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channelmaniac
10-11-2009, 05:58 PM
Time for a reminder that everyone should check their NiCd batteries for leakage!

The solder joint should look nice and shiny and the end of the battery should look clean, like this:

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p98/channelmaniac/Battery1pos.jpg

HOWEVER...

BOTH ends of the battery must be checked. If the Negative side looks like this:

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p98/channelmaniac/Battery1neg.jpg

Then the battery MUST be replaced. Notice the fuzzy growth on the end of the battery? Is it dust? NO! The battery is leaking.

How can you tell it's not dust?

Easy. Look at the solder joint on the board. See all that crystalline fuzzy growth on it? THAT is from the leaking battery and is not dust. Compare that picture to the first one. Those are 2 pics from the same battery. BOTH solder joints should be clean and shiny.

This battery must be replaced. (and in this case was... this was a board fixed for a forum member)

If your board looks like this, then it may be too late to save:

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p98/channelmaniac/Neo6SlotBattDamage.jpg?t=1255298447

If you have pictures of leaking batteries on your game board, post them up for everyone to see. Sometimes the only clue of a leaking battery is a discoloration on traces near it, such as when a battery just starts to leak on a 4 slot board.

RJ

brentsg
10-11-2009, 06:50 PM
Great post Kernow's dead DDP DOJ board saved my 4 slot MVS.

I hadn't thought of it in forever but got me to take it apart and look. I thought it was fine at first but once I got the battery out I could see some residue. I neutralized it with baking soda and cleaned it all up.

I left it out though because that is the extend of my skills. What would you charge me to do a proper battery mod on the board? I'd like one that doesn't hang out... and doesn't need to be charged or anything.

Thanks!

Xian Xi
10-11-2009, 07:13 PM
This is the one that was on a CMVS I bought, no wonder it was cheap. It still has RAM problems so I need to swap the RAM, too.

http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/images/mvsbat.jpg

SniperElite
10-11-2009, 10:20 PM
Good Looking out! This may be a good thread to sticky! :buttrock:

Blur2040
10-12-2009, 08:53 AM
Aww, rats.

You were just a few hours late on this thread. About two weeks ago, I purchased a pinball machine. I'm busy so it took until yesterday to get to the battery.

The battery looked OK from the front and still saved information. Flipped the board over...and fuzzy corrosion on the solder points for the battery. No other corrosion anywhere else as far as I could see. Close one.

Biohazard53
10-12-2009, 09:45 AM
probably a stupid question but where can I get these batteries?

channelmaniac
10-12-2009, 11:49 AM
Mouser
Newark
Jameco
Batteries Plus

And a number of other places.

RJ

pixeljunkie
10-13-2009, 04:31 PM
i need to order some varta batteries....this thread is like a defensive driving video with gruesome deaths....but MORE horrifying.

MadSlacka
11-05-2009, 10:39 PM
Hmm, Think I'll check right now. Thanks for the tip!

Xian Xi
11-06-2009, 11:29 AM
I hink this should be stickied.

brentsg
11-06-2009, 11:54 AM
I think some other beneficial information would be around care and feeding of these batteries. I can't say I really know enough about them.

-I know they are rechargeable so they rely on being powered up from time to time. How much is enough?

-If they sit in storage for months at a time do the batteries die faster than if they are used more frequently?

-Aside from seeing signs of failure, is there some testing we can do to make sure they are good? I recently got a board with a varta 3.6 and I have no idea how old it is. If I measure, it's putting out 3.6V. Am I good?

There's probably some other stuff, but I'm thinking there has to be some recommended care and feeding, and some troubleshooting other than "hey look it started leaking all over".

channelmaniac
11-07-2009, 12:32 AM
The boards should be powered up for a day each month if you want to keep the batteries charged. They can keep the charge longer... it just depends on the current draw and the internal resistance (which slowly drains the battery even when not connected to anything) of the NiCd cell.

Once the solder joint starts looking fuzzy you are already on the path to doom. The solder joint will look fuzzy before the end of the battery does.

RJ

Syn
11-09-2009, 09:19 AM
+1 on the STICKY for this extremely useful information.

Thank you for the heads up:buttrock:

RJ & Xian's photo's are perfect examples of neglect/forgetfulness

NGT
11-09-2009, 09:39 AM
just adding my pictures...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/cossackred/IMG_1538.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/cossackred/corroded.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/cossackred/1108091217.jpg

grandmascrack
11-09-2009, 10:23 AM
+1 for sticky as well. I'm checking more board tonight when i get home from work. As someone who hasn't soldered a thing in his life, is installing a new battery a difficult task? I know soldering pros and can take it them, but I'd rather try and get my feet wet and some point.

Xian Xi
12-09-2009, 11:06 AM
Monthly reminder.

ttooddddyy
01-05-2010, 07:43 AM
If they are allowed to leak, the board may end up like my 1FS.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v176/ttooddddyy/NEO-C1custom.jpg

KaPH33n
02-04-2010, 03:18 AM
Does it matter what brand of battery you use or is it all about the mAh? I recently replaced a few cps-2 boards with XenoEnergy XL-050FAX, all of which had maxells (original?)

Hewitson
02-04-2010, 03:47 AM
Of course the brand doesnt matter. The voltage is what you need to look at.

mAh == milliamp-hours.. The higher this number is, the longer the battery will last without needing a recharge. However, I don't recommend you install a rechargable.

Use a lithium in series with a diode to stop the current from the board reaching the battery. It'll last for years and you won't need to worry about firing up your board every so often to charge it.

IronGiant
02-05-2010, 09:11 AM
Mouser
Newark
Jameco
Batteries Plus

And a number of other places.

RJ

How about in the UK? Can't seem to see anything suitable on the Farnell or RS sites where I usually buy my components from.

Edit: Scrub that, Maplin.co.uk have the Varta 3/V80H - product code: BN22Y

KaPH33n
02-06-2010, 07:46 PM
So I went to change the batteries out on my Darkstalkers and Vampire Savior cps2 boards and Darkstalkers now boots to a green screen :blow_top:

I didn't time myself, but I'm reasonably sure there's no way it took me over an hour. Visual inspection of the board doesn't give me anything... Is there anything else for me to check? I know other B boards work on that A board. I don't think the problem is the battery, the test points read 3.66 on the voltmeter.

Xian Xi
02-06-2010, 07:52 PM
So I went to change the batteries out on my Darkstalkers and Vampire Savior cps2 boards and Darkstalkers now boots to a green screen :blow_top:

I didn't time myself, but I'm reasonably sure there's no way it took me over an hour. Visual inspection of the board doesn't give me anything... Is there anything else for me to check? I know other B boards work on that A board. I don't think the problem is the battery, the test points read 3.66 on the voltmeter.

You could have shorted a connection to drain the residual charge in the chips. Was the old battery still pushing good voltage?

KaPH33n
02-06-2010, 08:53 PM
You could have shorted a connection to drain the residual charge in the chips. Was the old battery still pushing good voltage?

Yes, it still had a charge over 3.6, but it looked like an original maxell so I figured I might as well change it out. If I did drain the charge in the chips does that mean the board is bricked?

Xian Xi
02-06-2010, 09:19 PM
It could but CPS2 B boards sometimes get weird boot colors when the connection to the A board isn't good. Try reseating the board again.

slugger_dan
02-11-2010, 09:20 AM
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/3110/batid.th.jpg (http://img32.imageshack.us/i/batid.jpg/)

The negative terminal of a 1F board I recently recieved. I cleaned as much of the stuff I could from the PCB and put a cell phone battery in place and the board seems to work OK (for now?).

doctor_shred
02-17-2010, 01:48 PM
Does anyone know if a MV-1A will work fine if I remove the lithium cell battery?

I think it's starting to go bad so I'll remove it but I'd like to still use the board while I find a replacement. Thanks.

eccs19
03-08-2010, 11:38 AM
My battery appears to be still all nice and leak free. I got worried after reading this thread, so I cracked it open.

http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk435/eccs19/IMGP4522.jpg

Xian Xi
03-08-2010, 11:47 AM
Your battery may look nice on top but underneath could be leaking.

xiao_haozi
03-08-2010, 12:06 PM
What's the deal with 1A boards.... what kind of setup can we replace with (can it be the same as for the 2 slot - that's what I thought it was)?

themisterfalcon
03-08-2010, 01:26 PM
Change your CPS2 batteries, kids.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/44/149931725_eb2292b370.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/50/149931657_9f6c0d6331.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/51/149931807_febbe8b3f1.jpg

IronGiant
03-08-2010, 02:28 PM
Oh my! :eek:

eccs19
03-08-2010, 04:33 PM
I think that one can be fixed with a bit of TLC. :crying:

eccs19
03-08-2010, 04:34 PM
Your battery may look nice on top but underneath could be leaking.

I looked at the underside, and it's all nice and clean as well. Considering all the horror stories I've heard on here, I'm actually quite surprised. :buttrock:

KaPH33n
03-08-2010, 07:35 PM
wow, those pictures are like what you show your kids so that they'll be scared straight. I won't ever go more than 4 years between batteries now...

themisterfalcon
03-08-2010, 08:49 PM
wow, those pictures are like what you show your kids so that they'll be scared straight. I won't ever go more than 4 years between batteries now...

Yeah. That board was an eBay gamble. Bought non working with intent to have it revived. Never thought I would find that inside. Had to junk it.

xiao_haozi
03-09-2010, 12:45 AM
Well thought I would throw up a photo or two.

