NEO GEO AES LOOSE POWER INPUT

vasilas432

vasilas432

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Hi guys,
I received my new AES and while in excellent condition, when I touch the power cord near the input socket of the console it does turn off and on. The adapter says 5v. I am not sure if the cable has the problem, which looks fine, or the socket doesn't make a complete contact. Is it common because of the age of the hardware or its just mine? How can I fix this. It is very annoying.
 
HeavyMachineGoob

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The AC adapter socket is likely at fault here. The socket has developed either a cold joint on the PCB, or the socket itself is going bad. Try disassembling the AES, reflowing the solder joints on the socket, then try the power adapter again.
 
vasilas432

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HeavyMachineGun said:
The AC adapter socket is likely at fault here. The socket has developed either a cold joint on the PCB, or the socket itself is going bad. Try disassembling the AES, reflowing the solder joints on the socket, then try the power adapter again.
Click to expand...
Is this a common issue? I would like to avoid opening as I know nothing about electroning repairs!
 
vasilas432

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Can I try a generic power adaptor with 5v output or I will damage the console?
 
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Heinz

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Quite an easy thing to do, don't know anything about repairing electronics? time to start learning! :D
 
vasilas432

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Xian Xi said:
You can get them all over. Just search for DC power connector 2.1mm PCB mount.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much! Is it common and easy to find in a lockal shop to go downtown now or only from eBay?
 
HeavyMachineGoob

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Well, we all like to think powering the system on and off shouldn't do any harm, but some of us have brushed by the horrible conclusion that Neo Geo hardware was designed to be left powered on for a long time, not turned on and off periodically. As such, some chips don't tolerate power flips much.

Besides, I don't think you'd very much enjoy your Neo Geo cutting power right in the middle of a game. Just get a soldering iron, watch a couple YouTube videos, get a screwdriver set, unscrew the Neo Geo entirely, flip the PCB over and add/reflow the solder on the jack. If that doesn't work, get some desoldering braid or a solder sucker and swap out the old power jack.
 
vasilas432

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HeavyMachineGun said:
Well, we all like to think powering the system on and off shouldn't do any harm, but some of us have brushed by the horrible conclusion that Neo Geo hardware was designed to be left powered on for a long time, not turned on and off periodically. As such, some chips don't tolerate power flips much.

Besides, I don't think you'd very much enjoy your Neo Geo cutting power right in the middle of a game. Just get a soldering iron, watch a couple YouTube videos, get a screwdriver set, unscrew the Neo Geo entirely, flip the PCB over and add/reflow the solder on the jack. If that doesn't work, get some desoldering braid or a solder sucker and swap out the old power jack.
Click to expand...
An expert friend of mine opened the system for me. It was never been opened before. Everything inside was mint. He unscrew the six small screws but he wasn't sure about the joystick screws. He was afraid about the height that they should screw back and told me it doesn't worth the trouble to adjust the factory settings. Besides only if you move the cord it looses contact and told me his opinion not to be a big deal. He also told me that we shouldn't have opened the system for that reason while it wasn't ever opened... If you move your cord near the socket is there any problem to yours?
Last but not least I could't find socket and must order online if I deside to open again.
 
norton9478

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I doubt that you would need to replace the PCB Jack.

There is also a good (50/50) chance that the broken connection lies from the adapter to the end of the plug.

If you don't want to solder or anything, try replacing the AC adapter first.
 
vasilas432

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norton9478 said:
I doubt that you would need to replace the PCB Jack.

There is also a good (50/50) chance that the broken connection lies from the adapter to the end of the plug.

If you don't want to solder or anything, try replacing the AC adapter first.
Click to expand...
We measured the adapter and is fine. Great quality to have a broken connection.
To disconnect the system I must grab the cord and move it little up or left. You feel the socket is moving a little. There it comes the turn off and again on if you leave it alone. Now I saw the guide http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?226627-How-to-open-and-properly-clean-your-Neo-Geo-AES-system-(with-pics) and it is easier than I thought. I must try again tomorrow....
 
