Noise lines on TV with Hyper Neo Rev. 1

I got my Hyper Neo rev. 1 board all hooked up with my supergun. I spliced the necessary audio cable and added standard RCA jacks so I could connect it to a TV or stereo. The only problem I'm having is that I can't connect it directly to the TV I'm using without it adding distortion to the video anytime there is a noise. When I turn up the Hyper's volume knob even louder, it only gets worse. There is no volume level I can turn it to, no matter how low, where the distortion goes away completely. I'm not having this problem with any other boards with this supergun. In the meantime I am only using the Hyper's audio with external stereo equipment not connected to the TV, because it works fine this way.

I've also had a problem since the first time connecting it to my own stereo system at home (was at my parent's place before). I experminented with the Hyper's volume knob, and apparently if you turn it up too loud and then if the system makes a loud enough sound effect, it actually seems to cause a short circuit or something -- the game's audio crashes -- the volume goes way down, and becomes just a garbled mess of voices and sound effects presumably from the game.

I reckon I wired the positive and negative left and right speaker wires properly, since it was the only way that delivered an even passable left and right audio channel separation in the system's sound test menu, but it's not out of the question that I did something wrong.

Anyone else have a similar experience, or might be able to imagine what is going wrong?




And before anyone asks, yes the +5v line is connected. I have it built-in to my supergun, and a multimeter confirms it's delivering a live +5v connection to the Hyper.



I saved a lot of money, but I still yearn for a rev. 2 board.

What PSU are you using in your gun?

Those rev.1 boards draw some ridiculous current and need a serious PSU.
You're also best to use all of the +5v inputs on the board, to be safe.


Dunno if that's the problem but hey, I was born like this.

It's an SW300 with a +12V (1 A) and +5V (4 A) out. kpj gave it to me with my consolized MVS.

What do you mean by "all" of the +5 inputs? The ones on the jamma connector are all wired on my supergun, and I have the extra line (the one it comes with a cable for) connected. By the way, I tried disconnecting the extra +5v line, while it was turned on, and it makes no difference for the sound problem. As you're probably aware, Hyper rev. 1 seems to operate normally without the extra +5v line connected, but it's rumored to get damaged over time without it.

Thank you for the suggestions.

Did you use the same ground for both video and audio? Sometimes this is the case. Use different grounds for audio and video.

Neo Alec said:

It's an SW300 with a +12V (1 A) and +5V (4 A) out. kpj gave it to me with my consolized MVS.

What do you mean by "all" of the +5 inputs? The ones on the jamma connector are all wired on my supergun, and I have the extra line (the one it comes with a cable for) connected. By the way, I tried disconnecting the extra +5v line, while it was turned on, and it makes no difference for the sound problem. As you're probably aware, Hyper rev. 1 seems to operate normally without the extra +5v line connected, but it's rumored to get damaged over time without it.

Thank you for the suggestions.

Click to expand...

No problem matey.

You've got the power hookups right.
However, your PSU is woefully inadequate for that board....
Or even for a 6 slot....
I take it that the consolized unit you got was no more than a 2 or 4 slot?

A Neo MV-6F will draw between 5-6 amps at the 5v rail.
A rev. 1 Hyper64 will draw between 8-10 amps.


I am now fairly convinced that a hefty PSU will solve your problems.
It may not be as pretty as the SW300 though.

Xian Xi said:

Did you use the same ground for both video and audio? Sometimes this is the case. Use different grounds for audio and video.

Click to expand...

You may be right. However, I don't think the PSU has more than one ground. At any rate, using the cable that comes from the board itself, there wouldn't be able to control that. I would have to wire up the negative for the speakers separately, and that seems sort of excessive.

Gummy Bear said:

No problem matey.

You've got the power hookups right.
However, your PSU is woefully inadequate for that board....

I am now fairly convinced that a hefty PSU will solve your problems.
It may not be as pretty as the SW300 though.

Click to expand...

You may be right, but I'm inclined to think otherwise just because the system works perfectly otherwise. If you are correct, I'm not going to get another PSU just to fix that. I'd rather just keep using it as is, until I can manage to get a rev. 2 board for a reasonable price.

Yeah, the PSU is for a 2-slot.

Neo Alec said:

You may be right, but I'm inclined to think otherwise just because the system works perfectly otherwise. If you are correct, I'm not going to get another PSU just to fix that. I'd rather just keep using it as is

Click to expand...

