Namco System 12 Battery Mod (Tekken 3)

JammaGuy

Previously I-d-o-s-k-8
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Posts
768
I had a leaky battery on my Tekken 3 pcb, and decided I should go ahead and to a battery mod to make replacement easier.

As always, all images are thumb-nailed to make load times easier, just click thumbs to get the big picture!!!



What we need:
CR2032 Battery Holder Radio Shack
CR2032 Coin Battery Radio Shack (Can be found cheaper)
Small drill bit set (holes are drilled to fit cr2032 holder terminals)
Soldering Iron (I use a 25 WATT Pencil Iron for this project)
De-soldering vacuum/wick
Rosin core solder
Sharpie/permanent/magic marker
A spare 1 inch length of wire (20-24 gauge is best)
Soldering Flux (Not required)
Sand paper (I used 60 grit)
Hot Glue Gun + Hot Glue
Multimeter/Battery tester

Okay, lets get started!

Remove the original (BAD) coin cell CR2032 Battery by de-soldering the three points holding it in place.


Now carefully bend back this tab and salvage the part as best as possible.

I then Flattened the piece with a hammer and took some sandpaper to clean both side of the part off.

After it has been flattened and sanded, just barely (tack) solder the original points back to make sure we can drill the part and the pcb correctly

Since the part we salvaged is now stable, I marked with my marker where I'm going to drill my holes so that the battery terminals can sit though the pcb.
I carefully drill through the board making SURE that my drill-bit is not walking away from the points I had marked. This part was not easy!!

I test fit the holes with the battery holder to ensure that it is going to set in place like i plan.
With the once inch piece of wire i had laying around, i stripped of all the plastic, and carfully soldered it to the grounding terminal on the battery holder. The wire is traveling up through the bottom so that I can easily hide it when the battery holder is mounted.

I then removed the part salvaged from the original battery, set it on the positive post of the battery holder and use minimal solder to attach it to the terminal.

Carefully, I routed the wire attached to my negative battery holder terminal to my approximate solder location on the pcb before I set it into place.
Once routed, I set the battery holder into my holes and carefully soldered the negative "wire" to the pcb's original battery ground point. Then I just re-attached the salvaged part to the original positive battery solder points.

Now all that it takes is putting in the battery and testing with a multimeter/battery tester.

I see that my voltages are correct "on the board" obviously the battery terminals are going to read correctly, so make sure that you test the solder points on the actual pcb.

Then we test the board in our project location to see that it runs correctly!


I hope people can benefit from my experience, so I thought I'd share it with you.

-Bill
 
Last edited:

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
15 Year Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Posts
27,750
That I don't know, but it was corroded on the negative side pretty bad, so I just made it easy for replacement.

You need to take the battery out and see if there is voltage on the + terminal when the board is running, if there is then you need to disable the charging circuit. If you don't you can make that battery explode.
 

JammaGuy

Previously I-d-o-s-k-8
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Posts
768
You need to take the battery out and see if there is voltage on the + terminal when the board is running, if there is then you need to disable the charging circuit. If you don't you can make that battery explode.

Powered the board up without a battery, tested the positive leads and no voltage travels through. Slid the battery back in and my 1.8 is back. Good to go?
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
15 Year Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Posts
27,750
Should be since there was no voltage coming through without the battery.
 

JammaGuy

Previously I-d-o-s-k-8
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Posts
768
Sweet! Good call though, I would have never thought to check that. Thanks for the lesson oh wise one!
 
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