Wells Gardner K-7000 Help

Hey guys, not sure if anyone here can help with this or not. I have this "project" cab I have been messing with, the one we found tossed out with a dead monitor. Well, a few $ and a month later, after dealing with a "monitor repair guy" this is what I am stuck with:



I drew lines on the (dark) photo to show the actual size of the monitor. As you can see, about 33% of the screen, top portion, is so condensed down that its almost wrapping over the rest of the image. You can even see the power bars upside down, etc.

The entire chassis was rebuilt. All new caps, new ICs, new everything basically. The remote board also had all new pots (correct ohms from what I can tell) installed as well. It also has a brand new flyback transformer.

Adjusting pots on the remote control board do nothing. I can however get the image to stretch 100%, but it won't hold in that position (scrolling). Another member here mentioned that it might require adjusting the pots on the backside of the monitor/chassis, but there are none there except Horiz. control.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am sick of waiting around for this guy to figure out what is wrong, especially when I (as required) paid all parts up front.

Looks like a dry electro cap in the vertical output stage, a cap kit will fix that.
Gheck it out here
http://www.alsarcade.com/capkit.htm

Edit:Just realised that you have already been there, it is likely to do with the vert liniarity.height adjustments. Or a low 24 volts supply to the verical out stage on the monitor,

Thanks for the reply ttooddddyy, everyone said "ttooddddyy will know".

Problem is, what you said is greek to me so I can only pass that info on to the guy who worked on it thusfar. If anyone is in the Michigan area and can come over and help me drop me a PM PLEASE!

That voltage for the vert section is derived off of the flyback transformer... so you'll want to check the voltage to the vertical deflection section to see if it's correct. If it's not, check the B+ voltage off of the power supply then check the components that tap off of the flyback to get you that voltage for the vertical section. One of the components may be leaky or have changed values.

RJ

As channelmaniac said, a low +B voltage could cause this "postage stamp" image, lack of width and height is usualy a result of this.

See adjustment details in the manual
http://68.15.12.162/monitor_schematic_diagrams/wells-gardner/WG-K7000.pdf

Hmmm....

Dub...

My Pit Fighter game does have a k7000 monitor in it but it's the older kind with the controls built on the chassis and not on the remote board... Not sure if the boards are interchangeable. It depends on the CRT used.

Do you know what make/model the CRT itself is?

RJ

I already PMmed these pics to Channelmaniac, but in case any one else is interested on seeing some of the innards:











Channelmaniac suggested I try to adjust the pot behind the H.HOLD one so I am going to try that when I get home from work today.

Thanks so much to both of you for all the input and help thusfar. Hopefully I can get this thing running without having to deal with that guy again.

Ok so I am home now and tried adjusting that pot like ChannelManiac suggested. I will say the results are a bit more promising, however there is still errors.

The band of brightness (and cut off) has moved to the bottom of the picture now. I would say about 10% of the bottom of the screen is completely gone. The only way I can get it to show up is by scrunching the monitor down to an unusable position.

There is still some "fragmentation" at the top of the screen too, but at least nothing is upside down anymore.

I tried slowly adjusting that pot back and forth to see if that made any difference and it didn't really. Funny thing is, that pot has no "stopping" point to it. I can turn it and it will go past its max clockwise position and go back to the first counter clockwise position...if that makes sense...

Anyways, here are some updated pics of the result of turning the pot what seems to be clockwise 100%. Note that backing it off coutner clockwise at all doesn't make things better, only worse. What now....

Are all of the connex on that PCB as coroded as theone in that pic?

norton9478 said:

Are all of the connex on that PCB as coroded as theone in that pic?

Click to expand...

From what I can tell yes they all look like that.

To be honest I don't know if its corrosion or cleaning solution. I know when he took the chassis out it was filthy with dust, and he said he had to clean it a ton.

Anyway I can tell what it is?

Anyone have suggestions at this point? It's looking like I am going to have to pay to have the chassis rebuilt AGAIN.

I'm seriously about to count my losses and just put this cab back where I found it, on the curbside

Sorry to bump again, just had another question.

I picked up a rebuilt chassis from Arcadecup and it should be here in the next day or so.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170066058359

You think this should alleviate all my problems?

Also, any tips on installing beyond discharging?

norton9478 said:

Are all of the connex on that PCB as coroded as theone in that pic?

Click to expand...

Looks more like mould on the heat shrink over the connections.

ttooddddyy said:

Looks more like mould on the heat shrink over the connections.

Click to expand...

That chassis is history now Toddy. I have been going through all sorts of shit with the "repair guy" that worked on it. He took my ass for a ride.

I got sick of waiting and just bought the new chassis. I am going to attempt to put that new one in next week, looking for any tips since I have never done such an install

dubdubdub said:

That chassis is history now Toddy. I have been going through all sorts of shit with the "repair guy" that worked on it. He took my ass for a ride.

I got sick of waiting and just bought the new chassis. I am going to attempt to put that new one in next week, looking for any tips since I have never done such an install

Click to expand...

Its a straightforward excercise, be sure to discharge the CRT, that chassis should discharge itself afaik, but do it anyway- in case. It is good safety practace.

You may find greyscale issues (balance of R,G and B drives and cut offs), we will cross that bridge if and when we come to it.

Be sure to reconnect all grounds

So the chassis came today and after gathering up the balls to put it on, I successfully did so.

Yes Bill you were right. I was being a big fat pussy.

Anyways, everything looks great. I have a small issue with some white lines (horizontal) in the screen but hoping someone here can tell me if thats just a pot adjustment or not.

Adjust the screen control on the back of the flyback to fix those lines.

RJ

channelmaniac said:

Adjust the screen control on the back of the flyback to fix those lines.

RJ

Click to expand...

Worked perfect. Thanks again for everyones insight, I gotta go beast on this cab for a few now. It's been a long 2 months of waiting!

Picture is just blurry from me moving around: