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shadows
12-26-2013, 02:44 AM
Seeing as people often ask as to which tools they should buy or look into. I thought it would be good to have a list of good tools to have in your arsenal for arcade repairs or just general electronics.
If you have any recommendations, post them up and I'll add them to list.

Hand Tools.


Crimpers :
- Hozan P-706 (http://www.hozan.co.jp/E/catalog/Crimpers/P706.html)

Wire strippers :
- Xcelite SAS3210 self-adjusting 32-10 AWG

A time saver for making harnesses.


Soldering.


Desoldering :
- CirCuitSpecialists CSI474 Desoldering Station (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi474a.html)
- HAKKO 808 desoldering gun (http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_808.html)
- Edsyn DS017 Deluxe Soldapullt Desoldering Pump (http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=DS017)

Soldering :
- Edsyn 951SX LONER Temperature Controlled Soldering Station (http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=951SX)
- Weller WES51 soldering station (http://www.apexhandtools.com/brands/cf_files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103191311)
- Power Probe PPSK Butane Soldering Kit
- Pro Charge Cordless Rechargeable Soldering Iron
- Weller PSI100K Portasol Super-pro Self-igniting Cordless Butane Soldering Iron Kit (http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/portable/psi100k.htm)

Multi/rework stations :
- GQ electronics 5200 hot air and soldering rework station (http://www.gqelectronicsllc.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4393)
- CircuitSpecialists CSI825A Hot Air Station (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi825a.html)

Supplies :
- Solder Kester #50/245 SN63PB37 .020 2463378807
- Solder Kester 44 SN60PB40

Accessories :
- HAKKO 599B (Brass wire tip cleaner) (http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_599b.html)

A much better option for cleaning the tip of your iron than the standard damp sponge.



Test & Measurement.


Multimeters :

- Fluke 87V Digital Multimeter
- MS8261 DIGITAL MULTIMETER
- TekPower TP4000ZC
- Tektronix DMM914
- UNI-T UT-61E Digital Multimeter

Test Instruments :
- Logic Probe Elenco Electronics LP-560 (http://www.elenco.com/product/productdetails/logic_probes_&_pulsers=NjQ=/logic_probe=MjQ4)
- ESR Meter ESR-micro v4.0s (http://www.radiodevices.info/esr/esr4.htm)

Russian made, should be available on eBay.
- Oscilloscope OWON SDS7102V 100MHz 1GS/s 10Mpt 2-Ch DSO (http://www.owon.com.hk/products_info.asp?ProID=172#sthash.6AwOg5bm.dpbs)
- Oscilloscope Tektronix 2225 50MHz Analog 2-Ch (Discontinued)
- Oscilloscope SIGLENT SHS810 Handheld 100MHz 1GS/s 2Mpt (http://www.siglent.eu/shs810-100mhz.html)




Programmers :
- EETools Chipmax (http://www.eetools.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=304)

Only does 40 or fewer pin eproms
- EETools Topmax2 (http://www.eetools.com/index.cfm/product/300/topmax2.cfm)

Expensive but very good.
- TOP2049 Universal USB Programmer
- Wellon VP-280 (http://www.weilei.com/vp-280e.htm) (Discontinued)

Great programmer if you can get your hands on one.


Misc.


- EPROM Eraser BK Precision 851 Deluxe EPROM Eraser (http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bkprecision.com%2Fproducts%2F device-programmers%2Feprom-erasers%2F851-deluxe-eprom-eraser.html&ei=CfbCUpvUCdKNkAfsrIA4&usg=AFQjCNE4oWnp2Isk8dm5EY9RSNBR7rt2lA&bvm=bv.58187178,d.eW0)
- EPROM Eraser Vilber Lourmat VLE-12T (Discontinued)
- Vacuum pickup Aoyue 932 Vacuum Pickup Station


Power Supplies.


- Agilent / HP E3610A 0-8Volt 0-3Amp, 0-15Volt 0-2Amp Bench Power Supply (Discontinued)
- Agilent / HP E3614A 0-8Volt 0-6Amp Bench Power Supply (Discontinued)
- CSI3005SM 0-30 Volt 0-5 Amp Bench Power Supply (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi3005sm.html)


Chemicals.


Cleaners :
- Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA)
- DexoIT DN5

Great cleaner for those 20 years old oxidized contacts.

Dion
12-26-2013, 02:52 AM
I made a video a little more than a year ago that dealt with the tools I tend to use often:

qoI3O-n72wo

I also have these programmers:

Cheap WILLEM
Chipmax (only does 40 or fewer pin eproms)
Topmax2 (expensive but very good)

xsq
12-26-2013, 08:16 AM
thanks guys!

