Broken about your 2 slot consolised????
- Thread starter Parallax
- Start date
<img src="http://www.corrosivelove.net/albums/broken/inside3.thumb.jpg" alt=" - " /> <img src="http://www.corrosivelove.net/albums/broken/harness5.thumb.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.corrosivelove.net/albums/broken/inside1.thumb.jpg" alt=" - " /> <img src="http://www.corrosivelove.net/albums/broken/bottom2.thumb.jpg" alt=" - " />
? Whats being wired to what? like in theses pic's. I looking for a FAQ or walk through of sorts.
<img src="http://www.corrosivelove.net/albums/broken/inside1.thumb.jpg" alt=" - " /> <img src="http://www.corrosivelove.net/albums/broken/bottom2.thumb.jpg" alt=" - " />
? Whats being wired to what? like in theses pic's. I looking for a FAQ or walk through of sorts.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2002
- Posts
- 8,214
Damn...i forgot about getting around to answering this post.
Some of this info is a duplicate of what I have already documented. But I will put it all here in one spot.
I will start from the bottom up.
---Bottom of the pcb mods---
<img src="http://sgrepository.com/stuff/mvs_gun/boardmod.jpg" alt=" - " />
There is only 5 point to solder to the bottom and that they aren't even 100% necessary.
The left side of the photo shows the audio cable coming though a hole on the side of the memory card slot.
There are 3 wires in the audio cable. Red one is for right audio, the white one is for left audio and the
wire shield that goes around the wires is the common ground. Each one gets soldered to a point on the pcb
right below the front headphone jack. You then can adjust the volume using the headphone slide control on
the front. Adjust it all the way up and this gets you nearly perfect line level audio. If you don't want to
mod the board for the audio, you can just wire a stereo 1/8" mini jack to the headphone port. The
functionality will be the same, just not as neat as the solder to the pcb mod.
Back at the rca jacks on the back of the chassis, the wiring is fairly self explanatory. You wire the right
and left jacks with their respective wires and then solder the ground wire to one of the jacks ground
points and then jumper it over to the other jack.
The other mod on the bottom (with the yellow wire) of the board allows it to function on just 5 volts.
Normally MVS boards require 12 volts to power the audio section, but on 2 slots and 4 slots, the 12 volt
input goes though a voltage regulator and gets dropped to 5 volts anyways. This mod just jumpers 5 volts to
the input/output of the 7805 voltage regulator. Then the board only requires to have a 5 volt power supply.
If you don't want to do this mod you can just substitute the psu for one that does 5 and 12 volts. Jameco
sells one that does both for around $14. It is a little larger than the 5 volt only model. The original
thread that covered this mod can be found
<a href="http://www.neo-geo.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=5&t=003435" target="_blank">HERE</a>.
Keep in mind these mods are specific to the 2 slot boards. There are 2 versions of the 2 slot that I know
of. One has the dip switches on the back left hand side (like mine) and the other has it on the front.
---Underneath the shell---
---Power Supply---
<img src="http://sgrepository.com/stuff/mvs_gun/undercasemod.jpg" alt=" - " />
I used a small piece of plastic underneath the power supply to protect it from shorting out against the
metal chassis.
Looking at the 2 wire AC input on both the power supply you will need to know which is the L (Hot) and the
N (Neutral). I have marked on my pictures which is which.
Typically the Hot connection is a black wire and the Neutral is a white wire. The ground is typically a
green or green with yellow stripe wire.
Each link at Jameco to the different psu's have a tech doc in pdf that you can view to determine which is
which since they don't appear to be marked on the PSU's. I highly suggest looking at these before doing
anything.
On it there should be markings as to which is the N and which is the L. Wire the N directly to the
connector for the N on the PSU.
You will want to install a power switch and a fuse also if the psu you are looking at doesn't have one. The
one I used didn't have a fuse. Wire them inline on the L ( Hot) connection to the PSU.
Jameco also offers some of these AC receptacle's with a fuse and switch. You might want to look at one of
those.
The ground pin is the roundish bottom pin on the receptacle and you will want to connect it to the corner
of the PSU (there will be a marking at one of the corners, this is kinda blocked off in my picture) and
also connect it to the metal chassis.
Double and Triple check everything before plugging it in. I highly suggest picking up an inexpensive
multimeter to check all your connections.
On the other end of the PSU we have a 4 pin connector that has to +5 volt lines and 2 ground lines. I
decided that I would connect the JROK encoder directly to the connector using one of the 5 volt and one of
the ground pins in the connector and then using the others to go over to the barrier strip that then
connects to the harness. You could omit the barrier strip and wire direct if you like.
