Adding a 4 slot MVS select button to Atomiswave SD Jamma Harness

360heelflip

360heelflip

Kula's Candy
Joined
Sep 24, 2005
Posts
292
I'm looking at getting a 4 slot MVS board for my Atomiswave SD cab. I'll need to add a select button to the harness, so am I correct in saying that I need to add it to the d 26 on the harness? What wiring should I use and where can I buy it in australia? Would this be an easy project to do?

My cab has 6 buttons, so I could use one of the spare two unused buttons for the select.
I don't think I'll be using any capcom boards, so won't need 6 buttons. I'm sure there's already a post asking the same thing, but the search function is a bit pooish :loco:

using this as reference:

http://hardmvs.com/manuals/Jamma2NeoGeo4SlotPinout.pdf
 
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
15 Year Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Posts
27,762
Your AW should already be wired for 5 buttons which includes the "Neo select" button.
 
MKL

MKL

Basara's Blade Keeper
20 Year Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Posts
3,686
Xian Xi said:
Your AW should already be wired for 5 buttons which includes the "Neo select" button.
Click to expand...

That's when the cab wiring is not altered. But if a kick harness was added, the original wiring of the bottom row buttons (where button 4 and 5 were wired to jamma 25 and 26) is likely to have been disconnected. Check the CP connectors J and K under the CP: they should have a couple of wires left hanging. Crimp them together with the kick harness wires to restore the original connections with the jamma harness.

See also:

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=27346&p=498307#p498307
(Egret 2 and AWSD are identical in this)
 
360heelflip

360heelflip

Kula's Candy
Joined
Sep 24, 2005
Posts
292
I looked under the CP, and buttons 5 and 6 are not connected. The cab has a Egret III 2 player CP connected to it. There are wires/pins connnected on 26, but not connected to anything on the other end, maybe player 1 and 2 select buttons? Will I be able to play Metal Slug 6? I think it uses 5 buttons? No?
 
Last edited:
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
15 Year Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Posts
27,762
Posting pics of the CP and harness might help a lot.
 
MKL

MKL

Basara's Blade Keeper
20 Year Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Posts
3,686
Your CP was originally a 4-button one so it's normal that the CP harness doesn't have wires for buttons 5 and 6, which were added later as an aftermarket mod.

You could get an original Taito 6 button panel (2L12B or 1L6B) but in that case the MVS layout will be:

Code: 
A	B	C

D	SEL	-

Or you could add the missing 5th button wire. This can be done in two ways:

1) From the CP connectors J and K to the buttons. You need JST YL crimp contacts which aren't easy to get hold of.

2) From the jamma wires directly to the buttons (i.e. bypassing connectors J and K), with a tap splice.

Then you need a ground wire for the button. This is most easily done by tapping it (with a tap splice) from the ground wire of another button.

If you want to go with the cleaner solution 1, I could make you a couple of wires since I have the correct crimp contacts. You would just need to add the ground (or I could do that as well).
 
Last edited:
360heelflip

360heelflip

Kula's Candy
Joined
Sep 24, 2005
Posts
292
MKL said:
Your CP was originally a 4-button one so it's normal that the CP harness doesn't have wires for buttons 5 and 6, which were added later as an aftermarket mod.

You could get an original Taito 6 button panel (2L12B or 1L6B) but in that case the MVS layout will be:

Code: 
A	B	C

D	SEL	-

Or you could add the missing 5th button wire. This can be done in two ways:

1) From the CP connectors J and K to the buttons. You need JST YL crimp contacts which aren't easy to get hold of.

2) From the jamma wires directly to the buttons (i.e. bypassing connectors J and K), with a tap splice.

Then you need a ground wire for the button. This is most easily done by tapping it (with a tap splice) from the ground wire of another button.

If you want to go with the cleaner solution 1, I could make you a couple of wires since I have the correct crimp contacts. You would just need to add the ground (or I could do that as well).
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help mate! So, if I get you to make the first option, I would need you to do a ground wire as well as I'm clueless with this stuff. Will it be for both players, both with have buttons five and six?

Would it be easy for me to do once I would have the wires from you? I want to be able to play Metal Slug 6 properly once I'm able to get a hold of one. I might just stick with a 1 slot.

Cheers!
 
MKL

MKL

Basara's Blade Keeper
20 Year Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Posts
3,686
The ground wiring for your AWSD panel is like this:

A single black GND wire comes off P1 connector J and goes to a closed end splice. Six more wires come off said splice and go to the four action butons, start button and 5-pin stick connector L. Same thing is repeated for P2.

If you don't want to do the tap splice thing (or any other kind of modding job), then you need to replace the abovementioned ground wiring with one (made by me) that has one or two more wires (for grounding button 5 and 6) coming off the closed end splice. What you would need to do is extract the ground wires from connector J and L, disconnect the QD's from the buttons, cut the zip ties that hold the wiring together and replace everything with the new wiring.

Do you actually want to do it this way instead of just tapping ground from an existing wire and crimp a QD?

As for button 6 (not used by MVS or Atomiswave games), in an AWSD cab it is connected from the cab side of CP connectors J and K to connector C3 (the 14-pin one that you hold in one of your pics) which is meant to be plugged into the Sega Naomi Jamma I/O board. So, you want this button wired too or is it useless to you?
 
360heelflip

360heelflip

Kula's Candy
Joined
Sep 24, 2005
Posts
292
MKL said:
The ground wiring for your AWSD panel is like this:

A single black GND wire comes off P1 connector J and goes to a closed end splice. Six more wires come off said splice and go to the four action butons, start button and 5-pin stick connector L. Same thing is repeated for P2.

