My CMVS Build progress

Finch

Finch

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Nearing the interesting stages of my second CMVS build. My first one was a 1fz and it's still unfinished as I got distracted with the prospect of a nice compact 1C build.

This is highly inspired by the Jamma Nation X Garou CMVS and it is built in the same enclosure (I tried to find something different but in the long run that's pretty much the best enclosure for this board).

I'll update the thread as I make progress and post pics.

to start off, I just got the enclosure powder coated. The color looks a bit more "Neo Red" in the picture than it does in person, but it's still very nice. Holes on the side panels are for some vents (decorative, more than functional)
4458094080_ac97627f05_o.jpg


Already done:
-Stereo Sound mod
-Backup battery mod
-Controller ports
-Video converter (using the awesome Neobitz-S)

Still to do:
-desolder BIOS Chip
-go crazy soldering on new BIOS
-Power LED
-extra aesthetic LED's inside.
-Assemble
-celebratory beer!
 
J

Jasen Hicks

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Sweet... what case is that? I am still looking for the best option for my SuperGun build.
 
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
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Also for desoldering the bios chip I use chipquick which I bought from curiousinventor. They sell a cheap kit around $20 so you don't have to buy that $100 kit from the maker of it. Very easy to use you'll shit yourself.
 
Finch

Finch

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Xian Xi said:
Nice dude, how did you cut the slot? CNC?
Click to expand...

There is a guy locally that makes custom Bike frames and he has a manual milling machine, he did it for $20. I wasn't going to tackle it by hand.


As for removing the bios, what is this chip-quick stuff? Where I work has an electronics lab with a heat gun made for SMD soldering, I was planning to use that, but I don't know how well it will work as I've never used it. Have you ever tried the heat gun thing? It's a really small one, has a nozzle about the diameter of straw so I think it will be precise enough.
 
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

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Chipquick is a solder that has a very low melting point so it stay molten for a while. All you do is apply the paste flux to the pins then heat the solder in a bead across all the legs on both sides of the chip then gently push the bios to remove it. Then clean off excess solder with solder wick then clean the flux off with an alcohol wipe.

If you go on youtube you'll see vids of it.
 
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

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or if you want to save money and dont plan on using the stock bios just cut of the legs from the highest point then wipe your soldering iron on the soldering pad to remove the leg.
 
Finch

Finch

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Xian Xi said:
or if you want to save money and dont plan on using the stock bios just cut of the legs from the highest point then wipe your soldering iron on the soldering pad to remove the leg.
Click to expand...

I wasn't really planning to re-use the stock bios, but I was going to try to not destroy it.

What do you think about the heat gun option?
 
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

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I would advise against it as the 1C has a bunch of caps that can easily catch wind of the heat gun. But that's just me.
 
Finch

Finch

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Xian Xi said:
I would advise against it as the 1C has a bunch of caps that can easily catch wind of the heat gun. But that's just me.
Click to expand...

hmm, good point. I know we use this one at work to solder on really tiny SMD ICs, but that's probably before there is anything else on the board.
 
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

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From what I remember the ICs can take some heat no problem, it's just the other stuff that you gotta worry about.
 
Finch

Finch

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Xian Xi said:
From what I remember the ICs can take some heat no problem, it's just the other stuff that you gotta worry about.
Click to expand...

The heat gun looks pretty accurate, so I think the big caps are safe (I already replaced them once anyways) but there is a little SMD device right next to the BIOS but I don't know what it is. It's going to get some massive heat though.
 
Hewitson

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Xian Xi said:
or if you want to save money and dont plan on using the stock bios just cut of the legs from the highest point then wipe your soldering iron on the soldering pad to remove the leg.
Click to expand...
I would advise against the heat gun as well. I also recommend this method.
 
Finch

Finch

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Ok, you guys win. I ordered some Chip Quick. It's super cheap from curious inventor and looks really useful. Hopefully it'll get here about the same time as my Uni-BIOS and I can plow through what has been the part I'm looking forward to the least in this entire build process.

I'll post results when I have some :-D
 
Finch

Finch

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w00t. My Uni-BIOS arrived today (in the most clever packaging ever) and I will be installing it tonight if time permits. I'll post pics and details when it's in.
 
Finch

Finch

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Bios Swap successful!

Accidentally bridged 2 pins on the PCB and had my first non-boot. Fixed the solder and tried again, black screen. Tried Bridging pins 40-39-38 together as suggested in the manual and Success! everything up and running perfectly. Time to install it in the enclosure.

You'll have to excuse how terrible iPhones are at taking pictures
4476291937_0a6b3fcf55_b.jpg
 
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

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Looks good so far. When I made the Garou CMVS I set the PCB pretty high in the enclosure so that the MVS cart didn't have to go very far in. This way it would prevent damage to the MVS cart from the cart slot.
 
Finch

Finch

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xiao_haozi said:
How was the quickchip deal?
Click to expand...

Man I'm glad you guy's recommended that stuff, works like a dream. Super easy to use and really simple cleanup afterward. I can only imagine the mess I would have made any other way.
 
Finch

Finch

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Xian Xi said:
Looks good so far. When I made the Garou CMVS I set the PCB pretty high in the enclosure so that the MVS cart didn't have to go very far in. This way it would prevent damage to the MVS cart from the cart slot.
Click to expand...

Mine is set pretty high too. I think not as high as yours, but maybe only one groove down or so. it kind of depends on how high I can get it with the battery mod and UniBIOS taking up space in there. I have an AES style output jack on the back and that takes up a fair bit of vertical space too so the board has to go above that.

I'm hoping the fact that I sanded the slot for the cart a fair bit, and that it's powdercoated, will generally prevent the system from scratching carts.


I did a few other kind of odd things with this build. My PCB is actually trimmed shorter so the slot is closer to the middle of the enclosure, only by a bit. Since the PCB is shorter it doesn't fit into the groove on both sides anymore so I have some aluminum stand-offs holding the board up that I bolted to the bottom panel through the holes on the sides of the cart socket. It makes for a super sturdy support so the PCB doesn't receive any stress from changing carts.
 
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