Latest 2 slot console (EXTREME!!!)

LoL.

Anyways, I would like to thank both Razoola and supergoose79 for their input on this one. Raz helped with some UNI Bios stuff and supergoose gave me the idea of mounting down the hardware with Hot Glue along with some other tips.


<img src="http://sgrepository.com/albums/broken02/close_carts.jpg" alt=" - " />

Up front of the new console. Pair of Insert coin buttons up front for player 1 and player 2. I built this one for Tetsuo311 and I am overall pleased with the way it turned out. My painting skillZ are average at best.

<img src="http://sgrepository.com/albums/broken02/inside.jpg" alt=" - " />

Now here is something I am proud of. I kept the inside wiring very neat and clean and use a different mounting system this time around. I Hot glued down the components. The PSU sits on top a small plastic base and is glued to it and then glued to the case. The JROK is mounted with screws to its plastic base and then that plastic base it also glued to the case. When I ordered the JROK, I asked for it to be shiped with no video connectors to be attached to it as I wanted to use a panel mount svideo connector and no composite. Also there is a RGB output on the console.


<img src="http://sgrepository.com/albums/broken02/rear.jpg" alt=" - " />

Backside of the console. Pretty standard stuff. I used a 8 pin DIN for the RGB output that way a standard NEO AES rgb cable can be used.

You can check out some more pic at SGR <a href="http://www.sgrepository.com/modules.php?set_albumName=broken02&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php" target="_blank">HERE</a>.

Thoughts?

Thoughts?? Yeah I have one.....am I the luckiest guy in the forums or what?? This has to be by far the coolest MVS console I have ever seen. Thanks Todd you Rock buttrock

<small>[ May 26, 2003, 11:22 PM: Message edited by: Tetsuo311 ]</small>

Just a word of caution with using hot melt glue.

It is not a permanant glue, after some time it will unstick itself.

I have used alot of hotmelt glue at work over the years, it is a nice temporary adhesive.

You should have used a combination of Hot Melt Glue with Silicone. The Silicone will hold for alot longer than just Hot Melt Glue alone.

For even longer lasting stick you could even use Liquid Nails, it costs just a few $$$.

Nice Work BTW!!!

Here's mine: make_fac make_fac

<img src="http://home.attbi.com/~robert.wallace/Shadow_4.JPG" alt=" - " />

Oh,man they're Sweeet..

Robert Wallace:
Just a word of caution with using hot melt glue.

It is not a permanant glue, after some time it will unstick itself.

I have used alot of hotmelt glue at work over the years, it is a nice temporary adhesive.

You should have used a combination of Hot Melt Glue with Silicone. The Silicone will hold for alot longer than just Hot Melt Glue alone.

For even longer lasting stick you could even use Liquid Nails, it costs just a few $$$.

Click to expand...

Hmm...noted. I will check into some other adhesive tomorrow. I wonder if liquid nails is conductive though?

Ohh...and your 4 slot is the bomb. Very nice finish on it.

Liquid nails is not conductive, that name is just another name for panel adhesive.

It is also semi-easy to remove if you ever wanted to take off the RBG Encoder. The Liquid Nails is some tough S**T, it is good if you dont plan on removing the parts glued.

If you do use the Silicone, I would reccomend spotting the 4 corners about the size of a dime and only using hot-melt glue in 1 small spot.

We use this combination because the hot glue will set up very fast and the silicone will hold for a very long time.

My 4 slot is actually made by !Arcade! one of the Shadow 4 Systems.

Robert Wallace:
Liquid nails is not conductive, that name is just another name for panel adhesive.

It is also semi-easy to remove if you ever wanted to take off the RBG Encoder. The Liquid Nails is some tough S**T, it is good if you dont plan on removing the parts glued.

If you do use the Silicone, I would reccomend spotting the 4 corners about the size of a dime and only using hot-melt glue in 1 small spot.

We use this combination because the hot glue will set up very fast and the silicone will hold for a very long time.

My 4 slot is actually made by !Arcade! one of the Shadow 4 Systems.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. I will check into some liquid nails or silicone tomorrow.

I was thinking that looked like a Shadow 4. Very nice indeed.

nice. <img src="http://www.privatboard.net/iv/html/emoticons/thumbup.gif" alt=" - " />

i ordered 3 of those din sockets, yesterday. now take a guess, what i will need them for.
it's also nice to see kenny's s-video socket mounted to a mvs system.

supergoose79:
nice. <img src="http://www.privatboard.net/iv/html/emoticons/thumbup.gif" alt=" - " />

i ordered 3 of those din sockets, yesterday. now take a guess, what i will need them for.
it's also nice to see kenny's s-video socket mounted to a mvs system.

Click to expand...

My paint job isn't nearly as nice as yours on that recent 2 slot of yours. Yeah those 8 pin din sockets are very nice and fairly easy to work with. Pricey, but nice.

I would like to find another source for some more s-video connectors similiar to what kenny uses, except maybe something that doesn't require modding. I have a couple panel mounts that Jrok supplied, but they require mounting screws.

broken Yeah those 8 pin din sockets are very nice and fairly easy to work with. Pricey, but nice.

Click to expand...

the owner of our local elecronics shop said, that they are 3€ a piece. so ... compared to kenny's $6 s-video sockets ...

I would like to find another source for some more s-video connectors similiar to what kenny uses, except maybe something that doesn't require modding. I have a couple panel mounts that Jrok supplied, but they require mounting screws.

