Problems: MVS Marquee Light/Width Coil *Fixed*

Ok, sorry for the large images...

The wires start here:
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http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/harrysbronzecoffin/DSCF0994.jpg


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Original Post:
Alright, I've got two problems I'm looking to fix.

1. Marquee Light -

My cabinet didn't come with a bulb, so I went and bought one (18" fit perfectly). Tried putting it in, but no luck. There was a switch at the top of my cab which I assumed was an option for me to keep the light on or off because it's inside the light casing, but turns out the switch is actually an on and off button for the entire cab! (ok, I thought this was kind of cool, but chances are most cabs probably have this and I'm just a dumbass for not noticing before) Anyway, the light doesn't work, there's some cut wires inside. Anyone know what wires should be connected to what up there? Should I just take pictures?

2. Width Coil -

This isn't so much of a problem, I just don't know how to adjust it. How do you mess with this thing to adjust the width of the screen? I tried pulling and pushing in and out lightly, but seems to be stuck in there, as well as turning it both ways (didn't try anything too hard, didn't want to break it). How do I use this?

Give me pics and I'll walk you through fixing it.

Thanks! I'll take some pics when I get out of work.

With the width coil you will need to use a non ferrous adjustment tool. If you use a normal metal screw driver it will get super hot and will have an effect on the width. Be carefull as the core is very fragile and easily broken.

Is there a special tool I can use to do this? Any household object that may be typically good to use?

HBCoffin said:

Is there a special tool I can use to do this? Any household object that may be typically good to use?

Click to expand...

It may be worth investing in a set like this.
http://www.tecratools.com/pages/datacom/alignment.html

The drive is usually hex, be warned if the core cracks it can be difficult to remove the broken pieces.

In the past I have whittled the end of a plastic knitting needle to the correct shape, it worked well.

The problem is that many of those coils used a variety of materials that were affected by the heat and you'll find it very difficult to turn most of those coils.

If you turn & hear a "crack" come from the coil then stop and live with the width the way it is. If you don't the next thing you'll be doing is looking around for a replacement coil.

RJ

Bump, pictures added!

Alright, I really need help guys. There are so many loose/cut wires, I don't know what's supposed to go where. Is there a way something could be broken (the ballast?) If that's even what it's called. I don't even think it's wired right though to begin with.

There's one green wire attatched to what I think is the ballast, and it's mounted to a screw, it then trails out and is cut off after that, so it leads to nowhere. There is also a nearby green wire that is mounted to screws to the speakers that was cut off that looks like it might be where the wire originally trailed to, but I don't know why this wire would go from the ballast to the speakers, but it is the only wire it looks remotely close to that was cut just the same.

There is a red wire that sparked when coming into contact with other wires, so I figure power is running through this wire. This wire is cut, and trails all the way down to the isolation transformer.

There are two black wires that are connected to the on/off button, I think one trails down to the isolation transformer, and the other goes to the fuse box. Both of these wires near the button are capped (I don't know how else to say this, they have those little plastic caps that hold the two wires together). One of these caps had an extra wire coming out of it that was cut (lead to nowhere, looked like it lead to part of the light fixture).

The light fixture itself has on one side a black and white wire, both cut and leading to nowhere, and on one side a black wire that's connected to this little black thing and goes into the light fixture, and a white wire that is cut and leads to nowhere.

Fixed! I just bought a whole new light at walmart and wired it pretty quick. Called up my friend whom I purchased the cab from, he made things quite simple. It was like $6.00 for the light, not too bad. I'll take some pics a little later.

As far as the Width Coil, e also said using a little wrench would be ok, just to wrap some tape around it, and try not to leave it in for long. I didn't even bother though, It's not that big of a deal, so think I'll just leave it alone for now. Plus don't have the right size right now.

Why are you spending so much time on that cab, when you know youre gonna sell it when you get a candy?

Haha, I really don't know. I'm eventually going to get a few candys, and they'll be the main source of my playtime. I guess this cab is just special to me because it's the first cabinet I bought so I don't think I'd ever sell it. I already put too much time into it to just sell it, and it's actually in pretty good condition. The only thing I really need to fix is the Width and Vert Positioning.

I think I asked this in an earlier post, but my vert positioning seems to leave me with nearly an inch of black bar at the bottom of my screen. I can expand the image to take up the entire screen, but of course this cuts off the top of the image. Is there any way to fix the Vertical Raster Pos. nob? It hardly has any effect, it moves very little when I turn it, so I assume it's slightly deffective. As far as the width coil, I bought a multi-tool at wal-mart (it was metal), and I was going to attempt adjusting it while the game was off, but none of the sizes it came with seemed to fit inside the coil (either too small or too big). I'll probably end up buying one of those TV kits.