HeavyMachineGoob

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vasilas432 said:
An expert friend of mine opened the system for me. It was never been opened before. Everything inside was mint. He unscrew the six small screws but he wasn't sure about the joystick screws. He was afraid about the height that they should screw back and told me it doesn't worth the trouble to adjust the factory settings. Besides only if you move the cord it looses contact and told me his opinion not to be a big deal. He also told me that we shouldn't have opened the system for that reason while it wasn't ever opened... If you move your cord near the socket is there any problem to yours?
Last but not least I could't find socket and must order online if I deside to open again.
Click to expand...

Expert friend? Sounds lazy to me. The power socket should NOT have that disconnecting problem. It IS a big deal! It is broken and has to be fixed. Do you not understand that? Who cares if the system is unopened. Once it's become damaged, you have to open it and fix it. Hell, people have opened minty Neo Geos to drill holes in the case to mount component jacks. Those holes are permanent!
 
vasilas432

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ok understood! It must be repaired and the opening doesn't matter as I thought! I will open it again!
 
vasilas432

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Guys we lifted the PCB and the the jack on it was fine. The problem was lockated in the jack. The male from the adapter can not contact if you move it a little. There is black dirt inside maybe from the spark when you enter the adapter while already on the wall. So it needs a replacement which don't sell in my lockation. Ordered from eBay. I must wait two weeks.
 
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vasilas432 said:
Guys we lifted the PCB and the the jack on it was fine. The problem was lockated in the jack. The male from the adapter can not contact if you move it a little. There is black dirt inside maybe from the spark when you enter the adapter while already on the wall. So it needs a replacement which don't sell in my lockation. Ordered from eBay. I must wait two weeks.
Click to expand...

Ok well it was not a problem with a cold joint on the pcb, an new jack will fix the problem and should last many years.
Dont worry that you are the first to open the console, it needed repairing, better you do it now than causing another problem with the machine, hope you sort it out soon.
 
vasilas432

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Guys found a replacement jack from another device (a rooter) and was a very tight working one. I replaced my self the jack. I bought equipment and this was my first solvering!!! BUT the solderings from three legs of the jack were three big surfaces behind the PCB and they were not contacting each other. I think mine don't contact either. They are very close though. I cleaned my solderings with a hard brush. If they are contacting I will burn it to the ground? I haven't turned it in yet. Please help me!
 
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ChrisB

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Hi
If the contacts you have soldered are two big, (if you used too much solder on?) then you will indeed cause a short circuit and could damage the machine, If they are not touching then you are fine, and you wont do any harm. Just make sure they are not touching each other or any other trace or track on the board.

Congrats on your first soldering, you will get better the more you do it with practice - WELL DONE! :)
 
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vasilas432

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ChrisB said:
Hi
If the contacts you have soldered are two big, (if you used too much solder on?) then you will indeed cause a short circuit and could damage the machine, If they are not touching then you are fine, and you wont do any harm. Just make sure they are not touching each other or any other trace or track on the board.
Click to expand...
The solders followed the tracks of the old ones and filled the same big surface! I couldn't solder less not to go to the borders! But of course I am a newbie and the machine is expensive. I think it is fine but I don't have the polymeter to hear the beeps if it is fine. A turn on is a risk. I must wait to find the organ or I turn on now and whatever...
 
vasilas432

vasilas432

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ChrisB said:
It sounds like you have soldered it correctly.
Click to expand...
The solder filled the old surface on the borders first and then finally gathered to hold the leg. Same happened to each of the three legs. But it was so close I couldn't see if they were touching. Then I used the brush and everything became more clear that they don't touch and look same solderings as the factory ones. I first desoldered heating each leg and taking the old solder away with a vacuum device. I put out the old jack easily and put the new one. Soldered one leg first to stabilize and then filled the surface almost as it was before. Did the same for three legs. After with knife scratched gently between the legs and finally cleaned with the brush. Did I miss anything from the prcedure?
 
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ChrisB

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vasilas432 said:
The solder filled the old surface on the borders first and then finally gathered to hold the leg. Same happened to each of the three legs. But it was so close I couldn't see if they were touching. Then I used the brush and everything became more clear that they don't touch and look same solderings as the factory ones. I first desoldered heating each leg and taking the old solder away with a vacuum device. I put out the old jack easily and put the new one. Soldered one leg first to stabilize and then filled the surface almost as it was before. Did the same for three legs. After with knife scratched gently between the legs and finally cleaned with the brush. Did I miss anything from the prcedure?
Click to expand...

No your good to go! :)
 
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