Jap Metal slug 2 fake or not

clubberlang

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I actually posted this thread in the general discussion before I was told to post it here.
I have a question about the Japanese Metal Slug 2 aes. I know there are lots of hi quality u.s. slug 2 conversions out there, but what about the japanese version? I'm thinking about buying one from someone. Could you guys help me out to see if it is legit? I have pics here. Thank you!!

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BIG BEAR

SHOCKbox Developer,
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Looks legit. I see some classic imperfections from normal wear over the years.
BB
 

waku7

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Clubber,
I've already seen a professionally made fake MS2 Jap boot.
On cover of the manual, take a magnifier, and look at the yellow " ROM" logo. If the line which draw a cart are totally straight, not raster( not like stairs), it has good chances to be legit.
Baseically, the spine of the cart, same thing. look at all the details, the trademarks, the R etc. Look also about the rond circle aroudn the neo geo logo on cartrridge. if it looks totally vector, or raster.
For this cart, it's very easy to spot a fake compared to a legit, because it has a crazy difference of colour. You should be amazed about the colors, they splash your face.

Everything must be vector.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics
 

clubberlang

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Here's some more pics, I haven't bought it yet. But now I'm thinking about just getting Slug X so I won't have to worry about a bootleg Slug 2. Thanks Waku7!!!

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waku7

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Ask for a high res scan of the first page of the manual(cover with the yellow thing)

Buy the game from a well known guy

tell the seller to open the game

Don't buy it as is, even if it looks legit.
 

clubberlang

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Thanks Waku7, I decided I'm gonna pass on it, if I have to worry about all of those over factors, forget it!!! I'll just stick with Slug X, if I can get one reasonable.
 

CORY

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Thanks Waku7, I decided I'm gonna pass on it, if I have to worry about all of those over factors, forget it!!! I'll just stick with Slug X, if I can get one reasonable.

Actually, Metal Slug X as well as Metal Slug 3 conversions are now possible so you still be at risk.

This MS2 looks legit but no matter what anyone think or tell, the one and only way to be 100% sure that the game you're buying isn't a conversion is to open the cart and check the solder joints on the boards. I've seen genuine inserts and manuals with bootleg carts as well a real carts with fake inserts or manuals so whatever Metal Slug you're buying, get pics of the boards.

It's easy to open an AES cart, there is some DIY tutorials, google is your friend, JammaNationX is your best friend. Don't use a screwdriver or anything metalic like this retard on youtube, use your thumbs and some plastic tools. Also, do this on cheap/common games first and learn how to open your carts properly without damaging the label before opening a Slug cart.
 

clubberlang

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Damn they can convert Slug 3 and X carts? I was told it was pointless to do because you would need to buy an MVS Slug X and 3 to make an aes cart. That's what I was told, so it wouldn't be worth the money to do it. Thanks for the info Coryoon?
 

Sherlin

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If you're not buying it from the NeoStore, then it's fake. :D
 

clubberlang

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Lol!! So that means I would have to pay 3X the amount. I can just imagine what it would sell for at the Neo store.
 

waku7

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Actually, Metal Slug X as well as Metal Slug 3 conversions are now possible so you still be at risk.

This MS2 looks legit but no matter what anyone think or tell, the one and only way to be 100% sure that the game you're buying isn't a conversion is to open the cart and check the solder joints on the boards. I've seen genuine inserts and manuals with bootleg carts as well a real carts with fake inserts or manuals so whatever Metal Slug you're buying, get pics of the boards.

It's easy to open an AES cart, there is some DIY tutorials, google is your friend, JammaNationX is your best friend. Don't use a screwdriver or anything metalic like this retard on youtube, use your thumbs and some plastic tools. Also, do this on cheap/common games first and learn how to open your carts properly without damaging the label before opening a Slug cart.

Actually, I would love to know which games with original manuals and insert but with fake carts you've seen, because it looks totally silly from all point ( economic, collectible, and so on). The other is legitimate, having a real PCB from a japan game, with fake us inserts, from a value point of view.

I personally think the contrary, SNK, as we've already seen, had some strange pcb habits, especially on the Metal Slug1 and the Overtop. So first, check if insert and manual are original, if you hae game in your hands. Second, open the pcb. But as I told and hae been told by HPMAN too, sometimes, manual soldering, on front and back of pcbs is not a proof that it's a fake, especially if the game has original manual and insert.
 

MCF 76

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As everyone else has stated before collecting AES games these days is very scarry business! Fucking damn shame you can't even enjoy this hobby anymore. :very_ang: I'm glad I almost have everything I want then I'm done. :-J
 

CORY

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Actually, I would love to know which games with original manuals and insert but with fake carts you've seen, because it looks totally silly from all point ( economic, collectible, and so on). The other is legitimate, having a real PCB from a japan game, with fake us inserts, from a value point of view.

