Just got a power supply in the mail..... still need some help bad!!

NGT

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Dscn5325.jpg


I have no idea how to hope this up :(

VVV sorry about the blurry picture but it was the best out of like six tries...


Dscn5329.jpg



Anyone have any idea what type of power supply this is or what could find a manual for it?

The guy said he used it for a Naomi setup.....
 
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Yodd

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that looks like a PC ATX (maybe a 1U rack style?) power supply to me.


You can see a pinout of the ATX motherboard connector HERE


I would say he used it with a Naomi since it supplies the 3.3v that it needs.

Edit: It would be pretty easy to use this with a SuperGun type setup. Just buy a ATX harness extension and hack off the opposite end and then attach your wires for +5, +12 -5 (and if you need +3.3). Then attach a switch to the pins that that guide shows you. I have done this and it works fine. Though sometimes the power provided from a typical PC powersupply isn't very exact. Like the +5 might actually be closer to 5.2 and +12 might be 11.9....stuff like that.
 
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NGT

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Thanks for the link!!! :buttrock:


I was planning on using this within ST-V setup some day... I hope I can still do that.
 

norton9478

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I have one of those... My wires are a different color tho....


It outpusts everything you need.
 

NGT

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All right, I have looked at mine again and the cords and stuff looks nothing like the one in the picture inside that link.

Mine has no power switch on it and a small switch that has the numbers 115 on one side and 230 on the other.

On the cords coming out of it,

the biggest one says PS 1
the next biggest one says PS 2
and there's a smaller one that says PS 3

then there is another plug coming out,

It says P1 and in the middle of that small group of wires leading to that connector that is another connector that says C. D. D.

On another plug coming out,

it says F. D. D. and on this one there are two connectors that are spaced out along the group of wires between the power supply and the end that say H. D. D. on both of them..



I'm really new at arcade power supplies and am guessing I should have just gone with the regular one with the screws on it but I have this one sitting here and that rather not let it go to waste or bother reselling it because it does have a lot of options I believe.

If anyone could spare the time to explain all of this crap, I would really appreciate it....

Thanks!!
 

MKL

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That's obviously not a PC ATX power supply. The bigger connector is a 14-pin single row while ATX has 20-pin dual row. Also, the amps on +5v (16A) and +12V (5A) are way too low for a PC PSU (but enough for arcade stuff!) and so is the total wattage (only120W).

The main problem (if it doesn't have a power switch as you say) is how to power it up. One of the connectors must be the AC wires but none of those I see in the pic looks like one: you'd expect black /white (and green) or brown/blue (and yellow-green) as AC wires.

I would open the case and take a look at the inside as there will be markings for the various wires and the AC line will probably be fused, so it shouldn't be difficult to find out which wire is which. If you take a good pic of the board maybe I can help you...
 

Yodd

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MKL said:
That's obviously not a PC ATX power supply. The bigger connector is a 14-pin single row while ATX has 20-pin dual row. Also, the amps on +5v (16A) and +12V (5A) are way too low for a PC PSU (but enough for arcade stuff!) and so is the total wattage (only120W).

It IS a PC power supply, just not standard ATX (like I first thought).

Its a proprietary HP power supply from a Vectra Desktop.

link

I would imagine its still similiar to an ATX with one pin on the harness being a turn on pin.
 

NGT

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So basically it's crap and I should go find something better?

Or will this one work?


I don't want to mess up any of arcade boards because of a $25 power supply.
 

MKL

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broken said:
It IS a PC power supply, just not standard ATX (like I first thought).

Its a proprietary HP power supply from a Vectra Desktop.[/QB]


If we're talking Pentium I or II, yes.

broken said:
I would imagine its still similiar to an ATX with one pin on the harness being a turn on pin.

I agree (also considering the absence of an AC connector), most likely it's the green wire on the bigger connector: shorting that to ground should power it up.
 

Yodd

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MKL said:

I agree (also considering the absence of an AC connector), most likely it's the green wire on the bigger connector: shorting that to ground should power it up.

I was thinking the exact same thing.
 

Yodd

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NGT said:
I don't want to mess up any of arcade boards because of a $25 power supply.

No, it should work, you just need to locate the power on pin.

I would just plug the power cord in and not attach anything to the board (device wise). Then short a wire between a ground (should be a black wire on the wide connector) to the green wire on the wide connector. The psu should power up and you would see the fan start spinning.

Then you can start probing the wide connector with a multimeter to figure out which pin is voltage; though I imagine the wiring colour should match up with the voltage from that link earlier.


