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Razoola
03-29-2006, 12:19 PM
Hi, I have done a guide to swap CPS3 batteries based an old one on from the net which has long since gone. As I have never swapped out CPS3 batteries myself I wonder if people that have can take a look through it to confirm there are no mistakes. The guide can be found at http://www.cps2shock.com/cps3.

Raz

Witchboard
03-29-2006, 01:43 PM
I can't confirm anything, but that's a nice guide.

meanbean
03-29-2006, 01:51 PM
Razoola, the guide is correct. Perhaps, you can give credit to David Baltes in your guide somewhere. He was the author of the original CPS3 battery replacement guide that yours is based on.

Razoola
03-29-2006, 02:22 PM
Razoola, the guide is correct. Perhaps, you can give credit to David Baltes in your guide somewhere. He was the author of the original CPS3 battery replacement guide that yours is based on.

I have just done that now (top and bottom of FAQ). I have also updated the URL, its now http://www.cps2shock.com/cps3.

MKL
03-29-2006, 05:31 PM
Not a mistake by any means but why solder the negative of the helper battery in such a small point that is also so close to the infamous black wire when you have at disposal other more suitable ground points in less delicate areas of the PCB? For instance:

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5296/cps3battery9yl.jpg

Razoola
03-29-2006, 10:54 PM
Not a mistake by any means but why solder the negative of the helper battery in such a small point that is also so close to the infamous black wire when you have at disposal other more suitable ground points in less delicate areas of the PCB? For instance:

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5296/cps3battery9yl.jpg

That looks like a good idea, I will update the FAQ later today. Is it ok to use that picture also?

Raz

MKL
03-30-2006, 07:43 AM
yes, sure.

Razoola
03-30-2006, 08:15 AM
Updated the FAQ to use the solder point MKL mentions. I must say it does make sence and makes the job that little bit easier.

Raz

MKL
03-30-2006, 09:22 AM
And why not ground that small daughterboard like this, so you can remove the black wire altogether and properly solder the new battery:

http://img60.imageshack.us/img60/4584/cps3wire5if.jpg

Spike Spiegel
03-30-2006, 11:14 AM
Raz, the day you figure out the suicide to cps3 is the day I worship you as my new god. No bullshit, I've got a CPS3 game that's dead in the hopes that one day you will save it.... :P

Razoola
03-30-2006, 02:01 PM
And why not ground that small daughterboard like this, so you can remove the black wire altogether and properly solder the new battery:

http://img60.imageshack.us/img60/4584/cps3wire5if.jpg

Are you 100% sure that will work?

Raz

Stellarola
03-30-2006, 02:25 PM
Raz, the day you figure out the suicide to cps3 is the day I worship you as my new god. No bullshit, I've got a CPS3 game that's dead in the hopes that one day you will save it.... :P


Yea, Raz


I agree with Spike here. I'm willing to donate to find a cure for the untimely deaths of these cps3 carts. Salvation is near? :chimp:

Razoola
03-30-2006, 02:32 PM
I got a CPS3 already (no CD jojos) so I don't need any donation. I simply don't have time to start looking at it at present.

Raz

MKL
03-30-2006, 03:03 PM
Are you 100% sure that will work?

Raz

If you mean if I tried this myself no, I've never worked on a CPS3 but it's evident from the pics that the daughter PCB is getting power from the main PCB, so if you ground the daughterboard to some other point on the mobo you may well remove the other ground wire. Maybe Meanbean wants to try this since he often swaps batteries?

Razoola
04-05-2006, 12:14 AM
hmmm, what is the correct battery voltage to use, 3.6v or 3v for CPS3?

Raz

DaemoN
04-05-2006, 07:23 AM
I've repeated this countless times across various forums, but noone pays attention.

I had a Street Fighter 3 2nd Impact cart with that stupid extra black wire.

I soldered another one from the daughter board to another ground spot on the board.

Powered the game, removed one battery, soldered another, bang. Works fine.

Instead of powering the game on, you can use a backup battery. Works the same.

Razoola
04-05-2006, 08:20 AM
I've repeated this countless times across various forums, but noone pays attention.