I personally think the contrary, SNK, as we've already seen, had some strange pcb habits, especially on the Metal Slug1 and the Overtop. So first, check if insert and manual are original, if you hae game in your hands. Second, open the pcb. But as I told and hae been told by HPMAN too, sometimes, manual soldering, on front and back of pcbs is not a proof that it's a fake, especially if the game has original manual and insert.

Personnaly, I won't take any chance these days. If all the roms on the boards are manual soldered, it's a conversion. If one or 2 roms or some other chips are manually soldered, then it could be a repair job, you're right about that. Hand soldering is costly and not economically viable though so soldering all the roms on both boards manually sounds ridiculous. You'd be surprised by what you can find on Yahoo auctions and ebay. I've seen a real japanese Kizuna cart with fake insert and manual as well as fake Waku Waku 7 cart with real insert (used and vector) and manual. I think you can still find real Metal Slug 2 and X carts with fake insert on ebay right now.

The Slug X and Slug 3 conversions are really easy to spot though because the bootleggers needs to burn eproms to do them, they can't only use original roms from the MVS carts. I think you can still find a Metal Slug 3 conversion on ebay right now (or use the completed auctions search option if it's sold).
 
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city41

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Damn they can convert Slug 3 and X carts?

I've seen MS3 conversions on ebay. And MS3, even the JPN version, is in the $700 range. Making it just desirable enough to be worth making bootlegs for. The US version is worth even more.

But also keep in mind MS2 is way better than MSX, so you should try to get it :D

I bought my MS2 AES from a trusted source and I did pay more than market value for it just because I liked knowing it was legit.

Oh and, I'm not an expert at all on this, so take that for what it's worth. But that MS2 looks legit to me.
 
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BIG BEAR

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MS2 is definitely one of the more solid titles to own most specifically on AES and the cover illustration is second to none. The style of 2's game play also closer to it's predecessor imo.
BB

But also keep in mind MS2 is way better than MSX, so you should try to get it :D
 

clubberlang

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Alright city41 now I own a jap aes Metal slug 3 1st run, I bought it off someone on ebay. So now you got me thinking my copy could be fake, I guess I will post up pics of it so someone can verify if it's legit. Lol!!
 

waku7

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Personnaly, I won't take any chance these days. If all the roms on the boards are manual soldered, it's a conversion. If one or 2 roms or some other chips are manually soldered, then it could be a repair job, you're right about that. Hand soldering is costly and not economically viable though so soldering all the roms on both boards manually sounds ridiculous. You'd be surprised by what you can find on Yahoo auctions and ebay. I've seen a real japanese Kizuna cart with fake insert and manual as well as fake Waku Waku 7 cart with real insert (used and vector) and manual. I think you can still find real Metal Slug 2 and X carts with fake insert on ebay right now.

The Slug X and Slug 3 conversions are really easy to spot though because the bootleggers needs to burn eproms to do them, they can't only use original roms from the MVS carts. I think you can still find a Metal Slug 3 conversion on ebay right now (or use the completed auctions search option if it's sold).

Actually, I was thinking the same for years( no hand soldering for legit games), until I bought from a very close friend a Metal Slug 1 Japan which he purchased in Japan around 98. Papers are original, sticker is original, manual is original. The PCBS are machinery soldered for front of them, and back is hand made. And HPMAN spotted another original Metal Slug 1 japan, with the contrary. Manually soldered for front of the pcb, and machine soldered for back. I explained this in this topic :
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...ith-exotic-PCBS.-Billie-Jean-BLACK-AND-WHITE-!
 

CORY

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Actually, I was thinking the same for years( no hand soldering for legit games), until I bought from a very close friend a Metal Slug 1 Japan which he purchased in Japan around 98. Papers are original, sticker is original, manual is original. The PCBS are machinery soldered for front of them, and back is hand made. And HPMAN spotted another original Metal Slug 1 japan, with the contrary. Manually soldered for front of the pcb, and machine soldered for back. I explained this in this topic :
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...ith-exotic-PCBS.-Billie-Jean-BLACK-AND-WHITE-!

Did you see Xian Xi's post in your other thread ?

I'ts called wave soldering. They apply flux where they want the solder to adhere on the back of the board. If you look closely you can see that they put flux only on the pins they needed. I think after production increased, SNK abandoned that meticulous method and started fluxing the entire board which is why the newer boards have so much excess flux. The just painted the whole thing with flux.
 
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