Monitor stuff
- Thread starter EvilMike
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They would effect the color of the picture, not the overall quality or sharpness though. However if you have a problem with one color being more prominent then another, then adjust the cut-off knobs. For example, the screen may seem "pinkish", this is common problem, you need to adjust the red cut-off to elimate this, or bring the blue and green cut-off's to a level equal to the red's.
I wouldn't recommend changing the "drive" knobs though.
I wouldn't recommend changing the "drive" knobs though.
Briggs
I'm getting too old for this shit...,
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Depends on the monitor. Some have a "focus" knob but mostly the focus is achieved by adjusting the convergence rings on the monitor tube. This is really tricky and can make things much worse as well.
The drive and cut off knobs can help somewhat if a color is too bright and flares out you can bring it down. Sometimes the flaring out can make the picture less sharp.
The drive and cut off knobs can help somewhat if a color is too bright and flares out you can bring it down. Sometimes the flaring out can make the picture less sharp.
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Nah they don't do anything - they're suggesting u cut them off 
lmao j/k
lmao j/k
Check on the monitor and try to find a focus adjustment. A lot of the time the focus knob can be found on the flyback or on the HV section of the monitor board. Adjust it very, very slowly though, you don't want to start crankin it from side to side.
Briggs
I'm getting too old for this shit...,
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they will look like cardboard rings with tabs on the neck of the monitor. Really close to the part of the monitor that will kill you. Most likely they will be glued in place.
Don't mess with them unless you know what you are doing or at least have a manual for the monitor.
Don't mess with them unless you know what you are doing or at least have a manual for the monitor.
Note, the 'monitor' isn't only that tube that you have in the cab (because you say 'on the back of my monitor')
The monitor consists of the tube (with the rings you mention) a necboard (with rgb drive/cutoff) and a small pcb. On this pcb there's a white tower where a red cable comes out of that goes back to a 'suction cup' on the tube. Don't go near the suction cup. It holds 10.000 volts on the tube when off, 20.000+ when on.
Now, the small white tower on the pcb, should have SCREEN and FOCUS knobs on them. Screen affects the brightness, FOCUS the focus
There is lots more adjustment possible with the pcb, if all there was were rings and a tube, monitors would be easy to diagnose and repair. The monitor 'heart' itself is not the tube, but the pcb with the tower on it. No 20.000 volts is no picture
The rings on the neck of the tube.. stay clear, they are very hard to align properly.
- Alex
p.s. i once had a buddy that bought a cab, he had the worst blurry screen i ever saw, i spent 15 minutes trying for it to focus correctly but it wouldnt....
Then, we cleaned the crud off the smoked glass, and the tube itself and it had a perfect picture..
The monitor consists of the tube (with the rings you mention) a necboard (with rgb drive/cutoff) and a small pcb. On this pcb there's a white tower where a red cable comes out of that goes back to a 'suction cup' on the tube. Don't go near the suction cup. It holds 10.000 volts on the tube when off, 20.000+ when on.
Now, the small white tower on the pcb, should have SCREEN and FOCUS knobs on them. Screen affects the brightness, FOCUS the focus
There is lots more adjustment possible with the pcb, if all there was were rings and a tube, monitors would be easy to diagnose and repair. The monitor 'heart' itself is not the tube, but the pcb with the tower on it. No 20.000 volts is no picture
The rings on the neck of the tube.. stay clear, they are very hard to align properly.
- Alex
p.s. i once had a buddy that bought a cab, he had the worst blurry screen i ever saw, i spent 15 minutes trying for it to focus correctly but it wouldnt....
Then, we cleaned the crud off the smoked glass, and the tube itself and it had a perfect picture..
ttooddddyy
PNG FTW,
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If you are tempted to move the magnetic convergence and purity rings on the CRT neck, my tip would be to mark them first; correction fluid is good for this. Draw a line that you can line up later when things turn to shit (which they are likely to if you don’t know what your doing) Sometimes there is a mark already there for this reason.