I had a Street Fighter 3 2nd Impact cart with that stupid extra black wire.

I soldered another one from the daughter board to another ground spot on the board.

Powered the game, removed one battery, soldered another, bang. Works fine.

Instead of powering the game on, you can use a backup battery. Works the same.

Ok, I still need to know the correct battery voltage, do you know? 3v or 3.6v?

Raz

DaemoN
04-05-2006, 08:41 AM
I've found both kinds inside CPS3 carts. My SF3 2nd Impact had a 3V battery, which I replaced with a 3,6V one.

ni-ten
04-06-2006, 04:06 PM
I changed batteries on two 3s boards.
Asia had 3,6v and the jap had a 3.0v.

Neo Gold
10-31-2007, 07:25 PM
Ok, I still need to know the correct battery voltage, do you know? 3v or 3.6v?

Raz
Hello raz...is the issue with 3v & 3.6v lithium batt critical?..surley 3.6 will suffice?.
Does the jpn sec cart HAVE to have the required 3v?...why did they use the 3.6 in the asia & US sec's?.
Any further info will be greatly appreciated ...as the day after tomorrow i recieve an JPN SF3.3 kit...& the previous owner does not know when the batt was replaced!!...it originaly came from G-front a few months ago...& i was advised that they have them all replaced prior to selling them on.(i cannot take that chance tho).
Thanks for your time raz...& btw the guide is spot on & very clear.

massimiliano
03-24-2008, 04:01 PM
Hi,

I'm worried about my cps3 games, and I found this:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/dangspot/Parts.html

basically he say you can take away the old battery while the game is running.

Following those step should lead to a clean job, but... what do you think guys?
The black wire could create more or less problems?

Scott
03-27-2008, 09:42 PM
Hi,

I'm worried about my cps3 games, and I found this:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/dangspot/Parts.html

basically he say you can take away the old battery while the game is running.

Following those step should lead to a clean job, but... what do you think guys?
The black wire could create more or less problems?

\If you have a multimeter, just find another spot connected to the negative terminal of the battery, and solder a wire from there to a point connected to the other end of the black wire. You still need to perform the swap with either a helper battery or with the game running, but you don't have to worry about the stupid black wire anymore - you can just remove it. Just DON'T get rid of the black wire until you have a new one soldered in. I tried it on a New Generation I had, and it worked fine.

massimiliano
03-28-2008, 05:47 AM
\If you have a multimeter, just find another spot connected to the negative terminal of the battery, and solder a wire from there to a point connected to the other end of the black wire. You still need to perform the swap with either a helper battery or with the game running, but you don't have to worry about the stupid black wire anymore - you can just remove it. Just DON'T get rid of the black wire until you have a new one soldered in. I tried it on a New Generation I had, and it worked fine.

Good this is good to take care of that damn black wire!
Great, so with a game running and a UPS, you can avoid the risk of leave the cart without power!

It seems to me more reliable than place a second battery and then swap.

Do someone think it's more risky proceed that way?

Scott
03-28-2008, 11:28 PM
Good this is good to take care of that damn black wire!
Great, so with a game running and a UPS, you can avoid the risk of leave the cart without power!

It seems to me more reliable than place a second battery and then swap.

Do someone think it's more risky proceed that way?
I've never used the helper battery method - I always swapped it with the power on. However, make absolutely sure that you have the new wire in the proper place before removing the old battery/black wire. If you have the wrong connections, your game is dead, even with the power on. Also, I've only rerouted the wire on my NG once. You may wanna double check with Bill, as he's moved the wire on a few carts. I'll tell you what though...I tried to change the battery on a Warzard once. I didn't know you could move the wire, and obviously I couldn't unsolder the negative side of the old battery without likewise disconnecting the wire. Instead, I tried cutting the battery lead with a dremel. BIG MISTAKE! I slipped up and cut into the damn battery, and all the acid leaked into my freakin' face. You do not want this to happen to you!!!!!!

massimiliano
05-07-2008, 05:35 PM
Ok,

I decided to proceed, and today I did the battery change on 4 CPS3, 2 of them with the infamous black wire.

Thanks to Razoola for the guide and MKL for his posts about the possible ground spot for the second "black wire".
So I tried this "hybrid" mode (and btw this was my first attempt ever!)
A note: as I asked about the running-game method, I must admit that I finally choose to proceed with the helper battery one just for one reason: I don't think it's easy to work around the cart while mounted, IMHO.

Here some pic of the journey, maybe this will help people as the spirit of the thread, - hope I'm not hijacking anything :P

Probably the worst part, unscrew the bolt without the proper tool!

http://www.netpacket.it/cps3/opening.jpg

Here the helper battery, I soldered extension cables and protected the joint/copper connectors with thermo-sheath (nice trick!)

http://www.netpacket.it/cps3/helper.jpg

The second "black wire", following the ground spots advised by MKL:

http://www.netpacket.it/cps3/trio.jpg

Here a detail of the common ground for both battery&black wire n.2:

http://www.netpacket.it/cps3/detail.jpg

JoJo and 3dStrike were easier indeeds:

http://www.netpacket.it/cps3/classic.jpg

After some CPS2 swap too, here the result of the day:

http://www.netpacket.it/cps3/family.jpg

not without some surprise, still functional of course!

http://www.netpacket.it/cps3/incredible.jpg

Thanks again as for at least 6 years I will not worry about my precious CPS3s!!!

(^_^)

Dinodoedoe
05-07-2008, 07:18 PM
Bravo, nice work. I love pictures. The internets needs more walk through with photos.

N80G80
05-07-2008, 11:33 PM
Ive been swapping cps3 batteries for a while now..i must say i prefer doing them while the game is running....but congrats on your success!!

shaktazuki
06-19-2009, 11:56 AM
Nevermind.

JazzyNYC
06-25-2009, 11:12 AM
Just decided to Try my hand at replacing the battery of my New generation cart.

Lo and behold it looks like someone already modded the PCB with a type of holder.

Here's one side....http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t51/ndemus/P1000232.jpg

The other side of the battery...
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t51/ndemus/P1000233.jpg

And the back with the 'infamous' black wire intact...
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t51/ndemus/P1000234.jpg

Has anybody seen or done this mod?? I fiddled around with the battery slightly to see if it wiggled or moved around easily but found that it was pretty secure. Even more so with the cart intact due to its design. Whatever the case is, it seems likw whoever modded it knew what they were doing, as the solder points are clean as day.

Best part is, now All I have to do to change the battery is power on, and swap out. No more work required.

metallizer
06-25-2009, 11:31 AM
?

sure these helper pads arenīt welded on the battery.

cosī thatīs what it looks like.

JazzyNYC
06-25-2009, 11:59 AM
Holy crap. Your right. Looks like back to the drawing board for me.

shaktazuki
06-25-2009, 12:16 PM
Hey, any 1/2 AA 3.0-3.6v lithium battery will do, right?

Scott
06-25-2009, 06:51 PM
Anyone out there working on a fix for this suicide-battery bullshit? I had a freakin battery leak on my 2nd Impact cart. Only 2 years old too. :confused:

shaktazuki
06-25-2009, 11:54 PM
Here's what I did.

My CPS3 system arrived today. I took it to a guy who deals with PCBs for a living. He poked a hole in the security cart a little off the side of the existing backup battery. He soldered a wire to each end of the battery and pushed them through the hole. He then soldered a 3v lithium photo battery to the wires, outside of the security cart, so that there are now two batteries in parallel feeding the circuitry inside.

Seems pretty easy. Now, when I want to change the battery in a few years or whatever, I have only to desolder the battery outside the security cart when the system is running and solder a new battery to the wires.

DecepticonZero
06-26-2009, 12:05 AM
What are you going to do when the battery inside the cart starts leaking?

shaktazuki
06-26-2009, 12:38 AM
Will it? Do they always leak, or leak with high probability? It can be safely removed now, I suppose... the problem is it's welded to the steel prongs attached to the security cart. Not so easy to remove.

My battery looked the same as the pics above except there were no wires on the back of my security PCB.

darkgrue
06-26-2009, 01:21 AM
Just decided to Try my hand at replacing the battery of my New generation cart.

Lo and behold it looks like someone already modded the PCB with a type of holder.

That's not a mod, that's a factory battery. Those tabs on the ends of the battery are welded on by the manufacturer and end in solder pins (which is what's attached to the board).

There are usually about four standard packaging forms for batteries: no terminals at all (like a ordinary flashlight battery, say), solder pins (like the cart uses), 3-pin tabs (one end has a single pin, the other end has two pins slightly apart to indicate polarity), and just plain solder tabs. For this particular application, you want to make sure you order the kind that have solder pins (and not the 3-pin).


Best part is, now All I have to do to change the battery is power on, and swap out. No more work required.

Sorry, that's not the case. Those tabs don't come off, and you won't be able to put them on a new battery (soldering tabs to batteries is... ifffy).

massimiliano
06-26-2009, 03:42 AM
Will it? Do they always leak, or leak with high probability? It can be safely removed now, I suppose... the problem is it's welded to the steel prongs attached to the security cart. Not so easy to remove.

My battery looked the same as the pics above except there were no wires on the back of my security PCB.


Batteries always leak, it's just matter of "when".
remove a battery whit the helper one in parallel is good, until you have first run security carts.

The "infamous" black wire on late carts is placed just to avoid that, so in case you'll face one of them, you'll need a new approach.

Anyway, the steel prongs you say are just part of the battery, you have to desolder them from the board in order to remove the whole (not meant to be separated from the battery cylinder...never try to solder directly the battery plate, it can explode!)
Fresh batteries looks like the violet ones here:

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2513453&postcount=25

Edit:

you can find a couple of orange batt of yours removed too.

darkgrue
06-26-2009, 10:16 PM
Just finished the battery replacement on my Jojo's this afternoon. Fortunately, it was successful.

I had a coworker who is pretty experienced with microprocessor design and electronics repair do it for me as a personal favor, as my hands are not steady enough to do the soldering. The soldering does not require excessive prescision, but it does require good control of heat, and being able to keep the point on-target.

We used the helper battery method, although modified it a bit by connecting the helper battery in line a polarized JST connector that was attached to the solder points on the board. Rather than desolder the helper battery, we merely disconnected it. The connector nestles nicely behind the board and fits in the plastic enclosure without modification.

I can see why people don't like performing this service. It's nervewracking. Having read what little is known about the anti-tamper features of the board, there are too many ways to make a mistake. There are ample opportunities to short the board, or overheat a connection and have the helper battery pop off. Put the batteries in reverse-polarity, static discharge, etc. Any mistake results in a blank board, and your setup is a boat anchor. Sure, you might find another cart, but more likely, you're buying an entirely new set (I've never seen CPS3 software offered apart from a board and drive set - which must mean loose, working carts are pretty uncommon).

The encryption method being broken was beneficial to the MAME scene, but its not much of a breakthrough for CPS3 owners. There's a huge gap between understanding how the software was encrypted on the CD's, and being able to reinitialize the security cart.

It's entirely possible to reverse-engineer it - with considerable effort, and possibly requiring some rather esoteric equipment and specialized knowledge. It's certainly possible that someone who has the ability also has access to logic and bus analyzers. The biggest problem is that even if the person(s) working on this had a working board set or two, chances are they're going to fry MANY.

It'd also be a labor of love. CPS3 owners aren't likely to be able to support actual development costs of a solution. No one's going to pay $2000 a pop to repair a board set maybe worth $200-400. Really, it'd require someone with the necessary equipment and skills to do it for the challenge. If CPS3 owners can't do this for on the order of the cost of parts, I suspect there's no market (I suspect is a significant reason this has never been done).

That being said, as a CPS3 board owner, I sure hope someone does it. :D

KaPH33n
02-20-2010, 06:52 AM
Fantastic thread. I have a SF3:3s that I need to change out the battery on. I am thinking about doing a keystone battery holder mod on it so that changing the battery out in the future will be easy to do while powered on. I plan on using a helper battery to install the keystone retainer and then removing it once everything is mounted properly.

I'm a little worried that I won't figure out a good way to mount the thing to the security cartridge. May have to dremel away a hole, which I'd hate to do, but is worth it to me.

yzrider926
02-26-2010, 01:58 PM
Would this battery be suitable to act as a helper battery? http://www.atbatt.com/product/21208.asp

it has the 3.6v and is a full size AA battery instead of the 1/2AA size on the CPS3 carts.

thegreathopper
05-17-2010, 11:51 AM
Would this battery be suitable to act as a helper battery? http://www.atbatt.com/product/21208.asp

it has the 3.6v and is a full size AA battery instead of the 1/2AA size on the CPS3 carts.

Yes it would be suitable.

mainman
05-17-2010, 07:24 PM
Ive been swapping cps3 batteries for a while now..i must say i prefer doing them while the game is running....but congrats on your success!!

Its the only safe way as the cart can detect voltage fluctuations why on battery power and can kill itself.

sonofx51
05-23-2010, 05:50 PM
Its the only safe way as the cart can detect voltage fluctuations why on battery power and can kill itself.

Are you saying the "safest" way for the battery to be swapped out is when the it is powered up? That sounds a little scary and kinda awkward to do.

mainman
05-23-2010, 06:49 PM
Are you saying the "safest" way for the battery to be swapped out is when the it is powered up? That sounds a little scary and kinda awkward to do.

No when on mobo power the battery is not connected to the circuit. As far as trying to change a battery on a powered up pcb, if your not comfortable around electronic devices then yes it can be a scary proposition to a novice. When I say safest I am speaking from the point of view of the cart not dying 2 weeks later as a result of its security design not from the physically changing the battery perspective.

But since the CPU on the cart can detect tampering through substantial voltage fluctuations such as a spike when using helper batteries and the slight voltage difference between the old and new battery it has a high 80 percent chance of EVENTUALLY killing itself so the power up method is the best way to go. Basically I am guessing it has a comparator circuit on the battery when the game is off and the battery is in use, so if you change the battery when the game is on and the battery is off your cart stands greater chance of not dying two weeks after you changed the battery.

sonofx51
05-23-2010, 06:57 PM
No when on mobo power the battery is not connected to the circuit. As far as trying to change a battery on a powered up pcb, if your not comfortable around electronic devices then yes it can be a scary proposition to a novice. When I say safest I am speaking from the point of view of the cart not dying 2 weeks later as a result of its security design not from the physically changing the battery perspective.

But since the CPU on the cart can detect tampering through substantial voltage fluctuations such as a spike when using helper batteries and the slight voltage difference between the old and new battery it has a high 80 percent chance of EVENTUALLY killing itself so the power up method is the best way to go. Basically I am guessing it has a comparator circuit on the battery when the game is off and the battery is in use, so if you change the battery when the game is on and the battery is off your cart stands greater chance of not dying two weeks after you changed the battery.



Wow I never knew that, thank you for the information.

Razoola
05-23-2010, 11:50 PM
No when on mobo power the battery is not connected to the circuit. As far as trying to change a battery on a powered up pcb, if your not comfortable around electronic devices then yes it can be a scary proposition to a novice. When I say safest I am speaking from the point of view of the cart not dying 2 weeks later as a result of its security design not from the physically changing the battery perspective.

But since the CPU on the cart can detect tampering through substantial voltage fluctuations such as a spike when using helper batteries and the slight voltage difference between the old and new battery it has a high 80 percent chance of EVENTUALLY killing itself so the power up method is the best way to go. Basically I am guessing it has a comparator circuit on the battery when the game is off and the battery is in use, so if you change the battery when the game is on and the battery is off your cart stands greater chance of not dying two weeks after you changed the battery.

