PVM tech Help
- Thread starter Xian Xi
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Is this just through the rgb inputs or all inputs?
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I only tested the RGB one (DB25). It's a PVM 2530. I'll check the others.
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If it's just the rgb input, you may need to check the diodes on the inside the pvm. It's a big hassle to take apart the pvm and get to it though.
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Only if you feel adventurous. It's a daunting task to recap a pvm. One more thing. When the rgb input blew, it took a few of the TTL chips with it so you may want to desolder some of them and check them if you have that function on your eprom reader.
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Got it. This already sucks.
ApolloBoy
Edo Express Delivery Guy
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A hackneyed attempt at having proper SCART autoswitching perhaps?
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12v gets you a 4:3 aspect ratio. Oddly enough 5v gives you 16:9.
segasonicfan
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That sounds all kinds of no fun. However, the S-video working is really promising. A lot of the stuff in a PVM is analog, you might get away with running sync into your Luma input and RGB in the others and getting something up. Probably going to have to solder that past the switching chip (might just be an MUX, but probably a Sony brand video switching IC). That will probably a lot easier than hunting down what TTL chips blew.
PVMs can be easy to work on once you take them apart. I found a lot of chips for my 29" had datasheets online and pinouts were easy to get a hold of. Bless those analog monitors !
-Segasonicfan
PVMs can be easy to work on once you take them apart. I found a lot of chips for my 29" had datasheets online and pinouts were easy to get a hold of. Bless those analog monitors !
-Segasonicfan
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Finally done. I just shotguned anything attached to the sync line; TTLs, transistors and diodes. The 12v burned the trace off the board and arced and hit the one next to it, luckily I didn't have it on too long as the diodes did their job but the heat damaged two diodes, didn't check the TTLs(will do that later), just replaced them since the PVM was made in 1990. Once everything was put back together, picture was back.
When I opened the back of the PVM, that is a LOT of caps, fuck that...lol
Thanks a bunch Dean for the help.
When I opened the back of the PVM, that is a LOT of caps, fuck that...lol
Thanks a bunch Dean for the help.
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Oh and the actual repair only took about 30 minutes total of disassembly, swap and reassembly. Since I had to move a few things to get to the PVM and had to swing it around I ended up cleaning my work room since I'm Filipino I can't just leave the dust on the ground, had to clean it up then ended up rearranging shit.
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Yep, my first monitor repair and cap kit in High School was an older 2030...
segasonicfan
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segasonicfan
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That sounds like a degauss issue. That should get fixed whenever you unplug and plug in the monitor (and turn it on).
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Did that many times. Even the previous owner had the same problem in that corner, that's why I was pleasantly surprised that it was gone.