N64 RGB mod problem

Wachenroder · Mar 9, 2015

Used the retrorgb amp.

Tested on a pvm1954q

Problem is picture is green. Not sure what the problem could be. I used 75 ohm resistors.

Don't know anything about composite sync or sync strippers. Bought the scart cable from a member on here so I imagine whatever needed to be done was already added but can't be sure. Ill hit em up to verify but until then, does anyone have an idea of what's going on?

I have one guess. A little solder fell between the 2 pins on the vdc chip or whatever. I cleaned it best I could and it doesn't appear to be shorting but again I'm not certain.

I'll take pics if that'll help.

Thanks for whatever help u can give me.

mikejmoffitt · Mar 10, 2015

Is there any red or blue at all?

Wachenroder · Mar 10, 2015

Doesn't look like it.

Also I should have said this earlier but I modded this before the SCART cable arrived and tested the N64 via Y/C and that was pretty much the same. Green.

I soldered it from the bottom (I tried to solder it to the chip itself but its too damn small and didn't feel comfortable) so maybe that has something to do with it?

Edit: So do you think the R and B are not connected properly?

Xian Xi · Mar 10, 2015

Are you sure the serial N64 you have can be RGB modded with just an amp and not one of the serials that would require viletim's PCB?

Wachenroder · Mar 10, 2015

Xian Xi said:
Are you sure the serial N64 you have can be RGB modded with just an amp and not one of the serials that would require viletim's PCB?

Going by the retrorgb guide, it should be correct. VDC-NUS A. NS1 serial number.

Atro · Mar 10, 2015

Test it in composite first.

You should doube, triple check that solder that fell.
Could you send a pic where the RGB lines are soldered?

Wachenroder · Mar 10, 2015

Atro said:
Test it in composite first.

You should doube, triple check that solder that fell.
Could you send a pic where the RGB lines are soldered?

Is the yellow BNC cable composite?

I'll try that then in a few hours I'll crack it open and take some pics.

Atro · Mar 10, 2015

I din't mean to use composite on the PVM but on a TV. Just to rule out some issues.
I don't have a PVM (yet!) so I can't tell about that part.

But I'm rather looking for the R & B colors as the issue. Are you sure they're connected to the right spot/pins?

fremen · Mar 10, 2015

Hi,

Wachenroder said:
Going by the retrorgb guide, it should be correct. VDC-NUS A. NS1 serial number.

So you don't need the viletim board to create the RGB signal. But the green seem to be an issue of sync, do you do the sync modification?? Cutting the pin 9 trace and joining pin9 and pin3 on the video port.

Un saludo

Wachenroder · Mar 10, 2015

Atro said:
I din't mean to use composite on the PVM but on a TV. Just to rule out some issues.
I don't have a PVM (yet!) so I can't tell about that part.

But I'm rather looking for the R & B colors as the issue. Are you sure they're connected to the right spot/pins?

On the pvm? Yeah my Saturn is working fine so the connections are good.

I'll test composite on a CRT later on then.

fremen said:
Hi,

So you don't need the viletim board to create the RGB signal. But the green seem to be an issue of sync, do you do the sync modification?? Cutting the pin 9 trace and joining pin9 and pin3 on the video port.

Un saludo

viletim board is the RetroRGB amp? I guess I don't need it but it was recommended and since i'm not really familiar with this mod, I just followed directions.

Also, no I didn't cut anything. I just followed the directions on the RetroRGB site.

http://retrorgb.com/n64rgbmod.html

I didn't see anything about joining pin 9 and pin 3.

The directions basically said solder the amp to the AV out. Wire the RGB on the amp to RGB on the MOBO. Put 75 ohm resistors in between. That's it.

Edit: This one (I should have gotten the THS7314DR as its much cheaper but by the time I realized it was too late)

https://squareup.com/market/retrorgb/retrorgb-amp-for-snes-n

fremen · Mar 10, 2015

Hi,

The viletim board only is needed for N64's that doesn't have the VDC-NUS video DAC.