Or until the sweet smell of burning plastic fills the air.

That PSU cannot safely power that board.

What kind of power supply does it need? If it needs 8, how come it's running okay with 5? I'm not rewiring my supergun just for this. It works fine now, except for the sound problem, which I'm not convinced is related. The problem with increasing the volume probably is, but the lines across the screen I still doubt. For now, I'll take my chances and keep the volume on the board low.

This is why I wanted a revision 2 board. The guy I bought it from said it was a revision 2, but when I got it, it was 1. It was still such a good deal, I didn't really complain. I still want a revision 2, and would sooner wait for that than get another power supply. At any rate, thanks for your help.

Neo Alec said:

What kind of power supply does it need? If it needs 8, how come it's running okay with 5? I'm not rewiring my supergun just for this. It works fine now, except for the sound problem, which I'm not convinced is related. The problem with increasing the volume probably is, but the lines across the screen I still doubt. For now, I'll take my chances and keep the volume on the board low.

This is why I wanted a revision 2 board. The guy I bought it from said it was a revision 2, but when I got it, it was 1. It was still such a good deal, I didn't really complain. I still want a revision 2, and would sooner wait for that than get another power supply. At any rate, thanks for your help.

Click to expand...

I'm suprised that it powered it at all...

You can use a PC AT PSU.....

You dont' need to rewire the supergun..... You can hack the PC PSU to a 5 pin Din connector and have it plug and play.....

But be sure to use the extra Power Harness for the Rev 1 PCB

norton9478 said:

I'm suprised that it powered it at all...

You can use a PC AT PSU.....

You dont' need to rewire the supergun..... You can hack the PC PSU to a 5 pin Din connector and have it plug and play.....

But be sure to use the extra Power Harness for the Rev 1 PCB

Click to expand...

I'd rather not use an ATX supply. It works, but I'll bet the extra power requirement is primarily for powering the speaker amp, which is why it wasn't working when I turned up the volume very high. As you can see, I do have the extra power harness connected, but to my underpowered supergun.

I've had the thing running for several hours at a time without a hitch. The supply just gets slightly warm, as normal.

This is a similar supply as used in a lot of homemade superguns, and it works fine for most boards, so I don't feel like upgrading just for the Hyper Neo rev. 1.

Neo Alec said:

I'd rather not use an ATX supply. It works, but I'll bet the extra power requirement is primarily for powering the speaker amp, which is why it wasn't working when I turned up the volume very high. As you can see, I do have the extra power harness connected, but to my underpowered supergun.

I've had the thing running for several hours at a time without a hitch. The supply just gets slightly warm, as normal.

This is a similar supply as used in a lot of homemade superguns, and it works fine for most boards, so I don't feel like upgrading just for the Hyper Neo rev. 1.

Click to expand...

Note: I prefer AT to ATX... They are just easier to manipulate.

I wouldn't use the sc300.... God knows what kind of damage tht that can cause in the long run.

norton9478 said:

Note: I prefer AT to ATX... They are just easier to manipulate.

I wouldn't use the sc300.... God knows what kind of damage tht that can cause in the long run.

Click to expand...

I don't care if it fries. It was $35 including shipping. A steal. The shipping was at least half of that. I want a rev. 2. Besides, I went outta my way to connect the extra power harness, so everything is going to be okay from now on!

By the way folks, I know I'm a huge idiot for not considering the amperage requirement of the Hyper Neo when building the supergun. It's a wonder my gun even works, considering. I guess I was just so insistent about getting the Hyper to work with the existing setup, I had to try and make do when I realized I'd been sent a revision 1 instead.

I still need to buy another of the same PSU, so if they make another one that is the same and slightly higher amps, I may consider it, but I'm not buying something huge just for the rev. 1. I'd sooner wait on a rev 2. I'm still holding out for it.

Well, I got a full-size arcade power supply now. It works great with the boards that didn't work with the SW300. But it didn't help with the noise lines issue at all on the Hyper. I still have this problem. I don't think there's any fix. I think more people would know about this if they had a Rev 1 connected to a TV like I do.

Neo Alec said:

Well, I got a full-size arcade power supply now. It works great with the boards that didn't work with the SW300. But it didn't help with the noise lines issue at all on the Hyper. I still have this problem. I don't think there's any fix. I think more people would know about this if they had a Rev 1 connected to a TV like I do.

