[SOLVED] My NeoGeo monitor probably needs a cap kit, but...

aclbandit

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I finally got myself a NeoGeo cabinet. I've had a bit of an adventure with it, but thanks to the guys on RetroGaming Roundtable, it's back to functioning as it did before I brought it home.

Its issue is the monitor: on the "grid" screen, it's pink at the bottom, gradually moving into white (like it should be) on the way up, then yellow at the top. From the info I've found, it sounds like the monitor needs a cap kit (I've been recommended to therealbobroberts.net).

Here's the problem, though: the monitor isn't listed on Bob's site. It's an RCA A63ADT10X5, I think. Bob doesn't have RCA cap kits, at least not that I can find.

I've already tried messing with the "pots," and it looks better than it did, but it's still not great.

Does it seem like something a cap kit could fix? If so, where do I find one for my monitor?

Thanks in advance, guys. I'm both new here, as well as new to the NeoGeo scene entirely, so I might be asking some obvious stuff. I do apologize if that's the case.
 
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grantspain

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sounds more like the degauss is not working-is it manual or auto degauss?
 

aclbandit

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sounds more like the degauss is not working-is it manual or auto degauss?

*Wikipedias what "degauss" means*

I have no idea. How would I find out? How would I fix it? Would pictures of the screen help at all?
 

Dion

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Yeah definately sounds like a degauss problem. Search "degaussing coil" on ebay.

As far as the monitor, I bet your looking at the info on the tube. Its probably an RCA tube. Check for identifying info on the monitor chassis or post pics of the chassis for us to see.
 

aclbandit

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Yeah definately sounds like a degauss problem. Search "degaussing coil" on ebay.

As far as the monitor, I bet your looking at the info on the tube. Its probably an RCA tube. Check for identifying info on the monitor chassis or post pics of the chassis for us to see.

Okay, great -- degaussing coils look like a super-cool thing to have around anyway.

Also, it's an RCA tube, yep (says so on the back). Only other thing I can find thus far (as I have no flashlight, the overhead light is positioned badly for viewing the inside of the cabinet, and it's nighttime now) is "CGM2500" on a sticker near the monitor's circuit board. If that's not helpful, let me know -- I'll get pics in the morning or afternoon once there's some light in here.

EDIT: Google yields a "QNIC CGM2500" as a monitor which exists. Since I really am new at this, I shall pass this info on in hope that someone can help.

Also, just something else to note which may not have to do with degaussing: the upper half of the picture is stretched, but not the lower half (or perhaps the upper is stretched and the lower is also squished? tough to tell. Either way, it's not right). Once again, no idea what this means, but willing to learn.
 
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Blur2040

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The stretch will likely be fixed by a cap kit. Degauss will likely get the red if the cap kit doesn't.
 

aclbandit

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The stretch will likely be fixed by a cap kit. Degauss will likely get the red if the cap kit doesn't.

Great. I'll do both then.

Seems Mr. Bob Roberts has a cap kit for the QNIC 2500. Just to be certain, since that's what mine says on the circuit board (i.e., NOT the RCA tube), that's the one I should grab, right?
 

hindered

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Great. I'll do both then.

Seems Mr. Bob Roberts has a cap kit for the QNIC 2500. Just to be certain, since that's what mine says on the circuit board (i.e., NOT the RCA tube), that's the one I should grab, right?

Correct. Cap kits are for chassis, which is the circuit board. The tube is just a tube, more or less.
 

aclbandit

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Correct. Cap kits are for chassis, which is the circuit board. The tube is just a tube, more or less.

Grand. Thanks a bunch. I'll order the cap kit, then see if my local specialty electronics store has a degausser; if not, I'll order that too.

You've been very helpful, folks.

Is there an RSS feed for this forum?
 

grantspain

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the caps should sort the linearity issue but you should also look for a vert linearity pot first(just in case of poor adjustment)
the degauss issue is most likely a faulty PTC and you should check the degauss coil is actually plugged in
 

aclbandit

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the caps should sort the linearity issue but you should also look for a vert linearity pot first(just in case of poor adjustment)
the degauss issue is most likely a faulty PTC and you should check the degauss coil is actually plugged in

How do I find the degauss coil's plug? Where is the degauss coil in relation to the chassis/tube?
 

