Fixing up an MVS cover

xiao_haozi

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Have a 2slot that had some jacks mounted from the previous owner. Some of them I plan to use, but there are a few where I would like to cover them back up.

Plan to use automotive enamel + primer to paint up the cover and wondered what would be best to fill these holes first.

I was thinking of using bondo and just temporarily putting some cardboard on the back of the holes (inside of the cover) then put bondo over the holes and sand down both sides. Was going to paint the inside as well so would like to have the inner part of the hole nice as well.

Does anyone have any particularly good methods for doing this? I know the one obvious downside is that I couldn't get it powder coated, but I don't anticipate doing so on this one at the moment.
 

discgolfer72

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for plastic mvs covers use this as a permant repair (way better than bondo for plastic items)
you can get smaller tubes at your local auto parts store
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-1...dvanced&OVADID=24925648022&OVKWID=20785365522

for metal if the holes are somewat small use solder for a permant fix (just build up the solder untill the hole is filled and then sand it down )

for bolth metal and plastic mvs covers i would stay away from bondo as it will not stand up to the flexing when inserting and removing the carts and will either crack or just fall out
 

xiao_haozi

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for plastic mvs covers use this as a permant repair (way better than bondo for plastic items)
you can get smaller tubes at your local auto parts store
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-1...dvanced&OVADID=24925648022&OVKWID=20785365522

for metal if the holes are somewat small use solder for a permant fix (just build up the solder untill the hole is filled and then sand it down )

for bolth metal and plastic mvs covers i would stay away from bondo as it will not stand up to the flexing when inserting and removing the carts and will either crack or just fall out

Yeah it is metal. And some of the holes I would say are maybe close to 3/4" so would be pretty difficult to fill with solder (which was my first idea - try to figure out some kind of mesh wire to put over and solder over that and then sand down). But yeah, you think the bondo won't hold on those bigger holes?
 

discgolfer72

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3/4 of an inch is not that large for solder just tape a couple of paper clops(sand the crome off first ) to the back and then just add solder till its full and then sand (i have filled dime sized holes with solder without anything behind it )


as for bondo i have worked with it quite a bit and its pretty flakey to use when trying to fill a small hole in a thin section of metal (i do alot of auto body work and have repaired many arcade cabs using it) it could last forever but most likley it will fall right out as soon as you tweak the cover a little

if you do end up using bondo make shure to use a mesh backing on it so it has somthing to grab on to

i would say your best bet would be using solder . you probaly dont even need to use the paper clips just keep building up the solder and it should be fine
 

xiao_haozi

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3/4 of an inch is not that large for solder just tape a couple of paper clops(sand the crome off first ) to the back and then just add solder till its full and then sand (i have filled dime sized holes with solder without anything behind it )


as for bondo i have worked with it quite a bit and its pretty flakey to use when trying to fill a small hole in a thin section of metal (i do alot of auto body work and have repaired many arcade cabs using it) it could last forever but most likley it will fall right out as soon as you tweak the cover a little

if you do end up using bondo make shure to use a mesh backing on it so it has somthing to grab on to

i would say your best bet would be using solder tho you probaly dont even need to use the paper clips just keep building up the solder and it should be fine

Awesome! Will give this a shot. Thanks a million!!! :glee:
 

Xian Xi

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You should spot weld it on one side and bondo the other.

If your mobo is flexing when you insert and take out carts then your mobo isn't mounted properly or doesn't have balanced feet.

I wouldn't use solder as it will not bond properly unless you mean tin when using a propane torch.
 

xiao_haozi

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Yeah there isn't much flex at all that I can notice. Especially since it's a 2 slot and isnt a sandwich.

And unfortunately no way to spot weld it. Would love to be able to be.
 

Xian Xi

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In that case I would just plug the hole with a button plug like on an arcade CP.
 

xiao_haozi

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Yeah might not be a bad idea.... problem is one of the larger holes is on the top.
 

Drewmantrivia

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I would tack weld or spot weld a thin metal plate behind it and then level out the hole with bondo. There is no way you can fill that hole so that it will hold up without some kind of backing. Just find a small thing piece of metal striping that will not show from the backside of the plate. After painting and bondo-ing you will never know the difference.
 

Xian Xi

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I would tack weld or spot weld a thin metal plate behind it and then level out the hole with bondo. There is no way you can fill that hole so that it will hold up without some kind of backing. Just find a small thing piece of metal striping that will not show from the backside of the plate. After painting and bondo-ing you will never know the difference.

I said that dude, he can't spot weld.
 

xiao_haozi

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Don't think soldering over some fine wire mesh would work?

[edit: hmm yeah probably won't stick to the edges of the holes you mean, right?]
 

xiao_haozi

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Send it to me. I can do it for you. No charge just pay the shipping both ways.

Wow, helluva an offer dude! Thanks! Let me check out which holes I would be keeping and which ones I won't and I'll get back to you. Waiting for my encoder so I can decide where I'm gonna mount and then draw out the rest of the I/O stuff.
 

Xian Xi

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Don't think soldering over some fine wire mesh would work?

[edit: hmm yeah probably won't stick to the edges of the holes you mean, right?]

Not that it won't stick to the edges but it won't bond properly. Metal has to get to a certain temp to initiate a proper bond.


Send it to me. I can do it for you. No charge just pay the shipping both ways.


You're awesome dude for offering this.
 

Drewmantrivia

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just mark the one ones you want to fill and i'll tack weld a piece of steel behind the ones you want to cover. Circle them in permanent marker or something. I'll buff off most of the scorch from the weld and that should take off the marker too. I can do a quick sand blast too if you need.

you can pm me or hit me up on aim or msn if you want to talk about doing this. Just let me know.
 
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Drewmantrivia

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Its not a problem. I know what it is like to not to have the tools to do stuff like this so i don't mind helping out. Way i see it you guys here have been cool enough to give me advice to work on my boards n stuff so no problem in returning the favor when i can.
 

xiao_haozi

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just mark the one ones you want to fill and i'll tack weld a piece of steel behind the ones you want to cover. Circle them in permanent marker or something. I'll buff off most of the scorch from the weld and that should take off the marker too. I can do a quick sand blast too if you need.

Dude, that is awesome. Thanks so much!

It might be another week or so until I get the encoder and can pop it in there and see which ones I will be salvaging. I'll most definitely get back in touch with you then.

Awesome! :glee:

[Sent ya a PM ;) ]
 
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discgolfer72

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i have used standard pipe solder and my trusty old 40 watt iron to repair lock out bolt holes in coin doors and they are quite a bit thicker metal than a mvs cover just takes time to heat up the metal once the solder starts to melt it transfers heat pretty quick

just rough up the edge, clean it with iso ,slop some flux paste on it , and melt away
i just think bondo for such a small repair in a mvs plate is asking to fall out
 
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