30mm drill bit? update: sticks almost done! anyone have any metal finishing tips?

not sonic

not sonic

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hey how do you guys make the holes for your japan buttons? (metal)

the best i can find is either a 1 1/8" unibit or a similar knockout.

this is small by about 2cm. does it still work? should i just do it and then file em out?

stupid us system.:angry:
 
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Magnaflux

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Find a 30MM hole saw, I use them with drills. They pop into the collet like any other bit.

You can use a small drill bit to drill a pilot hole then follow up with the hole saw.
 
pixeljunkie

pixeljunkie

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I bought a 1 1/8" bit to drill on my CP...but I've been nervous. Whats the best way to go about drilling on metal? Should I sit the CP on top of some wood....does metal and sparks fly everywhere? Anyone want to walk a dummy through this?
 
zapatistab

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I use DEWALT Bi-Metal drill bits. They are listed with the correct sizes.
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/accessory_category_detail.asp?categoryID=885

For Snap-in buttons use the 29mm bit. I bought a 30mm bit and my snap-ins were loose. I buy them at Orchard Supply. Little pricey, becasue you also have to buy the drill bit attatchment. But worth it in the long run. Each bit runs about $9-$10.
D180034_1.gif
 
not sonic

not sonic

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Magnaflux said:
Find a 30MM hole saw, I use them with drills. They pop into the collet like any other bit.

You can use a small drill bit to drill a pilot hole then follow up with the hole saw.
Click to expand...

you can use a hole saw on metal? i thought they were only good for wood and stuff.

think a store like lowes or homedepot would have one?

gotta get a 24mm one too.


edit:

so 1 1/8" will work for em? any filing required? i bought the screw in ones (the stick im making isnt thick enuff for the snap-ins) think itll work?
 
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not sonic

not sonic

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also how are sticks mounted in japan?

i never see any hardware showing on the top but i cant imagine doing it any other way.
 
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Magnaflux

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not sonic said:
so 1 1/8" will work for em? any filing required? i bought the screw in ones (the stick im making isnt thick enuff for the snap-ins) think itll work?
Click to expand...

1-1/8" will be very close. It should work fine with some filing. I imagine a small curved fine bastard would do just fine.
 
zapatistab

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not sonic said:
also how are sticks mounted in japan?

i never see any hardware showing on the top but i cant imagine doing it any other way.
Click to expand...

If your talking about cabs...mounting brackets are welded underneith the control panel.

Custom sticks...people usually hide the hardware underneith artwork. But them again, there are tons of different ways people hide hardware.
 
not sonic

not sonic

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Magnaflux said:
1-1/8" will be very close. It should work fine with some filing. I imagine a small curved fine bastard would do just fine.
Click to expand...

youre a bastard!:mad:

thanks man.

zapatistab said:
If your talking about cabs...mounting brackets are welded underneith the control panel.

Custom sticks...people usually hide the hardware underneith artwork. But them again, there are tons of different ways people hide hardware.
Click to expand...

i think ill just go with hardware showing since im not using art (polished aluminum :buttrock: ) should look nice if i get some black bolts. hopefully the panel is thick enough to countersink.
 
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Tango

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Ive never tried using a drill as I was told not to since it *could* mess up the overlay, I opted for using a hole punch. Worked great but it was a real pain in the ass and honestly I hope to never have to do that again.
 
not sonic

not sonic

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yeah i wouldnt mind using a holepunch / knockout as a hole saw can get away from you and shred everything but the only ones i have access to are for electrical conduit, and theyre definitely not the right sizes.


i do have access to a drill press, and a bi-metal hole saw though. :tickled:
 
billd420

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setharnott said:
Ive never tried using a drill as I was told not to since it *could* mess up the overlay, I opted for using a hole punch. Worked great but it was a real pain in the ass and honestly I hope to never have to do that again.
Click to expand...

I know where to get 30mm and 24mm hole punch tips, but how the 'f do i use them??

-Bill
 
zapatistab

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setharnott said:
Ive never tried using a drill as I was told not to since it *could* mess up the overlay, I opted for using a hole punch. Worked great but it was a real pain in the ass and honestly I hope to never have to do that again.
Click to expand...

Yeah...when I used the bi-metal drill bit, I had to be super careful. But when using a panel without an overlay, it's a piece of cake.

When drilling into a control panel, it's best to mark it and remove the overlay with an exacto knife, then drill through the metal panel. Unless your messy, the rim of the button will cover any imperfections.
 
Tango

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heres the link for the hole punch...

http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine...ield&Msb=0&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards&Ntt=*deltron*

Its the only place that I found that stocked metric sizes in the states.

pretty easy to use actually, it just recquires alot of work and strength as the die starts to get dull after about 4 punches.

Basically though it is a hand operated tool using only a wrench around the driving bolt to basically force the die through the metal. Consists of the bolt, nut and die (cutter).
Just need to buy a 10mm pilot drill bit to put the main bolt of the punch through to guide it. I just measured out my holes with a sharpie on the underside of the panel, drilled my pilot holes and started cranking the thing down, it eventually pushed all the way through the metal and leaves you with a perfect hole. Since it is relying on the pilot hole there is no fear of anything slipping. I could not find a 10mm bit so I opted for the easier to find 9.745 and it worked out fine.

Important to note though that you should have the cutter on the top side (graphics) side on the control panel. That way any bending on the edge of the hole will be pointing downwards and not prevent your buttons from laying flush on the panel.

Its pretty easy but it is a pain in the ass. Took me like 3 hours to punch 6 holes in my
panel.
 
billd420

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Damn thats freakin awesome Seth!

I always thought that the "punches" went into a hydrolic press or something similar. I had no idea they were hand tightened.

-B
 
Tango

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I wish it was hydraulic :lolz:

still I guess it was easy enough to do though I still hope I dont have to ever do it again. hehe.
 
not sonic

not sonic

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punches are a pain though considering you still have to drill a sizeable hole for the bolt.

but theyre a lot easier to control vs a hole saw.


edit: damn they make dsub hole punches. thats crazy. so is the price. $250
 
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not sonic

not sonic

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almost done!

sticks.JPG


anyone have any tips on what to do with the metal? I want to keep it, but is there anything to do with it? like coat or polish or somethin? its aluminum.
 
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alok331

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That looks siiick, keep it up man

There are some places where you can send it in to get laser engraved, i've seen some work with laser engraving and it looks clean. Perhaps giving that a try
 
not sonic

not sonic

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thanks.

i have an idea for some vinyl overlays that i want to do.

im just concerned with the aluminum corroding or oxidizing from hand grease/sweat. i gotta do some kinda clear coat.
 
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Magnaflux

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not sonic said:
thanks.

i have an idea for some vinyl overlays that i want to do.

im just concerned with the aluminum corroding or oxidizing from hand grease/sweat. i gotta do some kinda clear coat.
Click to expand...


I don't think aluminum has that problem. :D

You wouldn't know what alloy that is would you?

Looks great, awesome work!
 
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