Has this been confirmed? I ask because these kind of myths seem to come from nowhere and somehow stay around. Take CPS2 for example, people always said removing the battery will instantly kill the game. It was not until I actually purposely removed a battery to kill a board that the myth was put to bed. I'm not saying your wrong and I understand that removing the battery from CPS3 will kill the cart instantly unlike CPS2. I just question if there is a security circuit to check voltage that will kick in a week or so after the change. For me I would more guess the weak link in CPS3 is while connecting the cart to the mobo, we all know how MVS / AES games can be in this area so can't a improperly inserted CPS3 cart kill it and be a reason instead?

mainman
05-24-2010, 12:58 AM
Has this been confirmed? I ask because these kind of myths seem to come from nowhere and somehow stay around. Take CPS2 for example, people always said removing the battery will instantly kill the game. It was not until I actually purposely removed a battery to kill a board that the myth was put to bed. I'm not saying your wrong and I understand that removing the battery from CPS3 will kill the cart instantly unlike CPS2. I just question if there is a security circuit to check voltage that will kick in a week or so after the change. For me I would more guess the weak link in CPS3 is while connecting the cart to the mobo, we all know how MVS / AES games can be in this area so can't a improperly inserted CPS3 cart kill it and be a reason instead?


No raz this is from personal experience. Every cps3 battery ( 4 so far ) change I have attempted using the helper battery method has consistently died two weeks after the change like clock work, they worked fine past a week after the change then just died. I know how to solder so it was not a cold solder joint problem. To date the three I have changed with the mobo on are still going

What else could have killed it if it was not meant to self destruct in just such a situation as someone trying to sustain the encryption through unauthorized means. But yes it is a educated guess since I don't have the data sheet of the sh-2 which has to be custom

massimiliano
05-24-2010, 07:33 AM
????

My 4 CPS3 carts are still kicking today, after the battery swap procedure mentioned...2 year ago already.

:scratch:

Could it be instead a problem of batteries? (I.E. only certain types/brand?)

Dion
05-24-2010, 09:53 AM
I changed all of mine last year via power-on method. The only one that died was my third strike two weeks later. So it seems the method doesn't really matter though the power-on method is easier for sure.

MKL
05-24-2010, 09:55 AM
For me I would more guess the weak link in CPS3 is while connecting the cart to the mobo, we all know how MVS / AES games can be in this area so can't a improperly inserted CPS3 cart kill it and be a reason instead?

Not sure what you mean with improperly insterted.

The edge connector on CPS3 is keyed so you can't insert carts the wrong way as you can do with MVS carts (which however are designed so that power and ground pins will match anyhow).

Cart pins not aligned exactly with mobo pins and shorting next pins? (unlikely IMO)

Cart pins not making good contact with mobo pins (due to dirty contacts or cart wiggling)? This is actually a very common thing with cart-based systems but it would only be a possible problem with the "battery swap while game is on" method. That's indeed quite risky and I would never do it without the help of an additional power connection between mobo and cart (wires *soldered* from 5v/gnd on mobo to 5v/gnd on cart). But I don't see how this could cause problems to a cart where the battery has already been replaced successfully.

Sometimes people say that a cart has died but the battery is still good. I wonder if they also check whether or not the relevant power pin on the CPU is getting power. I mean, the diode in between the positive lead of the battery and the CPU could get faulty...

Razoola
05-24-2010, 10:49 AM
What I was suggesting is that maybe its somehow possible that if you don't insert the cart dead straight then some pins on the edge connector would connect while others are not. This situation then results in the cart dying. It seems very strange to me that there is a 2 week period.

Would it be possible to be a battery make issue and it overloading something on the carts?

Dion
05-24-2010, 06:43 PM
Would it be possible to be a battery make issue and it overloading something on the carts?

It might affect certain cart revisions. Most carts come with 3V batteries factory. Most people replace them with the same battery as the CPS2 batteries which is 3.6V. Maybe the later revision of the security cart is more sensitive to the voltage. I used a 3.6V on my 3S and it died a week or so later. The 3S cart is also the only one I know of that has a black screen when it dies as opposed to the scrambled screen.

BIGTIME
08-14-2010, 02:03 PM
One quick question fellas. I'm assuming that once the suicide battery dies in the cart and sits for an extended period of time it loses its data like a cps2 board correct?

