Color issue with my consolized 4 slot

K'99

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After finding out I had a bad PSU I was so relieved it wasn't the system itself, but now I have another issue. The middle rgb knob either makes the screen bright purple or a light shade of green. I've never consolized a mvs system before so I'm not sure what the issue could be. I pulled off the top cover to see if a wire was loose or the soldering job was half assed(like I know what to look for, lol) but everything looked clean for the most part. Any ideas? Like I said I'm a total noob when it comes to this stuff, so if there's someone even in the Orlando area(32812) that could come over and check it out, I would greatly appreciate it.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
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Why does it even have RGB knobs?

Anywho, double check to make sure the pots are even wired correctly.

Pics would help out tremendously, close ones even better. If you camera has a macro setting(looks like a flower) use it.
 

K'99

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Yeah, those are mine and I'm not sure why there are 3 wires going to them. Like I said, I'm a total noob when it comes to this stuff and the consolization was not done by me. I bought it from someone off ebay from Germany about a year and half ago. It's worked flawlessly up until now.
 
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xiao_haozi

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You might want to hear from the more experienced people, but I would either rewire as suggested in the post I linked you too above there about the jrok, or just forget the rgb pots. Imo I would do that latter.

But I'm an idiot so my 2 cents are worth about the same as the lint in your pocket :loco:


Have you adjusted the pots before and NOT had this problem? I remember seeing you had some sort of power issue before.
 

K'99

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The link sent me to "page could not be found" page. Also, yes I have adjusted them a few times depending on what tv the system was on, but the picture was always crystal clear for the most part going through s-video.
 

Xian Xi

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On my JROK boards I always remove the onboard pots as they cause problems sometimes if you run external ones. I think the ones on the JROK boards are only 200-250ohm pots. Even if they are fully open they sometimes create noise on the RGB lines.
 

K'99

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Thanx for the help, but I just realized how ghetto rigged this thing really is. What looks like to be the encoder is completely covered with tape as are the wires leading to the power and the mobo underneath the pics I showed. I tightened the middle knob because it seemed to be a little loose which helped a little but now the screen gets really shaky when the image transitions from one to the next. I think I'm gonna just leave it alone for now and let someone come over and check it out if possible.
 

xiao_haozi

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Yeah just redo the wiring and wire right up the the video out jacks from the encoder. A little cleaning up can't hurt.
 

Hewitson

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On my JROK boards I always remove the onboard pots as they cause problems sometimes if you run external ones. I think the ones on the JROK boards are only 200-250ohm pots. Even if they are fully open they sometimes create noise on the RGB lines.
They do?

Can't say I've noticed, but I will remove mine anyway. Thanks for the tip.

xiao haozi: Not sure how you think pots are supposed to be wired.. 3 wires is normal - Input, Output, Ground.
 

xiao_haozi

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xiao haozi: Not sure how you think pots are supposed to be wired.. 3 wires is normal - Input, Output, Ground.

I've never grounded pots. Even at that...looked a jumble in the picture... worth rewiring either way probably just to make sure everything is all clean in there.
 

Xian Xi

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They do?

Can't say I've noticed, but I will remove mine anyway. Thanks for the tip.

Most noticeable on Taito boards. I was playing my Final Blow board when I first got it with my external JROK encoder and it worked perfectly. This is when I had a Neobitz in my Supergun. But when I swapped the Neobitz for a JROK 4.1 I had all this noise on the screen and I thought it was the sync. Only difference was that with the new 4.1 I put in I left the pots on at fully open. Once I removed them the noise disappeared. In fact when I removed them I just removed the dial/wiper instead of desoldering it since that way was a lot easier to do in my enclosure.

If I find the video I'll post the video of the noise.
 
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