Xian Xi
12-26-2013, 02:28 PM
I really want to get an oscope but every time I ask people what specs I should be looking for to deal with pre-Y2K arcade games I get no answers.

shadows
12-26-2013, 10:39 PM
Depends on how much you want to pay, but you get old analog oscilloscopes for cheap. 50mhz would be plenty good, like an old Tektronix 2225. Those analog scopes are massive though.

Xian Xi
12-26-2013, 11:04 PM
Depends on how much you want to pay, but you get old analog oscilloscopes for cheap. 50mhz would be plenty good, like an old Tektronix 2225. Those analog scopes are massive though.

Are those small digital ones any good?

shadows
12-26-2013, 11:39 PM
If you mean those small ones that look like phone, then no. The sampling rate makes them pretty much useless.

Tyranix95
12-27-2013, 12:24 AM
Other thing's I've found useful:

de-soldering braid/wick, liquid flux, Q-Tips, and a good de-greaser. :D

Tyranix95
12-27-2013, 12:34 AM
- ESR Meter ESR-micro v4.0s (http://www.radiodevices.info/esr/esr4.htm)

Russian made, should be available on eBay.
[/INDENT]




What does this do?

mainman
12-27-2013, 12:38 AM
I really want to get an oscope but every time I ask people what specs I should be looking for to deal with pre-Y2K arcade games I get no answers.

Funny you should ask this question Xian as I have just got a handle on your question recently.

Ok let me start by mentioning my mistake. First and foremost I needed a handheld DSO. I researched a little and stumbled across a DSO 1060 made by a company called hantek. It advertises a 60 mega hertz bandwidth despite it only having 150ms/s sample. It was delivered and I gave it a try, the damn thing was only good up to 5 mega hertzs after which the aliasing made it unusable. The only good thing I could say about it was being able to use the mulimeter in scope mode although the multimeter itself wasn't all that great with it slow continuity and capacitance check.

Ok lesson learned, I returned and bought a SHS810
http://www.siglent.eu/shs810-100mhz.html

It is a 100 megahertz scope with a very vital 1GS/S sample rate. It also has 2mpt of memory depth. It also of course has a built in multimeter feature and even data logging. Battery life has been 4 hour continuous.

When you are shopping for a scope what you need to be concerned about other than obviously its bandwidth is sample rate and memory depth, I can not stress this enough.

With modern DSO when you input a analog signal that signal must be converted by the DSO and the real time sample rate determines how accurate that conversion is. Lets say your analyzing a 20 meg analog signal. Now the rule of thumb is that the sample rate must be at least 10 times the analog signal under test. So basically in order for that 20 meg analog signal to be displayed correctly you would need a real time sample rate of 200 megahertz to avoid aliasing. Danger never never never take the Equivalent sampling rate manufacturer advertise as gospel because ETS is always shit. Keep in mind that if your scope is a dual or more channel the sample rate will be divided among all the channels in use

Memory depth is so so important also. The size of the buffer memory determines how long it can capture a signal IN DETAIL before the memory is full. Lets say your doing digital trouble shooting on a 20 meg signal and there is a glitch somewhere you need to capture. What memory depth does is allow you to capture as many 20 meg cycles as possible in a period of time lets say 1ms for a example. The higher the memory depth the higher the details.

The vast majority of arcade gear is going to be in the 15-30Mhz range. Personally if your going to drop the money you might want to future proof for other electronics and go bare minimum 50Mhz range. Stick to a 1Gs/s sample rate if your scope is in the 100Mhz range and 500Ms/s if its a 50Mhz scope.

Now if you want a bench DSO the RIGOLS have a very very good reputation, good spec, performance and reliability so say damn near the whole eevblog and the amazon reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VKCJ0M/ref=s9_simh_gw_p328_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-4&pf_rd_r=0X4E37R71JVAR75N1VB9&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200422&pf_rd_i=507846


Both of the scopes I mentioned will handle everything you can throw at them but keep in mind the channels are not isolated so if your playing around with high voltages/currents be mindful that your two test point MUST share a common ground.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/niceguy60/41ZeGQ5nF7L_zps1a2d0e34.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/niceguy60/media/41ZeGQ5nF7L_zps1a2d0e34.jpg.html)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/niceguy60/41ykqIQ7HGL_zpsa576f22d.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/niceguy60/media/41ykqIQ7HGL_zpsa576f22d.jpg.html)



If you have a grand to spend the SHS1102 or SHS1062 would be the best choice as both channel are isolated.
9902



If you do a lot of surface mount work and have the cash to spare this tool will also come in handy

Hakko 394
9887




This right here is on my wish list and the only reason I have not bought one yet is because I put priority on my scope. I do a TON of surface mount work and my eyes just can't take it anymore which is why a PCB inspection system is a must buy for me and anyone else who does surface mount work on 100 pin plus IC'S. Hopefully I will get a refund this year.