These two were from an ebay board. (I already removed the battery by this point)

http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/3_sm.jpg (http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/3.jpg) http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/4_sm.jpg (http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/4.jpg)

Different board... but new battery installed.

http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/1_sm.jpg (http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/1.jpg) http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/2_sm.jpg (http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/2.jpg)

IronGiant
03-09-2010, 04:32 AM
Yeah. That board was an eBay gamble. Bought non working with intent to have it revived. Never thought I would find that inside. Had to junk it.

A pity you junked it, would have been useful as a parts board. :)

channelmaniac
03-16-2010, 07:28 PM
A pity you junked it, would have been useful as a parts board. :)

+1. I can always use parts boards - especially 2 slot boards for the NEO-257 chips.

channelmaniac
03-16-2010, 07:30 PM
When the battery leaks on the MV4FT2 version of the Neo Geo 4 slot, there are 3 traces that run next to the battery area that control the graphics on the slots that can be affected by the corrosion damage. If this happens, the graphics will come and go, especially when touching pin 56 of the NEO-253 chip at D5 on the top board with a logic probe or oscilloscope probe.

The trace from this pin routes to the bottom board and is one of the three traces that run next to the battery area on the top side of the bottom board. These three traces will most likely be damaged and require jumpering with 30ga Kynar wire.

RJ

ptrix4u2c
03-18-2010, 06:31 PM
I'm about to install a mount for a 20mm button battery on my NEO-MVH board. The previous battery was removed and looks pretty much like this picture posted earlier:

http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/4_sm.jpg

The battery mount looks like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/takk28/IMG_4340.jpg

What's the best way to do this? The holes for the original battery are a bit farther apart than the mount I bought. I don't want to mess with it until I know the best way to do it. Thanks!

xiao_haozi
03-18-2010, 06:38 PM
I'm about to install a mount for a 20mm button battery on my NEO-MVH board. The previous battery was removed and looks pretty much like this picture posted earlier:

http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/4_sm.jpg

The battery mount looks like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/takk28/IMG_4340.jpg

What's the best way to do this? The holes for the original battery are a bit farther apart than the mount I bought. I don't want to mess with it until I know the best way to do it. Thanks!

Because you bought the vertical mount one (similar to what you can use on a 1C) ... the best thing is to use the one that lays horizontal and has two posts that will fit exactly into the old holes.
something like this: http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/1_sm.jpg (http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/1.jpg)

xiao_haozi
03-18-2010, 06:39 PM
When the battery leaks on the MV4FT2 version of the Neo Geo 4 slot, there are 3 traces that run next to the battery area that control the graphics on the slots that can be affected by the corrosion damage. If this happens, the graphics will come and go, especially when touching pin 56 of the NEO-253 chip at D5 on the top board with a logic probe or oscilloscope probe.

The trace from this pin routes to the bottom board and is one of the three traces that run next to the battery area on the top side of the bottom board. These three traces will most likely be damaged and require jumpering with 30ga Kynar wire.

RJ

Any tips on an MV2F?

channelmaniac
03-18-2010, 11:43 PM
Patience and a good eye to follow the traces that need patching. ;)

lachlan
04-09-2010, 12:27 PM
This thread makes me nervous about my MV2F that hasn't been touched in 6 months. Though it was recapped by you ChannelManiac and that was quite a while ago and I don't remember if I requested the battery to be replaced. Hmm spose I was to remove the battery, if I care not about BIOS settings or whatever else, it would work as per usual wouldn't it?

xiao_haozi
04-09-2010, 12:29 PM
This thread makes me nervous about my MV2F that hasn't been touched in 6 months. Though it was recapped by you ChannelManiac and that was quite a while ago and I don't remember if I requested the battery to be replaced. Hmm spose I was to remove the battery, if I care not about BIOS settings or whatever else, it would work as per usual wouldn't it?

Yeah but just throw in a new battery while you're at it. A few bucks at mouser and you can put in a holder and coin-cell and be rolling again.

Xian Xi
04-09-2010, 01:01 PM
I'm about to install a mount for a 20mm button battery on my NEO-MVH board. The previous battery was removed and looks pretty much like this picture posted earlier:

http://mutaku.com/neo/battery/4_sm.jpg

The battery mount looks like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/takk28/IMG_4340.jpg

What's the best way to do this? The holes for the original battery are a bit farther apart than the mount I bought. I don't want to mess with it until I know the best way to do it. Thanks!

All MVS boards use the horizontal battery mount except for the MV1C which uses a vertical. You can use a horizontal on the 1C but the way I do it uses the mounting holes for the heatsink, this of course is for a CMVS unit not used in a cab.

For vertical instructions this is what I do:
http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/tutorials.html?show=mvsbat1c

the colector
04-15-2010, 12:02 PM
i am afraid that my neo geo batery blow and damage the board. i want to now if i can take of the batery and leave the neo geo whith no batery

xiao_haozi
04-15-2010, 12:17 PM
i am afraid that my neo geo batery blow and damage the board. i want to now if i can take of the batery and leave the neo geo whith no batery

Sure but it won't fix a damaged board.

Plus, why not throw a battery back on there. [see every post above yours]

the colector
04-16-2010, 12:39 PM
i have another problem i have real bout 1 and metal slug 1 mvs cartrige and the sound are distorsion the grafix are well but the sound are distorsion cartriges are clean how i can fix this problem. please help me

xiao_haozi
04-16-2010, 12:46 PM
i have another problem i have real bout 1 and metal slug 1 mvs cartrige and the sound are distorsion the grafix are well but the sound are distorsion cartriges are clean how i can fix this problem. please help me

Wrong thread man. Use the search in the Tech sub-forum and you should find what you need.

TempestPSO
05-11-2010, 05:55 PM
So I just bought a MVS 2 slot and am not very technologically skilled, Is there a way I can just take that battery off the board and run the neo geo without the battery. if so how do i do that and what are the pros and cons. Just looks like it can really F up the works if you don't keep on it.

Xian Xi
05-11-2010, 06:18 PM
Just desolder the 2 points under the foam pad and remove the battery.

Only con is that you will not bea able to keep settings once the power is off such as soft dip settings and game scores.

SetaSouji??
05-11-2010, 06:25 PM
Has anyone come up with a socket solution for batteries yet? I'm about fed up with my 2 slot blanking my goddamn scores :mad:

Xian Xi
05-11-2010, 06:27 PM
Has anyone come up with a socket solution for batteries yet? I'm about fed up with my 2 slot blanking my goddamn scores :mad:

Just remove the 470ohm resistor in the charging circuit and remove the battery and replace it with a coin cell battery holder and use a 3v lithium coin cell.

BeefyWhale
05-11-2010, 08:50 PM
Thanks to everyone for keeping this fresh in your mind. I had no idea since this is my first Geo.

TempestPSO
05-11-2010, 11:14 PM
Quick question, I just checked my board and the battery does seem to be leaking ever so slightly on the negative side. The battery how ever is still holding a charge, since the battery is still holding a charge is there anything special I should do, I noticed another person in this thread removed a battery with a charge and appeared to have shorted the board. I have a mvs 2 slot if that makes a difference. I was planning on just heating up the flux and ganking the battery entirely for a while.

TempestPSO
05-12-2010, 04:45 PM
Got my leaking battery removed, Haven't got the guts to solder on a new one yet but I'm sure resetting options and not having high scores saved will get old quickly. Thanks for the help, if not for this site I would have never known to look and some time down the road I would be in deep. Thanks

massimiliano
05-12-2010, 05:07 PM
Just remove the 470ohm resistor in the charging circuit and remove the battery and replace it with a coin cell battery holder and use a 3v lithium coin cell.

I would advice that too, I changed all my 2/4/6 slot that way and it's a clean and solid mod.
The boards were clearly engineered with more than one option for the battery, you can find multiple pins for at least two combination of attach.

http://www.netpacket.it/neo/coinslot.jpg

I would put my hands on an howto to make the same mod on FZ/1B model, as the recharge circuit seems different/difficult to bypass..

TempestPSO
05-12-2010, 10:05 PM
K removed my battery but did not put a replacement battery in, now upon boot up I get a flash or 2 of green screen before the neo geo start up screen comes one. Is this normal for not having a battery attached.

MKL
05-12-2010, 11:21 PM
The boards were clearly engineered with more than one option for the battery, you can find multiple pins for at least two combination of attach.

http://www.netpacket.it/neo/coinslot.jpg


And you can also solder the battery holder on the other side of the board so you don't have to take everything apart to check/replace it.

massimiliano
05-13-2010, 04:06 AM
And you can also solder the battery holder on the other side of the board so you don't have to take everything apart to check/replace it.

....!!

RGB32e
05-13-2010, 07:37 PM
Just remove the 470ohm resistor in the charging circuit and remove the battery and replace it with a coin cell battery holder and use a 3v lithium coin cell.

Oooh... that's the exact battery info I needed! Thanks!

muddymusic
05-17-2010, 08:13 AM
Hi guys,
just joined up after reading through most of the forum and wanted to thank everyone for the extremely useful stuff on here.
I was looking for a cheap cab for a mame project and the cheapest/nearest one I could find was a dedicated neo cab - which thanks to the info here i've decided to restore instead of butcher :)
Was sold as faulty and when opened up looks like another victim of battery corrosion....
Very pleased to know i've got somewhere to find help when I get started though!

muddymusic
05-18-2010, 04:45 AM
I guess this explains why my 6-slot doesn't work...
I'm no pcb expert but this doesn't look good!

Is this worth repairing or should I be looking to get another board?

http://www.dreamjam.co.uk/pics/battery1.jpg
http://www.dreamjam.co.uk/pics/battery2.jpg

Xian Xi
05-18-2010, 04:53 AM
Umm ya, you need to fix a bunch of stuff there.

muddymusic
05-19-2010, 04:43 AM
Would be great if it could be fixed up!
Can you recommend anyone who does these kind of repair jobs as i'm sure you're the guys who will know.