Click to expand...

Have you confirmed that you wired the stereo RCAs right?

I may need help with this.

I've confirmed that the Hyper sound works fine on a TV if you don't connect the negative speaker lines coming off the board (just the positive). I've found this to also be true with a number of my other arcade boards, as I've become more experienced with them (that's why I decided to try it now with the Hyper). However, the video from the supergun also has to be connected to the TV, or the sound will start buzzing.

Also, having the negative disconnected may work fine for the TV, but it does not work for an independent audio system such as a stereo receiver.

I've confirmed this to be true on a number of TV's. It's the same story. Maybe there's someone who knows a lot about the positive and negative lines on audio systems who can help who will figure out I'm just being an idiot here.

My theory is this has something to do with the way I've got my supergun wired up. I've got the left and right RCA jacks on my supergun wired up for MVS stereo sound -- the negatives on the jacks are hooked up to the main electrical negative coming from the power supply. Maybe having that all hooked together is creating some bleed or crossover or something. The way I've got it wired up is probably wrong. But it does work fine this way for mono and stereo games that use the jamma connector for audio out. It's the boards that have their own separate audio output (Konami stereo games or the Hyper, for example) that have the problem.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Try this, if you soldered both left and right channels the same way on the RCAs try switching them around and see what happens.

on any attenuated circuit.....

THE NEGATIVE SPEAKER OUTPUT SHOULD NOT BE CONNECTED TO ANYTHING....


especially ground...




What boards have you used the supergun with before????

norton9478 said:

on any attenuated circuit.....

THE NEGATIVE SPEAKER OUTPUT SHOULD NOT BE CONNECTED TO ANYTHING....


especially ground...




What boards have you used the supergun with before????

Click to expand...

Interesting, so when I build my supergun I shouldnt connect the negative to the speaker rca panel mounts?

Xian Xi said:

Try this, if you soldered both left and right channels the same way on the RCAs try switching them around and see what happens.

Click to expand...

I don't understand. Switch the right and left? I don't see what difference it makes. At any rate, I'm not sure if the negative being connected in the supergun makes a difference for the external audio connections I'm talking about anyway.

norton9478 said:

on any attenuated circuit.....

THE NEGATIVE SPEAKER OUTPUT SHOULD NOT BE CONNECTED TO ANYTHING....


especially ground...

Click to expand...

I don't have any attenuation built in my supergun. Without the negative connected, will it still work with everything though? In my experience, it may not.

norton9478 said:

What boards have you used the supergun with before????

Click to expand...

http://www.vaps.org/members/member_detail.php?member_id=387828

Neo Alec said:

I don't understand. Switch the right and left? I don't see what difference it makes. At any rate, I'm not sure if the negative being connected in the supergun makes a difference for the external audio connections I'm talking about anyway.

Click to expand...

What I meant was switch around the + and - on the RCAs.

In home audio setups, be it TVs or stereo receivers, the negative is always ground so you should never use the jamma speaker- connection, it doesn't matter if there's an attenuation circuit or not. With stereo MVS boards (the multi-slots) the pin that is sp- under jamma will be a sp+ but in this case the supergun should have a mono/stereo switch. Basically you should always connect ground and nothing else to the negative of your home setups.

MKL said:

In home audio setups, be it TVs or stereo receivers, the negative is always ground so you should never use the jamma speaker- connection, it doesn't matter if there's an attenuation circuit or not. With stereo MVS boards (the multi-slots) the pin that is sp- under jamma will be a sp+ but in this case the supergun should have a mono/stereo switch. Basically you should always connect ground and nothing else to the negative of your home setups.

Click to expand...

That's the information I was looking for. Thanks norton and MKL.

I guess in the case of my stereo sub harnesses on the boards I'll have to settle for leaving the negative hooked up to nothing. It works on the TV that way as long as the video from the supergun is connected.

As for the supergun, I still don't see why I would need a stereo switch. I have it wired with the L and R MVS speaker positive on the two jacks, and mono boards work perfectly fine that way too.

A cool trick is to attenuate the [-] speaker terminal...

In most games, the attenuated [-]speaker output will mimic the attenuated [+]speaker output.

In some games, it will produce a pseudo stereo effect that gets picked up by the dolby surround and has some wired 3D effects....

that mobo looks familiar lol, I think I sold you it alec, lol