MVS controller ports

FairlanePhantom

FairlanePhantom

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Have a set of 15 pin joystick sockets I'll be using on my supergun. Does anyone have a wire diagram for the correct wire connections? I saw one months ago, but can't find it anymore.
 
BIG BEAR

BIG BEAR

SHOCKbox Developer,
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Make sure you realize that the pinout is reversed on the solder side.
BB
 
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lavalyte

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FairlanePhantom said:
Have a set of 15 pin joystick sockets I'll be using on my supergun. Does anyone have a wire diagram for the correct wire connections? I saw one months ago, but can't find it anymore.
Click to expand...

Hi,

I have a simpler question. I'm attempting a supergun and I find soldering fiddly. Is there a way of crimping wires into the back of a 15 pin joystick port? As bought, they have thin tubes cut off at an angle to wire to... I'm sure there's an easier way to connect wires to them other than solder.

John.
 
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lavalyte

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FairlanePhantom said:
You can buy crimp or solder sockets. I saw both available and went for solder.
Click to expand...

Ahh, I only had solder available. Soldering it is then.
 
not sonic

not sonic

King of Typists,
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if youre having problems getting your solder to hold or if stuff seems to be making contact, well, youre not doing it right :tickled:

but, you can use hot glue as both an insulator and adhesive to make your connector last longer. (this is if you dont have heat shrink tubing.)


also, one of the D buttons is redundant (actually, one doesnt work!) i forget which one though...

theres enough room on the db15 for 7 buttons, start, select, joystick, gnd and +5v.
 
channelmaniac

channelmaniac

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Sounds like you bought the solder cup type connector. You need a small tip soldering iron and some small solder like .032 size to make it easier.

Put some solder in the cup on the connector, tin the wire, then heat up the solder on the cup and slide the wire in. If you practice this a few times you should be able to get the solder joint perfect with no 'peaking' of the solder when you pull the iron away.

"Peaking" = bad soldering. To fix that you would need to put a dab of liquid solder flux on the solder and heat the solder with the iron again to fix.

Oh, and be fast! You don't want to heat it up so much that the plastic around the pin starts to melt.

RJ
 
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lavalyte

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channelmaniac said:
Sounds like you bought the solder cup type connector. You need a small tip soldering iron and some small solder like .032 size to make it easier.

Put some solder in the cup on the connector, tin the wire, then heat up the solder on the cup and slide the wire in. If you practice this a few times you should be able to get the solder joint perfect with no 'peaking' of the solder when you pull the iron away.

"Peaking" = bad soldering. To fix that you would need to put a dab of liquid solder flux on the solder and heat the solder with the iron again to fix.

Oh, and be fast! You don't want to heat it up so much that the plastic around the pin starts to melt.

RJ
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.
 
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lavalyte

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I have a related question. I have both the classic and gamepad variants of the NG controllers. Some of the websites seem to say I need to connect up the +5V line for the gamepads to work. Is this correct?
 
Grinwing

Grinwing

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By classic, I am guessing that you mean the Old style sticks. These are not wired for the +5 so supplying it is not an issue. I believe you need it for the CD pad controllers and am unsure if they will work without it. Not sure about the new style (kidney bean shaped) sticks. Do a bit of searching as I know this has been discussed here on the boards.
 
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lavalyte

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channelmaniac said:
Sounds like you bought the solder cup type connector. You need a small tip soldering iron and some small solder like .032 size to make it easier.

Put some solder in the cup on the connector, tin the wire, then heat up the solder on the cup and slide the wire in. If you practice this a few times you should be able to get the solder joint perfect with no 'peaking' of the solder when you pull the iron away.

RJ
Click to expand...

I wired up one controller last night, thanks for the tips. It occurs to me that there may be a product out there... some sort of insulating glue or filler that I could put over the whole soldered area to add strength and stop potential movement of the wiring and shorting.

If there isn't, I hereby patent the idea :)
 
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

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lavalyte said:
I wired up one controller last night, thanks for the tips. It occurs to me that there may be a product out there... some sort of insulating glue or filler that I could put over the whole soldered area to add strength and stop potential movement of the wiring and shorting.

If there isn't, I hereby patent the idea :)
Click to expand...

If you have that problem then you need to learn how to solder. DB15s are pretty strong after you solder them, even when I soldered to flat ribbon pins it was still strong.

You can use hot glue if you want but it aint gonna be pretty either way. ;)
 
channelmaniac

channelmaniac

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lavalyte said:
I wired up one controller last night, thanks for the tips. It occurs to me that there may be a product out there... some sort of insulating glue or filler that I could put over the whole soldered area to add strength and stop potential movement of the wiring and shorting.

If there isn't, I hereby patent the idea :)
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's called a hot glue gun.

Oh, and it's already patented by someone else.
 
FairlanePhantom

FairlanePhantom

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Create a giant doorknob for brutes with heaping mitts. Goons will blow all their blood money for that kind of comfort in their homes.
 
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