IronGiant
05-19-2010, 05:07 AM
Would be great if it could be fixed up!
Can you recommend anyone who does these kind of repair jobs as i'm sure you're the guys who will know.

Well, your best bet is Channelmaniac but he's in the States - he REALLY knows his Neo Geo stuff though! :)

If you want someone in the UK then I'm happy to take a look at it - Neo Geo boards aren't my speciality area but I've fixed a few in my time. The damage on your board is hard to ascertain from the pics, it might be worse than it looks (or perhaps not even as bad).

Even if that is repaired it's possible that there are other faults preventing the board from working.

Either way, your repair charges aren't going to be cheap whether you send it to the States or to me in the UK - at a guess I'd say look to spend at least £50 (including postage/shipping) so you may prefer to keep your eyes open for a working board. Not sure how much they go for these days.

Feel free to PM me if you want to send it to me, but I think that Channelmaniac really is the absolute best when it comes to fixing Neo Geo boards. Not sure how much he would charge though.

Here he is:

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/member.php?u=12525

muddymusic
05-19-2010, 05:17 AM
Thanks for the info, when I bought the cab I wasn't planning on spending too much on it but when I opened it up the 6 slot was full with games which weren't listed in the description so figure i've saved myself a bit for repair costs as don't have to spend out on carts when it's working.

IronGiant
05-19-2010, 05:33 AM
Fair enough - just as long as the carts work and aren't bootlegs. ;)

Uo to you how you'd like to proceed - PM channelmaniac perhaps and me if you'd like to check on repair prices, shipping, whatever. :)

There may even be other Neo Geo repairers here that are in the UK, but none spring to mind.

muddymusic
05-19-2010, 06:03 AM
Can't pm yet as guessing i'm still a potentially annoying newbie, will do once have permissions! :)

IronGiant
05-19-2010, 06:07 AM
Okay. :)

El Capitan
05-19-2010, 06:14 AM
Six slots are notorious for not working.

I would suggest that your best bet is to get a 2 slot, if you want a multi slot, or get a one slot - they never go wrong (n.b. they do sometimes go wrong)

In the UK, I'm not aware of any repairers. Not any proper ones anyway.

Channelmaniac I think has a real in depth knowledge. Take a look over here: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=19.0 for some of his work.

Good luck!

channelmaniac
05-19-2010, 11:54 PM
I have a working 6 slot bottom board if you're interested.

RJ

muddymusic
05-20-2010, 02:50 AM
Certainly would be interested in that, can't pm you as too new, could you mail me? Thanks.

channelmaniac
05-22-2010, 12:36 PM
Done.

Anselm
06-13-2010, 02:40 AM
Ugh, my first MVS board and the battery is starting to corrode on the + side. Ordered a battery kit and I'll have it out in a week. Here's hoping nothing else is damaged...

I have a 6 slot enroute but I couldn't find any info on replacing that one. Does anyone have a link or info on that board?

~Anselm~

channelmaniac
06-13-2010, 03:16 AM
Use a 3.6v NiCd or NiMH cordless phone battery that is small enough to fit between the boards.

You can't use the same type of NiCd or NiMH barrel batteries on the 6 slot as the pins on the top board will short the battery out.

Pringles
06-13-2010, 12:12 PM
Uggh... sorry for insanely noobish question but... Where is this battery? On the main board?

Anselm
06-27-2010, 04:07 PM
Does amperage matter? I bought a cell phone battery, 3.6v 350 mAh. It was the lowest amperage available. The salesman assured me extra amperage does not matter as long as the voltage is correct. He said the higher amperage just means it will take longer to charge and discharge. Any guru's here that can second his opinion? I would hate to put this on my 6 slot, only to cause more grief.

~Anselm~

Xian Xi
06-27-2010, 04:25 PM
It's the capacity of the battery, the lower the number the shorter it holds the charge. The stock battery is only 50mAh so with your new battery it will hold it longer. That is, if you charge the battery, you have to play or leave the mobo on for so many hours to charge the battery.

Anselm
06-27-2010, 06:22 PM
It's the capacity of the battery, the lower the number the shorter it holds the charge. The stock battery is only 50mAh so with your new battery it will hold it longer. That is, if you charge the battery, you have to play or leave the mobo on for so many hours to charge the battery.

Ok, thank you for the quick response. I'll be disassembling it through the week for cleaning and battery installation. Hopefully it works when I put it back together. :eek:

~Anselm~

Anselm
07-01-2010, 08:42 PM
Ok, give it to me straight. Am I screwed? Two questions:

1. Now that I have the battery out can I assume the corrosion will stop?
2. This is a 6 slot board. Does anyone know what kind of errors I can expect if the corrosion has eaten through the circuit runs that go under the battery? (There are a series of three runs that go under the battery.

I am not too worried about the giant circle of corrosion. It's just a grounding plain and it hasn't eaten all the way through. Any advice or condolences would be appreciated.

~Anselm~


http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9006/img4317t.jpg (http://img130.imageshack.us/i/img4317t.jpg/)

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/4986/img4315g.jpg (http://img257.imageshack.us/i/img4315g.jpg/)

Xian Xi
07-01-2010, 09:09 PM
THose 3 traces are easy to patch. Get a multimeter and do a continuity test to see if they are still making connection. And make sure you clean off the HD74LS.

Anselm
07-01-2010, 10:28 PM
THose 3 traces are easy to patch. Get a multimeter and do a continuity test to see if they are still making connection. And make sure you clean off the HD74LS.

Already tested the runs. Had to twist a bit to get a good contact through the laminate but they all have continuity. I checked each direction (across the jump under the battery and then from each side to the next component).

I plan on re-flowing the solder on all surrounding components to clear off the corrosion. I'll make sure I hit that IC chip as well.

~Anselm~

Anselm
07-02-2010, 02:21 AM
Well, I swapped the battery and reassembled. Now all I can get to come up is the test pattern and associated test screens...


~Anselm~

Anselm
07-02-2010, 03:07 AM
Well, I swapped the battery and reassembled. Now all I can get to come up is the test pattern and associated test screens...


~Anselm~

Well....I'm an idiot. All 6 carts were in backwards. :blow_top:

Now I have to figure out why my 6 slot is only servicing one coin slot when the two slot worked for both, and why I don't have stereo sound. I'll start a new thread for that.


~Anselm~

Krusher
07-03-2010, 03:46 PM
I had some ODD issues. I noticed the main 330 splash screen looked 1/2 pro half pixel level home drawn!.
Today tried to fire it up and the way it acts changes, goes from green screen, (See pic) then delays about 10 seconds and goes black!
I inspected board very carefully. And I have a feeling im out of luck or will need to send out for repair, been AGES since I trace jumped. Pics below
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=2074
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=2073

Krusher
07-03-2010, 06:39 PM
interesting. Ok, I posted message above (Pending review right now)
And now Have removed the battery and cleaned the acid off.
there is continuity between the points I thought were eaten clean.
still acts funny. Will start a new thread in general tech area.

As of now it does appear removing the battery allowed it to post a little further.
and boots to a game albiet mighty scrambled. but I hear sound effects etc.

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=2075
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=2076
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=2077

Nuclear Neo
07-15-2010, 09:28 AM
I got a 6 slot neo geo i bought a few months ago, i havnt taken the motherboard out/nor looked at the battery or anything at all.... i would hate for it to leak acid all over the traces! I reckon it's time to take it out and change it... its quite dirty as well so give it a good clean, any tips when taking out a 6 slot motherboard? They are pretty big..

Can you just solder out the battery and leave it out? I dont care about not saving hiscores or any info/data... i just play it from time to time, so can you just take the battery out and turn it on and play it like normal, without the saving of hiscores? Any disadvantages apart from that when it comes to no battery in the MVS?

Cheers!

P.S i bought 7 faulty 1 slot motherboards from a guy, didnt pay much for them, good for parts i say, but the batteries have spewed acid near where the battery is located... it's a pitty, they had been stored in a shed for 4 ish years with batteries... all the traces are pretty eaten up, would be great to get atleast one of them working... I will upload some pictures of them tomorrow for you all to have a look at! Some give garbled graphics, some dont do anything at all.. those batteries are horrible things :(

shadows
07-15-2010, 09:30 AM
Can you just solder out the battery and leave it out? I dont care about not saving hiscores or any info/data... i just play it from time to time, so can you just take the battery out and turn it on and play it like normal, without the saving of hiscores? Any disadvantages apart from that when it comes to no battery in the MVS?


It will work fine without a battery in.

channelmaniac
07-15-2010, 10:08 AM
I had some ODD issues. I noticed the main 330 splash screen looked 1/2 pro half pixel level home drawn!.
Today tried to fire it up and the way it acts changes, goes from green screen, (See pic) then delays about 10 seconds and goes black!
I inspected board very carefully. And I have a feeling im out of luck or will need to send out for repair, been AGES since I trace jumped. Pics below
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=2074
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=2073

Those pics are of an MV1... When the battery leaks there it typically won't give the issues you describe. You have a dirty slot or a gouged trace on the bottom of the board.

Nuclear Neo
07-15-2010, 10:17 AM
It will work fine without a battery in.

