need advice on a chassis problem

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so a earlier this week I picked up a cab that may have not been powered on for the last ten years:

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...dy-Cabs-quot&p=3336838&viewfull=1#post3336838

The chassis is a Toei TC-HE28LMJ, which I cant find anything about online

so anyway I fire on this cab for the first time in forever and after an hour of fiddling I get a fantastic image, everything worked great for a few days and the picture was great. After about ten hours of use total I hear a loud electrical arc snap. I pause for a few minutes but it changed nothing on the machine so I kept playing. Last night I heard this snap again but this time after an hour or so the snap started repeating every few minutes.

So I pop off the rear service panel to see a giant electrical arc form from around the flyback adjustment knobs and arc over to a nearby heatsync. I watched it awhile and sure enough every few minutes this repeated.

So first question, is this a common sign of a flyback failure or should I be looking at something else?

Second question, do you guys know of any other chassis that should work with a Toshiba A66JLH90X tube?

any help on this is really appreciated :help:
 

Dion

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Yep. Common sign of flyback failure. Pull the chassis and see if you can find some numbers on the fly.
 
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Had a chance to remove the flyback this morning, sure enough nice big crack right above the knobs:
DSC01851.jpg


and here are the numbers I found:
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/rr338/voltronbadass/DSC01854.jpg
http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/rr338/voltronbadass/DSC01859.jpg

I would imagine the numbers I am looking for are the ones printed on the flyback itself and not the paper label?

I'll see what I can find when I get home from work later.
 
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Thanks, this is my first flyback repair and you guys are making it too easy :cool:

Well you AND this hakko 808 de-soldering gun I keep borrowing :p
 

Dion

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Be happy once you see if they actually HAVE the fly. Just because they list it doesn't mean they have it...

BTW...if you need to you can get a replacement chassis but it will probably only support standard rez. Which that monitor might have only done anyways.

PS--Hakko 808 is nice. And much lighter and easier to use than it looks. Just gotta keep a good supply of filters on hand.
 
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So the place bustedstr8 pointed out orders them directly to you from their supplier in china, estimated shipping time is three weeks.

This place also had them http://technotronic-dimensions.com/ they have them on order and expecting them within two weeks.

I am going ahead with an order from both places, just in case one flyback doesnt show up for months. Also I guess I can see if one looks better manufactured than the other.

@ mitsurugi-w: I know to find a replacement chassis you need the resistance readings from the tube. Is there a table or chart somewhere of whats compatible or with these values listed out? I'm curious for any future oddball cabs and tubes that may need replacing. Also the stock chassis is 15/24k but I only ever plan to use 15.
 
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Dion

Known Scammer, NeoGeoFreak Co-Founder
Joined
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@ mitsurugi-w: I know to find a replacement chassis you need the resistance readings from the tube. Is there a table or chart somewhere of whats compatible or with these values listed out? I'm curious for any future oddball cabs and tubes that may need replacing. Also the stock chassis is 15/24k but I only ever plan to use 15.

http://www.8liners.com/datatech/monitor.html
 
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