Aoyue 638 PCB Inspection system
9891



A multimeter is a must have tool but even the name brand units from the major manufacturers are no substitution for a good LCR meter. The DE-5000 is also on my wish list as my cheapo unit does not have the accuracy.

DE-5000 Handheld LCR Meter
9892


A function generator is useful for experiments
This one is PC based
HantekŪ 1025G
9898
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKV802I/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a pocket generator
Velleman HPG1
9899
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YTWMZW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28PU14GQTJ9IX&coliid=I2K72BEZS9I96U



A caliper is also a handy tool
9897


You should stock a bare minimum of caps, resistors, wire, copper tape.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SVHFXO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28PU14GQTJ9IX&coliid=I328OP7YNORJ0H

http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Resistor/dp/B003UC4FSS/ref=pd_sim_indust_1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4ZQ3L0/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013JLALK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AGUAII/ref=oh_details_o07_s02_i07?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CPBX6O/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



My setup


Tektronix DMM914
TekPower TP4000ZC
MS8261 DIGITAL MULTIMETER
SHS810 DSO
Hantek1025G function generator
Logic Probe
CSI3005SM power supply
CSI474 Desoldering Station
CSI825A Hot Air Station
Aoyue 932 Vacuum Pickup Station
Pro Charge Cordless Rechargeable Soldering Iron
Power Probe PPSK Butane Soldering Kit
Weller WES51
TOP2049 Universal USB Programmer
BK Precision 851 Deluxe EPROM Eraser

Various rotary tools, flux pens, solder paste, glue gun, etc


Good places to shop at online
http://sra-solder.com/
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/
http://www.aidetek.com/

ApolloBoy
12-27-2013, 01:02 AM
What does this do?
It's used to check the capacitance and ESR of capacitors, even if they're still in circuit.

trenog
12-27-2013, 02:07 AM
Of the stuff I own I'm going to say that the Hozan P-706 is definitely an amazing tool to have.

Stuff I'm usually working with that haven't been mentioned yet are:

Soldering:
Chip Quik Type 5 Solder Paste (http://www.chipquikinc.com/store/prod_smd291snl10t5.html)
951SX LONER Temperature Controlled Soldering Station (http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=951SX)

Power:
Innova 3320 Auto Ranging Digital Multimeter (http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA)

Xian Xi
12-31-2013, 04:42 AM
Test & Measurement.


Test Instruments :
- ESR Meter ESR-micro v4.0s (http://www.radiodevices.info/esr/esr4.htm)

Russian made, should be available on eBay.



I remember when I bought mine, I played with my caps seeing which manufacturer was best across the board. Surprising results, some generics were better than the "name brand" ones.

shadows
12-31-2013, 11:32 AM
The generic ones maybe had tighter tolerances, but I wouldn't trust them in the long run.

GadgetUK
12-31-2013, 04:21 PM
I really want to get an oscope but every time I ask people what specs I should be looking for to deal with pre-Y2K arcade games I get no answers.

Something like 40 / 60Mhz dual channel would be fine imo as most of the boards I've seen around that era tend to be < 20Mhz clock speeds. Although there might be 100 / 200Mhz boards out there around Y2K. I guess the answer is to check out the fastest clock speed of the types of boards you deal with. If I remember correctly there were ~266Mhz PC CPU's around that time (approx Y2K) so you might need a pretty good scope if you want to handle that sort of frequency.

All of the retro systems and arcade PCB's I've dealt with (80's and 90's) don't tend to go over 16Mhz. Digital storage scopes are better if you can find one, else analogue is fine.

skinny503
12-31-2013, 05:02 PM
If your drakon you have to have these two
9767
9768

Xian Xi
12-31-2013, 05:12 PM
The generic ones maybe had tighter tolerances, but I wouldn't trust them in the long run.

The generic ones I kept for around the house projects and only used name brand ones in my builds just for peace of mind.

ebinsugewa
12-31-2013, 08:10 PM
I can vouch for the Hakko 808 being the fucking bees knees. That thing is a big timesaver.

GohanX
12-31-2013, 09:24 PM
Indeed. The 808 along with the Hakko 888 soldering station are the best tools I have.

Xian Xi
01-01-2014, 10:43 PM
Indeed. The 808 along with the Hakko 888 soldering station are the best tools I have.

I might be getting an 808 and an 888D very soon. My desoldering iron died today and I feel it's time to try a new design since the one I had got way too many clogs. How is the 808 with clogs? And how easy is it to clean/swap parts, blah blah?

GohanX
01-01-2014, 11:44 PM
I've only had the 808 for a few months and I've only done one big project with it. I had to clean out the solder a couple of times when removing about 16 chips, but I did that within an hour while I was chatting. I have accidentally burned myself a few times with the tip cleaner, it's just a straight wire, if you touch anything but the little handle prepare for a scar.

