OMG stupid control panel!!!

I recently moved and my arcade machine (mvs conversion) had all the wires from the control panel ripped out. my control panel comes off you see so when they moved it they had to take off the control panel. I have been slowly replacing wires but I wouldnt mind some helpfrom a pro. I also need a cap kit ne ways so kill 2 birds with one stone. Anyone know a repair guy in the toronto area?

I've been hearing this a lot from fellow Arcade buffs. Doing a cap replacement isn't hard at all and anyone with a little knowledge of soldering can complete the job with success . Take your time and always mark out where the negative stripe of the cap is facing before pulling out . Removing and replacing capacitors one by one is the easiest and this way you can't go wrong. You can find Capacitors in small or major electronics parts stores and I'm sure there is a electronics shop in any ones area or phone orders can be also done.
When it comes down to replacing the original Capacitor and the right voltages can't be found well that's OK as most older Caps don't have the same voltage readings as the new type now .
So remember this, If you are looking for example a 22uf 16v capacitor and there is only listed a 22uf 20 v one that's perfectly fine to use and even better in my books as I always go for the next voltage up with the main Caps . The voltages don't mean much in your choosing of caps it just means what voltage the capacitor can handle , as you could go from 1v to over 1000v they all do the same job just as long as you do not go under the Capacitors marked voltage and stick to the right capacitor code eg: 22uf . Remember this , the higher you go in voltage the bigger the cap gets in size so take that into consideration if you have any tight spots you need to fit one in. The Capacitors I normally buy for these types of boards are called TK-R series Electrolytic capacitor with operating temperatures of up to 105 deg
Before tackling any jobs like this and you are a novice I recommend you leave the board unplugged from power for about 2 days just to be sure ( don't want to get any nasty shocks when touching a charged capacitor , these are normally the larger type ones ) . Professional electronic technicians know how to safely discharge a capacitor but as I said before leaving the board powerless for about two days will be sufficient enough to dissipate any stored charge. Well I Hope I have inspired any novice to give it a go for themselves, if you do it carefully and stick to the right codes and correct cap placement on the board you will have a working Chassis that you repaired yourself.
But by all means if you feel your not up to it please leave it to a professional to complete the repair as not only can they do it in less time but also fix anything else that pops up in the process. Regards Electroman2006

OK well I have been reading about the cap kit a little and it doesn't seem so bad if you take the proper percussions. Actually there is a step by step guide on the net with pictures etc. I am still in the process of fixing the damage done by my movers in regards to the control panel. I got player 2 working fine but now I am getting confused. When I press p1 start it goes to the bios utility (cheat menu). p2 start works fine. what would be causing this?

I'd order a cap kit from an arcade shop...

Some Monitor PCB's are even Labeled Wrong! Cap kit instructions will let you nnow of it.


controll panel is eas since it's al A-B wireing.

soapy_jack23 said:

... I got player 2 working fine but now I am getting confused. When I press p1 start it goes to the bios utility (cheat menu). p2 start works fine. what would be causing this?

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If you're talking about the uni-bios, that menu is accessed when a,b,c, and p1 start are pressed at the same time. Sounds like your a,b,c are always on. There are three terminals on the button switches. One is ground, one is for always on unless the button is pressed, one is for always off unless the button is pressed (this is the one you want). Make sure they are not on the wrong terminal for your player one side a,b,c.

kb9wvv said:

If you're talking about the uni-bios, that menu is accessed when a,b,c, and p1 start are pressed at the same time. Sounds like your a,b,c are always on. There are three terminals on the button switches. One is ground, one is for always on unless the button is pressed, one is for always off unless the button is pressed (this is the one you want). Make sure they are not on the wrong terminal for your player one side a,b,c.

Click to expand...

It also does this for select+start, and I think also coin+start.