Thanks, that is good to hear! :)

Xian Xi
07-15-2010, 04:12 PM
I had some ODD issues. I noticed the main 330 splash screen looked 1/2 pro half pixel level home drawn!.
Today tried to fire it up and the way it acts changes, goes from green screen, (See pic) then delays about 10 seconds and goes black!
I inspected board very carefully. And I have a feeling im out of luck or will need to send out for repair, been AGES since I trace jumped. Pics below
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=2074
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=257&pictureid=2073

Can you try a higher meg game, like 250 or higher and post a pic?

Nuclear Neo
07-19-2010, 06:06 AM
Well i got rid of the battery in the bottom PCB of my 6 slot, haha i am so happy because it was starting to crystalise, leave it for a few weeks/months and it would probably start pouring out acid on the traces :O

I will pop a battery in it some other time maybe, but for now i am happy with playing it without the battery!

Is it possible to solder some wires on the neo geo board where the battery was originally sitting? and then get those wires soldered to a battery, that is AWAY from the PCB? i mean whats the difference, that way if it leaks in a couple of years it will leak on the arcade cabinet wood and not the motherboard. Is that possible?

Cheers - i will upload some photos some time of the battery taken out etc

Anselm
07-19-2010, 06:38 AM
Is it possible to solder some wires on the neo geo board where the battery was originally sitting? and then get those wires soldered to a battery, that is AWAY from the PCB? i mean whats the difference, that way if it leaks in a couple of years it will leak on the arcade cabinet wood and not the motherboard. Is that possible?



That's exactly what I did. While your at it install a connector so if you ever replace it again, you can just unplug and replace.

~Anselm~

Nuclear Neo
07-20-2010, 05:59 AM
That's exactly what I did. While your at it install a connector so if you ever replace it again, you can just unplug and replace.

~Anselm~

Cheers! Thanks for that, sounds like a good idea :)

Been playing it, and i had cleaned the board heaps it was really dirty from the last owner.... and to my amazement - the memory card slot now works! When i bought it the Memory card slot didnt work, it now does! So thats a + for the battery gone, and the memory card slot!

channelmaniac
08-06-2010, 11:17 PM
OK,

This is something you DO NOT want to do!

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p98/channelmaniac/IMG_5803.jpg

This board was sent in for repairs... I won't ID the forum member that sent it to me even though he wasn't the one that installed it. This is a NON rechargeable lithium battery.

THIS is what is wrong with using that type of battery:

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p98/channelmaniac/IMG_5804.jpg

See that 470 ohm resistor? It CHARGES the battery and should've been removed before the lithium battery was soldered in. It's amazing that battery didn't pop and leak its VERY corrosive fluids.

Xian Xi
08-07-2010, 01:15 AM
That's jacked up man. People need to learn stuff about the charging system and knowing what battery types to use and when they CAN use them.

Good thing no one got hurt.

NeoTheranthrope
08-07-2010, 01:57 AM
Bump, due to rampant modfaggotry.

Egg Shen
08-11-2010, 12:55 PM
Hi guys, I'm new here and after searching through posts for a few days with no success, I wondered if I could find some guidance. I recently purchased a MVS 2 slot conversion cab and noticed that some of the games seemed "buggy" the seller stated that he hadn't touched the games in four years and that they were most likely dirty. I did get most of the games to work, now once I got it home I cleaned the crap out of all of the games and the connectors on the board and still had issues. After reading I found this thread and decided to check my battery, sure enough it had leaked it was furry around the connectors. The board however looks ok. The splash screen is scrambled on all carts and the games all seem to have the same scramble problem, my test screens however are ok. Here are some pics, I fear the worst...

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac315/medic138/th_IMG_4029.jpg (http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac315/medic138/?action=view&current=IMG_4029.jpg)

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac315/medic138/th_IMG_4027.jpg (http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac315/medic138/?action=view&current=IMG_4027.jpg)

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac315/medic138/th_IMG_4020.jpg (http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac315/medic138/?action=view&current=IMG_4020.jpg)

sorry about the bad pic of the board, i'll try and get a better one. thanks guys this forum rocks.

FrizzleFried
08-13-2010, 12:30 PM
Question: I visited RadioSuck last night to pick up a 3.6v NiMH 80mah battery to replace the one on my 4-slot MB... of course RadioSuck didn't carry any PCB component type batteries in store... only available online. I sucked it up and bought a cordless phone battery... 3.6v NiMH 300mah I think it is.... I hacked that bad boy on to the MB and it appears to be working fine... is there any negatives to this setup other than it not being "stock"?

Xian Xi
08-13-2010, 01:02 PM
Only thing I can think of is that it is 3 x bigger in capacity than the stock so it will take longer to get it fully charged.

raylyd
09-24-2010, 02:02 PM
So many boards broken i have done many sega systems like this but i always change the batterys even before it leaked.

mrbippers
10-25-2010, 10:53 PM
Wonderful thread. Before and after of the board from my cab. Yanked the coin cell battery off an old Pentium 3 mobo I had lying around and not a moment too soon.

http://www.acsu.buffalo.edu/~kosloski/pics/neobat.jpg

Anselm
10-26-2010, 12:27 AM
Only thing I can think of is that it is 3 x bigger in capacity than the stock so it will take longer to get it fully charged.

But from what I understand, the benefit is a much longer down time without losing the charge.

~Anselm~

Ninjatemper
10-26-2010, 04:29 PM
The battery on my PGM mobo was leaking so I removed it. I'm pretty new to all this stuff so without this thread, I'd have had a dead board in time for sure due to ignorance. Thanks for all the great info guys. Anyways, I see that when you are going to replace a neo mobo's battery you need to remove that 470 resistor. Does anyone have a pic or a link to a tutorial that shows what kind of modifications need to be made to a PGM mobo before putting in the new coin cell battery?

bwi
11-27-2010, 11:03 AM
ok replacing the battery on my 2 1-slots now i think i read through these pages that you have to remove the resistor marked 470 (im using coin holder with non rechareable battery) which is next to the battery on my MV-1FT but on my 1FZ its a 470 capacitor next to the board.

Just making sure before i do something i regret

bri

Xian Xi
11-27-2010, 12:15 PM
Not all the charging circuits are the same. On the FZ you need to remove a few parts from the underside of the board.

bwi
11-27-2010, 03:27 PM
so on the 1FT i'm good with the 470 resistor and is there a diagram for the FZ somewhere?

Bri

andrew96
01-31-2011, 01:01 PM
Wonderful thread. Before and after of the board from my cab. Yanked the coin cell battery off an old Pentium 3 mobo I had lying around and not a moment too soon.

http://www.acsu.buffalo.edu/~kosloski/pics/neobat.jpg

em..... thats a lithium battery not a ni-cad or ni-mh battery, i hope you stopped the board trying to recharge it or it wont last very long and explode!

massimiliano
01-31-2011, 01:06 PM
It seems he removed the 470 Ohm resistor from the recharge circuit.
That way you can use the non-rechargeable battery fine (which is btw the best option if you don't use daily the board).

andrew96
01-31-2011, 01:52 PM
It seems he removed the 470 Ohm resistor from the recharge circuit.
That way you can use the non-rechargeable battery fine (which is btw the best option if you don't use daily the board).

sorry i couldent see the 470 ohm resistor in either picture, but now i can see the space where it was!

lachlan
01-31-2011, 10:57 PM
Remembered I already asked the same thing earlier, in relation to operation without battery. Apologies.

andrew96
02-01-2011, 10:45 AM
hi

looking for a battery here in the UK i found the Maplin one (BN22Y) had 2 pins on one side. now i know thats not a problem apart from it not looking so good on the board!, so i went in search of a 2 pin one, i found one at mds battery and at a resonable price with free delivery in the UK. So in case anyone else is interested here is the link to the battery

http://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/shop/productprofile.asp?ProductGroupID=820

I have no connection with the site and if i have done wrong by posting a website then let me know and i will delete the link, but i thought it good to let others know of a cheap battery source in the UK

cheers
Andrew

andrew96
02-01-2011, 10:47 AM
in addition to the above post, no minimum order too! so you can just order the 1 battery and not have to buy 10!

mekishiko
02-10-2011, 05:46 AM
Scoured the forums/Webs for hours, can not find info on battery replacement for a MVS MV1A board.

I want to replace with a Non-Rechargeable LithiumIon 3v Button cell, but i dont want to burn my house down. Unfortunately this motherboard doesn't seem to have ANY resistors on it.

http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k564/mekishiko916/Arcade%20Games/?action=view&current=MV1A.jpg

distropia
02-11-2011, 01:43 AM
Scoured the forums/Webs for hours, can not find info on battery replacement for a MVS MV1A board.

I want to replace with a Non-Rechargeable LithiumIon 3v Button cell, but i dont want to burn my house down. Unfortunately this motherboard doesn't seem to have ANY resistors on it.

http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k564/mekishiko916/Arcade%20Games/?action=view&current=MV1A.jpg

I tried to find a MV1A in my collection, but no luck. Can you post a sharp picture of the bottom of the board in the battery area? Please, first discharge your own static to any good grounding in your house and remove that foam crap that SNK used to put in the battery area.

mekishiko
02-25-2011, 06:27 AM
I tried to find a MV1A in my collection, but no luck. Can you post a sharp picture of the bottom of the board in the battery area? Please, first discharge your own static to any good grounding in your house and remove that foam crap that SNK used to put in the battery area.

How to Disable the charging circuit on MV1A and MV1B? Here are the higher Res pictures. Thanks!

MV1A
http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k564/mekishiko916/Arcade%20Games/MV1A_Top.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k564/mekishiko916/Arcade%20Games/MV1A_Bottom.jpg

MV1B
http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k564/mekishiko916/Arcade%20Games/MV1B_Top.jpg

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k564/mekishiko916/Arcade%20Games/MV1B_Bottom.jpg

Hewitson
02-25-2011, 07:14 AM
Just put a schottky diode in series with the positive terminal of the battery so that current can leave the battery, but it can't enter it.

Benevicious
02-27-2011, 11:09 PM
I just got my first mvs board, a mv-1f and decided to check the battery. It had early signs of leaking, those dust type things shown in the first pics. So I removed the stock battery and put in a coin battery holder for a cr 2032 3v lithium battery. I have already removed the 470 ohm resistor.

My question is, near the solder point for the positive terminal on the stock battery, there is another solder point close to it, which appears to connect to the recharging circuit, or where the 470 ohm resistor used to be anyway.

Should the positive point on the coin slot battery holder and this other point be connected? I thought they were when I took the stock battery out, but figured I would ask before powering the board up.

Points in question are in red here.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc208/ahkemz/HPIM0720.jpg

Xian Xi
02-28-2011, 02:18 AM
They're both connected, you can solder to either one.

Gabrius
03-10-2011, 11:58 AM
Wonderful thread. Before and after of the board from my cab. Yanked the coin cell battery off an old Pentium 3 mobo I had lying around and not a moment too soon.

http://www.acsu.buffalo.edu/~kosloski/pics/neobat.jpg

^ my battery looks kinda like the left picture.... there are some green bits in the same spot on my 2-slot's battery. Not quite as much, but there's some there.

Here's the thing - I have absolutely no experience soldering, and do not want my 1st attempt to be on my mvs-2.... how long do I have until this is going to be a problem? I cleaned off most of the green stuff with a bit of rubbing alcohol, but I know I didn't get it all...

:help:

distropia
03-11-2011, 02:03 AM
I dont know what guys here have to say, but I've seen "sealed" batteries like that spilling corroding liquid in few weeks. It depends on many factors (eg. ambient temperature and battery materials).

If you have no experience soldering, better search for someone that can do the job. The damage can be terrible, so do it asap.
And never forget to place a diode the way Hewitson told before!

Xian Xi
03-11-2011, 02:13 AM
If you don't know how to solder it and it's getting bad you can always snip the 2 legs to at least remove the battery.

Gabrius
03-11-2011, 11:10 AM
If you don't know how to solder it and it's getting bad you can always snip the 2 legs to at least remove the battery.

I may do that at first.... I really need to acquire this skill though. Thinking about hitting my local Microcenter at lunch to get some starter materials/tools.

Any advice on what I should be buying?

lachlan
03-17-2011, 03:31 PM
Bought a faulty MV-1F of off eBay and the battery was leaking big time, neutralized the area with baking soda and water and let that sit for 30mins. Washed the board thoroughly with distilled water and toothbrush. Cleaned the cart slot with isopropyl and it's a working board! When I saw corrosion on a couple chips I thought it was gone, not so! If I didn't have this thread to use as reference I'd have a board in far worse condition.

mr aize
03-20-2011, 04:00 PM
Got an mv1fz an it's got a lithium 3v battery in it. Am I correct in thinking that I don't need to worry about possible leakage? Read somewhere that they don't leak.

Adderall
03-21-2011, 05:21 PM
Just got out my MV1 to test a few things (I usually use my MV1-C).

Now I see this happening:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/18410963/mv1batt.JPG

should I take off the battery and try to fix it?
EDIT - I should probably mention a few things:

* this was originally repaired and purchased from channelmaniac - I don't know if this was an area he worked on but it doesn't look like the corrosain I see on the other pictures.

* Also, it works just fine.. no problems with the board right now.

Xian Xi
03-21-2011, 06:04 PM
Looks like flux, you can use some Rubbing Alcohol to remove the buildup.

Adderall
03-21-2011, 07:05 PM
cool.. looks like i can sell it then.. my 1C is a champ and I obviously don't use this much. THANKS XX

XxHennersXx
03-27-2011, 04:40 AM
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/199098_10150113554886436_613191435_6968486_3667287 _n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/190450_10150113554811436_613191435_6968484_646216_ n.jpg

I don't see any fuzzy shit...before my power supply went out it saved stuff still.

but i'm no expert, how's it look to you guys?

Xian Xi
03-27-2011, 05:36 AM
It's corroded on the back side, the green stuff isn't good. Remove the battery.

XxHennersXx
03-27-2011, 07:34 AM
do you just pop it out?

the chips and everything look ok though right? Nothing permanent?

shadows
03-27-2011, 09:51 AM
Desolder or cut the leads.
It doesnt look like it has leaked onto the board yet.

mr aize
03-27-2011, 02:47 PM
Just changed my battery in the nick of time. It had leaked a bit but luckily it hadn't spread to any of the components an i've cleaned it up now. Phew! Just for the record, lithiums do leak!

yukin
03-28-2011, 08:49 PM
my battery begin to leak to i chnage the battery. i stay with a rechargable one. i follow the tutorial on http://pineconeattack.com.

the article was made by Jangofatt.

i follow all the instruction. i test and it works. i put the battery outside like that, if he begin to have problem it will not damage the board.

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z476/yukinsaknos/DSC00702.jpg

owen
03-29-2011, 07:33 PM
just finished checking my battery on my 4 slot and it looks perfect , like new . should i leave it in and just check it at a certain interval?

Xian Xi
03-29-2011, 07:52 PM
just finished checking my battery on my 4 slot and it looks perfect , like new . should i leave it in and just check it at a certain interval?

The pancake batteries leak from the side you can't see.

owen
03-29-2011, 08:22 PM
ok , its coming out , in an earlier post i read something about grounding or shorting when trying to remove the battery, is there anything i should know ? i have no electrical knowledge and would hate to ruin a perfect board, from what i gather from this thread, is to just remove it.. but i gotta be sure. :conf:

BIG BEAR
03-29-2011, 08:34 PM
EVERY OEM battery should be removed upon receipt of your MVS board. I usually don't bother replacing it but if you mustI like that isolation from the main board concept. Why not place it on a daughter board with a protective base on the solder side and glue down maybe?
BB

Racsomew
04-07-2011, 02:30 AM
My Neo Geo AES doesn't power on could this be the problem- the battery? Thanks!

Xian Xi
04-07-2011, 05:35 AM
My Neo Geo AES doesn't power on could this be the problem- the battery? Thanks!

There's no internal battery on the AES.

XxHennersXx
04-10-2011, 07:46 AM
can i just cut the wires with a wire cutter?

Xian Xi
04-10-2011, 02:40 PM
can i just cut the wires with a wire cutter?

Yes, you can.

l2yan00
04-16-2011, 07:15 PM
Whats up guys. i recently baught a huge lot of cps2 and mvs carts from a local arcade operator... all was untested. I opened up the marvel vs capcom board and this is what i discovered. Perhaps the most damage ever caused from a cps2 battery not being changed..... hope this convinces you to change your batteries before it becomes unfixbale like this one. the damage was irreversable due to numerous spots of corrosion to the pcb. CHANGE YOUR BATTERIES!!!!!!!!

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/1671/dscn3372n.jpg

Xian Xi
04-16-2011, 08:02 PM
I think the worst one is still mainman's CPS2 where the battery exploded and coated almost everything inside. Your pic is the reason why I don't buy untested boards from arcade ops. They won't let me open them to check so I passed no matter how good the deal.

At one point they even offered to sell them to me for $20 a piece and I still passed and they still couldn't understand how important it is for them to open and check. Plus those boards are sitting in a hot warehouse that has a skylight. When will they learn?

XxHennersXx
04-20-2011, 03:29 AM
dude. it looks like someone used your board to freebase meth and then shit all over it wtf...god makes me glad i got to mine before anything! It's sat here for 3 years without me knowing it was bad.

distropia
04-23-2011, 06:49 PM
That is repairable... with a lot of patience, another board to compare, and kilometers of kynar wire... the worst thing is the corrosion on the Capcom DL-1927 chip legs.
I've done things worst than that. Optimist, right? :mr_t:

By the way, why don't you put that photo on the "disaster thread" I opened?

DrkMajorPenguin
04-25-2011, 08:26 AM
Speaking of powersupplies does anyone know if a Japanese Neo Geo will work with an Australian powersource

HMG
04-25-2011, 12:10 PM
My MV-1AX has a spot welded coin cell battery, mounted horizontally. What are the chances of it leaking? Thing is it is working perfectly right now and I fear this factory-looking battery will leak even if it's lithium-based. Should I buy a battery replacement mod from JNX and replace it anyway?

distropia
04-25-2011, 01:08 PM
My MV-1AX has a spot welded coin cell battery, mounted horizontally. What are the chances of it leaking? Thing is it is working perfectly right now and I fear this factory-looking battery will leak even if it's lithium-based. Should I buy a battery replacement mod from JNX and replace it anyway?

As stated all over this thread, you should ALWAYS replace that factory battery. What do you value more, a factory-looking battery or a fully working board without corrosion and damage?
If you care about the looking, you can locate the battery holder on the lower face of the board.

HMG
04-25-2011, 02:03 PM
Hmm, I see your point. Yes, a $3 battery mod sure beats paying $60+ for a replacement MVS board. I think I will also attach long wires to the battery so it can stay far away from the main board. :)

distropia
04-25-2011, 02:52 PM
Sure. If you're going to do the wire thing (don't forget the diode), be sure to isolate the wires/battery/poles. It could make a disaster if some possitive (+) touch everywhere (-) on the board.

HMG
04-25-2011, 02:59 PM
Diode? What for? Do you mean to remove it? My MV-1AX uses a coin cell, so I'd just do a straight across replacement.

