Really need a tutorial...

AtariBorn

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I just got my 4 slot in and I've been looking everywhere for a tutorial on how to consolize it.

I found this over at NTSCUK, but I cannot seem to get ahold of the guy who put it together (J0e Musashi ), as their registration is a bit flakey...

1.jpg




2.jpg


This seems to be a very neat and clean setup.

I'm gearing toward this mod rather than the supergun, only it's lacking the RGB jacks I would prefer.

Just need to know where to tap the RGB signals/test switch/service switch, where to find that power supply, etc.

Can someone point me in the right direction?
 

AtariBorn

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So far...

Got it apart and cleaned it up...

01.jpg


02.jpg


And got that NiCad battery out.

03.jpg




Now what?
 

Xian Xi

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Perform a battery mod to use a coincell battery holder instead of a rechargable battery.

MKL should know which resistor and/or diodes to remove from the charging circuit.
 

AtariBorn

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I've done alot of modding in my day, just not MVS. But as far as I can tell, you can actually do this mod without using the Jamma edge or a video converter right?

I mean for just RGB. I might want to add S-video/Composite, but other than those features, I won't need anything extra (besides jacks), right?
 
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AtariBorn

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Perform a battery mod to use a coincell battery holder instead of a rechargable battery.

MKL should know which resistor and/or diodes to remove from the charging circuit.

I'm not sure about this one, but the 2 slot mod says to remove the 470ohm resistor next to the battery. Mine has that resistor just to the left of the battery.
 
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AtariBorn

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I know you guys are tired of this thread...

I found some "points of interest" in the 2 Slot PDF above.

Here are some of the images from the PDF...
2slot.jpg


And here is my 4 slot, showing some similarities...
highlight.jpg


Can anyone confirm if these locations are correct, or am I just pissing in the wind?

I really don't want to fry this board.:loco:
 

Xian Xi

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chck them with a multimeter and see if you get continuity from the edge to those spots for the RGB sync.
 

AtariBorn

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Got the multimeter...

I'll check the edge connector tonight.

I have no idea about the SYNC, my only clue is the "470" and "100" resistors right next to each other. Seems to be the same on the 2 slot.

Why is the power regulator modded on the 2 slot?
Is it because you're not using a standard cabinet power supply to consolize the system?
 
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AtariBorn

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Here are the results...

Resistor # 1: Connector 12 = Correct
Resister # 2: Connector N= Correct
Resister # 3: Connector 13= Incorrect...

That last resistor, that I thought would be connector 13 (blue, occording to the pin-out jediurchin supplied), was actually tied to connector 11 ???

I'll have to check the pinout on my manual to see if the edge is different...

Also, the resistor I thought was the video SYNC was also correct (P) :glee:
 

xiao_haozi

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Here are the results...

Resistor # 1: Connector 12 = Correct
Resister # 2: Connector N= Correct
Resister # 3: Connector 13= Incorrect...

That last resistor, that I thought would be connector 13 (blue, occording to the pin-out jediurchin supplied), was actually tied to connector 11 ???

I'll have to check the pinout on my manual to see if the edge is different...

Also, the resistor I thought was the video SYNC was also correct (P) :glee:


Yeah like XX said, just check everything off the edge. Follow the traces back visually and then keep checking with your multimeter for continuity. The edge should be the same as the 2 slot. It's just MVS pinout.
 

xiao_haozi

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Why is the power regulator modded on the 2 slot?
Is it because you're not using a standard cabinet power supply to consolize the system?

So we can power it with only +5V. It's for convenience mostly. You can just use a small wall adaptor style PSU (3A) and power the 2 slot without needing a +12V input.
 

AtariBorn

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...

OK!

I didn't realize that the space cut out on the edge is actually considered connector 7 (KEY), right.

If so, then everything ties up, only in a different order than the 2 slot:

rgb.jpg
AND
sync.jpg


I'm guessing on the "8.2" resistors.

Actually, most of the resisters to the left of the nearest "8.2" show continuity along with it...I'm assuming that it's because each resister in that row has something to do with the color signal. Did I say that right?
 
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xiao_haozi

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OK!

I didn't realize that the space cut out on the edge is actually considered connector 7 (KEY), right.

If so, then everything ties up, only in a different order than the 2 slot:

Yes key is the empty cutout on the edge.
And yeah they should just be to the 8.2k resistors (for the rgb connections).

Not sure about video ground though on the 4 slot but for the 2 slot I grab off the right LS273 chip from the bottom right leg (looking with the edge at your chest). Not sure with the 4 slot though... but you can just check with visual following of the video ground pin back (as measuring continuity might through you off as it is continuous with all the regular ground connections).
 

AtariBorn

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Both of the LS273's above the cluster match up with connector 14. Damn near every chip on this board does on the bottom right leg...
 

xiao_haozi

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Both of the LS273's above the cluster match up with connector 14. Damn near every chip on this board does on the bottom right leg...

Tha'ts probably cause you are testing continuity and just finding grounds.
Video ground is continuous with the regular ground by multimeter probing.

I found my spot by just looking at the trace off of the video ground pin and visually following it back to the first component off the edge.
 

AtariBorn

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I should probably get a video encoder, in case I'm away from my LCD for some reason.

Neobitz?

Also, I'm going to need resistors/pots between these tappings and my RGB jacks right? Unless the encoder solves that problem.
 
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xiao_haozi

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I should probably get a video encoder, in case I'm away from my LCD for some reason, right?

Neobitz?

yeah if you plan on doing any non-rgb stuff.

Can just email Jeff and get one http://www.neobitz.com/.

Just tap those rgb signals into the neobitz and then the outs to your jacks.

How were you going to do your rgb output? I guess you could maybe have a separate rgb output that branches off before the neobitz.
 

AtariBorn

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Originally, I wasn't planning on using an encoder, just straight RGB-pots-jacks...but then I started thinking, if I'm going to do this, I might as well do it right.
 
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