GohanX
01-01-2014, 11:47 PM
Oh, and as far as swapping parts, it looks easy. Hakko gives you a nice sheet with all the replacement part numbers and diagrams of how to assemble everything. That being said, bust3d has been using an 808 forever and hasn't even had to change the tip, and he's probably done literally thousands of chips.

bustedstr8
01-02-2014, 12:28 AM
The 808 has never clogged on me. If you do the basic maintenance it should run flawless for years. I use the tip tool every 100 joints or so and clean the heating element tube when ever I dump the solder chamber. The filter disks last about 1-2 months depending on how clean the work is.

My everyday soldering iron. http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/portable/psi100k.htm

I use the butane iron with the 2.4mm chisel for 99% of work. The Hakko888 is backup if I need to
use a fine conical tip or if the exhaust may damage things in tight spaces



:tickled: Drakon and his infamous glue gun mods seem to be well known in this hobby.

"Click the link to my new awesomesauce Fami mod."

ratnestofwiresandbucketsofhotgluejizz.jpg

Skips
01-02-2014, 01:12 AM
If your drakon you have to have these two
9767
9768

Actually that hot glue gun is a fairly nice high heat hot glue gun. it does not leave the glue stringy and nasty (I know because I have that one). It is way to expensive for his blood. Drakon uses one of those shitty little ones you would use for arts and crafts (except what he does with it is neither artsy or crafty).

mainman
01-02-2014, 03:19 AM
The problem with butane irons is total lack of thermal control and the whole extreme fire hazard thing. For example I was working on a cps2 board with a butane iron and it managed to melt the plastic connectors just by being in proximity of them. A butane iron is a powder keg that has to be constantly monitored because really are you going to turn it off every time you have to sit it down for just a second.

Your better off using a rechargeable battery powered soldering iron for quick jobs if you need portability.

The down side is the iron is only good for 40 minutes of continuous use before you have to recharge. But it only needs a hour for a full charge.

9803

cdamm
01-02-2014, 09:24 AM
great info.

this thread should get the 'sticky' treatment.

shadows
01-02-2014, 10:57 AM
I've only had the 808 for a few months and I've only done one big project with it. I had to clean out the solder a couple of times when removing about 16 chips, but I did that within an hour while I was chatting. I have accidentally burned myself a few times with the tip cleaner, it's just a straight wire, if you touch anything but the little handle prepare for a scar.

Oh yea its easy to slip and have your fingers slide down onto that very hot piece of metal. Makes nice grooves on your fingers.
Hakko sells a tool to drill out clogs in the tip, Hakko B1303. I only used it once as a drill. But if you turn the drill bit around as to not scratch the inside of the tip and damage it, you get a nice sturdy cleaning tool.

skinny503
01-02-2014, 11:23 AM
What are you guys housing your tools in or on? Right now im having a hard time keeping all my tools in a larger size plastic tool box and have been looking around at some alternatives that will allow me to still keep it portable.

ApolloBoy
01-02-2014, 01:03 PM
I'd love to have an 808 one of these days. Right now I'm using an Aoyue 474A+ desoldering station which gets the job done nicely, but it's fairly bulky and the tips wear out faster than I'd like.

xsq
01-02-2014, 02:05 PM
What are you guys housing your tools in or on? Right now im having a hard time keeping all my tools in a larger size plastic tool box and have been looking around at some alternatives that will allow me to still keep it portable. Pics of peoples workspaces would also be great...

ggallegos1
01-02-2014, 06:25 PM
this is a really helpful thread, I was always wondering what I would need for cab maintenance should I invest in a cab

Tyranix95
01-02-2014, 06:50 PM
What tips do you guys use with your WELLERs and HAKKOs?

skinny503
01-02-2014, 06:57 PM
What tips do you guys use with your WELLERs and HAKKOs?

the right one for the job:drool:

shadows
01-02-2014, 07:21 PM
this is a really helpful thread, I was always wondering what I would need for cab maintenance should I invest in a cab

For general cab maintenance you only really need 3-4 tools. Multimeter, crimpers, soldering iron and a desoldering hand pump, though you could get away with using solder wick.

mainman
01-02-2014, 10:19 PM
Lets not forget the second most vital tool that should be in your inventory, a trusting rotary tool.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388720587&sr=8-1&keywords=RTX-B+3

and drill set

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-150-Piece-Home-Project/dp/B00DY8KD7K/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1388720711&sr=1-14&keywords=black+%26+decker+drill+set

Vectorman0
01-02-2014, 11:37 PM
Can anyone recommend a nice high quality drill bit set? I could use a new set, and I want sharp ones for drilling holes in my powdercoated MV-2 cover. I want to generate as little heat as possible to hopefully minimize possible paint flaking.