Also, of course I'd use insolated wire and some electrical tape on any bare connections, what kind of fool do you take me for?

distropia
04-25-2011, 03:29 PM
Take it easy. I don't know your electronic skills, just told that for help you in case you were a noob.

neo-mvs-man
04-26-2011, 04:33 AM
Or you could get rid of the problem forever with NO wires by using a supercap!

Check this video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTP9_gS31Tw

If you need them let me know!

Xian Xi
04-26-2011, 04:55 AM
Or you could get rid of the problem forever with NO wires by using a supercap!

Check this video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTP9_gS31Tw

If you need them let me know!

Ya, 5.5v.

neo-mvs-man
04-26-2011, 04:57 AM
Ya, 5.5v.

Is that good?

Xian Xi
04-26-2011, 04:59 AM
Ah, just read it was a cap. If it's a battery rated at 5.5v then ya it would be bad since you can fry stuff when you go above 5.2v.

Not sure how a supercap would work as a backup battery.

neo-mvs-man
04-26-2011, 05:01 AM
Ah, just read it was a cap. If it's a battery rated at 5.5v then ya it would be bad since you can fry stuff when you go above 5.2v.

Not sure how a supercap would work as a backup battery.

I am, they hold your neo geo memory for up to 3 months on a full charge!!

Xian Xi
04-26-2011, 05:07 AM
I am, they hold your neo geo memory for up to 3 months on a full charge!!

Ya, 3 months on a full charge. The MVS charging circuit is almost in a trickle state when on. To fully charge the stock 50mAh battery you need to leave your Neo on for 4-5 hours.

Why not just mod it with a coin cell non-rechargeable? Most CR2032 batteries can hold from 175-235mAh, they die after around 4-5 years.

neo-mvs-man
04-26-2011, 05:12 AM
Ya, 3 months on a full charge. The MVS charging circuit is almost in a trickle state when on. To fully charge the stock 50mAh battery you need to leave your Neo on for 4-5 hours.

Why not just mod it with a coin cell non-rechargeable? Most CR2032 batteries can hold from 175-235mAh, they die after around 4-5 years.

Bacause it's a dry top cap you NEVER have to worry about leakage again (do it right, do it once), if i'm going to solder my board one of these is definately going in, 4-5 hours isn't that long to leave your cab on, mine has been going for longer than that today!

Anyway i was just letting you guys know that this is an option if you want to fully move away from acid based batteries.
:buttrock:

Xian Xi
04-26-2011, 05:14 AM
If you're worried about a new battery leaking just reverse mount it under the board so if it leaks it goes to the baseboard and not the mobo.

neo-mvs-man
04-26-2011, 05:17 AM
Supercaps are what i use.

SnowKitty
04-28-2011, 11:09 AM
Or you could get rid of the problem forever with NO wires by using a supercap!

Check this video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTP9_gS31Tw

If you need them let me know!

you know, this might also be a good fix for the sega dreamcast's backup battery o.o

Mike26
04-29-2011, 11:22 PM
you know, this might also be a good fix for the sega dreamcast's backup battery o.o

that's exactly what i was thinking just now... I cant seem to source any to ship within the USofA though!!!:very_ang:

shadows
04-29-2011, 11:32 PM
Those things are all over the place, search for "supercap coin".

Mike26
04-30-2011, 02:48 PM
mv2f backup board i bought a few months ago had the battery clipped by its prior owner, so i just got around to installing a coin battery holder and cr2032.

Dont forget to clip the lead off one of the legs of 470, i almost did until i took one last look before closing it up!!!

pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/mikeosoft/goldie%20neo/IMG_20110430_142013.jpg

thanatos
07-09-2011, 11:18 PM
Bought my cab just over a year ago, and have been lazy about the battery. Finally took it out, looks like it was just in time.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AIYsMLyZThM/ThkZaUSO8pI/AAAAAAAABW0/dYfPiSxCkMk/s400/IMG_3051.JPG

FA-MAS
07-23-2011, 04:21 PM
Just got an MV-1A and want to pull the battery. I don't know which resistor to remove, everything's surface mount.

Xian Xi
07-23-2011, 04:51 PM
Snap a pic of the charging circuit.

FA-MAS
07-23-2011, 04:55 PM
Here's a pic from earlier in the thread, mine's exactly the same. I'm thinking it's R10 since it's the only resistor actually near the battery. The others are near the crystal and ICs.

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k564/mekishiko916/Arcade%20Games/MV1A_Bottom.jpg

FA-MAS
07-23-2011, 05:13 PM
The layout's actually identical to the 1FZ picture on JNX, looks like I'd need to remove D1, D2, and R10 sound right?

Xian Xi
07-27-2011, 02:17 PM
Yup.

FA-MAS
07-28-2011, 01:58 AM
Yeah i actually took the risk and yanked those parts before you had responded. Everything's fine.

Asure
07-28-2011, 07:54 AM
How does this go for recent batteries? I just stored my PSP and Nintendo GBA SP, but left the batteries inside, do i pull them out as well? How to store those?

Xian Xi
08-07-2011, 01:11 PM
How does this go for recent batteries? I just stored my PSP and Nintendo GBA SP, but left the batteries inside, do i pull them out as well? How to store those?

I'd pull them out either way if they are going into storage.

HMG
08-07-2011, 04:18 PM
What are the odds of those modern rechargeable lithium battery packs leaking anyway? I was under the impression they are much better designed than cells from 10 to 20 years ago.

Xian Xi
08-07-2011, 05:51 PM
What are the odds of those modern rechargeable lithium battery packs leaking anyway? I was under the impression they are much better designed than cells from 10 to 20 years ago.

They still leaked, usually from the contacts on those in a device.

davekozy
08-07-2011, 09:17 PM
How about all the old cartridge games with batteries? I guess those will leak and kill the games too. It looks like I have a lot of batteries to change.

Xian Xi
08-07-2011, 09:33 PM
Not really kill the game but might eat traces causing the game not to work. And lose save data.

HMG
08-08-2011, 06:31 AM
They still leaked, usually from the contacts on those in a device.

Hmm, I suppose so. Well if ever my portables go into storage for whatever reason, I'll remember to remove the batteries.

... Umm, batteries don't leak if they aren't left powering something, right?


Not really kill the game but might eat traces causing the game not to work. And lose save data.

Non-rechargeable batteries leak too? Damn! I should keep an eye on all my battery-backed carts then. I don't have anywhere near the amount of batteries + holders to replace every single one.

Nerdygrrl
08-08-2011, 06:32 PM
Thanks for the info. I found this thread wicked helpful. I am going to check my new neo when it comes in.

HMG
08-13-2011, 03:24 AM
Excellent idea. You bought a 4-slot right? Those boards seem to be notorious for death by battery. It's definitely in your best interest to remove that asshole of a battery as soon as possible! Even if you have no replacement at the moment, it's best to remove it sooner than later. Also be sure to clean the area with some form of peroxide or whatever the others use to clean up battery acid.

Gonemad
08-16-2011, 08:10 AM
Just wondering if someone can help confirm that my battery is not eating my board and is OK. Should I remove it anyway and replace it even if it looks OK?


http://s656.photobucket.com/albums/uu287/RileyB_09/?action=view&current=DSCF0776.jpg
http://s656.photobucket.com/albums/uu287/RileyB_09/?action=view&current=DSCF0773.jpg
http://s656.photobucket.com/albums/uu287/RileyB_09/?action=view&current=DSCF0772.jpg

da66en
08-30-2011, 01:09 AM
So, anyone have a good part number for a replacement battery on Digi-Key?

El Capitan
10-12-2011, 08:45 AM
Reminder Bump

But also - I have just saved a PGM Mobo from a leaky battery, and the boards run fine without the battery.

I am now tempted to remove the batteries from about 10-15 MVS Mobos I have - More than one of everything except a 6-slot.

However, I don't really want to bother soldering in new batteries

So can anyone tell me - are there any boards which do not function without a battery. Hi Scores etc are not an issue for me.

Kid Panda
10-14-2011, 12:49 AM
hiya guys, i just want to thank Channel Maniac and everyone here for pointing out the bad battery situation, tonight i ripped that beast off and soldered in a coin holder and it looks like im all good to go, let me know if it looks like i did anything wrong (also removed the 470 resistor as well) and thanks again :D
http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af155/kidpandaAG/d4ad617c.jpg

El Capitan
10-16-2011, 12:48 PM
Reminder Bump

But also - I have just saved a PGM Mobo from a leaky battery, and the boards run fine without the battery.

I am now tempted to remove the batteries from about 10-15 MVS Mobos I have - More than one of everything except a 6-slot.

However, I don't really want to bother soldering in new batteries

So can anyone tell me - are there any boards which do not function without a battery. Hi Scores etc are not an issue for me.

Anyone wanna comment on this? Would be appreciated...

channelmaniac
10-18-2011, 09:42 AM
There are some Cave boards that will suicide if you pull the battery. Same thing with CPS1, CPS2, and CPS3.

Research before you pull batteries.

MVS: You'll lose high score saves and soft dip saves. This may affect the way you want to play a game. It's easy to do a coin cell mod on most MVS boards.

RJ

BenTAxeL
10-18-2011, 10:53 AM
Great info, I just purchased a 4 slot that is stuck on the cross of death screen. The boards are really dirty but after reading this I decided to check the battery.
Looked ok from the top but after reading the tread and discovering all its needed for is high scores I decided to remove it any way
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s286/bentaxel/DSC00186.jpg

After removal found the back had started to corrode so good thing :)
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s286/bentaxel/DSC00188.jpg

Fingers crossed that a good clean will get the board going again

IronGiant
10-18-2011, 11:00 AM
I dread to think how many Neo Geos are sitting out there, slowly corroding away from leaky batteries. It doesn't bear thinking about.

thanatos
11-10-2011, 02:46 AM
Cut the old battery out months ago, finally got around to upgrading. I also hadn't soldered anything in years, I managed not to break anything.
I was surprised that Radio Shack had a CR2032 holder that lined up perfectly. (MVS2f) It's been so long that Radio Shack has been useful!

http://i.imgur.com/2sltw.jpg

yami
11-25-2011, 07:07 AM
can i just cut the wires with a wire cutter?