Its useable, just little more leg work is required.
 

NGT

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I knew I couldn't get around buying a multi Meter forever :(


Yeah, I know :shame: you shouldn't do any of this work without one from the first place..... but I have built three super gun's and one consolized 1 slot... without one and have had no problems at all.

I am starting to think I would have been better off just getting this one......

71_1.JPG


It would probably be much cheaper than barring the multimedia and all the connectors..... :(
 
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NGT

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Also, what the heck are all the other wires for if I can get everything off of the PS 1?
 

norton9478

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like you broken, I finally broke down and bought a multimeter.... I made my first SG without one.

Once you start using a multimeter, you will not know how you got along without one... Plus when your using expensive arcade boards on any untested system... a multimeter can prevent problems...

From the way you describe it... I have the same exact powersupply and love it.... Did yo get yours on ebay from a coin-op biz in md?

Almost every pc has this color scheme

Black-0v
Red -5V
Yelo -12+

the 5- can change from systemt o system
 

norton9478

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one other thing.....

This PSU (or the one I own) will not power up unless there is something there drawing power...... If you just plug it in once, the fan will do about 3 rotations and it will power down.

I was thinking about running the +12 and +5 througe a Dual pole toggle to use as the power, for now, I just plug it in and unplugg it.
 

NGT

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thanks :)

So how many of these plugs that are coming out of this thing do you actually use?


Also, I believe my local electronics store will have a 3p-st toggle switch because I would like to get the -5v in there.
 
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Yodd

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NGT said:
thanks :)

So how many of these plugs that are coming out of this thing do you actually use?


Also, I believe my local electronics store will have a 3p-st toggle switch because I would like to get the -5v in there.

Everything you need is available from that wide connector. Ignore all the other cables and connectors (bunch them all up and put a tie strap around them).


Looking at the wiring, the colour and voltage scheme should be like this:

Orange: 3.3v
Red: 5v
Yellow: 12v
White: -5v
Black: Ground
Green: Turn on wire


Connect a SPST switch to the Green wire and ground. When the switch is flipped, the PSU will power up and all the outputs should be live and the fan on it should start spinning.

No need running each voltage though a switch.


An inexpensive multimeter will make this all much easier.
 

norton9478

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mine runs whenever plugged in........

The only green wire is not grounded.....

Maybe the guy i bought it off of grounded that from the inside.
 

NGT

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Thank you for the information.... but I just got an e-mail from the guy who sold it to me and in case anyone interested is the layout...

MAKE SURE THE 115 220V SWITCH ON THE BACK IS SET FOR 115V. THE POWER SUPPLY NEEDS TO BE CONNECTED TO A LOAD TO WORK.
HERE ARE THE OUTPUT VOLTAGES WITH CORRESPONDING COLORS

RED ON CONNECTORS P1, HDD, PS1 +5VDC

BLACK ALL CONNECTORS GROUND

YELLOW CONNECTORS HDD, P1, PS1 +12 VDC

BRN CONNECTORS PS2 & PS3 -5VDC

IMPORTANT !!!
THE WHITE AND BLUE WIRES ON CONNECTOR PS1 ARE THE SWITCH WIRES. THEY NEED TO BE CONNECTED TO A ON/OFF SWITCH OR SHORTED TOGETHER IF NO SWITCH IS DESIRED.
 
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MKL

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The brown wires (five!) would be -5V? PC PSU's have just one -5v wire. This is very suspect...If I were you I'd open the case and read the voltages near every group of wires.
 

norton9478

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well i just got mine out and messed around....

I thought that the Blue/white might be the switch... didn't get that far...

I would definatly check the brown psII and PS III wires...... ON my NEARLY IDENTICAL supply, the non-ground PS II and PS III wires are 3.3 v........ and they are brown also....

My -5 came detached but is PURPLE and i belive that it came off the PS 1 connector....

Since the only difference between our supplies is the color of the wires... I would bet that the brown (color other than ground) on the PS II and PSIII is the same also 3.3 v.

I would get a multimeter.... and don't hook up your stv first thing... hoook up something cheaper.
 

Yodd

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I just picked up a mini-atx psu from a local store for $5 (hehehe) and it uses a standard ATX 20 pin connector.


But, the wiring colour doesn't match with typical wiring colour on an ATX supply. But all the voltages are present in the proper locations on the harness. So it works fine, but you can't go by wire colouring alone.


I highly suggest buying a multimeter before you do anything with that PSU.
 

norton9478

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I just re wired my blue and white "switch" wires through an on switch... works nice...
 
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