If you don't want to do the tap splice thing (or any other kind of modding job), then you need to replace the abovementioned ground wiring with one (made by me) that has one or two more wires (for grounding button 5 and 6) coming off the closed end splice. What you would need to do is extract the ground wires from connector J and L, disconnect the QD's from the buttons, cut the zip ties that hold the wiring together and replace everything with the new wiring.

Do you actually want to do it this way instead of just tapping ground from an existing wire and crimp a QD?

As for button 6 (not used by MVS or Atomiswave games), in an AWSD cab it is connected from the cab side of CP connectors J and K to connector C3 (the 14-pin one that you hold in one of your pics) which is meant to be plugged into the Sega Naomi Jamma I/O board. So, you want this button wired too or is it useless to you?
Click to expand...


I still need a hand with this :D
 
MKL

MKL

Basara's Blade Keeper
20 Year Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Posts
3,686
I can make you a wire that goes from connector J to one of the unused buttons on the CP but you'll have to ground said button yourself. it can be done by either soldering (a single solder) or crimping two wires to one quick disconnect. I can show you how.
 
kernow

kernow

Superior Being
25 Year Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2001
Posts
38,857
MKL really helped me when I was wiring up a 4 slot directly to an AWSD, his harness was excellent and negated the need for any MVS->JAMMA adaptor.

I might commission another one, but what would you do for something like a 2L8B panel that only obviously has four buttons per side? :spock: My E2's control panel harness is definitely wired for 5 buttons just the same as my AW's one.

I don't want to drill another hole for select really, although it'd be wise to put a select button somewhere, hmm.

I imagine the harness would be pretty much identical to the last one you made unless the E2's stereo connector is a different pinout or wired differently.

MKL does excellent work. ;)
 
MKL

MKL

Basara's Blade Keeper
20 Year Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Posts
3,686
kernow said:
what would you do for something like a 2L8B panel that only obviously has four buttons per side? :spock: My E2's control panel harness is definitely wired for 5 buttons just the same as my AW's one.

I don't want to drill another hole for select really, although it'd be wise to put a select button somewhere, hmm.
Click to expand...

You can have select through a combination of existing inputs, like UP and start. You need a OR gate for this (e.g. 74HC32).
 
kernow

kernow

Superior Being
25 Year Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2001
Posts
38,857
Hmm, would you be able to build all of this into the harness though so its just plug and play?

How about a little box or pcb, with quick disconnects on each side that you could just plug onto the end of the control panel harness and then into the button or stick. hmm. I guess it'd need power though.

I'll definitely get you to make another of those harnesses I'm just trying to work out the best approach for a select button basically.
 
MKL

MKL

Basara's Blade Keeper
20 Year Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Posts
3,686
It's possible to make a little box that plugs in between the CP connectors. It would be completely plug&play as the CP connectors have everything, including power. Fact is I can't make one at the moment because I don't have enough contacts for the CP connectors.
Right now all I could make is a little box with 5 wires coming out: two would go to the CP connectors but the other three would go to the CP and you'd need to cut three of the CP wires.
 
MKL

MKL

Basara's Blade Keeper
20 Year Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Posts
3,686
It can be done that way too but it's an inferior method in my view. Why add an unnecessary interconnection on all the other lines (bad particularly for power, video and audio) when all you need is working on the controls. Also, putting an IC on a Jamma adapter doesn't sound like a solid job. Definitely not my style.
 
cools

cools

New Challenger
Joined
May 1, 2009
Posts
54
If it can be done that way without having to arse about inside the CP when changing between MVS/JAMMA then cool :)
 
360heelflip

360heelflip

Kula's Candy
Joined
Sep 24, 2005
Posts
292
MKL said:
I can make you a wire that goes from connector J to one of the unused buttons on the CP but you'll have to ground said button yourself. it can be done by either soldering (a single solder) or crimping two wires to one quick disconnect. I can show you how.
Click to expand...


Thanks mate, that would be great! How much do I owe for the wire and shipping to Australia? If you could show me how to do that, that would be awesome!
 
MKL

MKL

Basara's Blade Keeper
20 Year Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Posts
3,686
Actually you don't have to solder or crimp a ground wire. All you have to do is cut one of the ground wires that go to the top row buttons at about 15cm from the button. Strip the loose ends and twist them together with the ground wire for select (which I'll provide) and put the three twisted wires in a screw terminal (which I'll also provide) and that's it.
If that's OK to you I can send you the select wire, ground wire and screw terminal for 10 euros shipped.
 
360heelflip

360heelflip

Kula's Candy
Joined
Sep 24, 2005
Posts
292
MKL said:
Actually you don't have to solder or crimp a ground wire. All you have to do is cut one of the ground wires that go to the top row buttons at about 15cm from the button. Strip the loose ends and twist them together with the ground wire for select (which I'll provide) and put the three twisted wires in a screw terminal (which I'll also provide) and that's it.
If that's OK to you I can send you the select wire, ground wire and screw terminal for 10 euros shipped.
Click to expand...

Brilliant! Thanks HEAPS! Can you PM me your details?
 
MKL

MKL

Basara's Blade Keeper
20 Year Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Posts
3,686
Here's a pic that shows what you need to do when you receive my stuff:



- Disconnect the P1 connectors marked J.
- Insert the brown wire terminated with the crimp pin into the only empty receptacle on the middle row of connector J (the one on the CP side)
- Connect back together the J connectors.
- Connect the quick-disconnect at the other end of the brown wire to the button that is going to be the select button.
- Connect the quick-disconnect on the black wire to the other tab of the select button.
- Cut one of the black wires that go to the ABCD buttons, strip the loose ends and twist them together with the other end of the black wire from the select button.
- Insert the three black wires twisted together into the screw terminal (and screw it).
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top