RGB signals, video buffers, and questions

Hi everyone
I have a MVS MV-1FZS on cosolizing process and I want to let the RGBS signal to drive an encoder (Neobitz V2.0) and an external RGBS out (AES AV-out style) as well. I don't know if it's possible to simply split the RGBS signal to the encoder and to the RGB output by means of a "plain" parallel connection, or I must implement an isolation/buffer circuit like this one shown here based on the AD8073 chip:

http://www.parisc-linux.org/~varenet/supergun.html

By the way, I'm actually NOT planing to connect more than one output at the same time. I'm just concerned about the reliability of the whole project and to not damage the Neobitz (when not in use) while keeping a clear RGB out.
Any Help will be apreciated here... so thanks in advance.

It shouldnt be an issue if you just parallel them up.

Thanks Neo-Geo Man for your kind answer.
By the way, when hooking-up a Sony PVM monitor or a XRGB to the Neo, what type of resistor should be used?
...And, in case of using a potentiometer array... must it be connected in variable resistor mode or in voltage divider mode?
Does it depends on the input termination?
Thanks in advance again!

I used 220 ohm resistors in series with my MVS, and the colour is pretty well spot on for my liking, you could try anywhere from 150 to 240 if you like. Itll depend abit on your display too, mine is a CRT projector, so its abit different to a direct view CRT.

I would connect the pots as variable resistors, but thats just me, someone else may do it another way.

I've used 150 ohm and the colour has been pretty good on a CRT. Though I have used 120 ohm but it's a tad bit bright.

Will depend on the CRT and how many hours the tube has done as to what will end up best, one of my CRT projectors had done a shade over 60,000 hrs on its first set of tubes, they were quite low on output after that. The CRT monitor i was using til i retired it had about 24,000 hrs on it, and i had the contrast at 100 by the end and it was still abit dim. It was replaced with the exact same model.

Im not sure what the expected lifetime of a PVM is, itll vary abit depending on a few things. Once they get to a point where the phosphor is quite worn, you need to drive it harder to get the same light output, which wears it faster and being driven harder also causes abit of blooming. The amount of hours youll likely put on playing games will never be enough to wear the tube badly enough youll need to run it harder, itll all come down to what its first job was and how well it was calibrated.

Hi I have a question, I was soo stupid and somehow overheated pin nr 13 and it went loose, soo now i don't have the blue rgb anymore T.T.. that means that the board is useless right its a mvs mv-1c board...

Show us a pic of what you mean.

Set the soldering iron around 400°c, when you touch it to the solder you want it to melt as quick as possible to reduce heat soak into the rest of the board.

You should get an iron with at least 40 watts or more, the more power the better itll be by far. Low power is useless.

I usually set mine between 500-600°c since I like the flow at that temp.

I dont go quite that high, 450 does me, as long as youve got the high wattage there to back it up when you go to melt thr solder, trying to melt a big heap of solder with a low wattage iron just doesnt work....