---Video and Audio---
In the first section I covered the audio hookups and what made it work. In a nutshell, I wired a pair of
RCA jacks to the pins off the headphone connector on the bottom of the pcb. You could just use a stereo
1/8th inch miniplug and wire it the rca jacks and then plug it into the headphone jacks. Thats what my
picture above shows, but this was revised and I wired direct with a disconnect plug on my last revision.
The JROK includes the power and video wires and connectors (prewired) and basically you just wire these to
their respective places. Make sure when wiring up the power to the jrok not to reverse it. You WILL
most likely cook it and that would be $80 or so down the drain.
There are 5 wires coming from the JROK video section that get wired to the harness direct. Red, Green,
Blue, Sync and Ground. Like I said above, these wires are prewired to the connector and just need to match
them to the correct spots on the harness. These will most likely need to be lengthened to fit, since they
are only about 6 inchs long.
---The Harness---
I have included 2 photos for this. One shows the wiring and the other is from a pdf over at
<a href="http://www.hardmvs.com" target="_blank">http://www.hardmvs.com</a> .
<img src="http://sgrepository.com/stuff/mvs_gun/harnesswire.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://sgrepository.com/stuff/mvs_gun/mvs.gif" alt=" - " />
Using the 2 pictures above you should be able to see the wiring I have done. Basically at the ground and 5
volt spots I bridged between all 4 points (for each connection) when soldering in the 18 gauge power wire
to reduce the number of wires needed. Normally there are 8 ground wires and 4 +5 volt wires needed, but by
doing what I did, I reduced this to 2 ground wires and 1 +5 volt wire.
The other pins show the R, G, B , Sync and Ground wires that go to the JROK encoder.
---Parts List---
Parts from Radio Shack:
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F010%5F007%5F002%5F000&product%5Fid=275%2D693" target="_blank">Single Pole Single Throw switch</a> - $2.69
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F010%5F015%5F007%5F000&product%5Fid=270%2D1238" target="_blank">In Line fuse holder</a> - $1.99. You will also need to pick up some suitable fuses. I used 250v 10 amp ones.
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F003%5F006%5F000&product%5Fid=274%2D658" target="_blank">Barrier Strip used to connect power to harness and video encoder</a> - $1.99
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F003%5F009%5F006&product%5Fid=274%2D852" target="_blank">Gold Plated RCA Jacks for Audio</a> - $1.99
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F007%5F010%5F000&product%5Fid=276%2D1381" target="_blank">Insulated Standoffs that support the RGB encoder</a> - $2.69
Parts from JROK:
<a href="http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html" target="_blank">JROK RGB to NTSC Video Encoder</a> - About $82.00 shipped in the US. Comes with its power and video cable and connectors to wire to the harness.
Parts from Happ:
<a href="http://www.happcontrols.com/wp/item_search.html?item-no=49-0011-00" target="_blank">Jamma Edge connector</a> - $3.30
Parts from Jameco
<a href="https://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=91&prrfnbr=354744&cgrfnbr=780&ctgys=503;528;780;" target="_blank">5v 4.4 amp Power Supply</a> - $8.95
<a href="http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/report?sort=BPA&search=104432" target="_blank">3pin AC input connector (6pin shown in the photo)</a> - $1.90 (must buy packs of 10, hence the price)
<a href="http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/report?sort=BPA&search=104715" target="_blank">4 pin output connector (6 pin shown)</a> - $2.20 (must buy packs of 10, hence the price)
<a href="http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/report?sort=BPA&search=78318" target="_blank">Crimp Pins for both connectors</a> - $2.20 (i suggest this price because that is what 20 would cost)
<a href="http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/report?sort=BKW&search=16651" target="_blank">AC connector for power cord</a> - $.69
You will also need 18 gauge power wire for power to the harness, 20 gauge wire for extending the power and RGB connections to the JROK and for audio hookup.
Keep in mind that I have linked to a 5 volt only power supply and normally the mvs boards require both 5 volt and 12 volt. I have modded the board in a very simple way as to allow its audio section to work on
just the 5 volts from the PSU by jumping over a voltage regulator.
---Conclusion---
As you can see the price of the project isn't very expensive except for the 2 slot mvs board and the JROK RGB Encoder. For the most part everything is a wire point A to point A, point B to point B kind of affair. I didn't include any kind of drilling or cutting measurements on purpose...you will be left to your own accord on that.
As always, questions, concerns or clarifications, just ask.
