Six slot color problem

Hey I just recieved a six slot in the mail today (to replace one that I got that had some graphic glitches) and seem to have a color issue with the board.
I think its not displaying the color green. I tried out my other boards again to make sure I didn't accidentally knock something loose when removing my board and they are displaying fine.
I took a closer look at the board and it seems to have a damaged corner. It had a screw that would have gone into a pcb foot but the foot was missing.
Not sure if this is the cause of the problem or not. It looks like none of the traces on the connector are near the damaged corner.
I tested out a couple of things to try and get it to display right. The first was to test the voltage. That seemed fine. I upped the voltage a little to make sure it was getting proper power. That had no effect.
The second was to remove the top board and replace it with another six slot top board that I have to see if the trouble was with the bottom board. This had no effect as well. Which leads me to believe that the trouble is with the bottom board.
Anyone have any suggestions? Am I missing something obvious?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here are some pics of the board and some comparison pics of the monitor:






Wrong color board:


Correct color board:



Wrong color board:


Correct color board:

Looks like a bottom board problem.

Your going to have to enter the test menu and go to the color test page and see which color is missing.

Then your going to have to find that pin on the edge connector and follow the trace back, checking for problems.

And, I think your missing Blue.

Thanks. I'll have to try and figure it out after work tomorrow. Even if I do track down the problem I'm not sure I have the know how to fix it :/

mainman and channelmanic fix six slots.

Do what Tyranix said and go into the test menu to check color levels. Break out the multimeter and measure the voltage while the board is live and loaded. Is this being tested in a cab. The board is most certainly fixable and I sure the other you mentioned can also be repaired .

Will do. I have the voltage fully loaded at 5.12 or so. I'll check it again tomorrow though.

I got the impression the other board would cost more to fix than it would to track down another six slot (hence the reason I bought this board :-/). Here is a link to the tech support thread to that board if your curious.

*EDIT yeah this being tested in a six slot big red cab.

Mr.Nemoperson said:

Will do. I have the voltage fully loaded at 5.12 or so. I'll check it again tomorrow though.

I got the impression the other board would cost more to fix than it would to track down another six slot (hence the reason I bought this board :-/). Here is a link to the tech support thread to that board if your curious.

*EDIT yeah this being tested in a six slot big red cab.

Click to expand...

Well if you ever decide you don't want that other 6 slot don't take it outback with the shot gun, give me a pm first.

Thanks btw for preserving the 6 slotter as they get so much unjustified hate

Flip DIP 1 and go into hardware diagnostics. Post a picture of the color test screen.

Also, take a close-up pic of the JAMMA edge connector and the row of resistors near it. The 74LS273 chips along with the resistors and one jellybean logic (7405 or 7406 going off memory) make up the color outputs. You may have some bad resistors or a jellybean logic chip.

Edit: Looks like Green is missing. Clean the JAMMA edge connector with a pink pencil eraser.

RJ

Alright so here is a pic of the color test screen:




I also tested the voltage again with the board fully loaded with 6 carts, the coin LEDs, headphone, and marquee connectors plugged in. The reading was 5.11.

I then used an eraser and went over the jamma connector several times on the top and bottom side of the board. I tested again and it had no effect.

I have not tried to use my mulitmeter to test for shorts yet. Not sure exactly how to do that. Do I test for continuity with the jamma edge and then use the other probe on the chips and whatnot?

Here is the pictures you requested CM. Not exactly sure if I got what you asked for as your crazy tecno babble makes me











Thanks again for the help guys.

Really odd... Green and Blue have the same outputs. Is that cap leg on the left side of the NEO-B0 chip touching the legs of the chip - other than the ones it's soldered to... ?

As far as I can tell I don't think they are. I lifted them up to make sure they were not touching. Here is a closer look at it:



The fellow I bought it off of on KLOV says that it was working fine on his candy cab before he sent it out. Perhaps that cab was modified in some way and the board was altered to get it to play on it correctly? The board was packed very well so I don't see how it would have gotten damaged during transit.

Not sure. The guy you bought it from is a local friend of mine. He'll take care of things, just let him know what you want to do.

If you can test it in another cabinet just for grins, it would be cool.

Kinda of reminds me when the headers on the Wells chassis get loose and the monitor colors get all funny.

So I'm thinking he's got a bad connection somewhere, but, not on the monitor side of things 'cause his other board looks fine.

channelmaniac said:

Not sure. The guy you bought it from is a local friend of mine. He'll take care of things, just let him know what you want to do.

If you can test it in another cabinet just for grins, it would be cool.

Click to expand...

I tried it in my candy cab and it had the same result:


I'll mess around with with the multimeter a little more and see if I can't figure it out.

Well I was able to fix the color problem. It turned out a couple bent pins on the bottom of the board were touching each other
So that was cool till I noticed the black square graphic glitches that were trialing down the middle of the screen. Which was the very reason why I got this board to replace the other six slot board I had that was doing the same thing...........
I recheck the board and it turned out that when I moved that cap up that was attached to the NEO-B0 chip it broke free of its solder joint. Well I start thinking that I could try and re-solder it back by touching the leg of the cap with the soldering iron.......turns out that the iron was too hot and I messed up the legs of the NEO-B0 chip pretty bad
So the board is way more messed up now more than ever.
Is this something that is repairable? I would imagine that the NEO-B0 chip needs to be replaced. Which is well beyond my ability with a soldering iron.
If any of you crazy tech heads has some free time and wants to make a few bucks send me a PM

It's not that the iron is too hot... it's that the solder sticks to everything. You need to use some liquid rosin flux!

Yeah solder loves to stick to metal--not to plastic. And flux is like magic: It helps solder spread out and separate so it has an easy time sticking to little metal pieces that are close together (like fine pitch chip legs). And solder wick (or solder braid) is great for removing excess solder from metal. That solder just loves to run up the braid.


If you get in a jam, and need a hand, PM CM and MM. There're still your guys.

---

Nice Grand Am, btw.

I was under the impression that rosin core solder had the flux in it?
I used a solder wick to try and undo what I did but I think I probably did more bad than good. Ehhh either way I think I'm done playing repair man for now. Too many other things to freak out about than this at the moment. And it was a good learning experience anyways.
Thanks for the help guys