Yes, you can.

Hi,
I have a MV1A, a MV1B and a MV4FT. Since I have no experience with soldering, I would at least remove the battery without doing damage.
Can I just cut in some way links (as in QUOTES above) and remove all the battery block, or there is more?
Thanks for the support

mohawk33
01-07-2012, 04:58 PM
Hello neo geo comunity,

today i got my mvs 1F board! Its my first one :-)
Now after reading this thread i am a little bit scared. I found some cristaline stuff on the battery. Do u guys think the board is allready damaged? or is it not so bad? I dont have a MAK/Supergun at the moment so i cant test.

Would you remove the battery immediately or should i wait till i can test the board (maybe the battery is still allright)....

Unfortunatelly i dont know how to attach images ...

appreciate your help!

mohawk33
01-07-2012, 05:02 PM
file:///Users/sebastianhofel/Desktop/BILD0093.JPG

mohawk33
01-07-2012, 05:03 PM
ok thats not how the attachment works:scratch:

mohawk33
01-07-2012, 07:21 PM
If you don't know how to solder it and it's getting bad you can always snip the 2 legs to at least remove the battery.

so do you mean the soldering legs on the upper side of board?

shadows
01-07-2012, 08:33 PM
so do you mean the soldering legs on the upper side of board?
Yep.

Remove the battery now, it is not needed for the operation of the board anyway. Only used to save settings.

mohawk33
01-08-2012, 06:37 AM
Allright! thanks for your help. I ve removed the battery. Now ist there a posibility that i now have an "back-up ram error"? Read something about this problem....

Thanks ! great community here ;-)

jesesfbi
01-23-2012, 10:29 PM
I got a question to the people who converted the MVS board battery to the CR2032 one I know the Sega Saturns used the exact same thing and I have a few broken ones laying around do you think I can rip those out and put it in? and I'm sorry i didn't read the whole thing but is that MVS board battery a 3volt batter?

Xian Xi
01-23-2012, 11:50 PM
Yup 3V, as long as the battery holder is the same size as the battery, if not you can use a bigger 3v battery that fits the saturn battery holder.

jesesfbi
01-25-2012, 12:44 PM
thank you Xian Xi. the Saturn battery holder is exactly the size for the CR2032 battery. BTW I love the work you do you are an inspiration to building a CMVS

dragonpt
01-25-2012, 07:06 PM
Great info, I just purchased a 4 slot that is stuck on the cross of death screen. The boards are really dirty but after reading this I decided to check the battery.
Looked ok from the top but after reading the tread and discovering all its needed for is high scores I decided to remove it any way
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s286/bentaxel/DSC00186.jpg


After removal found the back had started to corrode so good thing :)
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s286/bentaxel/DSC00188.jpg

Fingers crossed that a good clean will get the board going again
Yeah its the same bat, like in my mv-4f.
updates on that bat replacement?

i choose for put the bat away from the boards, with 20cm of wire.

in case it goes bad, atleast the boards are safe

Kid Panda
01-25-2012, 07:08 PM
i just did a cr2032 coin battery mod, works like a charm ;)

Jedah Doma
01-28-2012, 12:17 AM
So it's alright to remove my battery on my 6-slot as it only handles high scores? If so I'm taking that bad boy out pronto.

malignantpoodle
01-28-2012, 05:10 PM
So it's alright to remove my battery on my 6-slot as it only handles high scores? If so I'm taking that bad boy out pronto.

Well, it also handles your settings for each game as well (i.e. demo sound on/off, number of lives, difficulty level, etc) but yeah without a battery cab will still function.

Lan Di
02-01-2012, 04:53 AM
I didnt bother taking a photo of the original stock battery because it did not have a leak. however, I did decide to change the battery because of all the horror stories going around concerning leaking batteries destroying PCBs.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/KCgamester/IMAG0085.jpg

mohawk33
05-28-2012, 08:25 PM
does anybody know about the internal dreamcast battery? could this battery leak too and destroy the board?

HMG
06-01-2012, 03:36 PM
does anybody know about the internal dreamcast battery? could this battery leak too and destroy the board?

It will leak eventually, much like any other kind of battery used in applications like this. However I don't think there's much surrounding the battery that could be damaged, aside from maybe the controller PCB.

In the case of home consoles though, the battery will be dead long before it starts leaking, so you'd probably notice it before anything bad were to happen.

Ninjatemper
06-06-2012, 03:43 PM
It will leak eventually, much like any other kind of battery used in applications like this. However I don't think there's much surrounding the battery that could be damaged, aside from maybe the controller PCB.

In the case of home consoles though, the battery will be dead long before it starts leaking, so you'd probably notice it before anything bad were to happen.

I assume the Dreamcast will still work fine if you cut the leads and remove the battery completely without replacing it right?

Xian Xi
06-06-2012, 03:46 PM
It just wont keep your clock/calendar settings.

ArcadeAddict77
06-07-2012, 07:16 AM
Just read through this entire thread thus far and found it very interesting. When I get home tonight I am going to remove my battery good or otherwise.

I do not have a soldering station at the moment, but as the board will work fine without it I will live without high scores and settings until I can solder in a cr2032 and remove the 470 resister.

Thanks all!

Further to my note above I checked out my battery and this is what I found. I'll be looking for some cleaning materials to try to clean up the marks/stains on the board.

http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg564/ArcadeAddict77/SNK%20Neo%20Geo%20MV-1F%20Mobo/Battery%20Removal/29991dc9.jpg

blueskies758
06-08-2012, 11:32 AM
Just picked up a new red cab w/o motherboard, biggups to all who contributed on this thread, as now I can watch out for leakage on the new MVS. Invaluable thread guys!

thomas3120
08-21-2012, 06:35 PM
Hello, Couldn't create my own post yet so responded to this thread on batteries.

Attempting to fix an early MVS MV-1. Just got my UniBios & battery in the mail today.
Had a quick question on the battery on my MVS MV-1.
When I took the old battery out (NM-Cd 3.6V) I forgot to write down or take a picture of how it went back in as there are 2 adjacent solder pads on the positive side.
Just wondering if anyone that has the MV-1 1 slot MVS could take a quick look at which solder pad hole the positive leg of the battery goes into.

The solder pad closest to the battery appears to go through the mainboard to the back or solder side but nowhere else (but not 100% sure).
The solder pad closer to the small 47uF cap (farthest away from battery) appears to be connected to the rest of the circuit.

Here's a pic:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff249/thomas3120/MV1Battery.jpg

Xian Xi
08-21-2012, 06:36 PM
You can use either one, they're connected.

thomas3120
08-21-2012, 06:40 PM
Thanks very much for the quick reply! :)
Never thought about checking continuity between the 2 hehe

t

Kid Panda
08-21-2012, 06:49 PM
doesnt he need to cut something as well on that board, so not to make the battery explode? or are you using the same type of battery?

Xian Xi
08-21-2012, 07:04 PM
doesnt he need to cut something as well on that board, so not to make the battery explode? or are you using the same type of battery?

He needs to disable the charging circuit if he is planning on using a non-rechargeable battery.

Kid Panda
08-21-2012, 07:12 PM
He needs to disable the charging circuit if he is planning on using a non-rechargeable battery.
I hope he doesnt come back with a torched board :/

Fortune
08-21-2012, 07:36 PM
On my MV-1, the two positive points were not connected unlike the MV-2F boards I have.

Since the CR2032 battery holder goes into the inner solder point, I had to make a small bead of solder to connect them.

KaPH33n
08-21-2012, 07:56 PM
On my MV-1, the two positive points were not connected unlike the MV-2F boards I have.

Since the CR2032 battery holder goes into the inner solder point, I had to make a small bead of solder to connect them.

a small bead of solder is hardly ever the best way to bridge two points. only time i would recommend this is if the distance you are spanning is less than the diameter of whatever wire you have on hand.

Fortune
08-21-2012, 07:58 PM
a small bead of solder is hardly ever the best way to bridge two points. only time i would recommend this is if the distance you are spanning is less than the diameter of whatever wire you have on hand.

The two rings are nearly touching already.

Xian Xi
08-21-2012, 08:14 PM
Forgot on an MV1 they aren't touching especially on the slide dip ones. I use the one on the left anyway which is connected to the circuit. But like mentioned, a small bead of solder can be used since they are less than 1mm away from one another.

thomas3120
08-21-2012, 09:17 PM
Just checked a few things out. There's no continuity between the 2 adjacent solder pads on the positive side.
The battery I'm using is a re-chargeable VARTA (3/ V80H) (green plastic cover), 3.6V and 70mAh. It's also a Ni-MH instead of the original Ni-Cd.
I'm still waiting on my JAMMA harness so haven't powered anything yet.
I went ahead and used the positive battery pin to join those 2 adjacent solder pads. Is this ok?
Also, a bit more info on my board:
NEO-MVH MV1 (if this helps any)

t

Voltamp
08-22-2012, 07:23 AM
Gents, can I just ask a related question. Many people have suggested cleaning the board once the battery has been taken out but.... What with? What should I use that won't spread the acid or just eatthrough the traces itself? Sorry if this seems stupid to people, not really an electronics guru.