I don't need 100 different bits, just a decent assortment.

goombakid
01-03-2014, 02:03 AM
I really need to invest in an 808. ATM, all I have is my soldering iron/station (one from Sparkfun),a plunger solder sucker, and a desoldering braid.

All my tools are in 2 separate toolboxes right now, but I'm thinking I may need a bigger one, probably one with wheels and whatnot.

I also use this toolkit since I mainly work on consoles:

http://www.zoozen.com/cgi-bin/zoozen2/engine.pl?function=viewid&id=RKS00023&cat=MISC.-BASICS

It has all the tools for most, if not all, consoles.

shadows
01-03-2014, 02:47 AM
Can anyone recommend a nice high quality drill bit set? I could use a new set, and I want sharp ones for drilling holes in my powdercoated MV-2 cover. I want to generate as little heat as possible to hopefully minimize possible paint flaking.

I don't need 100 different bits, just a decent assortment.

I got a few Titanium Irwin stepped drill bits, works great for metal. Not sure about the powder coating though.

lachlan
01-04-2014, 06:29 AM
If anyone saw my tool box they'd probably wonder how the hell I do fucking anything.

Craig
01-04-2014, 03:30 PM
Im not really an arcade tech but... As a professional wireman I swear by this shit.
9873

Crimpers are kinda pricey at 400 bucks, but they rock... I wouldn't suggest unless you got deep pockets.

The auto wire strippers are pretty rad at around 25-30 bucks... I think Ideal also makes a decent set like this.

Little red nippers are good for cutting zip ties/ty wraps flush so there is no pointy sharp/pointy edges...

indierocklocks
01-05-2014, 03:15 AM
great info.

this thread should get the 'sticky' treatment.

I second this. Adding some items to the shopping list. Thanks for the tips guys.

GohanX
01-05-2014, 12:16 PM
What kind of solder are you guys using? The stuff I got lay time sucks monkey balls

shadows
01-05-2014, 01:19 PM
I use Kester SN63PB37 #50/245 .020 2463378807

bustedstr8
01-05-2014, 02:00 PM
Same here...Kester 63/37 RMA core

ApolloBoy
01-05-2014, 02:30 PM
I use Kester 44 solder, which is a 60/40 blend and has non-corrosive flux.

Xian Xi
01-05-2014, 02:48 PM
I use Kester silver. Amazing solder, glad I bought in bulk 5 years ago. Shit is so expensive now.

Xian Xi
01-05-2014, 02:49 PM
Can anyone recommend a nice high quality drill bit set? I could use a new set, and I want sharp ones for drilling holes in my powdercoated MV-2 cover. I want to generate as little heat as possible to hopefully minimize possible paint flaking.

I don't need 100 different bits, just a decent assortment.

If the powdercoating was done right, it won't chip. It might get a slight orange peel look due to the heat though.

Yodd
01-05-2014, 04:24 PM
My daily driver stuff is Kester 44 60/40 .031inch.

I also have some .015 stuff for SMD work.

I keep a small spool of lead free (yuck) on hand for when I need to work on anything newer. Thankfully that's pretty much never.

mainman
01-05-2014, 09:39 PM
One more very important item you should get above all others.

9888




These will come in handy also
9889

9890




What kind of solder are you guys using? The stuff I got lay time sucks monkey balls

Flux is your friend, buy lots of it.


Refillable Flux Pen
9893
http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7041/141/sra_80_water_soluble_flux_pen_refillable

Flux Removal Pen
9894
http://sra-solder.com/product.php/6718/141/platic_safe_flux_remover

One gallon of flux
9895
http://sra-solder.com/product.php/6362/143/flux_rosin_97_1_gallon


Solder paste
9896
http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7133/15/chip_quik_63_37_no_clean_solder_paste_type_5_10cc

Vectorman0
01-05-2014, 10:09 PM
If the powdercoating was done right, it won't chip. It might get a slight orange peel look due to the heat though.

I got it from you, so I should be good!

Xian Xi
01-06-2014, 12:01 AM
I got it from you, so I should be good!

Was that the hammertone finish?

Xian Xi
01-14-2014, 06:32 AM
- HAKKO 808 desoldering gun (http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_808.html)


Since I've had time now with the 808, I'd like to share my pros and cons about it.

Pros
------
Great Suction
Tip is heated from core instead of exterior like other stations
Great collection design, prevents premature clogging
Tips are nicely rounded without sharp edges

Cons
-------
Gun Configuration - I suffer from CTS so holding something in a gun shape for long periods of time is very fatiguing
Collection tube is plastic and not glass, makes clean outs not as easy as they can be
Ceramic Filters are too small and have to be changed after desoldering about .25oz of solder and they aren't cheap. They are also not very easy to remove from the recess in the gun as they should be. There should be a notch on the side to stick something in and pop it out instead of having to stab it and pry it out.
Power Switch - there isn't any. Makes it a pain if you have busy work station and have to keep plugging and unplugging when you want to use it.
Power Indicator - none as well, would be nice, I don't really need it since I keep track of what is plugged in but for the absent minded folks it would be good to have.