Adjusting these rings will adjust the purity and rgb convergence. Shouldn’t affect focus.
The line flyback transformer will have two pots (unless its a Sony), the bottom is the screen voltage adjustment which will vary "brightness", if too high you will see retrace lines and raster when there should be black. Too low will cause low brightness and streaking on peaks, R, G and or B.It should be adjusted to just below visible raster on the screen, ie black. Best adjusted in low light.
The top pot is the focus; it maybe difficult to adjust while a game is in play. Go into set up mode and select the cross hatch, thats one of the reasons its there.
Regarding the rgb drives and cut offs, the idea is to get acceptable "grey scale tracking" black to white with no tint on high and low brightness levels. It varies with the condition of the tube, suggest the drives are tailored to compensate for low emission of any of the guns.
Probably a good idea to get advice from someone in the know, its a tricky adjustment and can be dangerous.
[ October 17, 2002: Message edited by: ttooddddyy ]</p>
Adjusting these rings will adjust the purity and rgb convergence. Shouldn’t affect focus.
The line flyback transformer will have two pots (unless its a Sony), the bottom is the screen voltage adjustment which will vary "brightness", if too high you will see retrace lines and raster when there should be black. Too low will cause low brightness and streaking on peaks, R, G and or B.It should be adjusted to just below visible raster on the screen, ie black. Best adjusted in low light.
The top pot is the focus; it maybe difficult to adjust while a game is in play. Go into set up mode and select the cross hatch, thats one of the reasons its there.
Regarding the rgb drives and cut offs, the idea is to get acceptable "grey scale tracking" black to white with no tint on high and low brightness levels. It varies with the condition of the tube, suggest the drives are tailored to compensate for low emission of any of the guns.
Probably a good idea to get advice from someone in the know, its a tricky adjustment and can be dangerous.
[ October 17, 2002: Message edited by: ttooddddyy ]</p>
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Hey Mike,go purchase a new monitor if your not satisfied with the quality.. don't fiddle around with the monitor too much if your a novice..
The charge in those things will sit you on your ass so fast you won't know what hit you..if you survive...people have survived the charge but have been thrown backward with great force and singed...
it ain't worth it.
-BB
[ October 17, 2002: Message edited by: BIG BEAR ]</p>
The charge in those things will sit you on your ass so fast you won't know what hit you..if you survive...people have survived the charge but have been thrown backward with great force and singed...
it ain't worth it.
-BB
[ October 17, 2002: Message edited by: BIG BEAR ]</p>
ttooddddyy
PNG FTW,
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Originally posted by Briggs:
<strong>
Couldn't hurt to tell him the actual names, could it?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Just get carried away at times
Briggs:
The way i read the message , it seemed to me you were dissing me for not knowing what a flyback was. Sorry if i misunderstood, my above reply was based on how i percieved your message.
Evilmike:
I find it's always a challenge to learn & work with stuff you don't understand
There's one thing usually overlooked, and that's crud on the monitor glass, and the front o/t tube itself. Try to get out the glass and wipe it. If it's a beat up old cab, it's probably dirty.
The tube static attracts dust and over the years, a lot can build up. You can clean the tube easily
Let us know if this helps. Also, does the focus adjustment on your flyback exist or is there none ?
- Alex
The way i read the message , it seemed to me you were dissing me for not knowing what a flyback was. Sorry if i misunderstood, my above reply was based on how i percieved your message.
Evilmike:
I find it's always a challenge to learn & work with stuff you don't understand
There's one thing usually overlooked, and that's crud on the monitor glass, and the front o/t tube itself. Try to get out the glass and wipe it. If it's a beat up old cab, it's probably dirty.
The tube static attracts dust and over the years, a lot can build up. You can clean the tube easily
Let us know if this helps. Also, does the focus adjustment on your flyback exist or is there none ?
- Alex
ttooddddyy
PNG FTW,
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