Ghostlop

wyndcrosser

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So Xian Xi went over how to make a ghostlop cart (thanks again), I just got the eproms in. The problem is that I had them pre-burnt, as I don't currently have that kind of programmer for those larger chips.

Below are the graphic issues I'm having. I just burnt a secondary unibios to see if that would help, as I have a real one from Raz. The sound, menu, and program works fine, just not the graphics. Any ideas? I'm assuming I'm just going to have to purchase a new programmer and burnt them myself, but I'd rather not at the moment (still paying off a ring). The graphics aren't all bad, so obviously something is right, but the over-all graphics are horrible. I did the jumpers per the pictures on mvs scans and used an old rented World Heroes Jet 2.

Below is how they were supposed to be burnt. C1 and C2 were split as C1=C1 C3 and C2=C2 C4, if I recall now.

27C160 name it C1
27C160 name it C2
27C160 name it C3
27C160 name it C4
27C160 name it P1
27C160 name it V1
27C1001 name it M1
27C1001 name it S1

photodxj.jpg


photo1qj.jpg


any ideas? I've been reading through the forums and a lot of them are saying jumper issues, but I don't think so. I left the correct jumpers on and the ones I corrected, I just soldered from each pad to combine them.
 

wyndcrosser

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I may go back and try to do the jumpers with the former jumpers I removed, instead of solder.
 

bustedstr8

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The pictured Ghostlop uses 32Mb C-Roms. The jumpers won't be the same for the 16Mb Roms you used.
 

wyndcrosser

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busted! would anyone know the jumper settings for 16mb?

thanks
 

wyndcrosser

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On the CHA256:

J11 is for C1 and C2 as 32mbit, R1 is for C1 and C2 if 8 or 16 mbit.

This was from a previous post. J11 is for 32mbit, so I'm assuming R1 should be added and J11 should be removed, but that wouldn't explain for C3 or C4, unless R1 encompasses those as well.
 

Xian Xi

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If you are using 16mbit C roms x 4 then you need to set R1 and R2. Those are the only two jumpers that would be set in the center section of the board.

So it should be:

J2
J3
J7
J8
R1
R2
 
Last edited:

wyndcrosser

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thanks man, I actually just did more research and found that I needed to do R1, and everything worked well. So I'll do R2 as well and see. thanks.

edit - I ran it again with R2 done and it seems to be just as good with R1, but I still have one graphical glitch under the players scores, in the center that looks like grates or vents, but only on the right side of those items.... hmm..

thanks guys.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
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thanks man, I actually just did more research and found that I needed to do R1, and everything worked well. So I'll do R2 as well and see. thanks.

edit - I ran it again with R2 done and it seems to be just as good with R1, but I still have one graphical glitch under the players scores, in the center that looks like grates or vents, but only on the right side of those items.... hmm..

thanks guys.

Post a pic, most likely traces from the S1. Did you remember to swap 2 and 24 on the S1 when soldering it in?
 

wyndcrosser

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I recalled, but I didn't know if the "27C1001 S1" was the one that needed it. I'll try it out later, thanks.

Are there anymore sites like the sites I posted about for CHA boards, etc. I'd like to know more about jumpers
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
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I recalled, but I didn't know if the "27C1001 S1" was the one that needed it. I'll try it out later, thanks.

Are there anymore sites like the sites I posted about for CHA boards, etc. I'd like to know more about jumpers

The S1 should be a 27C1000 which is essentially the same as the 1001 except pins 2 and 24 are swapped. So if you used a 1001 then you need to lift the 1 pins and run some wire to the holes.
 

wyndcrosser

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cool, I'll lift up 2 and 24 and swap the lines with wires. I don't like cutting traces.

you said lift the 1 pins, I think you're just saying swap 24 and 2, so now (hole 2 is pin 24 and hole 24 is pin 2) similar to SNES and NEs games.
 
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