I realize that these points might not be understandable for the average user, since I've used 5 different desoldering stations in my time I have a bigger field of reference when it comes to desoldering tools.

I rate it 8/10, pretty damn good but could have some improvements.

If you have the opportunity to get one for a sub $100 price, go for it. I got mine for $200+ as a full kit with tips and stand. I think it's a good price even at $200.

mainman
01-15-2014, 04:37 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_PbjbRaO2E




Since I've had time now with the 808, I'd like to share my pros and cons about it.

Pros
------
Great Suction
Tip is heated from core instead of exterior like other stations
Great collection design, prevents premature clogging
Tips are nicely rounded without sharp edges

Cons
-------
Gun Configuration - I suffer from CTS so holding something in a gun shape for long periods of time is very fatiguing
Collection tube is plastic and not glass, makes clean outs not as easy as they can be
Ceramic Filters are too small and have to be changed after desoldering about .25oz of solder and they aren't cheap. They are also not very easy to remove from the recess in the gun as they should be. There should be a notch on the side to stick something in and pop it out instead of having to stab it and pry it out.
Power Switch - there isn't any. Makes it a pain if you have busy work station and have to keep plugging and unplugging when you want to use it.
Power Indicator - none as well, would be nice, I don't really need it since I keep track of what is plugged in but for the absent minded folks it would be good to have.

I realize that these points might not be understandable for the average user, since I've used 5 different desoldering stations in my time I have a bigger field of reference when it comes to desoldering tools.

I rate it 8/10, pretty damn good but could have some improvements.

If you have the opportunity to get one for a sub $100 price, go for it. I got mine for $200+ as a full kit with tips and stand. I think it's a good price even at $200.


Did you abandon getting that scope Xian

Xian Xi
02-02-2014, 11:20 PM
I finally got too irritated with the design so I modified it for the better.

http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/images/tech/mods/esr-1.jpg
http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/images/tech/mods/esr-2.jpg

Evilpoptart
02-03-2014, 12:35 PM
great info.

this thread should get the 'sticky' treatment.

I conquer,

Really great info for anybody looking for it. Was looking for a nice solder/desolder station to purchase and found this. My vote is for a sticky on this.

skinny503
02-03-2014, 05:50 PM
I rock one of these at work and sometimes bring it home to use. No complaints and it has a small footprint! I like the dials on it to fine tune current and voltage. Not sure how "good" they are but for a cheap power supply I dont think you can go wrong
11130

mainman
07-20-2014, 10:59 PM
Bumping this thread due to people being constantly interested in buying equipment

Thought I add a new recommendation for any ham heads out there

http://www.rigolna.com/images/products/DSA815-TG.jpg

theMot
08-17-2014, 08:24 PM
I have been looking at various ways to extract IC's from boards. I just find the humble flat head screw driver works best tbh. I have noticed there seems to be a type though that works like a mini crowbar - basically a screw driver with a bent head. The only ones I could find online were in the range of $15 which I thought is a bit stupid for what is basically a bent screwdriver so instead I just stuck one of my own flat heads in a vice, gave it a bit of a pull and came up with this:

17822

Much easier to get under chips that are bunched together with this.

mainman
08-18-2014, 02:02 AM
I fully understand why you did it especially as you explained why but it just makes me sad to see a tool damaged despite how humble it may be or how many spares you might have just sitting around.

This is the proper tool to use btw.

17831

theMot
08-18-2014, 03:03 AM
I have a couple of those already but i still rather my bent screwdriver. :D

Xian Xi
08-18-2014, 02:39 PM
I just use my wire cutters. Makes it easier for those ICs that are flat against the rib of the socket.

aha2940
08-18-2014, 09:23 PM
I would like to add the TOP3000 EPROM programmer to the list of tools. I recently asked and this was suggested by many people to me as a very nice and not very expensive (about $140) EPROM programmer. The VP390 was also suggested, but it's more expensive.

Regards.

mainman
08-19-2014, 01:49 AM
I would like to add the TOP3000 EPROM programmer to the list of tools. I recently asked and this was suggested by many people to me as a very nice and not very expensive (about $140) EPROM programmer. The VP390 was also suggested, but it's more expensive.

Regards.

I suggested the top3000 to Fox and by bad odds he got a faulty unit which ultimately lead to him buying a more expensive programmer. I felt bad about the whole thing even though I have been using my top programmer for more than 4 years with no problems. Not to say that the same could not happen to the Vp390. I now know one person on this forum who had a top go bad and another who had a VP go bad.