Note: This should be 100% accurate, but always double check everything to make sure I didn't accidently mislabel something.
buttrock
<small>[ April 06, 2003, 01:35 PM: Message edited by: broken ]</small>
Some of this info is a duplicate of what I have already documented. But I will put it all here in one spot.
I will start from the bottom up.
---Bottom of the pcb mods---
<img src="http://sgrepository.com/stuff/mvs_gun/boardmod.jpg" alt=" - " />
There is only 5 point to solder to the bottom and that they aren't even 100% necessary.
The left side of the photo shows the audio cable coming though a hole on the side of the memory card slot.
There are 3 wires in the audio cable. Red one is for right audio, the white one is for left audio and the
wire shield that goes around the wires is the common ground. Each one gets soldered to a point on the pcb
right below the front headphone jack. You then can adjust the volume using the headphone slide control on
the front. Adjust it all the way up and this gets you nearly perfect line level audio. If you don't want to
mod the board for the audio, you can just wire a stereo 1/8" mini jack to the headphone port. The
functionality will be the same, just not as neat as the solder to the pcb mod.
Back at the rca jacks on the back of the chassis, the wiring is fairly self explanatory. You wire the right
and left jacks with their respective wires and then solder the ground wire to one of the jacks ground
points and then jumper it over to the other jack.
The other mod on the bottom (with the yellow wire) of the board allows it to function on just 5 volts.
Normally MVS boards require 12 volts to power the audio section, but on 2 slots and 4 slots, the 12 volt
input goes though a voltage regulator and gets dropped to 5 volts anyways. This mod just jumpers 5 volts to
the input/output of the 7805 voltage regulator. Then the board only requires to have a 5 volt power supply.
If you don't want to do this mod you can just substitute the psu for one that does 5 and 12 volts. Jameco
sells one that does both for around $14. It is a little larger than the 5 volt only model. The original
thread that covered this mod can be found
<a href="http://www.neo-geo.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=5&t=003435" target="_blank">HERE</a>.
Keep in mind these mods are specific to the 2 slot boards. There are 2 versions of the 2 slot that I know
of. One has the dip switches on the back left hand side (like mine) and the other has it on the front.
---Underneath the shell---
---Power Supply---
<img src="http://sgrepository.com/stuff/mvs_gun/undercasemod.jpg" alt=" - " />
I used a small piece of plastic underneath the power supply to protect it from shorting out against the
metal chassis.
Looking at the 2 wire AC input on both the power supply you will need to know which is the L (Hot) and the
N (Neutral). I have marked on my pictures which is which.
Typically the Hot connection is a black wire and the Neutral is a white wire. The ground is typically a
green or green with yellow stripe wire.
Each link at Jameco to the different psu's have a tech doc in pdf that you can view to determine which is
which since they don't appear to be marked on the PSU's. I highly suggest looking at these before doing
anything.
On it there should be markings as to which is the N and which is the L. Wire the N directly to the
connector for the N on the PSU.
You will want to install a power switch and a fuse also if the psu you are looking at doesn't have one. The
one I used didn't have a fuse. Wire them inline on the L ( Hot) connection to the PSU.
Jameco also offers some of these AC receptacle's with a fuse and switch. You might want to look at one of
those.
The ground pin is the roundish bottom pin on the receptacle and you will want to connect it to the corner
of the PSU (there will be a marking at one of the corners, this is kinda blocked off in my picture) and
also connect it to the metal chassis.
Double and Triple check everything before plugging it in. I highly suggest picking up an inexpensive
multimeter to check all your connections.
On the other end of the PSU we have a 4 pin connector that has to +5 volt lines and 2 ground lines. I
decided that I would connect the JROK encoder directly to the connector using one of the 5 volt and one of
the ground pins in the connector and then using the others to go over to the barrier strip that then
connects to the harness. You could omit the barrier strip and wire direct if you like.
---Video and Audio---
In the first section I covered the audio hookups and what made it work. In a nutshell, I wired a pair of
RCA jacks to the pins off the headphone connector on the bottom of the pcb. You could just use a stereo
1/8th inch miniplug and wire it the rca jacks and then plug it into the headphone jacks. Thats what my
picture above shows, but this was revised and I wired direct with a disconnect plug on my last revision.
The JROK includes the power and video wires and connectors (prewired) and basically you just wire these to
their respective places. Make sure when wiring up the power to the jrok not to reverse it. You WILL
most likely cook it and that would be $80 or so down the drain.
