BTW, when I do power back up what should I see on the screen if there is no video source connected? I just need to know what I should be (or not be) seeing. Thanks!

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Coast Guard active duty here, so I know how difficult it can be sometimes to go places. I live on the Belle Chasse AFB

Your other question: It should come back on. Basically you will see black. This is just so that if it shorts out you only have to replace your monitor, not a MVS board as well (like I had to )