R3LL1K

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How do I find the degauss coil's plug? Where is the degauss coil in relation to the chassis/tube?
The degaussing coil plugs into the chassis at the end that's closer to the tube. It's a connector which has two identical wires coming out of it with each wire going to one side of the monitor or into a thick black wire which goes around the tube.
 

aclbandit

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The degaussing coil plugs into the chassis at the end that's closer to the tube. It's a connector which has two identical wires coming out of it with each wire going to one side of the monitor or into a thick black wire which goes around the tube.

I thought that might be what that thing was. Yep, it's plugged in. I've ordered an external degausser, so hopefully that'll take care of it, at least for a while.

Also in the process of ordering a cap kit.

As a worst-case-scenario, when I called the local speciality electronics store, he said that if I couldn't fix it he could cut me a deal on a 25" picture tube, since he apparently has about 20 of them in stock that he can't get rid of (no demand for those locally these days, I guess?). So on this hypothetical note, if it's "dead," would any tube work with my chassis? Is buying a replacement (functional) chassis expensive? Again, this paragraph is hypothetical as a "just in case."
 

Dion

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I doubt anything is really wrong with the tube once its degaussed. The chassis is the key to any monitor. But to answer your question. Its hard to match up a replacement tube for a chassis since the chassis is designed to work only with a specific tube.
 

aclbandit

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I doubt anything is really wrong with the tube once its degaussed. The chassis is the key to any monitor. But to answer your question. Its hard to match up a replacement tube for a chassis since the chassis is designed to work only with a specific tube.

Well, due to the stretching and lack of ability to move the picture all the way to the bottom of the screen, I'd wager that degaussing won't fix everything. Hopefully, though, a cap kit will since anything further up costs a lot.

EDIT: Also, thanks for the info.
 

aclbandit

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Degaussing coil arrived in the mail today, so I fired it up and followed the instructions.

It worked! The screen is all the right colors! Still stretched out, but should be getting my order for the cap kit sent off tomorrow.

Thanks a lot guys! Will get back to you when the cap kit is in place.

Off now to play Metal Slug, which also arrived in the mail today. wewt.
 

aclbandit

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Received the cap kit and installed 19 of the 20 (one was different than the one I had, so I skipped it).

Looks FANTASTIC! All of my problems have been solved through the use of the degaussing coil and the cap kit.

Thank you guys so much, you've been very informative and helpful.

marking as *solved*
 

2D_mastur

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Being an uber-newb, I cannot even create a thread yet. Hopefully the thread starter won't get too pissed that I am piggy-backing on his thread.

But my problem is related.

I've been a Neo Geo fan since I was a kid and always wanted a MVS cab of my own but living in a small town... I've never had a chance to get one. Recently I saw an ad on craigs list for a functioning MVS Cab on craigslist. The asking price is $50. It includes a Metal Slug 1 "board" (I think the seller means cartridge/kit). The only problem is that the sellers say the monitor is dark and that in order to see the image there needs to be minimal ambient light. The seller suggested getting the monitor "re-capped". From what I read from this thread and others, this can be tricky.

Is this machine even worth $50? I figure that the "board" or cart is worth that alone.

Forgive my newbish questions. I'd appreciate any help,.
 
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aclbandit

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Being an uber-newb, I cannot even create a thread yet. Hopefully the thread starter won't get too pissed that I am piggy-backing on his thread.

But my problem is related.

I've been a Neo Geo fan since I was a kid and always wanted a MVS cab of my own but living in a small town... I've never had a chance to get one. Recently I saw an ad on craigs list for a functioning MVS Cab on craigslist. The asking price is $50. It includes a Metal Slug 1 "board" (I think the seller means cartridge/kit). The only problem is that the sellers say the monitor is dark and that in order to see the image there needs to be minimal ambient light. The seller suggested getting the monitor "re-capped". From what I read from this thread and others, this can be tricky.

Is this machine even worth $50? I figure that the "board" or cart is worth that alone.

Forgive my newbish questions. I'd appreciate any help,.

$50? Wih Metal Slug? Hell yes it's worth it. Metal Slug aloe sell for more than that on eBay. Well-done, sir. Get it.

"Re-Capping" just involves ordering a capacitor kit from therealbobroberts.net and a couple hours of soldering. It's not difficult, just time-consuming. Also make sure you follow instructions on how not to electrocute yourself to death. And, for only $50, you're likely getting one hell of a deal.

I say go for it. Worst case you consolize the board and you've still saved a bunch of money.
 

2D_mastur

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$50? Wih Metal Slug? Hell yes it's worth it. Metal Slug aloe sell for more than that on eBay. Well-done, sir. Get it.

"Re-Capping" just involves ordering a capacitor kit from therealbobroberts.net and a couple hours of soldering. It's not difficult, just time-consuming. Also make sure you follow instructions on how not to electrocute yourself to death. And, for only $50, you're likely getting one hell of a deal.

I say go for it. Worst case you consolize the board and you've still saved a bunch of money.

Thanks for the advise. But I wonder what you mean by "Worst case you consolize the board and you've still saved a bunch of money," what does consolize the board mean?

Also I just found out that this "Neo-Geo cab" has 1942. I know, I know this is a Capcom game. Because this machine has 1942 it leads me to believe that this is not a genuine Neo-Geo MVS cab. Also the seller said that there are two game "BOARDS" installed. Aren't the games usually reffered to as "kits" or cartridges? Does Metal Slug even come on a "Board". I want to make sure this is'nt some weird modded cab, I want a Neo-geo cab so I can easily play other MVS games.

Forgive me if my questions are stupid/newbish.

The seller also provided a picture, I will attach it. Looks genuine to me, but I'm not well learned on Neo-Geo cabs.

3n43md3ld5O35Q05Pd98u5002548565d2130a.jpg


Any help would be greatly appreicated.
 
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Bskull

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Consolize means redesigning the board for the ability to be used with a normal television. For example, to get stereo output, you would connect audio left and right connections to the board and to get video, you can either connect composite, s-video, or even component. Of course for the video portion, it is best to get an encoder (a specialized board designed to convert the video signals of the motherboard of the Neo-Geo MVS to the appropriate outputs). It can be difficult at first to do if one is not familiar with the specifications of the motherboard that one has, but there are many guides out there for those who wish to get started.
 
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aclbandit

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What he said about consolization.

Also, that picture you attached is a bit odd -- the button layout seems to be right, but it's missing the control panel overlay. Now, I'm not sure about the exact details, so don't take any of the rest of this paragraph as gospel, but an MVS is "sort of" Jamma (that's an arcade machine board standard so that boards can be easily swapped between machines), and with only minor modification to the cabinet, or with a MVS/JAMMA converter, other JAMMA-compliant "boards" can be used.

Hopefully, he means that he has an MVS board and a 1942 board, and has a Metal Slug cartridge to go into the MVS board. I'd ask for more specifics about what he means by "board" and whether or not it's a real MVS MoBo. Even perhaps ask for pictures of the "boards" and/or go look at it yourself to make sure.
 

Dion

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1942 isn't JAMMA so the cabinet is either not JAMMA or he is using an adapter to play 1942 in it. Also, its a conversion cab meaning it was some other game before it was a Neo. Just to confuse you more. Sorry.
 

DanAdamKOF

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Perhaps the seller means Strikers 1945 and he's confused?

1942 is a vertical game to boot, unless that monitor can rotate then it wouldn't be playable in that cabinet (unless you're in the mood to develop a bad neck strain).
 

2D_mastur

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Bskull- Thanks for clearing that up. Consolizing a cab seems pretty hard.

AlcBandit - Yeah the button layout looks ok to me but I am used to seeing the pretty-Red contol panel overlay. Scares me not to see it. About the "boards" the guy does not seem to really have knowledge enough to tell me what exactly he mean by "boards" he seems confused himself.

Mitsurugi-w - I had no idea that such an adapter existed. Hopefully this is the case. I really hope that this is not a converted cab, I want a neo geo cab.

DanAdamKof - Yeah I looked into that as well, since Strikers 1945 is supposed to be an unofficial sequel to 1942... maybe just maybe he is utterly confused. This would be the best case scenario. Yeah the cab (as seen in the picture) does not a have vertical monitor... true, true I never thought about that. IF it is 1942 on this cab, it must look funny.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Also I noticed that this cab must be a one slot Neo-Geo (if it is MVS), Because I don't see a Select Game button. Am I right in inferring that? So how THE HELL is he playing 2 games at once?

Also, can anybody show me a picture of what that inside of the control panel would look like if this is a genuine one-slot Neo-Geo cab? Any other checks that you guys can suggest to validate it's authenticity would be great. I am going to see the cab this Saturday.

Thanks for all your help so far guys!
 
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