KaPH33n
08-14-2010, 09:19 PM
google cps3 battery.

in short: cps3 has a more advanced security scheme than cps2, if the voltage is removed for ANY period of time, the cart is dead.

Scott
08-14-2010, 11:54 PM
So is there any possibility of ever fixing this issue permanently? I killed my last 3rd Strike a few months ago attempting a battery swap. In this case, I used the power-on method which has worked for me before. It worked this time too...for a few days then all of the sudden the game just stopped working. I had the same thing happen with a mean-bean modded cart. It was fine one day, then later that day it was dead. Same battery and all, and it still read 3 volts. At this rate, its gonna get to the point in a few years where there are barely any working carts.

Ianskie
11-12-2010, 05:13 PM
Do you guys know of anyone in the US that can do the battery swap?

RedOrlando101
09-04-2011, 11:20 PM
I made a quick video on how to do the battery swap yourself. This is the first video I do. Hope it helps. Click the link below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACTWtink5dY

jon713
09-04-2011, 11:38 PM
I made a quick video on how to do the battery swap yourself. This is the first video I do. Hope it helps. Click the link below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACTWtink5dY
video was taken down, too long :(

RedOrlando101
09-05-2011, 09:06 PM
I am working on it. I have the first of four videos uploaded. Thanks for looking. Hope you enjoy.
The first video is below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FW7OLs3krwc

RedOrlando101
09-06-2011, 10:13 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FW7OLs3krwc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMLf0fUoAzs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12veX_zYH08&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8UF6OpIVEE

Upload complete. Hope it helps. Be gentle...this is my first video tutorial I do.

mota11
12-29-2011, 04:07 PM
I have a SF III and 2nd impact hispanic working with the auxiliar second battery (I have pictures and video), I bought it one year ago approximately and it has the second battery solder yet, I dont know how many time is working with both batteries, but this still working. I have another cps3 system with SF III 3rd impact and come with the original case and the battery has never been changed, I has been thinking replace the battery of the SF III 3rd but I guess solder the second battery and leave working like the another system with 2 batteries. I dont know very much of arcade system or pcbs I'm novice. Thanks in advance for the help and the video tutorial of RedOrlando101, sorry my poor english I'm from Mexico.

mota11
12-29-2011, 05:39 PM
The pictures
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/340/29122011018.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/29122011018.jpg/)

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/1565/29122011022.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/97/29122011022.jpg/)

Green Beret
02-04-2016, 02:55 PM
I changed all of mine last year via power-on method. The only one that died was my third strike two weeks later. So it seems the method doesn't really matter though the power-on method is easier for sure.
Is there any clue to this day why a cart may die 2 weeks later of a battery swap?

Scott
02-04-2016, 02:58 PM
Is there any clue to this day why a cart may die 2 weeks later of a battery swap?

Could be a cold solder joint somewhere. That's all I can think of. I used to have a 3rd Strike cart that was working for a few days, then it just died for no apparent reason. I checked the battery and it was still showing 3.6V. However, it was modded with a battery holder. I guess its possible the battery came loose.

Green Beret
02-04-2016, 06:12 PM
Could be a cold solder joint somewhere. That's all I can think of. I used to have a 3rd Strike cart that was working for a few days, then it just died for no apparent reason. I checked the battery and it was still showing 3.6V. However, it was modded with a battery holder. I guess its possible the battery came loose.
Thanks for the feedback. There are some incidents like yours while there aren't any with cps2 dying in a few days after the swap. Very very strange...

Maybe Darksoft could enlighten us. He may has swapped dozens by now...

Xian Xi
02-04-2016, 09:58 PM
Is there any clue to this day why a cart may die 2 weeks later of a battery swap?

Static or crappy battery or bad solder joint.

Tyranix95
02-04-2016, 10:02 PM
I saw that vid.

You looked like a doctor in surgery.

:lolz:


video was taken down, too long :(

Green Beret
02-05-2016, 01:10 AM
Static or crappy battery or bad solder joint.
Thank you Xian Xi. I know you can't be wrong