There are 5 wires coming from the JROK video section that get wired to the harness direct. Red, Green,
Blue, Sync and Ground. Like I said above, these wires are prewired to the connector and just need to match
them to the correct spots on the harness. These will most likely need to be lengthened to fit, since they
are only about 6 inchs long.
---The Harness---
I have included 2 photos for this. One shows the wiring and the other is from a pdf over at
<a href="http://www.hardmvs.com" target="_blank">http://www.hardmvs.com</a> .
<img src="http://sgrepository.com/stuff/mvs_gun/harnesswire.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://sgrepository.com/stuff/mvs_gun/mvs.gif" alt=" - " />
Using the 2 pictures above you should be able to see the wiring I have done. Basically at the ground and 5
volt spots I bridged between all 4 points (for each connection) when soldering in the 18 gauge power wire
to reduce the number of wires needed. Normally there are 8 ground wires and 4 +5 volt wires needed, but by
doing what I did, I reduced this to 2 ground wires and 1 +5 volt wire.
The other pins show the R, G, B , Sync and Ground wires that go to the JROK encoder.
---Parts List---
Parts from Radio Shack:
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F010%5F007%5F002%5F000&product%5Fid=275%2D693" target="_blank">Single Pole Single Throw switch</a> - $2.69
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F010%5F015%5F007%5F000&product%5Fid=270%2D1238" target="_blank">In Line fuse holder</a> - $1.99. You will also need to pick up some suitable fuses. I used 250v 10 amp ones.
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F003%5F006%5F000&product%5Fid=274%2D658" target="_blank">Barrier Strip used to connect power to harness and video encoder</a> - $1.99
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F003%5F009%5F006&product%5Fid=274%2D852" target="_blank">Gold Plated RCA Jacks for Audio</a> - $1.99
<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F007%5F010%5F000&product%5Fid=276%2D1381" target="_blank">Insulated Standoffs that support the RGB encoder</a> - $2.69
Parts from JROK:
<a href="http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html" target="_blank">JROK RGB to NTSC Video Encoder</a> - About $82.00 shipped in the US. Comes with its power and video cable and connectors to wire to the harness.
Parts from Happ:
<a href="http://www.happcontrols.com/wp/item_search.html?item-no=49-0011-00" target="_blank">Jamma Edge connector</a> - $3.30
Parts from Jameco
<a href="https://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=91&prrfnbr=354744&cgrfnbr=780&ctgys=503;528;780;" target="_blank">5v 4.4 amp Power Supply</a> - $8.95
<a href="http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/report?sort=BPA&search=104432" target="_blank">3pin AC input connector (6pin shown in the photo)</a> - $1.90 (must buy packs of 10, hence the price)
<a href="http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/report?sort=BPA&search=104715" target="_blank">4 pin output connector (6 pin shown)</a> - $2.20 (must buy packs of 10, hence the price)
<a href="http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/report?sort=BPA&search=78318" target="_blank">Crimp Pins for both connectors</a> - $2.20 (i suggest this price because that is what 20 would cost)
<a href="http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.d2w/report?sort=BKW&search=16651" target="_blank">AC connector for power cord</a> - $.69
You will also need 18 gauge power wire for power to the harness, 20 gauge wire for extending the power and RGB connections to the JROK and for audio hookup.
Keep in mind that I have linked to a 5 volt only power supply and normally the mvs boards require both 5 volt and 12 volt. I have modded the board in a very simple way as to allow its audio section to work on
just the 5 volts from the PSU by jumping over a voltage regulator.
---Conclusion---
As you can see the price of the project isn't very expensive except for the 2 slot mvs board and the JROK RGB Encoder. For the most part everything is a wire point A to point A, point B to point B kind of affair. I didn't include any kind of drilling or cutting measurements on purpose...you will be left to your own accord on that.
As always, questions, concerns or clarifications, just ask.
Note: This should be 100% accurate, but always double check everything to make sure I didn't accidently mislabel something.
buttrock
<small>[ April 06, 2003, 01:35 PM: Message edited by: broken ]</small>
Mr. Wizard
Angel's Love Slave
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2002
- Posts
- 918
Will you be making this info available on your site broken? I will eventually be making my own supergun and this would be most helpfull to have available. 
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2002
- Posts
- 8,214
Yeah, I am planning on putting something similiar on the site, I just want to spruce it up a bit. Add some more detail and more illustrated photos.Mr. Wizard:
Will you be making this info available on your site broken? I will eventually be making my own supergun and this would be most helpfull to have available.
Keep an eye out, it will probably be up there sometime in the near future.
