SSFIIT A+B board, any way to get them apart?

I just picked up a Super Street Fighter II Turbo B board with an A board attached. It had the clips and mounting feet also. I gave it a quick look over before I bought it and everything seemed to be in very good shape.

So I get home with the thing and take a closer look at it, I notice that in the upper right corner of the board where there is a hole, that there's a pin holding the A and B boards together. From looking at it there is no way to get if off, the top is rounded and the bottom is round with a C in the center.

My question is, is there a way to get them apart without damaging the boards? or was this Capcoms way of making sure the A and B boards stayed together for some reason?

Any help is appreciated.

BTW, the arcade op told me the board had been sitting for 2 or 3 years, with such an old game I assumed it would be dead, but for the price he offered it to me at I couldn't resist.

I hope to make the board suicide free but if it won't detach from the A board somehow I'm screwed.

i know what ur talking about a few years ago i was in cex (a famous computer exchange shop in england) and they had a cps2 board of ssf2 a and b, i was gonna buy it but i noticed that they were attached together i asked the sales guy why and he reconed that capcom initialy released there first cps2 boards like that. so i guess thats the reason, maybe he was wrong i dunno but i have seen the exact same thing though.

the cheif ask kyo geo he is probably the best person too tell you why you have that problem......

The Chief said:

I notice that in the upper right corner of the board where there is a hole, that there's a pin holding the A and B boards together. From looking at it there is no way to get if off, the top is rounded and the bottom is round with a C in the center.

My question is, is there a way to get them apart without damaging the boards? or was this Capcoms way of making sure the A and B boards stayed together for some reason?

Click to expand...

It can't be what you say because the B-boards are meant to be swapped...

The metal seal is present on both A and B boards (later B-boards don't have it though) and is meant to prevent the opening of the plastic housings (which voids warranty). If you look at the boardset with the A- and the B-board attached together it looks like there is a single seal that keeps A+B together, but in fact it's not. Just pull the two boards apart which are only held together by the connectors.

Re: Re: SSFIIT A+B board, any way to get them apart?

MKL said:

It can't be what you say because the B-boards are meant to be swapped...

The metal seal is present on both A and B boards (later B-boards don't have it though) and is meant to prevent the opening of the plastic housings (which voids warranty). If you look at the boardset with the A- and the B-board attached together it looks like there is a single seal that keeps A+B together, but in fact it's not. Just pull the two boards apart which are only held together by the connectors.

Click to expand...

Thats what I thought too, but when I tried to seperate them they seemed to be connected quite tightly. I didn't want to damage/break the boards but I'll give it another go later tonight.

I also noticed this on one of my games, I could not remove the game.......mabey this is the same for you.

Look at the chrome pin on the side of the Puzz Loop2 game, I had to pull that chrome pin out before the top board would come off.



There are 2 of those chrome pins that came with my Kit, that is what is probably keeping you from separating your game?

Robert Wallace said:

I also noticed this on one of my games, I could not remove the game.......mabey this is the same for you.

Look at the chrome pin on the side of the Puzz Loop2 game, I had to pull that chrome pin out before the top board would come off.

There are 2 of those chrome pins that came with my Kit, that is what is probably keeping you from separating your game?

Click to expand...

Robert, I think you're talking about the A/B clips.

If you look at your pic you'll see a hole at the top you your B board, it's located in the upper lefthand section, it goes through the A and B boards. That's whats holding my boards together.

on the left and right side of both boards there will be clips. These can be pulled out. Once out the boards will come apart. Note that it may take some force to get the boards apart after the clips are removed.

Raz

Well there is a trick for getting them apart without too much violence but I can't seem to recal how. :P

I'm not talking about the sides with the A+B clips. I'm talking about the round hole at the top, left hand corner of both the A and B board, that's where the bar is holding them together. I'll have to take a pic of it tomorrow...

Ahh...

Ok....

The bar you are talking about _DOES NOT_ hold both 'a' and 'b' boards together (at least from all the cps2 pcbs I have seen and thats allot). The bar is simpy used as a method to stop one from opening the case to get access to the game pcb.

Raz

The metal Capcom C pin you're talking about is present on some top boards and motherboards. It is an extra part of the "void if removed" waranty stuff. I have never seen a complete set that has one of these pins actually connecting the boards together - to my knowledge such a thing doesn't exist. It may simply appear that way because both boards have one of these security pins.