So remember people when buying China designed and built equipment you must remember you are buying China equipment because you couldn't afford the name brand stuff and as such are taking a risk. If you have the funds buy Fluke, Tek, EEtools, etc.

shadowkn55
08-19-2014, 02:02 AM
I fully understand why you did it especially as you explained why but it just makes me sad to see a tool damaged despite how humble it may be or how many spares you might have just sitting around.

This is the proper tool to use btw.

17831

That's for PLCC chips. Not all that useful for removing dip chips.

mainman
08-19-2014, 03:46 AM
That's for PLCC chips. Not all that useful for removing dip chips.

It's more of a it wasn't designed for dips but works in actual practice none the less thing.


This is what I use which is designed to extract dip packages.

17860

Fox1
08-19-2014, 04:06 AM
I suggested the top3000 to Fox and by bad odds he got a faulty unit which ultimately lead to him buying a more expensive programmer. I felt bad about the whole thing even though I have been using my top programmer for more than 4 years with no problems. Not to say that the same could not happen to the Vp390. I now know one person on this forum who had a top go bad and another who had a VP go bad.

So remember people when buying China designed and built equipment you must remember you are buying China equipment because you couldn't afford the name brand stuff and as such are taking a risk. If you have the funds buy Fluke, Tek, EEtools, etc.


lol don't worry about it. I knew what I was getting into. Basically the problem with China programmers is if it breaks, you have to return it to China and pay them a fee. Well, it led me to a much better programmer, so it all ended well lol.

I found their warranty quite funny. When I returned it, the guy said "Ok that will be $20". I was like, "Wait, this is still covered under the warranty that you advertise on your page." He said, "Yes it is, but that's labor only. They want to put in new parts to fix the programmer. I can ask them to not put in new parts and fix it that way if you want?" Me: "Yes, I just want them to fix the programmer without having to pay them anything." Them: "Oh, I can't do that." Me: "You just said you could." Them: "They need new parts to fix the programmer."

Oh..this is not a cut and paste, I had to edit the English to make it readable :P

mainman
08-19-2014, 04:22 AM
lol don't worry about it. I knew what I was getting into. Basically the problem with China programmers is if it breaks, you have to return it to China and pay them a fee. Well, it led me to a much better programmer, so it all ended well lol.

I found their warranty quite funny. When I returned it, the guy said "Ok that will be $20". I was like, "Wait, this is still covered under the warranty that you advertise on your page." He said, "Yes it is, but that's labor only. They want to put in new parts to fix the programmer. I can ask them to not put in new parts if you want." Me: "Yes, I just want them to fix the programmer without having to pay them anything." Them: "Oh, I can't do that." Me: "You just said you could." Them: "They need new parts to fix the programmer."

Oh..this is not a cut and paste, I had to edit the English to make it readable :P

Unbelievable.

I had a similar incident with my faulty out the box China DSO, the multimeter section kept locking up but the scope section worked flawlessly. I paid a lot of money for my scope and did not feel I should have to investigate the problem myself so I contacted the Chinese manufacturer. Long story short they did not care I bought a lemon and did not want to fix or replace a product that was advertised with a 3 year warranty that failed out the box.

It wasn't until I called them out on the eevblog forum with a video of the fault that they actually offered a remedy which was to replace my 100Mhz DSO with a 60Mhz version but only if I took down the review I left. Needless to say this was unacceptable and I told them to screw off and I left the video up. In the end I fixed the DSO myself. Despite the flaw to the multimeter section that I never use or plan to use because that feature is shit poor to a stand alone meter, the actual scope section is outstanding which is what I really needed.

Basically I couldn't afford the fluke equivalent which was $1500

GohanX
09-29-2014, 08:48 AM
Well, my beloved Hakko 808 has shit the bed on me. I've been using it a lot in the past couple of months mostly removing cart slots to make my Neptunes and it stopped working on me yesterday when I was troubleshooting a Master System 2 cart slot. Fuck. I don't know how long the warranty is, but I've had it less than a year so I should be able to get a replacement.

As much as I love the thing, I'm not certain I'm going to recommend it so readily now.

Xian Xi
09-29-2014, 02:05 PM
Well, my beloved Hakko 808 has shit the bed on me. I've been using it a lot in the past couple of months mostly removing cart slots to make my Neptunes and it stopped working on me yesterday when I was troubleshooting a Master System 2 cart slot. Fuck. I don't know how long the warranty is, but I've had it less than a year so I should be able to get a replacement.

As much as I love the thing, I'm not certain I'm going to recommend it so readily now.

What's wrong with it exactly?