Many thanks,

Fortune
08-22-2012, 09:41 AM
Just checked a few things out. There's no continuity between the 2 adjacent solder pads on the positive side.
The battery I'm using is a re-chargeable VARTA (3/ V80H) (green plastic cover), 3.6V and 70mAh. It's also a Ni-MH instead of the original Ni-Cd.
I'm still waiting on my JAMMA harness so haven't powered anything yet.
I went ahead and used the positive battery pin to join those 2 adjacent solder pads. Is this ok?
Also, a bit more info on my board:
NEO-MVH MV1 (if this helps any)

t

I'm sure someone else here would know more about the specifics of different rechargeable batteries to give a more definitive answer. As far as I know, that battery should work fine.

Using the positive pin from the battery to bridge the two positive pads on the board should be a reasonable solution to complete the circuit.

Fortune
08-22-2012, 09:49 AM
Gents, can I just ask a related question. Many people have suggested cleaning the board once the battery has been taken out but.... What with? What should I use that won't spread the acid or just eatthrough the traces itself? Sorry if this seems stupid to people, not really an electronics guru.

Many thanks,

I would use a mild mixture of baking soda and warm water, and dab the solution onto the board with cotton swabs. Once the solution has had a second or two to react with acid that may be on the board, I would then use clean water to swab down the area. This is to help remove any baking soda residue and bring the area to a more neutral pH level. Using clean dry cotton swabs, I would wipe down the area to dry it out. Then repeat the previous two steps again with a high percentage rubbing alcohol instead of water.

Yodd
08-22-2012, 10:03 AM
As an alternative, I have used fresh squeezed Lemon juice to neutralize the acid and then used water and/or isopropyl alcohol to clean up afterwards.

thomas3120
08-22-2012, 12:08 PM
Thanks for the reply :)

Xian Xi
08-22-2012, 02:07 PM
Make sure you remove the battery and any socketed chips before washing.

After you neutralise the area then just was the board all over with warm water and liquid soap using a toothbrush. After you are done rinsing the board let it stand vertical and drip dry for at least 30 minutes and use canned air or compressed air to get water from under the chips out. After that I let it sit in the sun to dry for about 2 hours if it's nice and sunny some people go longer like 3-4 hours but I'm in Hawaii so maybe it's hotter here.

Just make sure the board is completely dry before powering it back on.

lachlan
08-22-2012, 06:13 PM
I do the same thing. Baking soda mixed with distilled water to first treat the damaged area and then a rinse off with distilled water. I dont have a compressor or canned compressed air so I just violently wave the board around and most of the water tends to fly out. Towel to dry the remaining water and then I just let it stand vertical for a couple days. I just wish it always worked miracles.

WildBill15650
08-22-2012, 10:34 PM
Is Channelmanic still on? I tried his website to see if doing board swaps/repairs... no answer.
Thanks
Bill

channelmaniac
08-23-2012, 03:52 AM
Try a PM here ;)

I'm behind on emails.

Voltamp
08-23-2012, 07:23 AM
Thanks for the replies people. Looks like I have some cleaning to do, battery looks like its only just started going so not too much to clean up.

As for drying it... Well, I live in the UK so I think 2-3 days would be required to dry it out in the sun!

channelmaniac
08-23-2012, 10:38 AM
Thanks for the replies people. Looks like I have some cleaning to do, battery looks like its only just started going so not too much to clean up.

As for drying it... Well, I live in the UK so I think 2-3 days would be required to dry it out in the sun!

I dry boards in the oven at 170 degrees F. NO hotter.

The only issue I've found is that silly plastic guide for the mem card on the 2 slot will sag. Just lift it back in place with a butter knife a blow on it until it cools and sets in place.

WildBill15650
08-23-2012, 01:22 PM
Try a PM here ;)

I'm behind on emails.

PM sent... I am actually excited that there may be a way to save my 2 slot board... and from every place I looked online all signs point to you if I want it done right.

WildBill15650
08-23-2012, 01:53 PM
My 2 slot battery was removed.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/481141_346709248748644_1052893200_n.jpg
view from another angle
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/480534_346709082081994_1478585470_n.jpg

Hawk
09-05-2012, 07:24 AM
Hey guys going to pick up my 2 slot tommorow! This will be the first thing I check when I get her home! Thanks for the heads up!

CaseyTappy
09-07-2012, 04:21 PM
Didn't know about the battery thing although I should have because I have PGM CAVE boards and I replaced those batteries .

Checked my PGM mobo :


Not good .
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc232/Casey120/Crap/DSCF5481.jpg

Luckily I still had one battery left from the previous replacements :

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc232/Casey120/Crap/DSCF5487.jpg

Cleaned up the surround with a little alcohol and wrote the date on the battery .

chris1
10-09-2012, 04:28 PM
Hello...I come here basically daily to surf threads but I have been way out of focus when it comes to messing with the MVS..my kids play my cabs more today then I do,....with the new baby I just don’t have the time..
I have known about this dead battery issue for a long time and knew there was a thread here but “sorry’ after reading page after page I have a headache..

I need some selective help..



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Chris1/2012%20PICTURE%20ALBUM/MVS022.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Chris1/2012%20PICTURE%20ALBUM/MVS023.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/Chris1/2012%20PICTURE%20ALBUM/MVS024.jpg



I went to turn on the BIG RED 4 Slot MVS and my Soft Dip settings were back to factory UH OH..
The games in slot 3-4 were not selecting,registering..(cab off..I open the cab up and reset the third game and then game 3 and 4 work..That’s weird..

I change my soft dip settings (no level credits on screen) and leave the cab on for a few hours.Back on later it’s holding my setting,but I know the battery is going...Loss of settings seems to happen more then it used to..
It’s one of those jobs I am WEARY to do but I can solder..
I have a soldering set as I replace GBA/GBC bateries..

What I need to know is..
Is this a simple de-solder battery out and solder it in?,..”any special solder type I need”..

Where is the Battery on a MVS 4 Slot (Big Board) I assume I have to split the boards..

I want to keep it simple..just get a replacement battery and install it.

I went looking on ebay
Is this what I need?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEO-GEO-REPLACEMENT-BATTERY-FOR-MV4F-BOARD-/380331269179

lastcallhall
10-09-2012, 05:49 PM
Glad I read this entire thread. :) I just sniped a 2 slot off of eBay for dirt cheap, but it has the calendar error message. One of the possible points of failure was the battery, so I was curious as to what others have tried to fix that aspect of the system. I really can't wait until the weekend when I (hopefully) get the board in to mess around with. I have a unibios 3.0 in my AES that I'll probably throw into the 2 slot since it can already save high scores and toss a 3.1 into the AES sometime down the road. Excited!!

Xian Xi
10-09-2012, 06:17 PM
Glad I read this entire thread. :) I just sniped a 2 slot off of eBay for dirt cheap, but it has the calendar error message. One of the possible points of failure was the battery, so I was curious as to what others have tried to fix that aspect of the system. I really can't wait until the weekend when I (hopefully) get the board in to mess around with. I have a unibios 3.0 in my AES that I'll probably throw into the 2 slot since it can already save high scores and toss a 3.1 into the AES sometime down the road. Excited!!

If it's a calendar error it's either broken trace(s), bad 4990 or bad crystal usually. Once in a great while it's something else. Either way it's usually a simple fix.

lastcallhall
10-09-2012, 06:30 PM
If it's a calendar error it's either broken trace(s), bad 4990 or bad crystal usually. Once in a great while it's something else. Either way it's usually a simple fix.

Awesome, good to know. :) I read your write up on how to consolize a 2 slot and it looks like something I can get done rather cheaply on my end. Thanks again!

Xian Xi
10-09-2012, 06:56 PM
Awesome, good to know. :) I read your write up on how to consolize a 2 slot and it looks like something I can get done rather cheaply on my end. Thanks again!

The guide is really for noobs, which I know you are not. Consolizing a 2 slot only takes about an hour and that includes the time to drill the cover and deburr the edges, easiest board to consolize.

RabbitTroop
10-09-2012, 11:07 PM
About to replace the battery on my MV6. Anyone know which battery that uses? Looking at this auction (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEO-GEO-REPLACEMENT-BATTERY-FOR-MV2F-BOARD-/360493500251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ef16475b), it seems to hint that it is the only board that uses something special. Anyone know what it needs? Thanks!

Ssturtle
10-10-2012, 03:40 PM
About to replace the battery on my MV6. Anyone know which battery that uses? Looking at this auction (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEO-GEO-REPLACEMENT-BATTERY-FOR-MV2F-BOARD-/360493500251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ef16475b), it seems to hint that it is the only board that uses something special. Anyone know what it needs? Thanks!

Check out this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTP9_gS31Tw

lastcallhall
10-10-2012, 03:51 PM
The guide is really for noobs, which I know you are not. Consolizing a 2 slot only takes about an hour and that includes the time to drill the cover and deburr the edges, easiest board to consolize.

That's what I love to hear - thanks for the compliment. :)

lachlan
10-10-2012, 04:57 PM
I make a habit of removing the battery regardless of leakage or not. I figure they're probably 20 years old by now and the cost of a holder/3v coin cell why not?

slerch666
10-11-2012, 12:33 PM
So seeing this thread (I still lurk from time to time, just don't bother posting), I'm going to pull my 4 slot battery completely. Going to pop the 2 slot cab open and cut the battery there too. I don't need high scores.

One thing I'm curious about is what about the Hyper Neo? I assume I should probably be worried about that one too? I assume it's just a battery on the board and not in the games?

Thanks everyone.