Click to expand...

i gave up. this is all i found in germany :

<img src="http://www.spicken.de/whg_99_abi/pics/svid.jpg" alt=" - " />

2.50€. frown

sexy sexy sexy - uh-oh

Very very nice.. the PSU from J's?


nice shadow 4 too

nice one

Raz

Wow, that's an impressive work... Congrats Broken! buttrock

I've always thought it was a much better idea to make a general purpose supergun, but the results are very neat...

Well, I have very limited knowledge about how all this works, but I have some questions:

It looks like you are only feeding +5V to the board and not +12V. How's that?

How (through what) is the sound outputted?

Why are there coin buttons, if you are using the unibios and you can only hook Neo-compatible controllers, supposedly featuring the select button?

Amano Jacu:
Why are there coin buttons, if you are using the unibios and you can only hook Neo-compatible controllers, supposedly featuring the select button?

Click to expand...

On multislot hardware the select buttons do not double as coins slots. This is to stop game selecting also inserting coins.

Raz

Amano Jacu:

It looks like you are only feeding +5V to the board and not +12V. How's that?

How (through what) is the sound outputted?

Why are there coin buttons, if you are using the unibios and you can only hook Neo-compatible controllers, supposedly featuring the select button?

Click to expand...

Yes the PSU is +5 volts only. It was discovered last year that you can bypass the onboard voltage regulator (7805 I believe) and this will power the audio. Since the audio section of the board is actually stepped down from 12 to 5 volts (via that regulator), this works actually well.

Pic:
<img src="http://www.sgrepository.com/albums/broken01/bottom2.jpg" alt=" - " />
The yellow wire is where I jumpered over the regulator. The white cable is ran from the bottom of the one of the headphone ports and then ran up through the pcb to the stereo rca jacks on the back. Gives nice stereo audio.

As far as the Coin Insert buttons go, good question. They are only there for when in MVS mode as the select buttons won't actually add credits with the UNI bios. Atleast I don't think they will.

OK, now I understand this a bit more...
My electronic skills are not good enough to fully understand how the +12V issue works, but I have a general idea of what you did.
Yeah, I suspected you took profit of the headphone connector to output sound from it.
About the coin buttons, since I've never had a multislot I didn't know that. In any case they are a bit unnedeed, as you can still allow freeplay (even without the unibios), but nonetheless they are a nice addition.

help Ok i'll admit it... I'M F@#$ING JEALOUS!! envy Why couldn't I have mad soldering skills like you guys (instead I do mad programming... ) Anyway, is there some sort of guide you guys are using? I REALLY want to do this to my 4 slot but I don't have the foggiest idea on where to start.

Again, If anybody wants to volunteer to do a job for me i'll GLADLY pay you. I don't need S-video or anything like that. Just the basics with RGB out (I have a jamma harness that you can probably use for parts) Any takers? PM me. I really don't want to go near ANY of my neo hardware with a soldering iron again but... help

Finally got my jamma harness today so, my baby should be complete within days

Guys,

Here's a pic of my Shadow 4 with a few modifications (internally)

<img src="http://home.dc.rr.com/seismicconcepts/images/shadow4.jpg" alt=" - " />

First off (this is directed towards Robert Wallace), are your "upgraded" audio ports that !Arcade! installed REALLY weak with the signal? (keep in mind, you must have that extra AC adaptor plugged in to power them)

If so RW, I tapped into the amplified stereo/headphone jack of the 4-slot board. It sounds 1000 times BETTER! I would HIGHLY recommend this fix for your Shadow (if you haven't already done so) You still have to use the extra AC adaptor....

My Shadow came with the MVS bios, which I did not want, so I substituted it with the Universe Bios.

It's BADASS fellas; once again, HIGHLY recommended for any kind of "MVS turn AES" system!

Enjoy,
Kpj

Fuck. The Shadow 4 was a bad ass looking piece of hardware. Is the outer shell the original metal case or a replacement plastic one? I was thinking at one time that !Arcade! was talking of having a plastic shell created for it before he actually sold them.

Mmmm...those pics would look mighty good over @ <a href="http://sgrepository.com/" target="_blank">SGR</a> in their own gallery.

Okay guys I'm trying to comprehend how all this works...

To hook it all up to the board, do you just bypass the jamma harness and do a straight solder to the edge connector using the jamma pinout?

@ broken :
i always thought, that it's the original one. prolly powder coated, which caused the plastic look.

c.t.h:
Okay guys I'm trying to comprehend how all this works...

To hook it all up to the board, do you just bypass the jamma harness and do a straight solder to the edge connector using the jamma pinout?

Click to expand...

yes.
but you can also get the sound off of the headphone jack and you don't have to solder to the contacts of the jamma edge, if your board has those tiny solder spots.

<small>[ May 27, 2003, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: supergoose79 ]</small>

broken:
Fuck. The Shadow 4 was a bad ass looking piece of hardware. Is the outer shell the original metal case or a replacement plastic one? I was thinking at one time that !Arcade! was talking of having a plastic shell created for it before he actually sold them.

Mmmm...those pics would look mighty good over @ <a href="http://sgrepository.com/" target="_blank">SGR</a> in their own gallery.

Click to expand...

I believe the outer shell is the original, just painted quite nicely.

You can post my picture if you want, all I ask is that you put my name on it

Kpj

c.t.h:
To hook it all up to the board, do you just bypass the jamma harness and do a straight solder to the edge connector using the jamma pinout?

Click to expand...

You can do it that way. IF you don't feel confident in doing that, you can just use a Jamma harness instead. That way in case you make a mistake you don't end up damaging the pcb edge.

<small>[ May 28, 2003, 04:41 PM: Message edited by: MKL ]</small>