GohanX
09-29-2014, 02:09 PM
I was removing the solder from the cart slot pins, and it just stopped. I let it sit for a few hours since I thought I may have tripped the thermal protection circuit, but nothing. The tip still heats up, but no suction at all, the motor doesn't come on. I removed the collection tube and filter to make sure there wasn't a clog, still nothing.

Xian Xi
09-29-2014, 04:02 PM
I was removing the solder from the cart slot pins, and it just stopped. I let it sit for a few hours since I thought I may have tripped the thermal protection circuit, but nothing. The tip still heats up, but no suction at all, the motor doesn't come on. I removed the collection tube and filter to make sure there wasn't a clog, still nothing.

Same problem I had, most likely the rectifier died. On mine if there was any resistance instead of the motor ramping up it would wind down to a slow speed. If yours is out of warranty you can ship it to me if you want and I can swap out the rectifier and see if it fixes the problem.

GohanX
09-30-2014, 12:46 AM
Awesome, thanks. I'll contact Hakko support and see what's up first.

bustedstr8
09-30-2014, 12:54 AM
Well, my beloved Hakko 808 has shit the bed on me. I've been using it a lot in the past couple of months mostly removing cart slots to make my Neptunes and it stopped working on me yesterday when I was troubleshooting a Master System 2 cart slot. Fuck. I don't know how long the warranty is, but I've had it less than a year so I should be able to get a replacement.

As much as I love the thing, I'm not certain I'm going to recommend it so readily now.
You could always go back to your Rat Shack iron:keke:

Man you guys had some shit luck with yours.....mine dropped 3 feet onto concrete and still works like a baus.

mainman
09-30-2014, 04:02 AM
Well, my beloved Hakko 808 has shit the bed on me. I've been using it a lot in the past couple of months mostly removing cart slots to make my Neptunes and it stopped working on me yesterday when I was troubleshooting a Master System 2 cart slot. Fuck. I don't know how long the warranty is, but I've had it less than a year so I should be able to get a replacement.

As much as I love the thing, I'm not certain I'm going to recommend it so readily now.

Looks like Hakko might be turning into Aoyue using your 808 and Xian as examples.

When doing marathon work I will split the load between my Aoyue474 and my Hakko472

mainman
12-11-2014, 12:08 AM
Finally decided to stop straining my eyes doing SMT work with a eye loupe and decided to upgrade to a microscope. Best immediately beneficial investment I made in a long time. It's like going from a solder sucker to a hakko 808, now it takes me a quarter of the time to do the same job even better than before.

http://lghttp.33652.nexcesscdn.net/80F3FE/amscope/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/t/stereo-microscope-se400-4_2.jpg

Tyranix95
12-11-2014, 12:13 AM
That is cool.

Link plz.

mainman
12-11-2014, 04:32 PM
That is cool.

Link plz.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C75IVM

channelmaniac
12-15-2014, 01:08 PM
Nice! I have a Nikon stereo microscope head and ring light that I picked up for $50. Can you take some pics of where that arm from the base mounts to the head? I might just order one of those from Amazon if it looks like it may mount to it. :)

They had this one posted, but I would like a pic from the other angle to see the back side of this connection.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CcINwZhhL.jpg

GohanX
12-15-2014, 02:07 PM
Awesome, thanks. I'll contact Hakko support and see what's up first.

Lol, I still haven't even looked at the thing yet.

Neodogg
12-15-2014, 04:51 PM
^ are you really quoting yourself?

GohanX
12-15-2014, 07:20 PM
It's my body, I do what I want!

Pingu
12-15-2014, 09:50 PM
If you have the funds buy Fluke, Tek, EEtools, etc.
True, now the adapters for the programmers on the other hand... Buying two to five or so adapters for my topmax2 would have easily doubled the price of it. As it turns out eetools have data sheets over the adapters so you can compare them to others. I did buy a sop44 to dip44 adapter for $10 shipped from aliexpress that worked great but it is sort of a gamble since they mostly sell funky 40pin adapters for the TL866.

I wonder if any people have bought adapters for their non china burners cheaply on aliexpress or similar for cheap since I'm looking to get at least some tsop adapters.

mainman
12-16-2014, 12:30 AM
Nice! I have a Nikon stereo microscope head and ring light that I picked up for $50. Can you take some pics of where that arm from the base mounts to the head? I might just order one of those from Amazon if it looks like it may mount to it. :)

They had this one posted, but I would like a pic from the other angle to see the back side of this connection.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CcINwZhhL.jpg

Is this the angle you wanted

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/niceguy60/scope2_zpseb38ce62.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/niceguy60/media/scope2_zpseb38ce62.jpg.html)


I have noticed when you buy equipment Channel you tend to buy the Cadillac version of said equipment so you might be happier with these models.

21370
21371