Anyways, as others have said, remove the clips from the sides and simply prise the boards apart. You will find the corners of the boardset is the best place to get leverage, just go round and work each corner loose a little before pulling them apart. You really shouldn't worry about damaging your boards as the connectors are very sturdy. The boards may be very stiff and may creak a lot as you prise them apart, but just go for it. Once you get them apart you will see that it is physically practically impossible to damage CPS2 boards by (dis)connecting them due to the size of the board connectors.

Once you go to take the prog roms off that top board to send to Raz you will have to remove that security pin to get inside. There is no easy way to do this, especially without scuffing the plastic case quite a lot. You just have to go at the pin with a pair of long nosed pliars and rip it out. Also, be careful when removing those prog roms as the pins bend fairly easily. Slowly prise them out with a sturdy knife or something similar, lifting up one side a little and then the other, being careful not to gain leverage on any breakable components. Patience is the key. Expect to have to carefully bend some pins back into place once you're done, especially the end ones. Just do everything slowly and the pins should hold. If the worst happens and a pin breaks off, try using some solder to fashion a new pin. I had to do exactly this with a game I sent to Raz, but the rom reprogrammed with no problems.

Hope that helps!

I think he is refering to this;




Its just a longer type of bolt (bar)with nut and can easily be remove.
From the looks of it, they look like A+B locked together but they are not.
(The hole postion looks the same.)

They are separate, one bolt and nut for A board and another for B board as seen in the picture above.
Unless somebody buy a extra long bolt and lock both board together which I don't think so.

The bolt is some sort of (warranty) as once you try to open the PCB, the nut(C in the centre) will be damage with some marks.

Theres no way you can remove it without damaging the nut(C in the centre).
Thats the reason alot of the boards does not comes with the bolt and nuts.

Hope its helps.

Spectre said:

Once you go to take the prog roms off that top board to send to Raz you will have to remove that security pin to get inside. There is no easy way to do this, especially without scuffing the plastic case quite a lot. You just have to go at the pin with a pair of long nosed pliars and rip it out.

Click to expand...

Whoa! Damage those uber cool plastic cases??? Fool...

I strongly advise everyone to NOT follow the method suggested above (unless you don't give a shit about the integrity of your carts). In order to remove the metal seal without ruining the plastic I have devised the following technique: I drill a small hole at the centre of the seal. Next I take a screw and screw it in the hole until it's halfway in. Then I take the pliers and pull the screw out which comes off together with the seal. Before pulling I put a few drops of lube in between the seal and the plastic.

Heh. I guess this is a question of gamer vs anal collector. Unless you buy cps2 kits, you'll be lucky to get your hands on many cps2 boards without at least the odd scrape or dent in the case. Especially older games like ssf2. If you're a proper collector you have no business removing security seals anyway. A few scrapes to the plastic case in the process of removing the secuirty pin won't bother many gamers.

And thanks for calling me a fool, friend.

The seals serve no purpose any longer. They were only put their for warrent purposes and as CPS-2 boards no longer have a warrenty there is no need to worry about damage caused to the seal. I can understand about worrying aout damage to the case when trying to remove the metal seal though. The screw idea is simple and very effective I would say. Luckly most of the newer games never had the seal in the first place so there is no nead to worry about it.

Raz

MKL said:

Whoa! Damage those uber cool plastic cases??? Fool...

I strongly advise everyone to NOT follow the method suggested above (unless you don't give a shit about the integrity of your carts). In order to remove the metal seal without ruining the plastic I have devised the following technique: I drill a small hole at the centre of the seal. Next I take a screw and screw it in the hole until it's halfway in. Then I take the pliers and pull the screw out which comes off together with the seal. Before pulling I put a few drops of lube in between the seal and the plastic.

Click to expand...

Yeah, it can be done without destroying the plastic. Here is the technique I used. I held the sides of the flat head of the pin with small needle-nose pliers (which isn't easy, as there is very little room). Then I punched the center of the head. Then I used a small drill bit to start a hole. Then I gradually stepped up bit sizes. I had to hold the pin with the pliers the entire time; otherwise, the pin would spin freely with the drill. Eventually the head will seperate from the rest of the pin, and you can pull the rest of the pin out from the other side.

The poster is asking if the seal is holding his A+B together, it's not. Probably you have a set of clips on the site, the chrome ones, that are holding the boards together.

Alternatively, if you want to open up the game cart, you can leave the seal. Unscrew the torx with a small flathead. You can leave the seal, and get out the board, if you have pry something in between the casing.

Worked for me on Sfz3 and DDSom boards

- Alex