This is the sync issue that I refered

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/nintendo/rgbntsc.htm#link83

Un saludo

Atro · Mar 10, 2015

Wachenroder said:
On the pvm? Yeah my Saturn is working fine so the connections are good.

What about inside the N64? everything checks good?

Wachenroder · Mar 10, 2015

Atro said:
What about inside the N64? everything checks good?

Im about to crack it open. Also I just tested the composite video and it gets green and red.

Atro · Mar 11, 2015

Composite shouldn't do that. All signals are processed through a single cable.
It leads me to thinks something is not right with the encoder.
Check for bridged contacts on the video signals, PPU, etc.

Composite gives you a crappy picture, but it shouldn't by any means be only greenish.

Wachenroder · Mar 11, 2015

Atro said:
Composite shouldn't do that. All signals are processed through a single cable.
It leads me to thinks something is not right with the encoder.
Check for bridged contacts on the video signals, PPU, etc.

Composite gives you a crappy picture, but it shouldn't by any means be only greenish.

Yeah I was testing Mario 64 and it was green and red. I redid it and I guess I messed up because I tried it again and lost the red. Tried again and one of the metal pads came off. Fuck this thing I'm going to try again with the THS7314DR. Hopefully going that route will resolve the issue.

If I have any problems with that i'll bump the thread.

Thanks for the help.

Xian Xi · Mar 11, 2015

The retroRGB amp uses the THS7314.

Wachenroder · Mar 11, 2015

Xian Xi said:
The retroRGB amp uses the THS7314.

What you need to use both?

This is getting confusing.

RetroRectalGrabBoy · Mar 11, 2015

If you soldered the RGB points at the bottom of the board and are getting video issues, the problem is most likely that the wires stuck through the motherboard and are touching the chip on the other side. I suggest desoldering the three wires that are attached to the motherboard and trying composite video again. If there's still a video problem, it's possible something got damaged. I've never had one of the chips go bad, but it's always possible it was damaged in shipping too (I'd just send you another). Can you take pictures of the installation?

Also, feel free to email me if you need help...I try to check out the forums at least once a day, but sometimes I just don't have time.

kahel · Mar 11, 2015

I had the same problem with the same RGB amp but for me it was all red with no blue or green. I just resoldered the Blue and Green wire (soldering to the bottom is a little tricky) and it worked . It seem like your red and blue wire are not soldered properly to the bottom of the board.

ggallegos1 · Mar 11, 2015

Wachenroder said:
What you need to use both?

This is getting confusing.

I actually asked Voultar about this. He's modding my N64 and is waiting on a shipment of THS7314 components. Email him to see if he'd send you one.

mikejmoffitt · Mar 11, 2015

You can do a test by running the original RGB signals without the amp. It will be dim, but it can show you if the outputs are working correctly.

Wachenroder · Mar 11, 2015

RetroRGB said:
If you soldered the RGB points at the bottom of the board and are getting video issues, the problem is most likely that the wires stuck through the motherboard and are touching the chip on the other side. I suggest desoldering the three wires that are attached to the motherboard and trying composite video again. If there's still a video problem, it's possible something got damaged. I've never had one of the chips go bad, but it's always possible it was damaged in shipping too (I'd just send you another). Can you take pictures of the installation?

Also, feel free to email me if you need help...I try to check out the forums at least once a day, but sometimes I just don't have time.

Hey didn't know yo were a member here.

Anyway I doubt the problem was the wire passing all the way through. In the guide, it says specifically to make sure the tips are extremely short so I made it a point to make sure I kept them short (It was hard). I already undid everything so its too late to take pics.

I'll send you a message.

RetroRectalGrabBoy · Mar 11, 2015

Okay, cool.

Also, Mike's idea for testing is good as well...I forgot you were using a PVM, so you can do that (just turn the brightness all the way up). If you were using an upscaler, you'd usually just get a black screen without an amp.

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